Gary Lewis

I agree that about any bolt will work for these applications from a tension standpoint. Just wondering if you know what works from a corrosion standpoint. Sounds like about anything does. Thanks.

I sent the following note to Scott, The Mad Porter, asking what I should do for mod's to the engine: And I got back this response: What are your thoughts?

Jim - What would you recommend for exhaust manifold bolts?

Dulled a bit, but not faded. Have never seen one of those. Probably one of these:

I paid $500 for Rusty several years ago and it couldn't be driven. Plus, it had a lot of problems. So, if this one is driveable, as suggested, and has no immediate problems then the price is cheap. And some people like "patina", which that truck has - everywhere.

Ron - I'm confused. You said "silver" and "Argent", but the picture looks like copper. What am I missing?

It wasn't obvious to me. Sure glad you guys pointed it out.

Brandon called to ask what I know about stainless fasteners, which isn't much. My Carroll Smith Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook doesn't appear to say much about them. But my Pocket Reference by Thomas J. Glover says that both 18-8 and 316 stainless have 75,000 lb/sq inch minimum tensile strength. On-line I found that the Bolt Depot says this: And Fastenal says this is their Technical Reference Guide on fasteners:

Guys - This year's Garagemahal Ford truck show is scheduled for September 15th, which is only 6 months away. (Remember, this is for all years of Ford trucks, not just Bullnose.) Given that I've reserved a block of 10 rooms at the Skiatook Osage Casino/Hotel, which is about 2 miles from the show, and that's by far the closest hotel. The rates I got are $119/night as opposed to the standard rate of $159/night. And the nights for this offer are the 14th and 15th of Sept, although you don't have to stay both nights. Note that there are only 33 rooms at this hotel, so we have 1/3 of the hotel blocked. And, right now there's plenty of availability to get more of the rooms if these fill up. But, since the 15th is also Skiatook's Pioneer Day celebration it is likely that the hotel will soon fill up. And, this offer is only good through the 15th of August, so to get the reduced rate you have to book by then. Also, all 5 of these rooms have two full-sized beds. That way if any of you want to share a room you can. But, if someone wants a king-sized bed I'll have to give up one of these to get it, so let me know, Here's the reservation info the hotel sent me:

I guess that was where my question was headed with the injectors....wasn't sure if there was enough air flow to be able to take advantage of a larger injector. As much of a headache as a carburated motor can be. I'm also learning the restrictiveness in making "easy" power with the factory EFI setup. Oh well, that's probably a good thing since this is supposed to be a driver. Yours is fuel injection, but it is an early-style system. It is called "speed density" because the computer only knows the throttle opening, air density, and air temp. With that info and the computer's tables it assumes it knows how much air is entering the engine. But, if you change things, like install a bigger cam, high-flow intake or exhaust, etc then the tables are no longer correct and the computer isn't happy. In roughly 1996 the trucks got a mass air flow system, and with the MAF sensor the computer actually knows how much air the engine is ingesting, so you can change the cam, intake, exhaust, etc and not have a problem.

That's the brand that Adam at Core Tuning recommended. Said he has a really expensive AFR system and he's tested several brands of gauges. AEM varies a lot in its reading, but the Innovate is accurate.

Yep. But larger injectors really aren't going to help a stock or even mild 302 since the 351W used the same injectors.

That certainly is rare. And, it is the right part number for 1982-86 F-Series and 1982-85 Broncos, as shown here: Interior/Instrument Panel Name Plates. Seller knows his/her stuff.

The dryer can have a fair bit of moisture in it, so can utilize the time with a vacuum to pull it off. The rest of the system should give up its moisture quickly. And now is the time to paint the engine if you are going to do it. O'Reilly's house brand brake cleaner does a good job of degreasing.

Type in D8OE vs E7TE on a Google search and you'll see a lot of opinions. But the main difference in the heads is combustion chamber size. The D8's have a 69cc chamber and the E7's have a 63cc chamber. Working from memory, which is very dangerous in my case, that will take your compression ratio from about 8:1 to 9:1. And that's a good thing. So, if you have the E7's I'd put them on after having the valves an guides/seals done. However, the GT40's and GT40P's are even better heads. So before you sink the money in machine work on a pair of heads see what you can find. Here is an article that may help: https://www.americanmuscle.com/cylinder-head-upgrades.html

Good! I'll probably make another one for my own use.

That's Brandon's video of his upside-down M. And I don't see anything strange. Was just posting it to help him.

Are you saying that it shifts worse with the new fluid and the old shifter than it did before?

I've read that port-matching the intake to the head is good. But there's not much else to do. And, with a speed-density system you really can't change much even when you do pull the heads. And the front and rear seals are a pain. I like to use RTV for them and not the included gaskets. Put a 1/4" bead of RTV on the walls at each end, and using cut-off bolts for guide pins lower the bottom plenum on evenly. Tighten down the proper bolts finger tight and let it sit over night for the RTV to cure. Then come back and torque the bolts down to spec. But the walls and the plenum have to be CLEAN or the RTV won't stick to them.

Adam at Core Tuning told me that my AEM meter isn't a good one. Don't remember what they recommend, but Bill has one of them. As for a dual setup, he said to put the sensor in one bank or the other, but not in the combined stream. One bank will run leaner and it will confuse things.

Here's Brandon's video. Y'all see what you think. And Bill's right, there's a keeper or clip part way up the oil pump drive that keeps it from coming out. Best to put it in from the bottom. As for the oil slinger, the illustration I have here (Engines/Windsor Series) does show a slinger as "6310". However, the catalog doesn't have a part number for one for a 351W.

You mean on your clips? Or the vacuum diagrams? Or both?

Edit your first post by clicking More/Edit Post in the upper right, and change the title.

Yes. But, which one of us is going to use it first?