Gary Lewis

Bill - See if this helps: Cooling Systems/Elbows. I can't find the right illustration for that application, but he should be able to either find it by the generic illustrations or in the part number list. And see if you agree with what I added to the Bullnose FAQ's on the 1985 DRW's.

I have a 12K winch on my trailer and it took most of it's power to pull that '60 Chevy pickup out - after we jacked it up and got inflated rubber under each corner. And we brought some trees with it.

He lives up to his name!!!! Ok, pics please. Not only of the truck, but getting it out. I'm wanting to learn new tricks.

First, I'm unclear what you meant about the DRW width. I assume you mean on my Bullnose FAQ's page. But are you saying that the 1985 and 1986 DRW's for both pickups and cab/chassis trucks had the normal axle width for SRW applications? And, that means that the 1985/6 DRW beds are different and don't have the 50" between the fenders? Then, that the track for both of those was increased in 1987? Second, I'm not sure what part you are looking for, but is it shown in this illustration?

I did have rust problems here. The core support brackets on the frame were bad, so I have new ones on the bench ready to install as soon as I get ambition enough to drill the rivets out of the originals. Something else I've been meaning to ask: I don't have much room to work under the truck, and I wondering if, when the time comes to install the engine and trans (hopefully next week) can I put them together first and then install them in the truck together in one shot? Any issues with doing it this way? Any issues with the added weight of the trans hanging on the engine? I'll be lifting the engine by the heads (chain across left front to right rear is what I did to remove it). I have a low-pro transmission jack that I can use to catch the trans once I get it in there far enough. On getting the rivets out, I found that just chiseling the head off was no where near enough as I couldn't then drive them out. But, with the head off just drilling a small hole into the rivet the depth or more of the frame and mount relieves pressure and the rivet will drive out. As for installing the engine and tranny in one go, maybe you can do it with a 302 as the pan is that much higher and smaller. And your tranny is smaller. So, w/o the radiator support it should work. And chains to the head will work, but you'll need to have the assembly at something like a 45 degree angle initially to get the tranny under the cab. Then, if you can catch the rear of the tranny with the tranny jack you can lower the engine and slide it all back. Sounds like it'll work. Good luck!

That tranny looks great! And a little slop in the input shaft is normal. Hope they get the engine together quickly and you get to finish the truck.

I understand not liking body work, but just think what it is going to look like when done!!!! Time to make it happen!

Those KC's look perfect!

Jein. (Ask Jochen.) The same socket may have been used, but the wiring harness it was attached to was different. You can see that on the new page I created just for you: Electrical/Lighting/Tag Lights. But in the HELP section at the parts store they may have that socket and you can graft it into your wiring.

Sounds like a reasonable plan. Good luck!

Was the NP435 common behind the 300/6? One of the Flareside 4x4 trucks I looked at last week had a 302, and it had a different stick again. It had some bends in it, but wasn't as curvy as the NP435. Yes, the NP and 300 were a common combo. Good workhorse combo. The 302's didn't have much torque so they could put the lighter-duty transmissions behind them. But the 300 had enough torque to work. However, because they were the base engine you see them set up two different ways. First, for economy with high-geared rear ends and a light-duty OD tranny. Or, as a low-priced work truck with the heavier-duty tranny like the NP and something like a 3.50 rear axle ratio.

Originally an XLS it appears, but has the wrong grille, fog lamps, and wheels. Oh, and motor as the 460 didn't come in an F100 - or an F150, and that's all that could be XLS'd. And it has an add-on V8 emblem that doesn't belong. But, it is a nice looking truck and appears to be in pretty good shape. However, I doubt it is really worth the asking price.

Have you looked at the Member's Map to see if anyone is close?

Excellent! Nothing to be done but cruise, and a choice of cruisers.

Sorry, but is there more I'm supposed to be able to see? What new parts on the motor?

Looks like it bolted right on and belongs.

Depends on what is meant by seized. Or, maybe I should say "why it is seized". Big Blue's engine was seized when I got it and that was because the crankcase and cylinders were full of gasoline. The engine hadn't turned over and no damage was done. I drained the crankcase, refilled it with oil, spun the oil pump to get oil in the journals, squirted oil in the cylinders, and turned it over by hand slowly. Then, when the oil had been distributed in the cylinders I fired it up. But, if this one is seized because it ran out of oil or overheated then that is a very, very different story. In either case you are looking at a rebuild or a replacement. A rebuild starts at $2000 and goes up rapidly. But you may be able to buy a running engine from someone for $500 to $1000 depending on its condition. As for if it is worth $500, I can't tell with one little picture. If the body is perfect then it is worth well more than that. If it has new tires and excellent wheels. Or a perfect interior. Or...... Bottom Line: I'd find out why the engine is seized up - but I would not take the seller's word for it, I'd check it out myself. If it appears to be an easy fix, like Big Blue's, and if I had $500 to gamble, then I might do it. But if the engine is questionable then I'd walk, or maybe run, away. Why? Because if you cannot drive it to determine what the problems are, then there will be many times more problems than the seller tells you about. And you'll have far more invested in the truck than you can get out of it. On the other hand, if all you are wanting to do is to part it out, then you need to get it for $400 or less. And that is assuming it has goodies on it like an Edelbrock intake and carb, ZF5 tranny, good tires and wheels, etc.

Full English! I like all of it but the tomato. On the windshield leak, don't fix it from the inside. Instead, use Permatex Windshield & Glass Seal from the outside. It is flowable RTV and runs into the holes and set up. Anyway, PROGRESS!

Glad you got it fixed! (Sorry for the late response - I missed this.) So, what's the next issue you are working on?

Yep, just as I thought! As for the bull bar, you can sell it and get half the price of the truck.

Ok, I should have known that it is an NP435. As for the tools required the shift lever from one, strength and a disregard for pain. It is a PAIN! The instructions are on Page 4 here (Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/NP435, and they call for a special tool - Kent-Moore J3108. But I've done it with several rags and a pair of gloves to protect my fingers. You push down HARD and turn the cap and it unlocks. Eventually.

Looks good - even with the huge dizzy. No oil or coolant leaks? Have a ploughman's for me.

Headed to the airport in it?

Bill - See if this answers the questions: Engines/385 Series. (Waiting on our daughter to show up, pack up, and then we take her to the airport for the return to Nicaragua. So, I've had a few moments.) And, by the way, I prefer giving the person asking the question on Facebook a link to the page on the website rather than the part number. That's for two reasons. First, if they pick the wrong part number that's on them. Second, it gives them access to the resource so they can answer their own questions in future.

I won't be moving the thing, but I may be interested in some parts. I was thinking of grabbing the 4-spd stick to somehow graft onto my 5spd to keep the interior looking correct-ish. Not that it matters much, but the one thing that bugs me about my 5-spd swap is that straight stick. It seems like every Bullnose with a manual trans I look into has a different "crooked" shifter stick in it. This junker has a stick like in the pictures below...any idea what tools I would need to remove it? I don't know because I don't know what transmission that is. But, if you can find out, or have some of the guys on here tell us, what tranny it is then I should be able to look it up. You could ask a question about that by starting a new thread in the main section.