Gary Lewis

$44.11 for me;( YIPES!!!!!!! Must be one of those things getting retribution tariffs.

Free.

Bill - I agree that it doesn't add up as a US-made 1981 could have had a 302, but that would have had a DS-II ignition - as well as a Tecumseh A/C compressor. But, might a truck made in Mexico have had later-style systems/components? Perhaps we should figure some things out before we send Jose off to buy parts. But, do you agree that an HEI-style dizzy would be the easiest way to go? Jose - There should be a label on the driver's door jamb. It is called the certification label and should look like the one here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/certification-label.html. Can you take a picture of it and post it? And, we need to make sure it really is a 302 as the distributor for a 351W is longer if I remember correctly. So, two ways to tell. The intake manifold is 8 - 9" wide on a 302 and 10 - 11" wide on a 351W. Another way is the lower thermostat housing bolt is really hard to get to on a 302 as it is behind the timing cover, but because of the taller block on a 351W the bolt is above the timing cover.

If you use JB Weld you won't be able to get it off unless you coat the splines with something like grease. And, you'll have to take the shifter off and turn it upside down or the JB Weld will run out. A better solution than JB Weld would be the ribbon epoxy that's like a putty since it wouldn't run out, but it'll be dicey making sure the knob will come off when you want it to do so. Maybe that's where the Saran Wrap could be used? Another approach would be to drill the knob for a set screw. But you'd probably just be drilling into plastic so couldn't torque down much on the screw. Then there's RTV. If the shift lever was really clean the RTV would adhere pretty well, but still let you get the knob off. Now, how did I do it? Duct tape. I wrapped a couple of turns of it around the splines and jammed the knob down over that. And as long as I didn't pull up pretty hard on the knob it stayed put.

Jose - I've started a new thread for you in the main section of the forum, here: DS-II For Jose. That's really the place to be discussing things like this as it will get more people's input. Anyway, take a look and see what you think.

Jose, from Mexico, is looking for the components to convert his late father's '81 F150 to DS-II, as described on his introduction thread, here: Hello People ! But that's getting very little participation, so I thought I'd start this thread in the hopes that others will see it and jump in to help. As you can see in the other thread, his '81 has a computer-controlled ignition. But, with so many things being disconnected I'm pretty sure the computer will have the advanced locked in limp-home mode. So, I suggested that he convert it to DS-II, and he asked me to come up with a list of things he needs. Here goes, but when I go wrong please correct me. And, it looks to me like there are two approaches - go back with the Ford DS-II system or a one-wire HEI: FORD DS-II SYSTEM: Engine Wiring Harness: The engine harness on the truck must be the DS-III harness, so he will need a DS-II harness. And I know of only two ways to do that: DS-II Module: He will also need the blue-grommet module, and that could come from a number of places: Ignition Coil: A stock Ford coil would work perfectly: Distributor: This Spectra Premium from Amazon would fit the bill. HEI One-Wire Distributor: Guys, why not just use an HEI-style distributor and be done with it? No need for a new harness, nor ignition box, nor coil. It is so much cheaper as here's one from Amazon for $50, but there are lots of other options. And, I realize he would need a relay and some hefty wire to light it up, but that's inexpensive and fairly easily done. So, help me think through this, please. And remember that he has to get all of this shipped to Mexico.

Hey Reamer, Check out this Flareside in Quebec;). https://www.kijiji.ca/v-voiture-collection/laval-rive-nord/camion-antique/1361963049?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true Man, it is amazing how those fender skirts make the rear of that truck look fat. At first glance I thought it is a DRW Flareside. And, the saying about "There is no accounting for taste" left out a bit - "or the lack thereof".

I don't know which one is dropping at idle. My plan is to run a leak-down test when the engine is on the stand this fall - obviously before I pull it apart. Then I should know which one is dropping. But the rods, jets, and float levels are spot-on, or were last year when I rebuilt it. However, I haven't checked the dizzy, so will do. I know the vacuum advance works as it doesn't ping w/o it, but does ping under load, like a truck on the trailer, with it. Don't have a dial-back timing light, but can still get the job done w/my digital tach and the timing light. Ditto for the vacuum advance using the Mityvac. But I'll want to paint the lines on the damper before I do 'cause that fan blade bit the timing light several times today when I tried to get closer. Think I'll do the testing at night. And yes, the plugs look odd. Spotted in several cases. I didn't mention that because I wanted to see what you'd say. Last, 11.2 is disappointing, for sure. Keith Dickson, who is Mr FORDification, has a '78 Supercab w/a 460/C6/3.54 and he also got 11.2 @ 65 MPH going to the show. No way he should get the same as I given that C6 vs my T19, even though I have the 33" tires. So something is wrong. I don't want to spend a lot of time trying to fix it, though, as the tear-down for EFI should do that this fall/winter. That is, assuming the leak-down test doesn't flag something wrong internally. Was just hoping plugs would fix it.

Cool!!

No stupid questions. Anyway, I don't think it matters. (If you plumb it backwards does it work like an air conditioner? ) But, I put the factory illustration up here: Cooling Systems/Heater Hoses.

Jose - You don't need to compensate me. I'm happy to help you. That's what this forum is all about. Let me do some thinking about what you need. But I do know that the wiring harness is pretty expensive if you have to buy a new one, so maybe someone on here knows of one? I may have an extra blue-grommet DS-II module that I could let go cheaply. Then there is the distributor, and a coil. Again, I'll do some checking and get back with you.

You ought to find out where the smoke or vapor came from. The evaporator is in the black housing, but I can't see it being cold enough in 10 seconds to cause vapor.

Bill - Two things. First, I gotta insulate Big Blue as the floor does get warm. But I think I'll probably use something purpose-built, like Acoustishield if Mark thinks it works for him. Second, I need your expertise on plugs & jetting for Big Blue. Got to thinking on the drive home Saturday, after finding out that I was getting 11.2 MPG, that I might re-jet the Eddy or slip the Street Demon on to see if that would help. But today I pulled the plugs to see how they look after coming straight in off the highway. They aren't as dark as I thought they'd be and I doubt I should lean things up. But, what do you think? Plugs 1 (left) to 4: And plugs 8 (left) to 5: While I had the plugs out I decided to replace them, so went down to see DeWayne/93F3507.3 at Skiatook Auto Parts. He didn't have the Motorcraft ASF 42P's that were in it, but we both agreed that it doesn't need the platinum plugs, so he sold me Autolite 25's, which are copper-cored. I installed those, although I cross-threaded one and had to go back to get another. And, I checked the timing - right on 10 BTDC. So, is there any benefit to leaning the Eddy? Unfortunately it looks like I'd have to swap the jets as well as the rods, so it is more work than just swapping rods or springs. Or, I could try the Street Demon, which might be cool to try. (Cool. Get it? Polymer bowl. )

Could we get a definition of "next weekend"? Seriously though, it appears you are showing the lady from Germany a good time. And, by the way, where's she from in Germany?

That's a possiblity! But, that makes me wonder. His wife's from GB and would drive on the left and the lady from Germany would drive on the right. But which side would the dog drive on? And, I loved the pic w/the dog in it.

And, for those who have never visited the Garagemahal, everyone of those drawers/trays is clearly labeled!!! Dad would have said "If that's a complement then I thank you." Coming from David I do believe it was a compliment. But there's another member, who probably won't see this due to being AWOL, that doesn't mean it as a compliment.

So, how'd it go?

What day was I supposed to read this and then see pics "this afternoon"?

How long had it run before the smoke or steam came up? I can't imagine what would cause that unless you have a leak there.

Dunno. Never tried. But you can prime it by applying pressure to the gas filler. I wrapped a spray gun/nozzle with a towel, turned the regulator down to 10 psi, and stuck it in. I think I had to turn the pressure up a bit to compensate for the vent line being open, but it didn't take much and I had gas at the carb.

Their site is here: http://www.quietride.com/acoustishield.html And here's the 80-86 truck page: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort~1~cadefjdx. But I don't see a door kit, so it must be a generic kit rather than specific.

Cool! Isn't it amazing how gunked up the EGR valve can get? That's some pretty ugly stuff passing through there.

Well done, Mark! Good idea on the tubing as I was thinking yesterday that I need to do something about the linkage rattles. (I'm amazed that I've gotten it quiet enough that I can hear those rattles.) What sound barrier did you use?

Thanks, guys! As said, I didn't even plan to enter him, and parked on the street. But they insisted. Had a really good conversation with Keith Dickson, Mr Fordification. We had similar experiences on another forum, which is why his and ours exist. And, we've both had significant and similar interactions with Bill/NumberDummy, although obviously I've spent time with Bill in my home. Further, we are both trying to use the MPC to document our flavor of Ford trucks. And while we are ahead at this point, from what he told me his method may be preferable as it'll provide pages that the search engines can read where our pages are actually pictures of text and can't be read. As I was pulling out they stopped me and asked if I could stay for a while and have dinner with them. Unfortunately I couldn't as I teach Bible class on Sundays and my lesson was no where near done. In fact, I literally just finished it. But, I'll contact them via email as I want to see what synergies we can develop between us.

Bill - Good score on the gauges. As for the MPG, Big Blue got 11.2 today on what should have been a max-MPG scenario. The maximum speed was 65 MPH and some of the stretches were 45 to 55 MPH. There was little stop and go, no passing, etc. So if Darth gets up to 12.5 MPG then there's hope for BB getting that or maybe a bit better with EFI and the ZF5. Anyway, the 220 mile run to Anderson, MO for the Fordification show went quite well. Big Blue is easy to drive and the A/C worked fine. But there's still the glass packs that need to be replaced as well as the exhaust that is hitting the frame, plus the clunks in the front that may be from a cracked frame, so things should get even better. And with the ZF5 the RPM and, therefore, the engine noise will come down as well. And now, about the Fordification show. They had 20 Ford trucks, and a few other vehicles. Big Blue was the newest Ford. I hadn't planned on entering him, so parked in the street and walked in. The guy that was working the entrance asked if that was my truck, and strongly recommended that I enter him. Glad I did - he won the trophy for Best 4x4!