Gary Lewis

I have it and I’ll pick it up from there with him. Thanks.

Heating exhaust manifold bolts is what came to mind yesterday as I was trying to get the dip stick tube out of the 90’s pan. I could see that I was going to break something if I did it cold, and my MAPP gas torch wasn’t going to work in the engine compartment when all the lines and hoses are still in place. Besides, it really isn’t “surgical” enough to heat a bolt red hot without getting the surrounding part hot as well, and that’s not the best approach. So, the little tanks with a real welding torch would be ideal. 👍

I’ve often thought I need a set of those bottles, if nothing else then for brazing. But being able to weld small things would be a big advantage. After all, that’s the way I learned to weld so surely could do it again. And I have used old welding rod for oxy welding. I scraped off most of the flux first, but it worked well. If you have lots of it then give it a try.

Tomorrow I’ll go back through this thread and see it I can work out exactly what he wants. I dont need it, so I’ll be happy if someone can use it.

Put Your wants in so I don’t trash or break anything. 😉

Ohhh, I see. Ok, but on your own time. I’m in no hurry.

Ok, I'll check into it. Thanks.

I posted them in his thread on the roof: http://bullnose-enthusiasts.12971.n8.nabble.com/Roof-Cut-Section-tp2932p3457.html

Darin - Jim is wondering if the top on my truck would be good for you and he could give the complete cab on his to a guy that helped him. Mine is from a '90, which should be the same, but it has a few minor dings. Here are pics thereof. Please let me know.

Sorry, was asking him if he's ready for it. But I didn't really ask, so... And, by the way, this top isn't perfect. I'll get a pic..............

Bill - Yes, I can use the bracket and switch, but why not use an OD indicator from an AOD? I have one that will fit Dad's column perfectly. As for the OD switch, I have it and the bezel. The bezel for the switch itself is 2 1/2 x 2 1/2", and the area on the Bullnose instrument bezel where the fog light would have gone is 2 3/4" tall and 3" wide.

Ahhh!, my huck! My half-truck. Duh! Got it. Just having fun. Anyway, yes I'm happy to cut anything off the cab of the '90. Oz?

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE don't rush on my part!

I'm not cutting my 1/2 ton! That's dad's truck. Nor am I cutting my 3/4 ton '85. But, I'd be willing to cut the 3/4 ton '90. Which is probably what you meant. Right? Do we know that a '90 fits his? (I guess if a '95 roof does then a '90 does?)

Here's what Ford's catalog says: As for what I did to my huck, got the dash out w/o cutting wires - I think: But, on the front bumper, there was a teeny bit of cutting. This thing is made of 8" x 3/16" channel, and it is every bit of what I want to pick up.

Yipes! That would be a cool truck, but ...... Here's more info on those trucks.

Jim - Have you found out if the switch and delay module are good? I have them off the '90 if you want them.

Nice looking truck for $2,500. And he might take less. And I agree that it is probably a Free Wheel as it appears to have the bits shown below from the 1981 Brochure. But, what is the thing that appears to be where the clock should be?

Well, I'm not going to get the dip stick tube out very easily while the engine is in the huck (half-truck). So, I think I'll discontinue my efforts to do so until the engine is on the stand, and then it should be much easier. However, I did take a higher-def pic and then cropped it for your viewing pleasure. And I don't see any signs of threads. Also, I started the Engine/385 Series page with the oil pan info. Bill, you said: Here's what Ford's catalog says:

I agree with Pete. Check first with a mechanical gauge to see that you really have a problem. But, the symptoms of dropping pressure with increasing RPM are consistent with a clogged pickup screen and, to some extent, worn bearings. Better check things out, soon. Edit: I should have asked about the fuel level and water temp gauges. If they change at the same time the oil pressure gauge changes then the problem is the ICVR. But, that doesn't explain the dropping of pressure at higher RPM.

Oh. I guess I misunderstood. 🤔

Jim - I’ll try to determine what I have today. But does the push-in style just pull out? David - Thanks. But in this case it is Jim and Bill graciously helping a newbie. I have a hard time even typing “460” as it keeps coming out “400”. So they are kindly educating me.

My understanding is that the guy has been pulling his hair out. The government had been closing in on him and he knew it, so was desperately trying to give it away - but very few would take it. Right after Chris took his allotment the cops got him: http://www.cnn.com/2017/04/13/africa/efcc-recovers-funds-nigeria/index.html.

I’ll try to pull the dip stick tomorrow to answer the question. And if I can’t get the nut off without tearing something up, which I don’t want to do, at least I’ll get a good closeup of the hole. But that E7 number in a 1987 part, not 1977. So it is a retrofit back to 1983, and they apparently dropped the original E3 part number out of AllData, and maybe the catalog. I’ll take a look at the catalog tomorrow to see what I can find. As for your part truck’s dip stick tube, I think you did find it - and it is just like the one on my parts truck. No ferrule and no nut. So, were they pressed in? We shall see manana.

David - Ok, I understand. Thanks. By the way folks, someone voted for "Some other process you suggest", but without suggesting the process. So I'm going to have to discount that vote unless said person tells us what the process should be. And believe me, I'd be happy to entertain another process. I just haven't thought of one.