Gary Lewis

I was wondering about a lockout as well, but I'm thinking electrical is easier. Just put a relay in the circuit from the t-case.

Pics:

Yes, it worked for me this time, and said "Garbage is seen at the Craven Country Jamboree grounds on Aug. 14, one month after this year's music festival ended." Yuk!

I'll sell them for what I have in them plus shipping. They are really clean. Want more pics?

That's good advice. Thanks. And it takes less time for me.

That's exactly what Big Blue has. I don't know if it is original as Vernon had a lot of steering work done, so probably not.

I'm pretty confident it will, and when I get home from church tomorrow night I'm going to watch it. Should get home around 8:00 and the auction is over at 8:30, so will be interesting. There is at least one person with automatic bidding turned on, so the last few seconds could be wild. Bring it on!

Shades of an 8-page microanalysis! No, this doesn't belong buried in a build thread. It needs to be a stand-alone topic, like this one. So, let's get started..... First, I get lost in all the gearing issues, numbers, etc. So, if you'll provide me with the gear ratios I'd like to create a spreadsheet to help me/us get our heads around the possibilities. And, that will let me compare the 2nd gear ratios with those of Big Blue, which has a fairly easy start in 2nd when running light and the 460 may have comparable torque at really low R's to the diesel. Second, I don't like any of the combinations that would let you destroy things by placing it in 4lo. I don't want to build things that are easily destroyed, and that looks like a prime candidate for destruction. So I guess that w/o info on the gearing I'm knocking on Door #4. NP205's are said to be STOUT, albeit heavy. So that seems like the best option to make everything live w/the power you are planning for that engine to produce. But, that begs the question of gearing, so we've come back around the bush.....

Even better idea! Big Blackie is up to $15,001.00. And there's still 1 day and 8 hours left!

I think it has something to do with the law of Supply And Demand. There's very little supply and quite a bit of demand. Someday our beloved Bullnose trucks may be so blessed.

Just a few years ago I was asking all the questions and getting help from many of these folks. You'll be surprised how quickly you are a guru.

To me, while this forum is small and you don't get a lot of different people helping - unlike some other forums, having it coupled with a resource like the website more than makes up for the size.

I have this pair of OMC King Cobra valve covers for a carb'd 460 that I paid $125 for - I think. Really nice cast aluminum in great shape. But, I'm going EFI and that takes a completely different valve cover. So I'll be selling these - via Craigslist, ebay, this site, and/or the swap meet this fall. (I'm leaning to saving them for the swap meet just to have a good array of stuff there.) They'll clean up very nicely. However, I'm going to be powder coating with black wrinkle/crinkle soon, and it wouldn't take much to coat these as well and then sand the ribs back to aluminum. So, what say ye? Leave them the way they are or PC them? That'll require that I pull the labels as they won't stand up to the oven, but it won't be hard. Thoughts?

There's only one blue shown for '82 and another one for '85. So, you can find the SEM paint in Specifications/Body Codes/Interior Paint. But, as it says there, those colors have to be mixed at a store selling SEM, or by SEM itself and shipped to you.

Nice Bronco. Is it yours, or just one you found on ebay? And, welcome to the Bullnose Forum!

Maybe I'm missing something, but that just takes me to CTV's news site.

I know that Brandon mentioned his appreciation for both the customer support and the products of Totally Stainless. And I'd contacted them about goodies for the upcoming show and got a good response. But, until yesterday I hadn't perused their catalog. Wow! 152 pages, with lots of good stuff on each page. Here are a couple of the kits shown, which include our trucks: BODY KITS - Body kits include component kits for Battery Box, Starter Solenoid, & Relay, Bed Mount, Front Body Mount, Front Bumper(polished Carriage), Cowl Cover, Door Hinge, Door Jambs, Front & Inner Fender(does both), Gas Pedal, Grill, Hood Hinges, Hood Latch, Interior, Master Cylinder, Radiator Support, and Seat(for bench seats). Body Kits with Styleside Beds also include component kits for Bed Mounts, Tailgate, and Tail Lights. ENGINE KITS - Every engine kit includes component kits for the Distributor, Fuel Pump, Intake, Oil Pan, Thermostat, Timing Chain Housing, Valve Covers, and Water Pump. Over 132 pieces and available in 5 to 6 different bolt styles! And they have individual components available, including SAE and metric: Carriage bolts, in both standard, oval, and curved styles; plugs; studs; specialty square nuts; clamps; air cleaner nuts; studs; and even door striker bolts - although maybe not for ours yet. I'm not pushing this company, and certainly don't have stock in them. But they apparently have good products as well as good customer service. And with the very wide range of products they carry they may be just the resource some of us need.

Yes, those trim pieces. My truck came with a couple of them in a box. Wasn't sure if they were standard equipment or optional accessories. I think the truck could be ordered with them as I believe they show in the dealer's fact book, although I'll check later. However, I think accessories like that got shipped with the truck and installed by the dealer. So, it wouldn't surprise me if yours have never been installed.

You never know what someone has done before, so don't bet that they are Phillips. They could be cabinet/slotted or even hex-headed. But I'm sure you'll be prepared for anything.

These things? This is from Page 9 of the 1981 Accessories Catalog. What is interesting is that the accessories catalog plainly says they are for the F-series, amoung others, but there's no listing for them! Apparently by 1994 when my catalog was "printed" they'd run out of them and removed them from the catalog. But, judging from the van's part number being the same as that of the previous era's (D9UZ-A), I'll bet the pickup and Bronco's part number is D9TZ 18246-A.

OK, one more quick question then...how is the rubber boot attached to the tunnel cover? Phillips head screws? If I can get back there I might grab the stick out of this thing, and I might as well grab the boot if it's still intact and undamaged. This isn't the NP, but I don't find one for the NP and think they were done this way: And the AMK Products catalog says the 52743-S screw is:

I understand the A/C issue. I'm even contemplating having the A/C on Big Blue charged once to see if it'll hold as I want to take it to the Fordification show in MO in June. It's 230 miles round trip, and since Janey is going with me..... On the speedo, Big Blue's is about 5 mph slow across the board, which is hard to believe but seems to be the case. And that's dangerous as I have to keep reminding myself that I'm going faster than I think. So I do agree that showing faster is better than showing slower.

And Gary will set it aside with the stash for Darin. And, I'll watch for whatever Dave decides is the way to affix them to the truck. Darin - Does your truck have holes already to attach the bracket? If so, does it have nutserts in the holes? If so, what thread pitch? Dave - Why didn't your truck have the holes already drilled?

Thanks for the explanation. But, it sounds like the time to get an old camper is after the fest? Just get it out of the field?

Wow!!!! Congratulations!! Well done!