Gary Lewis

Let us know.

I put several up in a hurry on Suspension/Front Suspension and on the Illustrations tab and then 4wd tab.

Wow! Three shocks. Have never seen that. Anyway, I'm not a suspension guru, although I do know that shocks won't cause the problem you are having unless they are somehow stuck. That's not likely as you have the problem on both sides. But, you can check that by removing one end of each shock to see what happens. Also, I was going to direct you to the page on my website with the illustration for your truck. Unfortunately I don't have it on the site! So, I'll put it up later. Sorry!

Mike - Welcome! You've replaced the ball joints and a tie rod. But by "front struts" do you mean shock absorbers? I'm assuming that since yours is an F250 4wd that it has leaf springs up front. Right? By the way, this forum, like many others, doesn't manipulate pics. So you need to open pics with something like Photoshop and then save them. That way the meta-data in the pic that gives the orientation is read and the pic corrected by the software.

I think the diff's, transmissions, drive shafts, and transfer cases should be relatively rust-free. And the front swing arms.

That's a good haul! Do you have all the parts needed now?

Not feeling up to snuff today, so have taken it easy. Spent some time measuring, surfing electronic catalogs, etc. And, I think I've found a way to do this, although more work needs to be done. The factory clock's faceplate is 1.563" high and 8.00" wide, and it is a tight fit into the dash, as shown below. So, whatever displays are used need to fit in that space. With a bit of searching I've found that a 2x12 display on the left, a 2x16 in the middle like the one above, and another 2x12 on the right gives a total length of 7.535" wide and they are 1.416" high. In other words, that combo will fit. Those displays have characters that are .22" high as opposed to the .25", as best I can measure, of the clock. So I'm thinking that they'll be easily read. Thoughts? I'm not sure that we want all of the characters that can be packed in there. The left would have two rows of 12 characters each, the middle two rows of 16, and the right another 2 rows of 12, for a total of 80 characters! We wouldn't have to turn all of them on, but that combo would allow something like: Oil Pressure Battery Voltage Coolant Temp 36 PSI 12.8V & 13.4V 195F Thoughts?

I'm not authorized to see the last one. As for a box, those are problematic. Some work and some don't. I like the initial intake - 3 carbs. So, what carbs?

Steve - I thought I saw a post on here asking questions about the TPS, but I can't find it to answer. Did I miss something?

Worst case - run on the center carb. It is still basically the same manifold that you have now.

We could put it on in Sept.

So either a 2 or a 3-cylinder approach has even firing. Cool!

Looks good. But what's the firing order on the six? The intake is set up as three two-cylinder engines, and the exhaust as two three-cylinder engines.

That's a possibility. Another is to have a phone bluetoothed to it to change the parameters being shown. But, that's probably not a good idea as I want it to be "for the ages" and phones and technology changes. Another thought I've had is to have upper and/or lower limits and if any parameter goes out of limits then that parameter would be shown flashing - perhaps in a different color if the display supports it.

I love it! And Heim joints would make a neat linkage. Cool! What is the exhaust? Can you tell?

David - I'm thinking more along the lines of something like the display below, although that one is slightly too big at 1.1" x 2.8" for the display itself. And the circuit board is even bigger so I'll have to work through the spacing to be able to put three of them in a row. There's also the issue of how large the characters are and if they can be read. I just checked and it looks like the factory clock numbers are 1/4" high. They are easily legible, so if we can get something about that high we should be good. Jonathan - My thoughts are to have battery voltage for both batteries, oil pressure, coolant temp, and maybe compressed air PSI for the on-board air system. But by driving the display(s) with an Arduino the sky is the limit. As long as you can find a sender for whatever you want to measure then the Arduino can read it, convert it, and display it. In fact, with the EEC-V system the Arduino could query the computer and display info from it, like fuel/air mix, inlet air temp, spark advance, etc. As for the displays to use, there's the question of which ones and how many. And, there's the question of how to tell the Arduino what to display. I've had lots of thoughts about that and have come up with several approaches. One approach is to have enough display area that you can put every output up all the time. Another is to have a button or buttons to push to call up what you want to see. And, along those lines I've thought of using a factory clock with its three buttons to call up what you want. Perhaps re-engrave the buttons with something like V/T/P?

I use Felpro gaskets.

Can you post pics of the upper and lower pieces? Or, have you already? If so, and I think you have, can you point me to them? I'll need to think about that with Big Blue when I EFI him.

Yes. You said "7-51E-R00", but that code isn't in the catalog. However, "7-51E-R0" is, and it is for the right application. My catalog has been OCR'd and I can search. But the search came up with nothing. So I guessed that the extra "0" was the issue and ran the search w/o it and got a hit.

Welcome. Was easy after I took the extra "0" off. Search didn't find it with that on.

Those are to channel air to the radiator, oil cooler, etc? Looks like you got them in after a bit of trimming.

That does sound like a bit of a problem. What was wrong with the gaskets? As for the alignment of the intake, Brandon/Bruno2 and I messed his installation up at least once if not twice using studs. I've never had that problem before, nor since, but we sure had it that day. On the RTV, I like to start with fresh tubes on a project, but it sounds like you did and had a bad tube. Were you wearing gloves? I use the thin latex throw away gloves when I use RTV since it frequently gets on my hands and then all over everything. In that case I just change out the gloves. Anyway, bummer! I hope you don't have any leaks, but from the description you might.

So, that's what you wanted - right?

The fuel pressure problem is an Edelbrock or Carter thing, and Holleys don't seem to have problems with a bit more pressure. So there's no need for a regulator on yours. However, the "white wire" should actually be white with a black stripe, and comes from the stator terminal on the alternator - as shown on Page 15 here. As Ray said, it will have about 7v and will be pulsing. All of the aftermarket Holleys I've seen have had 12v chokes but, as Ray experienced with the Edelbrock, the power from the stator wire will work. But, you'll probably need to adjust the choke as it will take too long to come off with the initial setting. That's why the better way is with a relay, as shown on Page 53 here. The power from the alternator's stator is enough to pull a relay in, and the relay connects full battery voltage to the choke.

No wonder that you've been AWOL! You've been busy. Post some pics?