Gary Lewis

Minor problem - that code says it is "exc-CA", as shown below. Or, was the "CAL" for Calibration?

Yep, me too. Don't know how to do it easily with a MIG, but would be a piece of cake with a stick welder.

What about running serious current through the bolt via an arc welder?

Ron is right. But, to answer the questions you asked, and a couple you didn't: Regulator: I ran an Eddy w/o a regulator and had no problems. But, it is a bit of the luck of the draw as the output of some mechanical fuel pumps can be well above the max of 6 psi that an Eddy likes. So, to be sure I'd get a regulator like this one, which is the one I'm running on Big Blue. Add on the gauge shown on that page and you'll be able to dial it right in. Relay: The stator voltage pulls a Bosch-style relay in just fine, and that is the way I like to run the choke. That way it doesn't heat up when the engine isn't running. Kickdown Linkage: There's no provision for the kickdown linkage of the C6 on the Eddy. But, Edelbrock makes a kit that bolts on and works well for that. Throttle Linkage: In my experience most aftermarket intakes reposition the carb to the rear enough that there is lots of slack in the throttle linkage. To fix that Edelbrock makes a kit, but I don't like it as it is flimsy. Instead, I cut the stock throttle cable bracket in half, bolt the bottom half to the manifold and move the top half around until I almost have the slack out. Then I clamp a piece of steel between the two parts, remove the bracket and weld things together.

As I've said, I'm hoping to put digital readouts in the clock openings and drive them with an Arduino. Towards that goal I've been looking for displays to use, but realized that I don't really know what the opening sizes are. So today I took a close look at a bezel and took a number of measurements - and discovered a few things. First, here's a pic of the bezel. Note that the outer edges of the left and right openings actually aren't vertical. But, the right opening's outer edge is tilted more than the left's edge. Second, the openings aren't as big as they could be. Both the outer openings could be opened up horizontally, and all three could be opened up vertically. And, here are the dimensions: Left: .685" high x 2.190/2.195" wide Center: .675" high x 2.772" wide Right: .685" high x 2.162/2.195" wide As for the max sizes, all three could be opened up to 1.060" vertically by taking the opening right out to the beads. And they could be opened up horizontally: Left: 2.510/2.515" Center: 2.933" Right: 2.470/2.505" Now I know what the sizes are that can be accommodated and I'll be looking for just the right displays. But if any of you have suggestions please let me know. I think my preference is to use fluorescent units to be period-correct, but a blue LED on a black background would be my second choice. Thoughts?

Well, so much for the MAPP gas idea. I had this lower plenum with a twisted off thermostat housing bolt, so thought, in light of the above discussion, that I'd prove that I could get it out easily. Here's the twisted-off bolt before my attempts: And, after a round of MAPP gas and Vise Grips well and truly applied the only difference was that the paint was gone. So, out came the welder and I welded the nut to the stump of the bolt. Lots of penetration and heat, and the nut glowed red for quite a while when I was done. And it looked like this: After it cooled and I'd flooded it with penetrating oil and coaxed it with lots of tapping, I gently started tapping on a wrench with my hand. Pretty soon I started getting movement and thought I was "there", only to learn that the stump was now 1 turn shorter. So I did it again, this time ensuring that the weld was as hot as I could make it to both get as much penetration as thermal shock on the threads. And, now I have two nuts with about 1 turn of the bolt in them: So, now there's only enough thread showing to fill a nut, and I have Loctite Red in there and will let it sit overnight before seeing if that will work.

I LIKE IT! But, at $500 from Amazon I think I'll use my MAPP gas torch.

Sounds like it is ready for an extended trip - in September.

Yes, but without the payment and high insurance! Amen, brother!

I really don't need it, but it you want rid of it then just bring it in Sept. I can put it in storage for the next person that needs one.

At some point I'd like to get pics of the different doors, including the later Flareside one, to add to the web page.

My review was done w/o the information that Bill O'Neal, of HiPo Parts, passed on to me about paints. So I'm going to redo my review to see if I can tell the difference in how the different paints fluoresce with differing light sources. But yours look good, so keep on truckin'. What are you going to use for gauge lighting? As for the doors, isn't it amazing how much better they sound and feel with new weatherstripping and window runs? Makes you think of a new car.

Interesting. Good find. I wonder if that's why Big Blue's slipped off the other day? The pedal caught initially, but just as I got out of the truck I heard a pop and the truck started rolling backward. Did you have any instances like that?

I would say little over an hour more work on the 2 fenders, edges & 1 small bondo spot, and I can get primer on them. I will not prim them till the tail gate and/or hood are ready for primer. No need to dirty the spray gun for 2 fenders that will not rust before primed. Dave ---- What did I do to my truck today? Drove it! Our daughter and grandtwins went to see the other grandparents so we thought we'd just get out of the house and go some place different. So my wife Googled "historic bridges of Oklahoma" and we set out to find a few of them. Turns out there are four within a few miles of our home. Here's Big Blue on one of larger bridges: And, here he is on a one-lane bridge: All in all, Big Blue did well.

But, now it is clean inside.

Gary - Got my shiny new fuel filter, hoping to replace it and the plugs/wires this weekend. (Last weekend was consumed by habitat for humanity type work) Random question on the fuel filter (to the larger hivemind as well!) - would you put any blue threadlocker or teflon tape equivalent on the threads? Don't want it working it's way off while the vehicle is in operation! Greg If this is the filter that screws into the carb then you could use some PTFE paste on the threads. But keep it at least one turn back of the leading edge of the threads so it can't get into the fuel system. However, it isn't necessary as you are dealing with tapered pipe threads that do a good job of both sealing and locking.

LOL! I haven't seen "good fits" either, but thought your wife might be different.

That works .... but I think the flare side / duel wheel should have a "B" at the end of the part number you have in the text. Or am I reading it wrong? So in short flare side & duel wheel use the same door & plastic box. Thanks Gary Dave ---- You are right, and I changed it to a "B".

I asked in another thread if the doors were the same between the styleside and the flareside. The one thing missing from the flareside bed I just bought is the fuel door, so I need to go scrounging for one of those now, and I was curious if they were all the same or not. Looks like not. Thanks Dave. Sorry to say if you need one to fit the flare side opening it has to be a flare side door & plastic box (for a better name) because the screw hole spacing as posted above are different between them. Now I was just thinking I wonder what the DRW trucks use for filler doors? I would guess being fiber glass fenders it would be the flare side doors but then again the fender are bolted to a style side bed so who knows? If I could figure out how to look up parts on the CD I might be able to tell. If you measure the bolts or yours before hitting the JY and find a DRW truck and measure it might be the way to go? Dave ---- See if today's new page helps with that: Exterior/Fuel Filler Doors.

They are at a nice price. But if those are Bullnose era Ford wheels, which were used on the 1980 & '81 F100's, F150's, and U150's, they are only 6" wide, not 8.5" as the seller says. At least according to Ford's master parts catalog and shown here: Driveline/Wheels. However, it is possible that they are later Ford wheels and are wider. I have a set of Ford wagonwheels (Type 5's) that are wider than the catalog says they should be and I assume they are from a later truck. I know that Ford used them at least through 1989 and by then they were available in 7" and 8" widths, as opposed to the 6" & 7" widths in the Bullnose era.

I got lost. I thought you replaced the rag joint with a Borgeson one. Doesn't it have the rag joint? What am I missing?

A good fit or a bad fit?

The phenolic spacer is the better approach as it won't transfer heat.

Wow! That's major progress.

So, what's the plan, Stan? Do you have the needed doors?