Gary Lewis

Yes, the fuel pump is down there, but no you cannot take the pulley off as that requires a special puller. However, you can loosen the tension on the belt and then take the power steering pump bracket off the engine and lay the pump to one side. But, make sure you don't have a bad hose. The hoses on these trucks weren't made for gasohol and that eats them up. And if the hose before the pump has any split or porosity, or a bad clamp, where it can suck in air it won't be able to pull gas and pump it.

Just to let you know, I'm following this but don't have a lot to contribute. However, I do think the 5.72 synchro'd 1st gear could get about anything rolling. And with a 5.13 rear you are looking at a 29.34:1 gear ratio. Compare that to your close-ratio T-18 and 3.00 gears at 12.06. In fact, that's essentially the same as your's in 4lo of 31.43 - assuming you have the NP208.

That's a good combo. What are your plans for the truck? Uses? Also, do you have good salvages in your area?

Well, I only have half a day today, but I checked what I'd done yesterday and realized I didn't have the shift lever in correctly. It was 1/4 turn off of where they wanted it and therefore wouldn't shift into all of the gears. I don't have the special tool that supposedly holds things in Neutral. And I've found it almost impossible to shift properly on the bench w/the back case half off. But after studying the instructions and diagrams I've realized the drawing below on the left, which is from Borg Warner's instructions, seemed to be the key. As you can see, there are two rollers, circled in blue, that go in slots on the shift cam. And you want them to be in the positions shown when the shift lever is in the 11:00 o'clock position, which wasn't the situation before. So with quite a bit of playing I finally got the gears into a position that had the rollers in those places on the cam. And, sure enough, the shift lever went in and points roughly at 11:00 o'clock. But then I consulted Ford's instructions and found the diagram on the right. In the text associated with that drawing, but after installing the gears and shift assembly, it says "Insert detent ball and spring in detent bore in case half (Fig. 19). Coat the seal plug with RTV sealant or equivalent. Drive plug into case until the lip of the plug is 0.79mm (1/32 inch) below the surface of the case. Peen the case over the plug in two places." Oops! I don't have the ball & spring in, and I didn't drive the plug out. But, the good news is that it appears to be sitting such that if the detent ball were in there it would be in the Neutral slot. The bad news is that I think the spring is too long to let the ball sit in the bore of the case while the shifter is installed. So it'll have to be installed afterward.

See what you think about the discussion in this thread: For those needing the "Argent" color for the grill and headlight buckets, I have the answer...

Yes, that's the way it works. Thanks for the feedback.

Got a couple of notes back from Justin of R&D IDI Performance. He's the guy Jonathan suggested I contact. He uses Cerakote products and suggested I give them a try as he's had good luck with them. So I'm reading up on their stuff. Also, Eastwood sells a paint for coating the inside of the exhaust system. I'm pretty leery of this approach, but am still exploring. And I do understand the idea of coating both the inside and out. I've had enough physics and run enough experiments on emissivity & radiation to grasp the concept. Bottom Line: I'm reluctant to branch off into coating with new-to-me materials for what will hopefully be a limited volume - the exhaust systems for both Big Blue and Dad's truck. So will be reading up on who does this kind of stuff, including Calico, but would prefer someone local. Suggestions welcome.

1980 - 81 only.

1980 and 81 only.

Type 5: 80/ F-U100/350-R E0TZ 17682-D R.H. chrome

You can add 1990 in there too, the fuse box I pulled from my 1990 cab was stamped E0TZ. All I know is what I read in the MPC, and mine stops in 1989. But Huck, the 1990 half-truck, did have the same fuse cover, now that you mention it.

L&L's were on Big Blue when I got him several years ago, and they didn't hang down low. And other than the fact that the left one hit the frame, which I can correct by shimming the engine's mounts, I had no problems with them. In fact, no blown gaskets, probably due to the 1/2" thick header flange. That's why I'm going back with L&L's. But I need to figure out if there is a good way to keep them from rusting and keep the heat from baking everything. And as of now the outfit in OKC hasn't returned my call. But I did send a note to Justin @ R&D to see what he recommends.

1984 - 86, but it looks like it only fits some 1984's as there were two different shafts. That's confusing as the 1983 460's and IDI's came with hydraulic clutches, so I don't think the MPC is correct. I believe E4TZ 7506-A is the hydraulic clutch shaft and it also fits the 1983 460's and IDI's. 80/84 F 100/350,U150 All EOTZ 7506-A //undercut both ends 1 84/86 F 150/350,U150 E4TZ 7506-A //undercut one end, knurled other

1982 through at least 1989: 82/ F-U100/350 6&8 All E2TZ 14A076-A

80/82 F-U100/350 EOTZ 17724—B Lower 3 holes 6x9 mirror

That's a really hard thing to tell what it goes on. The issue is that the MPC lists parts of a distributor in a table like below, and you can see from the highlighting that the vacuum diaphragm in question fits two different distributor numbers in this snippet alone. But that table is 12 pages long and there are several distributors that use that diaphragm. Once you have the distributor's part number you take that #, not the diaphragm's, and search the MPC for that. You'll get hits in one or more calibration parts list(s), and that will tell you what vehicles use that diaphragm. Clear as mud?

Wow! That IS old. I don't think I've ever seen one of those.

Glad you have confidence in me, Jim. Well, I got the case halves cleaned up and maybe half of the t-case together today. I have two of the three seals in, but only one of the two ball bearings and none of the needle bearings. So, maybe half way? Having said that, there's a tool you are supposed to have to hold the sun gear (reduction carrier assembly in Fordspeak) in the neutral position as you install it. I don't have it, but I think I got the assembly in correctly. However, we aren't in a position to be able to shift yet, so I don't know. Anyway, here's where I am on the left, and the tool I'm talking about on the right. Oh yes, I'm sure glad we have the Borg Warner instructions. They are far better than those in the FSM, which we also have.

You are now on the map, and you aren't far from Sam/Swampedout. On the carb, I'm sure David will be along soon to welcome you.

Welcome! Is it Ajit? Glad you joined. What part of NM? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to put you on if I had a town/city. You are in good company here - there are lots of us that love the 300 six. As for a carb, if you decide not to rebuild that one we'll have to dig up David/1986F150Six's info as he has one that works really well.

Not sure what you mean by "ceramic". The VHT paint is said to be ceramic, but that's probably not what you meant - right? Does Justin do ceramic for others? I'm reading up on ceramic coatings. CermaKrome looks interesting. I can do 500 degrees in my oven.

Good! I was about to see if I could figure it out. What's the answer?

I think that having the new owner supply the tubes is a good idea. As you said, it'll sure cut down on the shipping cost. But will you supply any drawings to show how big they usually are and where they go? On the dash patch, sure! I'd like one.

Well, I was mistaken. I'd guessed at the wrong length of headers, and I'd picked the wrong coating. So the price is $561. I had a really good call with Debi at Jet-Coat, who knows her stuff. First, I'd picked too short of headers and I'd picked the Classic coating. But the longer headers I'm talking about would be $425 with the Classic coating. However, that coating is "only" good to 1200 degrees, and when I said "EFI" she quickly informed me that sometimes that will drive the temp too high for the Classic coating. Instead, she recommended the Offroad coating, which is good to 2000 degrees, and that would be $561 on long-tubes. As for the temp reduction, the Classic polished coating reduces temps "up to 65%", while the Offroad coating reduces temps "40 - 43%" due to the lack of polish. And seems to corroborate the 65%. And I'm not planning to wrap the headers. So, with the above I think I'm out of the Jet-Hot market. But I don't know that I'm out of the ceramic coating market just yet. I've called HPC Coatings in Oklahoma City and will see what they say. Or, I might just media-blast them and do some kind of coating myself. Suggestions, folks?

Recently Jim suggested that I get my to-be headers for Big Blue Jet-Hot coated. I forgot to respond to that, but let's do that in a separate thread rather than in Big Blue's Transformation as there's a remote chance that one or two people have grown weary of the never-ending saga. I'm planning to go with L&L headers, and probably these 79760FP's which run ~$600, probably plus shipping. (Having said that, Jet-Hot says they sell headers already coated and I've started a conversation with them so will ask if they have some that fit BB.) And the quick quote from Jet-Hot is $365, inc return shipping. From what I've read there are really two advantages to coating the headers: Much longer life to the headers as they aren't going to rust Much lower heat emission, thereby reducing underhood temps as well as increasing efficiencies Yes, there's another - the looks. But while I've powder coated many things, I'm not too worried about the looks of the headers. So, what are your thoughts? Is it worth 50% more $ to reduce the temps and increase efficiency?