Gary Lewis

If you knew a guy who was going to the junkyard in the morning after work I'm sure he could grab you one with enough wire attached to patch it in 😉 ...and I'll bet it wouldn't even cost much. 👍👍👍👍👍👍 (That’s as close as I can get to reps.)

I haven’t really played with the 4GC, much less the Olds one. I jumped from a Will Carter Four Barrel to an Aluminum Four Barrel. But played extensively with Q-Jets as well. Never worked on a VV for that matter, although I have worked on many bike carbs with the same principle.

You are getting slow in your old age. 😈 So, what’s the most complex carb? The Q-Jet? Or the VV?

So the link Gary shows of the square pin out is a early setup and the flat style like I pictured is a later style? I did not know they did that, learned something new. I also don't remember what years the panels are from as I got then over a year ago. When you need something and you see it "pop up" you get it! The "how to" would be great if not for me for others that come across this. I wish I could just "release" the connectors from the plugs and do a swap but I have nothing. On the truck side someone cut the plug off and that is what started this post as I needed to know what the wires went to. I wonder if you can get that plug? I know you can get the fan & tank switch pig tails. Thanks Dave G. I showed you the connector from the 1981 EVTM as you have an ‘81 truck. 😉 I think the change was in 1985. I have that EVTM scanned, but not on the website yet. But here’s from the 1986 EVTM. Oh yes, you can look at Ford’s connector catalog here: http://dadistributing.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Motorcraft-Pigtails-connector-catalog-2014_electronic-1.pdf. Perhaps you can find that connector. The 4-cavity connectors start on Page 18.

I've created a new page on which I'm hoping we can document the ins and outs of the 460's fuel system. It is at Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems. But, I need your help! I thought I understood it fairly well, but have proven to myself that I don't. So I've embedded questions or statements in red that y'all need to help me with. And, I'm sure there are things stated in there that are wrong, so please find those as well. The main questions is: What trucks got the mechanical pump and which ones got the electric pump, and what determined that?

More impetus for a page on 460 fuel systems, inc hot-fuel handling. Hmmm, I have a few minutes.....

That makes a huge difference! Having lighting coming from another direction than your eyes are looking in will help find the rough edges and ridges.

I’ll await your findings. Or, are you saying you’ve already installed some of them? But, I obviously need to figure out why I don’t have backup lights. If it is the connection to the T19 that’ll be another reason to get the ZF5 installed. Oh, wait - did you find that harness? I’ve forgotten what all I have. 😬

I ran into serious problems trying to sell a truck with the newer windshield in it. Found a very accommodating state DOT guy that was willing to use a mirror to verify the VIN after we pulled the dash cover off. But most won’t.

Grumpin - On the fuel pressure for the hot fuel setup, I don’t know. The problem is that I have the orifice and return ahead of my regulator and gauge, so don’t have a way of measuring since the return bleeds off the excess pressure. As for those parts, 1483 is for the kickdown linkage to the C6. And 1493 is to relocate the throttle bracket - the one to the rear of the carb that bolts to the manifold. But if you aren’t changing the manifold out you don’t need it. The need arises because some of the manifolds reposition the carb. I know that is the case with most manifolds on Windsors and Clevelands, but it doesn’t seem to be the case on the 460. Edward - Most new fuel line you can buy today is ethanol resistant. I buy it in bulk at O’Reilly’s and it says that on the side of it. Rembrant - I’m not a fan of Holley carbs for several reasons, and one is just what you asked about - air/fuel ratio. My experience is that out of the box a Holley is very rich at part-throttle. But, it is possible that the one you have has already been re-jetted to a more reasonable part-throttle AFR. You could figure that out by tearing it down and comparing the jetting to the stock jetting, which would give you a chance to learn how a Holley goes together before installing it. Having said that, several very experienced people on here like Holleys, so don’t take my word for it. As for tuning, the easiest and most accurate way is with a wide-band meter. I have one that also has a vacuum readout, and that makes dialing in the enrichment circuit much easier since you can see the AFR change and the vacuum where it does by looking at one gauge.

Here are some ideas on the heat shield: https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shielded-Sleeve-Lines-Electrical-Wiring/dp/B015S65VJ0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486428652&sr=1-9&keywords=fuel+line+insulation https://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-204011-Sleeve-Roll/dp/B00FS6CIA6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486428652&sr=1-1&keywords=fuel+line+insulation https://www.amazon.com/010403-0-75-Aluminized-Sleeving-Sheath/dp/B000E267M4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486428652&sr=1-2&keywords=fuel+line+insulation And here’s the return-style fuel pressure regulator I’m going to use: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/regulators/carbureted_regulators/parts/12-803BP. Ford’s hot-fuel handling system is just an orifice that allows any vapor that builds up to escape back to the tank. Or, a very small amount of fuel. But it doesn’t regulate the pressure at all. This one will. Don’t miss that Jim is selling his Thunder Series carb. He has it on his 460 so it should bolt right on yours.

It is good to have local people you can rely on. Glad you found the wheels at a good price. As for the windshield, that is becoming a bigger and bigger problem. If you get the part number for the glass it might be a help to others.

Actually, Dad's engine has a very mild cam. Was just talking to Tim this afternoon about the intake, and he said I did it right by dialing down the cam to get the torque peak low in the range. In fact, he's had a guy return an engine recently wanting a cam like mine in it. Anyway, a hot 460 has got to be potent. You're gonna have fun, fun, FUN! And there's no T-bird to take away.

Where are the rep's on this site?

I gotta know how well those work. I almost took my new gate down today backing out as my backup lights are really, REALLY poor. Then I discovered they don't come on at all.

Jim - Your 650 is currently set up for a 460, right?

👍

Dave - I can check my wiring on Friday, but won’t be in the shop until then.

Go to the main forum, click Topics View, and you'll be here and it'll look like below, with each row being the latest reply. Or, are you looking for each topic/thread to be done last-first?

3: $3127 Road RipperTM 2000: Towing 4,000-10,000 lbs. on a fifth wheel (trailer). Engines with added horsepower of 100 to 225. Diesel engines that have been chipped for more power. Street racers This beefed-up transmission really meets the mark of hard-working vehicles that need way more than what the factory offers. We start by really increasing the pressure in the transmission. This gives firmer application for all of the high-energy clutches and bands we install, like red, blue or even Raybestos® Z-PakTM clutches and Pro SeriesTM bands (depending on what the vehicle will be used for). Then we address the servos and accumulators to match up with the shifts you like. Adding to durability, we replace all rollers and sprags with the maximum-level available element. We address the converter to handle the higher load and improve its durability and efficiency. This is a very tough, hard-working unit. Some of the specifics: • Complete valve body and separator plate modifications for durability and improvement of shifts. • Increase base line pressure which gives you better linear line pressure during shifts. • Improve throttle pressure circuit for a faster and more responsive line pressure boost. • Resized servo and levers for maximum holding of any bands. • Use of high-energy clutches and Pro SeriesTM bands. • Increase of clutch packs by as much as 30 percent for greater holding power. • Improves the lube circuit which feeds all of the bushings, washers and geartrain in the transmission to keep them lubricated. • All sprags and rollers are replaced with the best available for increased capacity. • Only the highest-flow pumps available are used. • We furnace-braze converters and add new bearings throughout for durability. As Tom & Ray used to say, I've apparently "stumped the chumps". No one has an opinion on the level of "build" I should request for the E4OD? Oh well, I'm still conversing with the people at Midwest about it, and discovered that they have a form they want filled out in order to determine what build they recommend. So, I've filled that out and sent it in. But, we sort of came to a potential stopping point when I asked for a pan with a drain plug. (It might be silly, but I just got this tranny's pan off w/o spilling more than a quart of the 16 quarts therein, and I don't want to do this again!) Turns out they've had problems drilling and tapping a pan for a plug, so they don't do it. But, they'll install a pan with a drain if I have one. So, a quick look on-line found that Trick Flow has a pan for about $200. Hmmm, that reminded me of the conversation Tim and I had Monday night about Trick Flow's failure to return my phone calls. Turns out his factory rep is retiring and hasn't been able to return my call. But, Tim did ask him if their Windsor-style Cleveland EFI intake will support my engine. They don't have flow numbers, but Tim is sure it will since I'm looking for low-RPM torque, not horsepower. In fact, with the long runners it should actually help the low-RPM power. Further, since Tim sells Trick Flow stuff, he offered to order the manifolds and the tranny pan and have it shipped to him. Then he'll pass the pan on to the rebuilder, who is also in MN. And, he'll mock up the manifolds on an engine he has and take some pics.

It sounds like you are truly in love. And, if she likes "your" truck, then all the better. I can't tell you how happy I was when Janey suggested we take Dad's truck to the East Coast to deliver furniture several years ago. My sister-in-law didn't think I should drive it home from Kansas, and my wife had confidence that I'd have it bullet-proof. As for the list, there's a certain corner that you turn when it feels like all else is downhill. It looks like you've reached it. Congrat's!

Wow! That is red! That would make a Bullnose RED - Red & Extremely Dangerous.

Would this work? http://dennis-carpenter.com/speedometer-drive-gear/p/E0TZ-17285-B/ David - I did a search for the one Jonathan thinks he needs, E1TZ-17285-A, and got the same one and thought yippee! And then I realized it is E0TZ-17285-B. 😩 A few months ago I wouldn’t have had a clue why you can do a “verbatim” search for “E1TZ-17285-A” and find E0TZ-17285-B. But now that I’ve been trying to boost the search results of this website I know - someone put E1TZ-17285-A in the meta data for the page, so that’s what Google thinks is on the page. 😡 I’m going to call Dennis Carpenter and complain because those part numbers don’t interchange. Further, they show the application as for all 1980-86 trucks. But there are 9 other gears for those trucks, so that is inaccurate.

Wow! My first suggestion. Done! That was easy. Next!

It has occurred to me that it would be nice for you to have a way to suggest to me changes to the forum or additions to the website. I may not be able to do them, but I will certainly consider whatever you suggest, so please let me know what changes or additions you'd like to see. Just reply in this topic/thread. And, since there are soooooo many things needing to be done, I've created a spreadsheet with which to keep track of them. I'm embedding it here so we all can see what I have so far: (Note to self: This file is called Forum And Website Upgrades and is in Ford Trucks/Website/Forum And Website Upgrades folder.)