Gary Lewis

Yep. But look at the rest of the gas-powered engines for 1983. Note that there was a version of the 351W that was rated at 2 more ft-lbs at 600 RPM less than the other one. Yes, it was down 8 HP, but it was the only 351W offered in CA in the pickups or Bronco. 302 2V: 351W 2V:

Bill - I guess I have a whole lot to learn about the computers. Gonna be a steep learning curve, and I'll need help. As for horsepower info, here's what I find in the 1983 dealer's fact book for a couple of the engines. And this provides a glimpse of why I like those books. Puts an end to lots of arguments about what HP and torque the engines had. But, it raises lots and LOTS of questions. Like, why does the power of the 300 Six vary depending on what axle ratio you have? Or, why does a CA-spec 460 have more torque and at a lower RPM than a 49-state 460? And, it also makes my idea of creating a table much, much more difficult as there isn't a single rating for any of the engines. 300 Six: 460:

It is very possible to have the thermostat in backwards. The spring and the works go down into the block. And, it is possible the 'stat stuck. To check for overheating, use a non-contact, aka IR, thermometer on the base of the thermostat housing. Aren't you glad you broke it in on the dyno? Otherwise you'd risk damaging the cam by stopping the engine while it was breaking in.

Time for an update on Big Blue's EFI quest. Not a lot to tell, but: Core Tuning: I haven't yet purchased the software & hardware from them with which to modify the EEC-IV ECU. We have it down to the right package, but there's a debate going on between Adam and Ben with regard to what wide-band AFR meter I should have. It has almost been a month since their conflicting recommendations came in, so I think I'll have to check back in to see what I should do. Cam: I'm not impressed with the power that Big Blue's 460 puts out, and have been attributing it to the cam. I put together a spreadsheet to compare and contrast cams, and got really confused. With so many variables and wildly-varying claims by the manufactures it is mind-boggling. Then I thought I'd work with Lunati to see what they recommend, and discovered that there are several required fields in their recommendation-request form that I simply do not know. At that I turned to an independent party and emailed Scott Johnston, aka The Mad Porter. he said: Then the discussion turned to cams. I know he thinks the Edelbrock cam is "poo", so I asked him what he thought I should have: So I told him that once I get the engine torn down and determine the pistons used as well as the deck height, and therefore the compression ratio, I'll get back with him and we will finalize the cam. Compression Ratio: Speaking of the probable compression ratio, I had been assuming that it has quite a bit since it requires 91 octane to keep from pinging, and even then I have to pull the vacuum advance or it'll ping when pulling a heavy trailer. But, I now think that what I have is a distributor set up for EGR and yet I'm not running EGR. I say that because it fits both the experienced pinging as well as the fact that Vernon's engine builder didn't know what he was doing. So, I'm sure he slapped the non-EGR intake on w/o regard to the changes needed in the timing. So the spark is coming in way too soon, and that probably has something to do with the spots showing up on the spark plugs. Bill - How hard is it going to be to create a timing curve in the ECU that works w/o EGR? Heads: Huck, the 1990 F250, came with 1993+ F3 heads. From my reading those are very good heads, and while they could be improved with porting they flow well for low-end torque, which is what I'm looking for. So I'm taking them to Eric Weingartner tomorrow. Eric no longer ports cast iron, but he will go through the heads completely. And, I'll ask him to install the Comp 926 springs that Scott says I'll need. Plus, I want to get his take on cams.

A co-worker used to say: One frog said to the other "Time's fun when you are having flies."

Can't tell from the pic as it doesn't go low enough, but with the accent color on the top that's either the Regular Tu-Tone or Combination Tu-Tone.

Last weekend I went to the FORDification show in SW MO. The plan was just to network and pass out the fliers, and it worked as I talked to a lot of people who said they will be at the show. But, they twisted my arm and I entered Big Blue - and won Best 4X4. I also spent quite a bit of time there talking to a couple that used to run a show held in Branson. It finally grew so big that it was consuming all of their available time. So they handed it off to someone else and it has continued to grow. I sure don't want to spend all of my time that way. But, today I spent time emailing with the hotel, Totally Stainless, and Scotty (The Mad Porter). The last two are ones I'm talking to about buying something, but Totally Stainless has already said they'll send something. And Saturday I'm taking the 460 heads to Eric Weingartner for freshening up, but while there I'll tell him about the show and leave fliers. From there I'll go to 4WD Parts, give them a flier, and remind them of their promise of freebies. So, it is taking a lot of planning. And follow-up. And networking. I guess we will see how it turns out - 3 months from tomorrow.

This is just a reminder that anyone looking for a room for the show should sign up. Three of the ten rooms that I have reserved have been spoken for, and as of Aug 16th the remaining rooms will be released. So, if you want a room at the reduced rate then follow the instructions shown here.

It doesn't take much space. You just don't want the aluminum in contact. But I think the vapor barrier is a good idea.

Great! That looks like what I want to use. But, do they have a gap between the aluminum foil and the door? If so, that's the way the aluminum works best - reflecting heat across an air gap. Speaking of heat, I got in Big Blue today after he'd been sitting in the sun. Since he doesn't have a headliner at present I wondered how hot the "ceiling" was. OUCH! Way too hot to hold my hand on, although after a few minutes of driving the 93 degree air had cooled it down fairly well. Anyway, I'm thinking about using something like this Dynamic Sound & Insulation Kit from JBG when the time comes. Then put the new headliner over that.

Excellent! I hope it is what you want. Please let us know how it goes.

Good luck! But, do you need a wiring diagram for the relay? Do you need tips for pulling & replacing the distributor?

Pete - I'm pretty sure I do not have any, but I'll look later today.

My page says, with the bolding added: Given that, you are not going to find SEM 3086 in stock. But, plenty of places will mix it for you. So, on the SEM home page click Find A Distributor in the upper right and see who is near you.

No. I know the speedo is off 5 MPH at 65, which is about 7.5%. So, if the odo is off that much then I would have gotten 12.0 MPG. Yippee! I am headed out with it in a bit, so will check it. Thanks! Well, I chased that rabbit to ground and found out it is a ghost. A vision of improved MPG w/a 460. The odometer said 4.0 miles and the GPS said 4.04 miles. But, part of that trip was taking the 1982 and '83 dealer fact books, the 1983 F-series and Bronco brochures, and the 1983 paint chart to be scanned. I had planned to do it myself, but it hasn't happened so now is the time. And, when I get them back I'm thinking of using the three dealer fact books that I have (1981, 2, & 3) to create a HP & torque table, with references back to the sources. I came up with that idea last night when someone was trying to tell me that the 351M and the 400 are basically the same engine. With a little digging in the fact books I was able to tell him: Yep, that's no typo - 1600 RPM. Anyway, the facts from Ford seemed to settle the discussion, and I think it would be good to have all the info like that I can gather in one spot. Thoughts?

I don't agree. My page, linked above, has the pages directly from the SEM website. But, to prove it, here's the link to the 1981 colors on their website. Scroll down to the interior colors and you'll find Ford at the very bottom on the left-hand side. Wedgewood Blue: 3086.

Well, it certainly isn't a Made In The US truck. Jose - I'm reasonably sure that the easiest and cheapest way to fix your ignition system is to go with the HEI-style distributor. But you will have to add a relay and fuse. Use the Red/Light Green wire that probably goes to the coil at present to pull the relay in. And use a minimum of a #12 wire to the battery through a fuse to provide power to the relay.

Well done! But what's an "air handler"? And on the battery tray, I think you'll have to relocate the starter solenoid slightly, but shouldn't be a problem.

David - Aren't those exterior paints? I think she's looking for interior. Anna - Where did you get the number 15133? My page shows Wedgewood Blue to be 3086.

They look good. Did they happen to have them in 3 and 2-wire configurations?

Perhaps we should check with the expert on bras... Chris. By the way, this is what Gary is talking about: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-20160917_184951_1__9ff480b0d8c43050df3101ed633e536cd2f53338.jpg Good idea!

Maybe. I think I'd jumper the switch with a video camera running. But, don't run the compressor long.

Yes. But if there was a leak that big wouldn't it have all come out by now?

No. I know the speedo is off 5 MPH at 65, which is about 7.5%. So, if the odo is off that much then I would have gotten 12.0 MPG. Yippee! I am headed out with it in a bit, so will check it. Thanks!

Gas mileage aerodynamics! Maybe that "bra" would look right at home there?