Gary Lewis

Bill - I missed your comment. Yes, the E4OD that I have from the '90 has a rod-style linkage so will work with the Bullnose shifter. And, I remembered to scope out the relay boxes that I have. As shown below, I have the boxes: A 4-place box, shown at the top with ???, but I don't know the origin. It has places for 3 Bosch-style relays, and one high-current relay (F80B-14B192-AA) given its blade sizes. I'm thinking this might be a good box for both the headlight relays and the fan relays - assuming I go with electric fans. An 89/90 Taurus/Sable, shown on the left. It is too big for just the headlights and fans. A mid-90's F150, with an attached external box. The main box has places for 3 small relays and 3 Bosch relays. The smaller box has places for 6 smaller relays, although only 4 are wired, and 1 Bosch. The 1995 F450 that Jim parted out, and it has places for 5 Bosch relays. So, I think I may go with the 4-place box and plan to use it for both the headlights and the fan.

Ok, apparently you have all the compression you need. So, dropping a bit via the combustion chambers isn’t a problem. Got it. 😬

Don’t realize how much is showing beyond the gasket. And it isn’t even round! Now I understand. But how much does that drop the CR? Can you get it back when you zero-deck the block?

Your adapter idea is better than mine. I envisioned a flat plate somehow held to the head. But that would have sucked through both ports and the plug hole. Yours will be much more effective. 👍 It was tough getting into the Windsor heads w/o hitting a seat, and I’m sure the 460 heads are even worse given how far you have to reach. Perhaps you may have to have a machine shop put a 5-angle job an the valves and seats when done? But what are you going to do on the chambers? There’s not much I can see beyond smoothing. Anyway, the thermactor bumps being gone is going to make a huge difference. Or, maybe I should say it did on the Windsor heads.

I see the sig. perhaps it is your browser. I’ve found that Chrome doesn’t always show it, but Edge and IE seem to.

Glad the pad made it and is a good match. Sorry about the box, though. I thought I had it packed tightly enough that they wouldn’t hurt it. 😩 Yes, it is hard to reach in deeply w/o touching a seat. Longer burrs are a big help - if you don’t bend one. At that point things get wild. Anyway, doing the vacuum adapter should be a big help. I’m curious what it’ll look like and how well it works.

Interesting! Hadn’t thought about there being different levers. But as my E4 is from an F250 it probably has the correct lever. Still, that’s something to consider. Thanks, Ken.

Jonathan is right - don’t trust the factory gauge. And the oil pressure sender should be very near the oil filter., but above it if I remember correctly. And the wire to it should be white/red.

Yep, I kinda thought you forgot the gas. Don't ask why I know. Aren't you glad you didn't start the rear floor welding. There'll be days like this. And, in this case, my daddy said.

Here's a pic from the Salvaging Rosewood how-to. Comparing to yours, I'd say someone cut the black part with the knob holes out.

No need to apologize for asking for clarification. The bearings would be the main, rod, and cam bearings. Loose or worn out bearings can cause the oil pressure to go low, and sometimes it gets worse/lower under load. The screen is in the oil pump pickup, that sets in the bottom of the oil pan. I've highlighted it in the illustration below. If it gets clogged, like with gunk, it will reduce the flow of oil into the pump. And, as the engine spins faster and more oil should flow, at some point the flow into the pump won't be enough and the pressure will drop.

I agree it would be a shame to lose the aesthetics. So I'm hoping the C6 one will work. Plus, it is the easiest one to use. As for adjusting, I've read those directions before, but in the end wound up placing it in Park on the column and the tranny, and adjusting the linkage to go together. Then I adjusted the indicator and all was good. Anyway, thanks.

I think I agree that the C6 indicator is the best bet, unless Bill tells me how to use the E4 OD one. I checked the overall travel and the AOD one moves about 1 1/4” from Park to 1st, and the E4OD one about 1 1/2”. So there may be a problem making a non-E4 indicator display the right gear. But, that does bring up your question about where the notches are. I’ll check the huck tomorrow, but I think they are in the tranny. So, assuming that the Bullnose column has the same range of motion as the later columns, a Bullnose column coupled with a later indicator may work well.

I had no work on Friday and with the weekend I was able to spend a lot of time on the truck. I also don't think I will have work today so get more time with the truck bed. Painting would be nice but it has gotten colder here and no heat in the garage. Yesterday morning it was about 37* OAT, in my garage was 40*! It did get up to low 50*'s by after noon when the sun came out to heat the roof. I can get the under side of the bed floor cleaned & painted but the cab & bed side panels paint will have to wait. Besides I still have welding on the bed side panels and body work to the hood so have a lot to keep me working if not too cold in the garage. Dave ---- Dave & Jim - I’m expecting good reports today. 😉 As for me, not so much. Healthcare call sometime after 2:30 so I’m in and cleaned up. 😩 But, I did talk to NumberDummy this morning, and on his advice talked to Green Sales re XLS-style trim - to no avail. Then a bit of research on the transmission indicator, as reported elsewhere. But finally I got to the “huck” and drained the engine oil. I’ve seen black oil before, but maybe not quite that black. Then I took a look at the massive pan on the E4OD and, realizing my drain’s container is almost full, moved on to the t-case. The drain plug’s 3/8” recess is quasi-stripped, but I got it out and the BW1356 drained - and the fluid was reasonably red. Then, I removed the drive shafts, linkage, electrical connections, and the speedo connection and started pulling the t-case retaining bolts out. Judging by the RTV at the joint the t-case has been off, so it may be rebuilt. Anyway, at that point I was out of time, but hope to get the t-case off tomorrow.

Jim - Yes, the proper connectors are fine. But I've never seen the proper connectors used on one of these trucks. All - Jonathan's asked me about the transmission gear indicator, so I thought I'd discuss it a bit more here. I'd thought I could use an AOD indicator, and may well be able to do so. However, as shown below, the E4OD's positions are OD, 2, and 1, with 3 being achieved in the OD position with the OD turned off. However, the AOD has OD, D, 1. In other words, if I use this AOD indicator I'll have "D" showing when it is in 2nd gear. However, Jonathan pointed out that there were two different indicators for the AOD/AOT, and sure enough: E1TZ 7A110-A for 1981/82; and E3TZ 7A110-A for 1983/86. So, does someone have a pic of the "other" one? I don't know which one I have. Also, Bill had mentioned using the 90's indicator in Dad's truck. But they aren't nearly a bolt-in, as seen below. So, Bill, what did you have in mind?

I think I'll check with my neighbor to see if he wants me to take his mower in as well.

True. The 85/86 DIN bezel I have is 2 1/4" high x 7 1/8" wide. And the 80-84 bezel I have is 2 1/2" high x 4 3/16" wide. So, what does your opening measure? And, what numbers are embossed on the back? I have many of the numbers shown here: Interior/Instrument & Radio Bezels. Perhaps yours is shown there?

Core i5? That's what my Surface Pro will have, but with a 7300u. Anyway, how 'bout leaving a tab or more open? I don't know if that has anything to do with my experience vs yours, but right now I have 9 Bullnose tabs open here in the shop, surely that many on the Windows laptop, and several on the iPad. Again, I don't know if that is keeping me logged in, but something seems to be. Meanwhile I'll report the problem again, but add this info. And, ask if there's a parameter that can be tweaked on how long people stay logged in. Thanks!

I hadn’t thought about trailer lights on Dad’s truck. Or, maybe I should say I need to rethink trailer lighting. That’s because I’d planned to not have trailer wiring. But, as I look down the road, if it isn’t there then someone is going to install a trailer connector - and use insulation-displacement connectors. 😩 So, providing a proper trailer harness is probably wise. Maybe not with the full-blown trailering package, but at least so a light trailer can be connected. On the Bronco aux relay box, let me see what I have as I may have something. But thanks for the offer. I’ll keep it in mind.

Bizarre! What devices and browsers? I need specifics to report as they’ve not be able to recreate the problem. In fact, while I’ve seen the problem once or twice in the several months the forum has been up, I haven’t seen it recently. But, I’m probably a special case as I’m getting email notifications for all posts and frequently respond. So I probably stay logged on for extended periods. Bill - Do you keep a browser tab open to the forum? Or do you close your tabs? I’m just looking for anything that might give them the info they need. And sorry for the inconvenience. Please hand in there.

We have at least one person on here that is losing posts. I won’t say who it is, but he logs in and creates a post and then when he tries to post it it says he isn’t logged in and he loses his post. (Did I tell that correctly, Bill. 😈) Are any of the rest of you having similar problems?

I liked the original post: “sent a burrito”. 😎 I think I see the nick. Will it lap out? I did that on the Windsor heads I ported and it did lap out, but took some work. Anyway, I’m impressed by how clean you are keeping it since I know there has to be lots of metal dust flying around. Is the vacuum to the combustion chamber idea working?

We can delete it if you want. Or I can delete posts within the thread. But better yet, I can move threads. How about I move this to the General section and you start an intro thread?

After having killed three phones I came to the conclusion that protection from metal dust was essential. The Lifeproof case provides that because it is sealed in order to be waterproof. Plus, it has the necessary cushioning to protect the phone when I drop it. And, you can put a screen saver on before placing it in the case in order to protect the screen itself. But, as said, it also impedes the sound to the mike. And it adds considerable bulk. So I think I’ll buy an Otterbox the next round.

Someone cut that bezel to fit the aftermarket radio. Skill levels vary, and they might have done a clean job of it but there were no DIN radio bezels with that rosewood finish. 85/86 factory DIN bezels also had a bit of a raised frame around the opening. Right. The burlwood bezels came out in ‘85 and they were the first to have DIN-sized openings.