Gary Lewis

Got the video included in the Resources/Electrical. As for the list, that looks like a lot to do, but if you get to start driving it soon you'll obviously be getting close. And if there are things I have that you need, just let me know. I do like the original-look of the wagon wheels. And, they meet your size needs, so good find. And, while the overhead thingee isn't original, if your wife likes it and it helps her, then so much the better.

Sounds like a busy day. Happy cutting, heating, vacuuming! But with that build you will need to have practiced foot control. 😉

That’s a good cam. I ran it in the ‘82 Explorer’s 351W with a 2bbl. From a stop on dry concrete it would spin the right rear. Plenty of low-end torque.

Oops, I missed the bit about hot fuel. The factory system works with the Holley, but I’m not sure about using it with an Edelbrock, which doesn’t like more than 6 psi of fuel pressure. So I’m running a dead-head style regulator on Big Blue to ensure that the pressure is below 6. But, when I pull the engine to seal up the leaks I’m going to replace the hot-fuel system with a return-style regulator and remove the factory hot-fuel system. That will return some fuel to keep it cool and will keep the pressure down - all in one device. As for rubber lines, yes they work. I’m running the newer ethanol-resistant hose in Big Blue’s fuel system with no problem. But I’m thinking of shielding the lines from heat with a sleeve made for that purpose. That’s because the black hose will absorb more heat from the engine than shiny steel line will. However, it also insulated to some extent, although I don’t know how much. So, I’ll use the sleeve for insurance.

I have the big brother to the 1901, the 750 CFM Street Demon, on Dad’s engine. I haven’t installed the engine in the truck yet so don’t have real-world experience with the carb. (In fact, I’m going EFI on the engine, which is one reason I can speak to the complexity of EFI.) But Tim Meyer ran the engine with that carb on the dyno, and then swapped to a 750 CFM Holley for testing. He said that the Holley put out slightly more power at WOT, but he was pleased with the Street Demon and thought it might have had more part-throttle power and better economy. Since I don’t run WOT very often I’m not worried about a slight loss in power, and I like the design of the Street Demon. Speaking of design, in theory there aren’t huge problems with over-carbing an engine if you use a carb with a vacuum or velocity-operated secondary. Those secondaries shouldn’t open until the engine needs the extra flow, and even then should do so smoothly. Yes, a larger carb usually has large primaries so you lose some part-throttle response, but the Street Demon’s primaries are very small so that isn’t an issue. However, if you do go with a large carb then I would recommend a carb that has easily-adjustable secondary opening points. That eliminates the Carter AFB/Edelbrock Performer carbs as changing the opening point requires full disassembly of the carb and welding weight to or grinding weight off of an arm. Instead, in the Edelbrock line go with the Thunder series, which has an easily-adjustable secondary opening. But, the Street Demon also has that feature. 👍

You had a good day! 👍 I think the fuel gauge will work well now, without the ICVR upgrade, but thats a good upgrade when you get to it. On the blower motor resistor pack video, that’s a great find. Mind if I put a link to it in the references? So, overall what do you have left to do before you can leave on vacation?

Excellent!

Be careful what you offer. You may find yourself in business. 😉 I suspect that CA vehicles are in far better shape than most places due to the lack of salt on the roads as well as the lack of extreme heat in most of the state. And, I’ve assumed that with the emissions testing requirements and the difficulty in meeting them, the price of the trucks is low. So you may find a lot of customers. Maybe you should post some finds in the ebay & Craigslist Finds section?

I cut and paste all the time, so not being able to isn’t normal. And, I see the sig - thanks. A dual-plane intake has runners that are on two different planes, and that is done to equalize the length of the runner so each cylinder’s runners are approximately the same length. And those runners tend to be longer and smaller, so that is good for low-end torque. A single-plane intake just gets from the carb to the valve in the fastest way possible, and usually doesn’t worry about balancing lengths. So they tend to be for higher RPM and give up the low-end torque. As for changing manifolds and carb, do you have emissions inspections? If so, won’t the changes cause problems? As for EFI, it does help make an engine run better in all conditions, but then there’s the question of emissions testing again. And, EFI isn’t simple.

Edward - Is that to me? My 750 CFM Eddy is working great. No problems with it at all. But that's on a non-stock 460. What engine do you have? (Hint: If you'd put that info in your signature we wouldn't have to ask.) A 600 to 650 CFM carb is a better choice for a 351, if that's what you have.

Brandon - You are telling the Reader's Digest version. The one I've heard is much longer and involves pistons and an Air-Valve Secondary carb. (Bill will 'splain that presently.) But, Jim has, or will have 750 CFM one of those for sale soon. Anyway, we are signed on for the journey.

Good plan, Stan.

I remember the discussion. And for what I'm doing the dovetail isn't a problem as it only lowers the rear of the vehicle a very few inches.

I have to bring this up again as I have to get to the bottom of the cut wires. On the web page "component testing" page 101 has the pin out of the plug for the blower switch. The wire colors and plug shape do match a plug/colors I have on the truck. Now page 100 has a picture of a plugs wire pin out that looks like has the right colors of the cut wires I started this thread for but I do not know where this plug is (cut off?) and the big one - where dose it plug in to? The picture does not say where it might be so I am at a loss! Please help Dave ---- Dave - The connector on Page 100 is the one that goes into the A/C Heat Function Selector Switch, meaning the one with the horizontal lever next to the fan switch. Here's the drawing from Page 100 showing the circuits: 181; 182; & 348. And here's Page 83 showing that switch and the same circuits.

Yep - All three gauges is almost for certain the IVR/ICVR. The how-to for replacement is here: Electrical/ICVR.

Yipes!!!! No wonder.

Big Red? Big BAD Red?

Brandon? BRANDON? You exist? Borrow my trailer? When you have a nice one with new lights, wires, and bearings? With only 2k miles on them? Anyway, send me a pic of the tool box, but I'm knee-deep in projects, so it may be a while before I can get to it. Thanks!

Guys - Bill and I've talked about this in the background, so I'm not stepping on his toes. But I've been looking at commercial places to build the transmission and contacted Midwest Transmission, which is where I got all the parts for the ZF5 build. They have three levels of build, and I'd like your thoughts on which one to go with. All three have 3 year/100K miles of warranty. 1: $2178 This level includes all of the upgrades that Baumann and I documented in my E4OD Upgrades project whiteboard. 2: $2683 Road RipperTM 1000: Towing up to an extra 4,000 lbs (two tons). Engines with added horsepower of up to 100. Hot rods or muscle cars with street tires. 3: $3127 Road RipperTM 2000: Towing 4,000-10,000 lbs. on a fifth wheel (trailer). Engines with added horsepower of 100 to 225. Diesel engines that have been chipped for more power. Street racers This beefed-up transmission really meets the mark of hard-working vehicles that need way more than what the factory offers. We start by really increasing the pressure in the transmission. This gives firmer application for all of the high-energy clutches and bands we install, like red, blue or even Raybestos® Z-PakTM clutches and Pro SeriesTM bands (depending on what the vehicle will be used for). Then we address the servos and accumulators to match up with the shifts you like. Adding to durability, we replace all rollers and sprags with the maximum-level available element. We address the converter to handle the higher load and improve its durability and efficiency. This is a very tough, hard-working unit. Some of the specifics: • Complete valve body and separator plate modifications for durability and improvement of shifts. • Increase base line pressure which gives you better linear line pressure during shifts. • Improve throttle pressure circuit for a faster and more responsive line pressure boost. • Resized servo and levers for maximum holding of any bands. • Use of high-energy clutches and Pro SeriesTM bands. • Increase of clutch packs by as much as 30 percent for greater holding power. • Improves the lube circuit which feeds all of the bushings, washers and geartrain in the transmission to keep them lubricated. • All sprags and rollers are replaced with the best available for increased capacity. • Only the highest-flow pumps available are used. • We furnace-braze converters and add new bearings throughout for durability.

EAN 6052-A: But, I don't know what to make of the numbers on that light.

I'm in awe. I don't have the vision to even imagine what things will look like. But, you make it happen.

Looks like "6C3? 13405-AA" The 13405-AA is proper, but the 6 is strange. Might it be a "G"? If so, that would be the 2000 decade, which odd. Hmmmm.

I think if it was the rear floor to rear panel I think I may have checked it out as I would have been sitting on a roll around stool. Doing the welding from the under side I was on the creeper and had already been up & down off it a whole bunch just measuring, cutting and clamping the parts. Call it lazy not to look into why the bad welds. Dave ---- I hate welding upside down - which is why I built a rotisserie. But, as it turns out, I didn’t do the work so loaned it to my paint & body man, John. As for what I did to my huck today, I got the transfer case out. And created a big mess. I’ve pulled the t-case off of many auto trannies and never had a problem. But ATF went everywhere when I pulled this one off the E4OD. 🙈 Yes, I hadn’t drained it. So I pulled some bolts out of the pan in order to drain it, and immediately had a leak. Now it is sitting there dribbling into the oil drain. Maybe tomorrow I can get the pan off.

Bill - I'm not sure what you are suggesting on the indicator. Make a new back for the C6 or the E4OD one? Anyway, the AOD one moves about 1 1/4” from Park to 1st, and I assume the C6 one does as well, while the E4OD one moves about 1 1/2”. So, I may have a problem using the C6 one as the overall travel will probably make it hard to calibrate both ends of the scale. On the relays, I thought I was still going to have a "later style flat relay" as a starter solenoid on the right fender to which the main feeds connect. I got that from your post here. What am I missing? And, do you have a pic of one of those "later style flat relays"?

Good luck on your drive. Here's a drawing I made to show what we are talking about. Think of it as a side view of the oil pan. You can see the waves as the oil level in the pan. And the red "Screen" is the part we are talking about. It is the bottom of the oil pickup, and sits right at the bottom of the oil pan so it can suck up the oil even if the oil level is low. But, if the screen gets clogged then the pump can't pull as much oil through it as it wants, and the resulting oil pressure goes down. And, since the screen is right down close to the bottom of the oil pan if someone has let the inside of the engine get sludged up, then when you put new oil in the sludge can get dislodged and plug the screen. You can see the oil fill tube on the left, and it just goes into the oil well away from the oil pickup and screen. You can blow all the air in there that you want, but it won't do anything to the gunk on the screen. However, some have said they cleaned things up by running a quart of ATF, meaning automatic transmission fluid, or maybe even kerosine, in an oil change with 5 quarts of good oil. And, if it was my truck I might try that instead of dropping the pan, since that is a big job. I would change oil and add the ATF, and drive the truck 1000 kilometers, and then change again with another quart of ATF with 5 quarts of oil. The ATF has extra detergent, and it helps clean things. But, if the inside of the engine is really, really dirty then you might completely clog the screen, so you want to watch the oil pressure gauges, meaning both the factory one and the new mechanical one, very closely.