Gary Lewis

The problem is the way I have those pages set up. Wonky. You can actually click on Vacuum Systems itself. The first click gets you a drop-down with Vacuum Diagrams and Vacuum Reservoirs, but if you click Vacuum Systems itself again you'll go to the page in the link. Not intuitive to the casual observer. Vacuum is used on the C6 to give the tranny an idea of how much throttle you are giving the engine and, therefore, how quickly it needs to shift. Little throttle means the engine won't run away during the shift, but lots of throttle means that if the shift isn't quick the clutch coming in may pay the price. As for the HVAC system, the factory-installed systems with A/C use vacuum for everything but temp control. There are vacuum motors under the dash and one on the firewall that move the various doors to change from floor to defrost to panel, and to close the Recirculate door to only use inside air.

That's a really sharp truck, and if I was looking for one I'd jump at that price. You can't create a truck like that for twice the cost. As for the vacuum lines, all is explained here: Underhood/Vacuum Systems.

Jochen - A head gasket can leak, but I've never seen one leak to the outside. It is possible, but I've not seen it. However, what I suspect you have is a leak where the intake manifold fits to the head. If I remember correctly (your signature doesn't say), you have a Windsor V8, either the 302/5.0L or the 351W/5.8L. Those have "wet" intake manifolds, meaning that there's a coolant passage at the very front and very back that connects the heads to each other. Many of the intake manifolds are aluminum, and the interface of dissimilar metals in the presence of a liquid causes electrolysis if the anti-freeze/coolant isn't replaced routinely. The aluminum of the intake manifold is what gets stripped off, right around the opening to the head. Finally enough gets stripped off that the gasket starts to leak. And a leak at that interface can easily look like the head gasket itself is what is leaking. There are dyes that you can add to the cooling system to help find leaks. They fluoresce under black light and show up easily. However, sometimes with an intake manifold leak it it really hard to tell because the leak follows the gasket down to the head, wicks around the head gasket, and appears somewhere else. Since removing the intake manifold is one of the first steps to pulling a head, I'd be inclined to pull the intake manifold and inspect it. That is far easier than pulling a head. Once the intake is off I'll bet you see a lot of corrosion and pitting around the front and rear coolant ports. If so, I'll bet that's the problem.

The sound deadener works by adding mass to the panel, thereby lowering the frequency where it vibrates. But panels don't vibrate right on their edges where they are reinforced, so the best use of the material is the center part of a panel. As for which panels, the floor, inside of the outer door panels, roof, and back panel (on a pickup) are prime candidates.

Bill - The problem has now been fixed.

Can you tell the difference with the new brake lines? I've read that they make the pedal feel firmer. Did the goo do the trick on the windshield? As for the door lock actuator, aren't they so much fun to get in and out? And, what are you going to use for sound deadening?

Looks good! That headliner is different, and I think I like it. And, I see how you mounted the speakers. So, how does it sound?

I think those pics and dimensions are probably enough. Thanks.

Yes, a 3G swap does away with the external voltage regulator on the fender. But a starter swap to a PMGR starter doesn't really do away with the need for some kind of a relay. However, you certainly don't need something the size of the starter relay/solenoid you now have. Bill says the heavy duty Bosch style relays are enough to bring the starter-mounted relay in, and I'm going to go with way with my trucks. But, I haven't done so yet so don't have anything to show you. However, do you really need to get rid of yours? As for that wiring, what was missing when it was done was intelligence. The red/black wire has a feed and fuse holder for some new accessory, like a radio. Presumably the green/black wire had a tap on it as well.

I just checked it...no noise...none whatsoever!...lol. Thanks Gary. I'm going to bin it. Ok, I have another electrical question coming shortly...just need to grab a picture... LOL!!! I forgot.

Bill - That's my understanding as well. Which is why my plan is still to put the sensor in the factory cross-over. And, the rest of that is why I felt like going to anything short of MAF/SEFI wasn't worth it.

Check your radio before placing it in the bin. That's a capacitor/condenser that removed electrical noise from the electrical system. Oddly enough, only the V8 powered vehicles got them, but they filtered out noise that showed up in the radio as a background buzz, particularly on AM signals. If you don't have any noise in the radio then toss it.

That's exactly where I've been planning to put my wide-band sensor - the factory position where the two sides come together. And then put the factory sensors upstream of that. But either Adam or Ben suggested that it go in one stream or the other as one of them will be leaner than the other and you don't get a true reading at the crossover. But, why wouldn't you get a good average reading there? Aren't you really shooting for an average that is close to 14.4 to then let the computer "trim" it to perfection?

In looking at the documentation on those two AFR meters I find this on calibration: Innovate: Calibration Schedule - Normally aspirated (daily driver) - Calibrate before installation of new sensor - Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use - Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, whichever comes first Dynocom: The following are some timing guidelines for when to perform a calibration procedure: - The first time before a new sensor is used. - For every 3000 ft. change in altitude. - For race/off road engines, every tuning session. - For wild street performance engines once every week of use. - For mild street performance engines every month of use. It is worrying that the Dynocom is to be calibrated 4 times as often, meaning every 3 months vs annually for the Innovate. On top of that, the Innovate's analog output that will go to the data logger says that 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. But the Dynocom says an output of 0 VDC means 9.00:1 AFR (gasoline) and an output of 5 VDC means 16.00:1 AFR. On top of that, the Innovate is ~$220 and the Dynocom is ~$355. So....... Thoughts?

Vinny - Is that intermittent? He's had it happen and then go away. And, what causes it? Just a bad ECA?

Instrument illumination is here: Electrical/1981 EVTM/Instrument Illumination. And radio wiring is here: Electrical/1981 EVTM/Radios. As you'll see, the instrument illumination fuse (#17) is not the same one as interior lights. So check to see if the guy also pulled that fuse.

So I've run into another hiccup with my engine assembly. This thing is going to be the death of me...lol. They've had the engine for over 2 months now! Have you guys ever heard of a new cam being bent? Or, I guess I should say not being 100% straight? My new Comp cam had too much run out and was actually tight to turn in the block. I've installed camshafts in VW diesels before, but they were short stubby things that were quite heavy...not long and skinny like a V8 camshaft. Maybe it was dropped in shipping somewhere along the way before it got to me. So I am going to switch to the next size up Comp XE cam. I was going with the XE250H (31-230-3) which was recommended by a lot of people, but unfortunately was not available quickly from the supplier the engine shop uses. We looked at a few options, and all of the same profile cams in the 351/302HO firing order, and the one that we could get the quickest that fit the application the best was the Comp Cams XE256H (31-234-3). The engine shop's preference was to use Lunati, but their supplier didn't have what we needed either. Comparing to the XE250H, the XE256H will bump my peak HP up to the 300 range, and I will lose a little bit of low end torque. I am OK with that. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=798&sb=2 I know the argument is always there that the torque is needed for a heavy truck, but all said and done, my truck at 3400 lbs stock wouldn't be much heavier than a fully loaded Mustang GT hatchback. In any case, the little 302 should be assembled by mid next week, and then break-in and dyno tuning the week after. Fingers crossed. I haven't heard of a bent cam, but that would certainly be a problem. There's basically zero room for run out, and too much of it would cause a serious bind. Glad they found it. With no A/C and a manual tranny you should be fine with the "bigger" cam - and especially since you are not planning to use the truck for towing. And, as you say, the truck isn't heavy so it should work fine.

Ray - We have a lot of great guys on here, so it is easy to get interested in what we have going on, which is all things Bullnose. But talking about which engine is best is like the old debate about the video tape format war between Sony's Betamax and Video Home Format (VHS). Wikipedia says: All the companies had good engines, although in different ways. But Chevy sold more vehicles, probably due to having a slightly lower cost, and the engines became more plentiful - and more popular. Aftermarket support quickly followed and, like VHS, the SBC became ubiquitous. So now you see "the belly button combo" of a 350/350 in many vehicles, but just like VHS, that doesn't mean it is better.

Another reason I like the factory system is that it is true port injection. But many of the aftermarket systems are just replacements for a carb and you wind up having the traditional imbalance between cylinders due to distribution problems in the intake manifold. Anyway, Core Tuning got back with me today and said "The wideband I would recommend is the Dynocom DC AFM. My response was "I'm confused about the AFR meter. I thought you guys liked Innovate, and I was assuming you'd suggest something like the MTX-L Plus. What's better about the Dynocom?" Anyone know anything about them?

The "old man" of the forum! (Said by someone who is 1.5% younger.) Ask Bill what color the coolant leaks were on his Corsa. And about the injection system on the Jetfire.

I am afraid that a single small barb might not be enough for the return. Having said that, I have the C2 pump from the 1995 F450 setting on my work table, and I could measure the ID of the two barbs on it to find out how much area they provide. Forgetting boundary flow, which makes a small diameter hole flow less that it would appear it should, we could at least get a number that might indicate the area needed to make it work reliably. I'm not going to be in the shop today, but hopefully will be tomorrow and will let you know what I find.

Amen, brother! Couldn't have said it that well, so thanks David. My son likes vehicles, but more driving/using them than working on them. And my daughter views vehicles as necessary to get from Point A to Point B. Who knows what their kids will be interested in doing with regard to maintaining vehicles. But I've come to realize that the chances of any of them finding a guru with carbs is pretty small, and the chances of one of the being that guru is slim to none. So I came to the conclusion that going EFI was the best approach for them. But, with the research I've done I determined that the churn in aftermarket EFI systems is such that today's system is outdated tomorrow, so the odds of finding parts or a guru on a several-years-ago model when needed also seemed slim. That turned me to Ford's EFI systems. However, the earlier ones, like the EEC-IV's, didn't have OBD-II ports and were speed-density and bank-fire systems. But, 1996 was the year that OBD-II was required, and with the help of guys on here I now have factory 1996 EFI systems for both Big Blue and Dad's truck. That means that when problems arise a tech somewhere can plug his standard scanner in and be told what the problem is, and standard Ford parts can be used to fix it. And, on Dad's truck there's an added advantage - the EEC can also control the E4OD tranny. Otherwise I'd have to buy a standalone tranny controller in addition to the EFI system. The downside to the EEC-V system is that you have to tune it somewhat as while it can learn it needs to be fairly close in the first place. Hence the need for Core Tuning and their s/w and h/w.

What about someone who owns a Chevy and a Dodge??? Ooops, I did miss this, David. Sorry about the 300/manual tranny not being rare statement. As for a Chevy guy restoring a Ford, I'm not sure if you are talking about me or John Keeline. I grew up a Chevy guy, but "saw the light" a few years ago. But I haven't been able to convert John - yet. However, he's doing an excellent job on the '72 F150 - that should be done for you to see at the show. Wow! It looks good! So, I guess a Chevy guy can restore a Ford. But, just owning a Chevy and a Dodge doesn't condemn a guy, does it? I have my priorities right - lots of Ford trucks have taken precedent to the "off brands". So, am I forgiven?

LOL! I took no offense, whatsoever. But, I truly do understand. TRULY! Been there, are that.

Peeling the onion's layers? Yes, while peeling you might as well get the layers you can reach. As for EFI'ing Big Blue, I've been trying to talk with the guys at Core Tuning for some time, and finally talked to both Ben and Adam yesterday. Adam and I discussed which cable/connection arrangement to use, but at the end of the conversation where we were talking about this the connection got really poor. I believe he said: Quarterhorse: This arrangement connects to the programming port on the back of the EEC box. It allows for instantaneous changes, but has a battery that needs charged periodically. Or, you can burn an EPROM with the parameters when you finally get it working. Mongoose: This approach connects to the OBD-II port and lets you data-log as well as program. But programming takes maybe 45 seconds as you are writing the whole thing into the computer instead of just the single parameter you want to change. Bill - You have the Mongoose - right? I think that's the way for me to go, but just wanted to check. Also, both Adam and Ben talked to me about a wide-band air/fuel monitor. (The O2 sensors on the factory EFI systems are narrow band units and really only tell the computer if the AFR is below or above the goal of 14.7:1. So it is hard, if not impossible, to use them to accurately tune a system. Enter the wide-band units that actually tell you the precise AFR.) I have an AEM unit, but they don't think AEM's are very accurate as they usually read rich. But I think mine reads quite lean as on David's 300 six we saw an AFR of 17:1 and the engine was running fine. So, I want to find out what they recommend, which I think is Innovate. However, the AEM and Innovate units appear to communicate in different methods, so that will change the interface I need for data logging. Anyway, there is a bit more to find out before I buy, but I am making progress.