Gary Lewis

Numberdummy has an opinion and expresses it? Yes, Bill does. And he'd be the first to admit it. He's a friend of mine, and has even been in my home. But I have been told I'm wrong - more than once. (Between you and me, I wasn't.)

I had something about this typed in last night, but decided to keep the response simple so deleted it. In the EVTM there's a pink/light blue wire going from the compressor itself back to the ECU. My guess is that it is in the engine harness along with the injector wiring given the location of the compressor. But I'll check in a bit to make sure. On the evap system, I'm not running canisters. And I think that is turned off, but I don't remember for sure. Having said that, it wouldn't hurt to include that wire in the harness going across the radiator support in case I decide to add canisters later.

Kinda 'spensive for not running. Who knows if the turbo and GVOD are any good. But I like the wheels.

It is DRW, right? So they sectioned a bed and widened it?

That IS a nice truck. And I was loading up for a trip to get it when I saw the "Price is $15,000 OBO not 1500 please read description!" Not sure why he doesn't edit it, but anyway I'm unloading. Seriously though, that's not a bad price for such a pristine truck.

If by "quite a serious project" you mean A LOT OF WORK AND EXPENSE then I'm with you. But, I hear 4-door Broncos are the in thing.

Welcome, Bill. But it is the rest of y'all that have made this site what it is. As for gauges, have you seen this: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/gauge-pocket.html

In spite of our proximity Randy and I've not met. But we have emailed, texted, and talked on the phone - social distance? But I didn't address the hard-to-turn problem. I don't understand what would make that happen and have no experience with it, so I'll defer to you.

I do not, no. They are only the shorty headers that fit in place of the stock manifolds, so they're no closer to the starter than the manifold was, although I'm sure they radiate more heat. However...with ambient temps being only 41-42 degrees, I can't imagine that it was getting that hot under the hood? Sitting in traffic in the middle of summer, sure, but now barely above freezing? In any case, it is a good point... I'm pretty sure Scott @ Parkland told me to set it at 17deg BTDC, but maybe that is just a touch too far. I guess it's free to dial it back and see what happens. I was hoping to not have to touch it since it is running so well now. I agree that 17 seems like a lot. But, if Scotty recommended that then that's what I would try initially. However, your description sure seems like the engine isn't liking it during starting. In my experience not all DS-II ignition systems have the retard feature built in. When I got Big Blue it started quickly when cold but struggled when hot. So I tried a different ignition box and it started easily hot. I swapped back and it struggled. And that box said Motorcraft on it. If you have another box you might try that. If not, or if it doesn't help, then dial the initial timing back a few degrees and see if that helps.

Chris - Four years will let you think through the approach you want to take very carefully. And the approach makes all the difference. My suggestion is to create a Word document that sets out your goal for the truck and then gets into the approach. It doesn't have to be nearly as elaborate or detailed as I've done with Dad's truck or Big Blue's Transformation, but if you embed it in your to-be thread on the truck the rest of us can review it and offer suggestions. And there's a LOT of experience on here that could surely help. And, with it embedded your changes show up. Plus, it gives you a check list that can help you focus. And, it gives you a sense of accomplishment when you check things off.

I agree with everything Jim said. But the clunking has me wondering about the pivot arm bushings. If they are worn it will clunk on bumps and when you hit the brakes, and it will be difficult to keep it going straight.

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!! I know you are EXCITED, and I don't blame you. We were all hoping that someone like you would buy it, and to have a member on here be the one is wonderful. I'm looking forward to following its reintrucknation. When do you graduate? IOW, when might this start?

I like it! I'll second the motion, go for it.

Right, pics make a huge difference. This one tells me the guy doesn't really care to sell it. If he needed the money he'd get good pics. But it isn't a bad truck. Not its fault the owner is faulty. (Or, is that Fawlty? )

Bill! You did it! It really does look like it is red/yellow and C106 is said to be black 4-pin connector. Exactly what this one is. It ties the A/C Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch to the A/C High Pressure Cutout Switch, and they collectively tie the A/C on/off switch on the dash to the clutch. But since I'm going to use the 85's controls I don't need that one either. Given all that, the only wires that need to cross the radiator support are the large yellow wire that ultimately will tie the two PDBs together, and the wires from the passenger's side to the driver's side headlights. Yippee! That simplifies things a bunch. THANKS!

I'm glad it helps. Good luck!

Bill - It is a '96 CA-spec harness, the one Mark/Dyn Blin found in Sonoma. Yep, that's the purge solenoid connector, C171. And, the middle one does appear to be C139, which the EVTM says is a 4-pin connector. So I'll bet you are right - it is the charge indicator light. But, I don't know what you mean by "The right hand one is probably a dirty red and is possibly the starter control." Do you mean the red/light blue that pulls in the starter relay? It isn't that as I also have that. Thanks!

Got the new brushes in the mail today, which have now been installed so the alternator is ready to go. And the following notes as I find things: The red/light blue wire in the wiring harness coming from the driver's side in the EFI harness isn't needed. It is essentially the same as the Bullnose one as it comes from the ign switch, through the clutch switch, and then to the start relay for a manual. Fuse Link F, which goes to the brake controller, doesn't need to come from the PDB on the passenger's side. There's a 30a fuse, #21, in the EFI PDB that just serves the brake controller. So for the interim either roll up the wire and keep it on the driver's side and put the ring connector from the fuse link on the to-be smart battery isolator where the big yellow wire will terminate. The only wires that I think needs to come across the radiator support are those to the driver's side headlight and the big yellow wire hot wire between the PDB's. Having said that, there are three connectors and their wires that come from the driver's side and end on the passenger's side that I have not been able to identify. The one with the yellow insulator has a red wire and a green/black/black wire. (Two black stripes.) The one in the middle has a green/brown (orange?) wire. And the one on the right has a brown/yellow/yellow wire. And, I realized today that I almost have twin PDB's. Here's they are, with the EFI one on top in both pics. The EFI one only has one stud, and that's to take the large yellow cable from the other side. And the other PDB has two studs, which allows for a megafuse between them and the alternator goes to one and the battery and big yellow cable to the other.

Do tell!! I've been checking the ad every day waiting to see if/when it went somewhere, hoping an enthusiast would get their hands on it. If it gets chopped up, lowered, and de-XLS'd it will break my heart...lol. I promised the guy I'd not spill the beans. But, I didn't promise that I'd not tell that there are beans to be spilled. He said he'd tell y'all.

I hope somebody buys it and restores it. If it ends up getting all chopped up it would break my heart...lol. For only $2000 I'd buy it myself if it wasn't on the other end of the continent. The advert says "This Item Isn't Available Anymore". A birdie tells me it is going to a good home.

No, I have an Odyssey Extreme 31M PC2150 for the main battery. I had one of those for the aux battery, but then just before I shut the hood I realized it wasn't going to clear.

Wow, it has been a while since I added to the site. But Christian is trying to figure out what he needs to do to work on the brakes of his truck once he can get it out of storage way up in northern Norway, so I added the Dana 60 & 70 section from the shop manual. And, while I was at it I added the General Axle & Driveshaft section as well as the 9" section. (Need to add the 8.8" awa the Sterling sections to make it complete.) Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Rear Axles and the Instructions tabs.

There's no way I know of telling from that pic, but it is supposed to be either a Dana 60 or a Dana 70. So I've put up the whole section on Dana 60 & 70 rear axles from the shop manual. With that and the section on brakes you should be good. Documentation/Driveline/Axles and then the Rear Axles tab plus the Instructions tab, and then finally the Dana 60 & 70 Axles tab.

Yes, I'm using the factory aux battery mount, at least for now although with the EFI air cleaner housing and PDB that may be too much for the driver's fender area. And the battery I have there is an Odyssey Extreme 34-PC1500. And the LWH is 10.86 x 6.77 x 7.88". But that's overall, so if you need different measurements let me know.

Thanks. Check Big Blue's thread in a mo..... I'm wet, but got the measurements.