Gary Lewis

There's nothing to refurbish in the rag joint, only replace. Toss the old one in the garbage, and install a new one. There are two studs/nuts on the back of the rag joint that attach it to the steering shaft. I'm going to buy a new one myself soon for when I reassemble (and reattach) my steering column. I think they're only about $20...or at least I thought they were. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. Edit: I just checked Rockauto, and it looks like you can buy just the rubber element and four bolts, but you'd have to drill the old rivets out, and that might be a pain. It's the same cost as a complete joint listed below it. I agree - replace it. Those are a known slop issue and an easy fix.

Did it change the shifting?

Welcome, Luke! Yes, it is a beautiful truck! For sure. I'm in awe. And I fully understand the "too shiny" issue and camping. (Which is why I have to project trucks.) But it is sad to see it go - especially before actually seeing it "in person". Luke has given me the green light to immortalize Big Blackie on this website, so I'll put creating a new page for him under Picture Galleries, and I'll let y'all know when it is up. Please keep us posted on the sale situation, as sad as it is.

Yes, Luke's truck is cool. And straight. And beautiful. And he's given me the green light to immortalize it here on this website. So I'll create a new page for it under Picture Galleries, soon. But don't miss the new thread on here for the interim: For Sale: 1983 F250 4WD "Big Blackie".

That is a beautiful truck! And that's a good price for what it says it is. But, if it really is a 351W then it has been swapped in as an '81 could have had a 302 or a 351M. However, a 351W would be an easy swap where a 302 was.

Are you asking how you take the coupling (rag joint) apart? Or how to take it off? I put up a close-up illustration here that may help: Suspension & Steering/Steering/Coupling - Rag Joint. Does that help?

We love England, but not so much London. It is nice, but the England we like is in the country. One of our favourite TV shows is Midsomer Murders, and much of what we like is the countryside and slower pace of life. In fact, we want to go visit the Chilterns again some day. (Used to live close to them and have been "there" many times.) So, I understand your opinion of the City.

It is a nice looking truck, but the wheelwells don't match due to the bed swap, and that puts me off.

Stopped to see the other Flareside truck today, and while it did run and drive, it was too far gone for me otherwise. However, it was a nice drive in the countryside to an area I hadn't traveled before, so that was cool. The guy had a couple other Bullnose parts trucks to go with it, but I wouldn't have room for all that even if I did want it. My wife would kill me in my sleep;). Funny, traveling out in the country, one sees all kinds of old trucks stuffed away in back yards. I noticed two Bullnoses today, rusting away in back yards. They were nothing that I wanted, so they were easy to dismiss at a glance when driving by. But still, they're out there. Anyway...off to pick up the Flareside box tomorrow. Will see what else I can scratch up for junk while traveling the wilds of the east coast;). Keep looking and you'll find something. But don't go for something you don't want.

Cool!

Changing the fluid, filter, and gasket isn't too bad - with the exception of the draining part. From the factory there's no drain plug so you have to guess which corner is low, loosen the pan bolts, and pry that corner down to get as much out as you can. And then drop the pan. Be prepared for a big mess. Don't forget that the torque converter holds as much fluid as the tranny itself. So you really need to drain it as well. There's a little pipe plug that drains it, and you need to pull the inspection cover and rotate the engine until that is at the bottom. Pull that to drain it, then put it back and it'll be filled when you fill the tranny. The pans are somewhat flimsy and over-torquing the bolts dents them, so check the pan to see if it is dented and, if so, use a small ball pein hammer to work the dents out. And when you put the pan back don't over torque it. I like to use a good layer of RTV on the gasket, put the pan on, snug up the bolts by hand, and let it sit over night for the RTV to cure. Then torque it to specs, fill it, drive it, and check the level as it'll be a bit low. But if you put RTV on and try to torque it down then the gasket will squirt out the sides due to the slipperyness of the RTV and you'll have a leak. On the mount, I'd put the jack under the tail housing or transfer case rather than the pan. As said, those pans aren't the most robust so I don't like to jack on them. But, if you put a piece of wood about the size of the pan between it and the jack that will spread the load and it'll be fine.

Bill - The idle speed adjustment procedure is now here: Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/EFI Idle Speed Adjustment

Thanks to Vinny I added a page on adjusting the idle speed on EFI engines: Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/EFI Idle Speed Adjustment.

Sadly, I haven't had any time to get out to the truck, since that day. But I took a bunch of pictures the other day and just noticed this.....uuggghh! Yuk! You have some work ahead of you.

1/80. Hmmm, I can't tell when the wiring change was made. I was thinking it was a mid-year change, but I can't prove that. Anyway, tell us how the swap is going?

I'll email you when the time comes. My plans are really up in the air at the moment. We pick the kids up about midnight tonight and we'll see how things go in Nicaragua over the next few days.

Good to know. Depending on how the ones come out of Big Blue's engine I might put them back on there and let these go with Huck's block and Big Blue's heads when I sell that setup. And, I'll probably media blast the Eddy intake and sell it and the 750 Eddy carb to recoup some of my costs. Oh yes, and the headers.

Excellent! Is your truck fuel injected? (You don't have your signature set up and I can't easily tell.) EDIT: I see that it is an '83 4.9L, which wouldn't be FI.

Interesting. That would explain why they were so hard to get out. And the threads appear to be good. Would that also make the bolts seem like they were way, way over-torqued?

Ray - That's an excellent offer. And I'm taking you up on it by sending Bill's parts to you soon. Thanks!

Yes, that's a very nice Bronco. I've been to a number of Mecum auctions and was impressed with the low prices the vehicles went for.

According to the page on Driveline/Wheels those are Type 9's and were available in 1980 and '81. And you should be able to confirm what you have by the code stamped near the valve stem if I remember correctly.

London? Or the West End? Golder's Green? Edgeware? I know, Mayfair! Used to live in Moor Park, just inside the M25, and take Brit Rail into Marylebone in the morning, walk to work on the back side of Selfridges, and then walk back to Baker Street and take the Tube home at night. This was in the late '80's when you could still drive into London, and did so on many weekends to go to the theater, museum, etc. And, we went to church in Wembly. Fond memories.

Where is she headed? Used to live there, and Mark/Dyn Blin is from there.

Yes, it is a good price. And it is well appointed, so if "everything works great" then it is a good buy.