Gary Lewis

Anna - Thanks. We will get help from the others to ID the part so we can find the part number. Perhaps they are still available as NOS. Or, maybe someone has one. I've created a new page (Interior/Interior Trim) that has the illustrations for things in the interior of these trucks and soon will have the part numbers. But I've included the illustration here that I think shows that piece for two reasons. First, it makes it easier for everyone to see rather than having to follow a link. Second, because it gives me an opportunity to play with the code to show it as big as possible on everyone's screen. The original code looked like this but with arrows on each end: "nabble_img src="Roof_and_Garnish_Moulding_Illustration.jpg" border="0"/" And I added " width="100%"" to make it: "nabble_img src="Roof_and_Garnish_Moulding_Illustration.jpg" border="0" width="100%"/" So, Anna, if you were to edit your post and put " width="100%"" to your picture's code then we could see it much more easily. And, if you think you know which of the pieces it is below, then let me know and I'll get the whole of the part number and maybe we can find it.

I assume that "nre" means "new". Right? Not a bad price for new tires and those wheels - and I love the wheels.

Thanks very much Gary. I did check the voltage at the TPS and the reference voltage was just below 5 with an idle output voltage of about .9 moving up to 4.75 at WOT. The rest is still baffling me. As said, I would concentrate on getting spark to the plugs. If you have spark at the coil but not to any plug (you need to check all of them) then I would say there's one of two things going on. First, verify that the distributor's rotor is turning when the engine cranks. Perhaps the gear stripped or the roll pin sheared or the timing chain is slipping by a worn-out sprocket. Second, make sure the rotor is good. If the rotor has a hole in it then it is possible for the spark to come in on the spring in the center and right through the rotor to the distributor's shaft, which is ground. So swap out the rotor to see if something changes. And then try a different cap.

I've realized that the only interior illustrations and part number info that I have is on page Interior/Rear Corner Trim. It has the Regular Cab trim illustration as well as some part number info. However, it doesn't have any info for SuperCabs, Crew Cabs, or Broncos. Nor does it have other trim info like carpet or dash insulators. Given that, I've started a new page (Interior/Interior Trim) and have added illustrations for the missing things. And, I will transfer the part number info from the previous page as well as add part #'s for the newly-added items. And, when that's done I'll hide the original page and redirect any links to the new page.

LOL! You have the BUG! (They say "It takes one to know one", and I'm living proof of that being right.) For $400????? I'd have been all over that like white on rice. For sure. And then asked forgiveness of my wife. That's one of those no-brainers. I think that is a Free Wheeling Package A, as outlined on Page 10 here: Literature/1981 Literature/1981 Pickup Brochure. But at some point it has had the grille and headlight doors replaced as they should be black. And that's fairly obvious as the grille is a 1982+ design, so isn't original to the truck. COOL! EDIT: To rotate pics you just need to open them and then save them with some photo editing app.

When you start working on the house I'll be you hear it fire up and she'll be gone.

That is a nice truck. And, it appears to be an XLS, although if so the bumpers, mirrors, and grille have been replaced. But, it seems to have the XLS tape stripe, but the "XLS" letters don't look right. I'm confused. It is in Florence, SC. I think that's where Rick/Fonzie is. Hmmmm.....

No prob. But, do you want your address to be available for everyone? I was expecting an email with the info instead of a post on here. However, you can edit your post and take the address out. Shipping to Canada may cost a bit more than I expected, but I'm happy to do that. However, if you email me you could give me your friend's address. Or, you could Paypal me the shipping to Canada.

It isn't that I didn't believe, but that sure proves the point. I've just never seen it, but they obviously did stamp at least some of the blocks with part of the VIN. I wonder if there's a rhyme or reason for which did and which didn't?

She's going to enjoy it, but you may not get it back.

The top fell off! So, are you going to keep it that way for a while? Or are you cleaning or working on things?

I struggled with this at every step Gary...lol. Every time I had to buy something, there were always so many options and angles, and all the while I was trying to not spend much at all. Camshafts are probably the hardest part since there are so many options and directions to go. Carbs, intakes, and headers...there's a only a few choices in the $$$ range I was in. Part of me wanted to do even more upgrades like the roller block and aluminum heads, but I was at the same time trying to keep myself in check. Obviously the stock D8 heads had to go...I don't think there was much arguing over that one. Now, next thing is to get everything installed, and see where the MPG lands with the 5spd and 3.08 gears. A little tall perhaps, but it might make for good highway manners. You were wise to ditch the D8 head's. I spend a great deal of time porting a pair of those and wound up with very little improvement. Hard to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

Look what I found. Looks to be either 1980's Green Pine or 1981's Spruce. I'd say the outside pic with sunshine is the most accurate color rendition. Either way it is going to have to be painted to match your blue. Just give me an address and I'll get it in the mail on Monday.

That's surely what it means. But call them and ask? You'll probably want to do that to see if there are any specials going on as they do run specials.

Good point on the intake Pete. I learned a lot as I went along here, and there are a few things in hindsight I could've or should've done differently. The intake is something that I maybe should have bumped up to RPM version. I know it is not much better than a stock 4v intake, but it still is far better than my stock cast iron 2v intake was. In that regard, it was still an upgrade (along with the Holley 600). I don't have any regrets, but the one thing that nagged at me a bit was the block. If one were to follow the internet dogma, it seems you are a fool if you don't swap in a roller block if you have the opportunity. They are cheap and seem to be common enough to come by. Maybe I spent too much time reading Mustang forums...lol, I dunno. In any case, I didn't want to discard a perfectly good low mileage block, and the fact it was original to the truck made me want to keep it as well. The other thing was the cylinder heads. Installing aftermarket aluminums is the defacto standard these days, and that is another topic it seems one is thought to be crazy if they don't do it. This one really came down to cost. Aluminum heads are priced well, but they were going to cause me to need new rockers and push rods which were going to cause me to need new valve covers, etc. It was turning into a $2000 bill very quickly, and I came across a good deal on freshly rebuilt GT40 Explorer heads, so that is the way I went. Anyway, I am really pleased with how it all turned out. I have a nice little 300HP 302, which is a nice step-up from the stock low compression 2bbl factory set-up. Any time you get 1 HP for 1 cubic inch you have a strong engine. Yes, you could get more out of it, but to do so requires you to join the "spending is limitless" camp, and that wasn't your goal. I think you did a very good job of choosing good components that work together.

Welcome! Glad you found us. Have you looked and the No Start procedure in Electrical/EEC-IV diagnostics? As you'll see, the first thing they have you check is the voltage at the throttle position sensor. But, then they have you check for spark at a plug and, failing that, spark at the coil. If you have spark there they suggest checking the cap, rotor, and wires - although I don't have that section shown. So, if you have spark on the coil wire and not at the plug I'd concentrate on the distributor. Have you checked to see that the rotor spins when you crank the engine? I'd think that with spark and the coil and the rotor turning you'd have to get spark at the plugs unless there's a serious short on the high voltage side within the distributor.

Those are excellent #'s!! Dialing in the timing like that will make a big difference in starting and economy, as well as power. And breaking it in on the dyno means you know it'll work w/o springing all kinds of leaks when you start it up in the vehicle. And, it sure is fun as well. Isn't the sound cool!?!? Congrat's!!

Well spotted, as the Brit's say. And now we know.

The offer stands, so if the other deal doesn't work out these will be here. At least until the show/swap meet as they'll be offered there as well. Anyway, glad we can help you. I think you'll find that's the spirit on this forum.

David - Glad you asked the question. I was off in left field. Dave - You mean they couldn't find it in the computer? That seems to be all they know anymore. Anyway, you got mainly what you need, albeit a different color. How much will you have to repaint?

Cash left me the door panels shown below to pass on to someone. So, if you want to pay the freight they are yours. Or, you could come to pick them up in Sept for the show. Give me a zip code and I'll figure out the freight. And if you want any closer or other pictures just let me know.

It helps for you to tell us which parts you need - by part number so there is no confusion. I have the regular cab interior trim part numbers here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/rear-corner-trim.html. But that doesn’t include the rear Bronco trim. So I’ll try to find time to put the Bronco info on soon so you can find those numbers and tell us.

If you are just needing the visible parts, let me look to see what I have. But I can’t look until maybe tomorrow. Also, I think I have a pair of door panels you can have that have the slide lock cutouts. Don’t remember how good they are, but will look.

Good question. I'd forgotten that I don't have true readings on the coolant gauge. The "mechanic" that installed the aftermarket gauges for Vernon used the coolant opening for the mechanical gauge and didn't install the sender anywhere. So that gauge has been reading "zero". As for the fuel gauge, it has no connectivity because the circuit for it runs through the 6-port valve and I removed it. But, I did have a good reading on the oil pressure gauge. So, the problem isn't the ICVR. Apparently the wire that should go to the temp sender is grounded somewhere. Glad you asked the question.

I kinda like the factory covers as well. The blue really makes the whole thing pop. The original gray was so drab...what little of it was left of it (everything was rusty anyway). I may end up leaving them just as they are. This thing is by no means a show truck and nobody will really ever see under the hood except me anyway. If I decide to get nice covers later, they'd be something along the lines of these Scott Drake aluminum ones below: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sdk-6a582-302/overview/make/ford Those are nice looking covers. I really like the black and aluminum look.