Gary Lewis

Welcome back, Kotter! Yes, it is cold out there, and not conducive to working on a truck outdoors. And, it does keep the choke on longer. Usually takes a bit of adjusting for me to get one dialed in just right. But, I've not had a tach quit when cold. Like Jonathan, I've had them quit hot. Good luck w/that. Completing the house? Will you have inside work space when it is done?

I'm not sure they are "arguments", but just debates about the merits. Sort of along the line of what's happening in Parliament at the moment? Anyway, I kinda thought the Lucas module was expensive. So a DS-II module is probably cheaper. But, there are lessor and greater DS-II modules. Originally they had a timing retard feature in them triggered by power in the Start circuit. This helps the engine crank by slightly delaying the spark and effectively retarding the timing. But some modules don't have that. When I got Big Blue the engine was struggling to start because it would kick back frequently. I determined that the module that was on it didn't have that feature, so put one on that does, and the engine now starts much easier. I can't tell you for sure which modules have it, but the consensus has been that most true Motorcraft ones do, as do the NAPA Gold ones. But many of the chain store ones don't.

Your voltage should be 14.0 or more when running, so if it is 12.3 or 12.4 your alternator isn't working. By "has the plug built in" do you mean it doesn't have a regulator on the fender? If so it is the 2G alternator and you may have a wiring problem. You might want to read this TSB from Ford on it and check your wiring: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/96-21-04-2g-alternator-repair.html.

For the record, I got down through "These may not make the cut..." in this post from Steve83. Please check what I've done out and let me know what needs to be changed.

LOL! No, I'm not gonna tell you. Yet. Not 'til I scan it in tomorrow. It is out in the shop and I'm keeping warm in the house. But, after my annual doctor's checkup tomorrow, and taking a thumb drive to the lady doing the scanning on the Body Builder's book, I hope to get out to the shop and scan that one in. Then maybe get it posted on the same page as it's mate w/the "S". By the way, do you know if the "S" means "supplement"? It seems to be, but I've not seen a definition.

81 F250 - with a 400? But, why didn't you tell about all of today's starter issues that Kris had?

Thanks for the offer, but I don't think I'll need it. What I have will be an auto and a manual w/hydraulic linkage. So I'm good.

Duh! Yes, I have your list. And, I have my list. And I have both of them on this page. And I'm the one with that TSB.

You may have ring problems then. That 55 is low, and the oil can seal it. But, the leak-down test should prove whether the valves are bad. However, if you are pulling it down you will probably want to send the heads out anyway. Yes, start a new thread so we can follow along.

AOD. Cars got the AOD-E version beginning in late '93; trucks got the 4R70W (sometimes labelled AODE-W) version beginning in '94. https://supermotors.net/getfile/912634/thumbnail/transtags.jpg Good to know!

I'm going back with Moog, if that answers the question.

Read the TSB: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1linmC4xUKf5gGZrkeLwa7z2V5GutxdVy Good point, Steve. I haven't gotten that TSB on yet, so had not read it. But, we don't have 82-25-16, which apparently has a Figure 8 which shows which calibration got the light. Do you have that TSB?

Welcome! Glad to meet you. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I could easily add you if you just give me the town wherein you live. As for questions, we love to help. The best way is to start a thread about your truck or about a particular question. That's usually done in the main section, although a project thread is good as well. Anyway, welcome!

Should work well. The front pumpkin is higher than originally, and the t-case probably is as well.

Yes, the t-case vent goes up in the boot. But if you take it up into the engine compartment and put an end/cap on it so water and dirt can't come it it should be even better.

Rick - You may not have seen Ray/NotEnoughTrucks post in the Lost And Cornfused thread, but Daniel Sterns' article about using the HEI module is very informative. Granted it is a comparison of the HEI to a Chrysler ignition, but I believe the DS-II ignition would have essentially the same waveform as the Chrysler. That's because both use a ballast resistor. The skinny wiring and ballast resistor that both Ford and Chrysler used severely limited the current to the coil. And the current multiplied by the time it flows determines the energy stored in the coil. Since the energy you get out is the energy that you put in, minus that for heating, the spark cannot be as strong with a current-limited approach. While I'm not advocating installing an HEI module in place of a DS-II module because of the limited availability of parts when on the road, there is an advantage to doing so - a hotter spark. And if one were to carry a spare of some kind or make the module easily-swapped then I could see doing it.

The transfer case breather is supposed to go up and be tied to the shifter. You can see it in the first illustration here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/transfer-cases.html

When I first installed it I did it that way and as said when you went to turn the motor off you had to push the button in on the left so the key would turn a little more to shut down. This button is so you can turn the key to the lock pos. to get the key out and should not need to do that to shut it off. Right now the switch is adjusted down as far as it will go so if it still "hangs up" I will go for a new switch. I do have another used one but as hard as it is to get to I think new is the way to go for now. We will see in time. Dave ---- On Big Blue you have to push the button to turn the key far enough to shut off. I thought that's the way it is supposed to be.

Interesting idea, Bill. I did some reading on that module and it looks like several of the Jags used it. But, one listing had it at 165 Pounds Sterling, which has to be over $200. Perhaps that's one specific to a Jag? Maybe there are cheaper ones? Perhaps that's cheaper than shipping a DS-II module over the pond?

I forgot you are in England. Over here the modules are available in many, if not all, parts stores. If you go HEI don't miss that you need a relay since the module is power-hungry and you have to bypass the built-in ballast resistor. For a DS-II harness, we have this outfit listed in Resources: American Auto Wire. I don't know anything about them, but we've had some feedback that the Painless harness isn't painless. And, it is expensive. So, you might try this one. However, looking at their instruction sheet, it isn't totally plug-and-play.

Alan - Now we need to write up the DS-II tab on the Ignition page. But basically you need to source a DS-II distributor, wiring harness, and blue-grommet ignition module. And then it is plug-and-play. As for "just wiring a duraspark distributor up to a hei module", that's something I would be reluctant to do. And my reasoning is that you'd now have a one-off situation where a failure of the HEI module would have you stranded. However, there are at least two ways around that. One is to make two of the HEI modules. For instance, if you gut a DS-II box to be the housing/heat sink, then make two of them and wire them with connectors so they can be easily swapped. Another is to make the installation of the module in the housing/heat sink such that the module itself can be easily replaced, and carry a spare module. I'm not at all saying that an HEI module is more prone to failure than a DS-II box. Not at all. It is just that I don't want to create a system that is so specialized that when something in it fails I'm stuck and have to break out the soldering gun to fix it. Instead, I want an easy and quick way to get back on the road. A stock DS-II box is readily available 'most anywhere, as are HEI modules from what I read. But the DS-II box is an easy unplug/replug, so I'd make sure the HEI module is as well.

Dave, The shift(up) indicator light only showed up in 1984, and maybe 1985. Gary can explain. My 1984 has the "Shift" indicator lens, non operational. It might have also been there in 1983, but 1984 for sure. A previous post said: Here's the entry from the Year-To-Year Differences page on the Electrical tab: And that's all I know.

That's a really good price for a Bronco! But it is hard to tell with so few pics what shape it is in.

It is certainly missing some trim - like all of it. And the front bumper looks sad. But, the interior looks good. And with a tach, clock, and courtesy lights it was a high-end truck. Not bad at all for $2000, obo.

According to what I read in this book, that's probably an AODE. And it looks like the easiest way to tell is whether or not it has two input shafts, one inside the other. If so, it is an AOD, and if it only has a single input shaft it is the E. On the other hand, an AODE has a large connector on the left side that the AOD doesn't have, as shown below. Here are some pics from that book to help ID: