Gary Lewis

I’m jealous! I have dreams of building an ‘80 or ‘81 Bronco, or maybe an ‘82 or later disguised as an ‘81. But it would be for tooling around in the high country so would be outfitted for that rather than cruising. By the way, you may have missed the notice, but threads in this Projects folder can be locked by the author so others can’t post. Like I’ve done on my EFI thread. That’s so you can either use it as a whiteboard, like I’m doing, or a blog where you post what you are doing but don’t want comments. So, if you decide you want to do that I can delete this post and move any others that come along. But, you’ll want to have some place to move them, like a real back & forth thread on the build. Your call. Anyway, cool project! 👍

Bill - So the ‘96 doesn’t have headlight relays? Ok, maybe there are relay spots in the PDC I can use. As for the ICVR, just go to Electrical/ICVR.

Ray - I’d like to minimize the wire splicing, so if the ‘96 PDC fits on the left fender and has all the relays and fuses I need, then that would be perfect. Obviously the Bullnose fusebox is just on the other side of the firewall, so if we tease the original fusible links out of the Bullnose harness we should be able to power them from fuses in the 96 PDC. But aren’t the relays for the PCM power, fuel pump, etc in the 96 PDC? Hmmmm, gotta go look at the diagrams you sent......

Bill - Thanks for the clarification. On the easy bit, if I’m driving the headlights with the truck’s original headlight switch plus some relays then there’s no worry about the DRL, with or without bypassing. On the PDC, that ‘96 version should work out well. I may even be able to move the power feeds to the cab to it, using real fuses and eliminate the fusible links. Hmmm, if that harness has the headlight wires like the 90’s harness does then they’ll be fed by relays in the PDC and all I have to do is to trigger them with the headlight switch and dimmer switch. 👍 As for the solenoid, I don’t know what the flat one looks like, but I think one of those and a megafuse should work nicely. That solenoid is surely set up to handle a PMGR starter.

You are implying that snow may not melt, that it may stay all winter. 🙈 As for the DRL, if you don’t need it then I’ll deal with it. But, if there’s nothing hooked to the light wiring does the computer throw codes? And I’m trying to get my head around what Bill was saying about needing the DRL bypass jumper. On the power feed, that power distribution box appears to sit on the left inner fender, but it gets its power from the starter solenoid, which sits on the right side. So, in ‘96 there was still the big starter solenoid? I was hoping to eliminate that solenoid and run a PMGR starter with a smaller relay. Hmmmm. Also, I was planning to have the main power distribution box on the right fender to house relays and fuses for things like the headlights, HVAC blower, etc. So, maybe I can fuse the power feeds going across the radiator from there. But, is suspect I’ll still need the power distribution box on the left fender as, I’m assuming, that’s where many of the relays are that the EEC-V computer will be running. Right? Or, maybe I can use the one you are sending to house the relays and just put a smaller one on the right side for the few fuses I need. Or, just use yours for the fuses and relays I need and use the tried and true starter solenoid and fusible links and minimize the work and change?

Yeah, “big block” and “economy” don’t belong in the same sentence. But when you program that gauge so that anything less than 10” of vacuum turns it red you’ll quickly get a good idea of what your right foot is doing to your gas mileage. And yes, warm and clean would be a big help on assembling an engine. But don’t low-ball the engine so much that you are disappointed in the end. The other one is still running, so maybe stretch the time a bit to get more money so you can “do it your way”?

$2500 for a ‘74 Flareside Highboy is good. 👍

I have the AEM Failsafe Wideband. It has boost/vacuum readout as well as AFR, and you can do either as the digital reoudout and the other as the “analog” dial. It works pretty well, but it hasn’t always responded to my programming, which is done with a laptop. For instance, you can change where the dial is supposed to be red, where it should be orange, and where green. But last I tried to change that it ignored me. But it works and seems accurate.

I'll post some pics tomorrow that will have you questioning taking the seat belts. Too bad, by then they'll be on the way.

I'll look tomorrow. Thanks.

LOL! I think the parts were in excellent shape. Don't forget, I'm parting out this huck, and it is awful. Ratatouille's whole family lived in that cab. And I've found a snake skin under the hood. And many spiders. No, your parts were CLEAN by comparison.

Pete - That’s just the point. The speedo doesn’t work and it appears it is the drive gear. So he’s just figuring out what gear he needs. Unfortunately it looks like one that is hard to find.

What am I looking for on the DRL cable? Any pics? And I agree with dual-booting - it isn’t worth it. I had a MacBook and needed Windows for my CAD program. But by the time I ran Windows and Mac OS there wasn’t much power left. I’m happy with my fairly-new Windows machine. And now I’m retiring this iPad for a Windows tablet.

You mean the little bit of rust?

When I talked to Tim on Monday evening he suggested I talk with Harold Miller of Trick Flow about my plans. I called him about 1 PM on Tuesday and left a message but haven't heard. So I called again this morning and was told he was gone at the moment but was to be back in 10 minutes and they would ensure he calls today if I'd leave another message. I did, and nada. I wish there was another company that has an intake that would do the job.

Ahhh! Yes, I saw the button, but didn't think about what it meant. Ok, then as long as you don't nick the seats you should be good to go when the porting is done.

I'm not sure if you are telling Ray or me to hang onto the DRL module, but I sure don't need it so he might as well. Which means I'll need the jumpers, either from you or from the salvage I'm sure to frequent. So, your Innovate goes directly to your PC? My AEM will apparently have to go through a A/D converter and then to the computer. Or, at least I think that is what Adam was saying. But I need to read up on the AEM so I understand. But, I'm glad the dongle works via the adapter as I'm going with a Microsoft Surface Pro, and it only has one USB port. My big laptop has two ports, but I'd rather use the tablet due to its smaller size.

You couldn't hurt that crossmember if you drove over it, so it is fine. And, painted! As for the totes, the parts will go back in them awaiting the appropriate time to go on Big Blue or Dad's truck. And, I found the bolts and nuts, as shown below. I'm sure the nuts are the right ones as they fit the mounts of the huck, and the bell housing bolts are the only 7/16-14's in there. Besides, they fit the two 400's I have and look like the same ones that are on the huck, only longer. But then I remembered how thick the flange is on the ZF. Anyway, I have everything ready to ship tomorrow. Can I ship to the address that is on the totes?

Welcome! Glad you found us! Looking forward to following your build.

I can't find that gear either. But I submitted a question to Midwest Transmissions to see if they have it. They don't show to even have parts for the 1345, but they do for the 1356. In fact they have an 8-toothed gear for the 1356, but it is brown.

You think she'd worry about a little brake fluid, or grease, or motor oil? Actually, I have 3 brand new totes we picked up in STL that were sitting on the shop floor when you were here. They haven't had anything but another tote in them, so she may like them. Good idea!

Ok, I'll match the motor mount and bell housing bolts with one I take out of the huck. But, on "motor mount" do you mean those to the block or those holding the mount to the perch? (I hate to be difficult, but that's just me. )

Good catch. With 3.00 I get 60.504.

Glad it is working. And thanks for the feedback. Keep us posted as the winter gets colder, please.

Well, Jim was only slightly premature in predicting at 7:00 AM that I "had mail". It came at 12:09 PM: And, it was perfectly packed. Nothing was damaged in any way. What a stand-up guy! Jim - Please remind me what I'm supposed to fish out of this jar of fasteners and send back to you? The seat belts are dry enough now (I washed them) to ship, so maybe I can get things boxed up and sent back to you tomorrow.