Gary Lewis

83/on E-F250/350,F(Super Duty) 420 IDI E3TZ 6A366-A PLATE (FLYWHEEL REINFORCING)- 12 9/16" O.D. - - A/T

Rob - You are on the map. As for the ignition, all Bullnose trucks had electronic ignition. But some trucks had computer-controlled electronic ignition. And if you did much to the system the computer put the timing into limp-home mode, meaning it locked the timing to the initial advance. I once bought an '82 351W that set on a used car lot for years because someone did something that made the computer mad and the MPG and HP went away. But by swapping out the computer-controlled system with a standalone DS-II ignition system it ran well. David's thread, in his link, chronicles quite a saga of going from what you are getting now in MPG to over 20. I'm pretty sure you can do the same, but before we get too far please post some pics of the distributor. Just want to be sure of what you have.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? We have a member's map I'd be happy to put you if I had a city and state. On the lack of power, Rob has a good point. If you have a computer it will be controlling the timing. But if the emissions stuff has been removed the computer will have its knickers in a twist and won't advance the timing and you won't have any power. So put your timing light on and see if the timing changes as you rev the engine. It should go up with R's, starting around 1500 to 2000 RPM. If it doesn't then timing is locked by the computer and you'll either need to put everything back, or better yet put a DS-II ignition on it. It'll make a huge difference.

Yeah, Early Broncos don't have much room, either under the hood or between the frame rails. It's actually pretty surprising how poorly they seem to use space, because on the outside they are really pretty big! If you look inside that bracket you'll see a "post" coming down through the middle of it, with a bolt head on the top of the bracket directly above the "post". The post is actually a bellcrank. A rod from the pedal connects to one arm on the bellcrank to turn it, and a rod from another arm goes to the booster. So the bellcrank more-or-less puts a bend in the brake rod. It ends up with the rod(s) moving in slightly different directions than normal, but it works. As far as moving the pin in the pedal, I'm not planning on it. One advantage of reusing the angled bracket is that the linkage from the pedal will be unchanged from what I had. All of the same parts in the same locations. As long as I have clearance at the inner fender and the hood, the only mechanical issues will be attaching the booster to the bracket and making a link so the bellcrank can push the booster. Then plumbing of course. There will be the question of whether I get the right amount of pedal travel with this setup. But it can't be much worse than what I had with the vacuum assist. So I'm going to throw it together first and see what I end up with. If the travel is too bad I may end up moving the pin, or changing the bellcrank arm lengths or something. But I'm going in assuming it'll be good enough as-is. The bell crank makes sense. And it gives you a place to change the travel/mechanical advantage w/o moving the pin on the pedal. But the plan to put it together first and see how it works is a good one.

Ok, Scott asked that I post pics when the ceramic sockets come in. But, do you really think I wouldn't???? As for my communications with Daniel Stern today, I'd said that given the state of the stock market I'm not ready to spend $150 on new headlight shells and bulbs. To which he said: So, my plan as of this 10 seconds in time is to carry on with the transformation w/o buying any headlights. It'll probably be quite some time before I need to install lights, and if I get there before I'm ready to spend any money I have the headlights that came out of Big Blue. But, probably by then the Koito's will be available.

Does it? After seeing the side marker and drl page both reference the same module (DRL-1) I assumed you could use one for both purposes but I haven't drawn out the diagrams to see where they overlap. Hard to flip between the two pages on my phone. If it does and there is no need to buy two, that makes it a lot more tempting. Wrong thread from where you referenced them, but please post a photo of the ceramic sockets when you get them. Really interested in those and if I place an order for the module, might as well get those at the same time. Scott - Let's take this back to the Big Blue's Transformation thread. See you there.....

I've not used clear heat shrink, but I've seen where it has been used and it was effective. However, I think I may have misled you. While I do plan to incorporate the PDB's wiring into the proper page from the EVTM, that's not what I was thinking of laminating. That's because I don't think it could fit in the PDB and be legible. Instead, I am thinking I'll lay out where all the fuses, relay, and diodes are in the PDB, and ID them. Do, the fuse in the upper right corner, which the lid shows simply as Fuse 6, will be shown as the Start Fuse. That I think I can laminate and either place in the PDB or, hopefully, glue to the inside of the PDB's lid.

I just bought some ceramic headlight sockets from Daniel Stern and asked him what the latest in lighting is for our trucks. Here's his response, which is an update to the first post in this thread:

OK, so that was the plan. But plans can change. Or in this case, minds can change. I decided to go with a Chevy Astro booster and master cylinder. Or actually it ended up being a '95 GMC Safari with AWD and front disk / rear drum brakes. I decided that have something more the size and weight of the Bronco was a better choice than the newer parts out of a 1 ton truck. And having the boost unit and master from the same vehicle seemed like it would simplify things too. The booster and master came in the mail yesterday, so today I pulled the old booster and master cylinder out and stuck the new one more-or-less in place to see what I was up against. I'm up against a lot if I try to put it in like I show here! The boost unit has 4 studs that don't look like they'll play well with the firewall, the accumulator on the boost unit wants to be right where the throttle linkage is, and the master cylinder hits the oil fill cap. You can see all of that in the pictures below. After doing that and washing up I thought about putting the new booster and master on the angled bracket that I had with the vacuum system. That will take care of all of those problems. It will put the master pretty close to the inner fender, but I think it'll clear. So I'll check that out more completely another day. One other potential interference is the reservoirs on top of the master might hit the hood. Eyeballing it I think it'll clear, but if not I think I can use a different reservoir on this master that will sit lower. Anyway, here is the aftermarket vacuum system that came out, on the angled bracket that I might reuse. Here is the new hydroboost and master after unboxing. And here a few showing how it doesn't want to just go in quietly. More to come (eventually)... Bob - It does look like you'll need the angled bracket. (I had no idea the EB's were that tight under the hood!) But what, if anything, does that do to the linkage to the brake pedal? And do you need to relo the pin in the pedal?

Well done! Yes, someone was looking for those. Cory?

Well done, Scott. Similar to your diode symbols on the tape, I've been considering how to mark various things I'm doing. As previously said, I hope to be able to figure out how to incorporate my PDB wiring diagram into the EVTM's page to make it obvious. But I'm also trying to think of how to mark components. And two thoughts just came to mind when looking at what you've done: In the case of something like your diodes, I have a label printer and I could print a label that either went all the way around the thing or three labels that went where you have paint. And then cover that with clear heat shrink. For the PDB, maybe create a diagram that replicates the layout of the fuses, relays, and diodes and identify each one, then print that out and laminate it. Cut that out and place it inside the PDB. Thoughts?

Congrat's!!! By the way, those burled wood bezels are some of the best I've seen - save for the extra hole left of the steering column. Must have either been parked inside or come from somewhere that doesn't have a lot of UV.

Christopher - It isn't necessary to have the calibration code or even the #'s off the carb in order to get the right kit. The 2150 kits are pretty universal and usually come with multiple gaskets, so if you are careful and match gaskets up you should be fine. But, if this is your first rebuild you may be better off buying a rebuilt carb. Even though the 2150 is one of the easier carbs to work on, if you mess it up you could be stuck. I don't have a recommended vendor, but in doing some searching on here, others have recommended: Hite Parts in Ohio Rock Auto And you are right about the EGR gaskets. Those can be a problem areas, as can the spacer plate itself since they are a known problem.

Not a bad price - if they work. About half of the horns I've tested don't work. Caveat emptor.

Yes, too bad about the rust. Don't think I'd pay that much for one with that much cancer.

85/86 F150/350 with Super Cooling or A/C or 85/86 U (Bronco) with A/C. Not sure why it fits a pickup with both but only A/C on a Bronco.

83/on F250/350 - - diesel - all 8 420 E3TZ 9E799-B

Not for our trucks: 83/84 R 4 cyl 134 ci (2.2L) E3TZ 8678-C #E37A-8B604-AB

Not a bad price for a full air cleaner assembly.

The advert appears to have a typo. At the top it says it is an E3TZ 18552-B and at the bottom it says it is an E3TZ 18518-B. (Notice there ais no "-" between the prefix and generic part number as in spite of what everyone does, the MPC doesn't do it that way.) There is no 18518, but there are 18552's: 83 F-U100/350 E3TZ 18552-B

80/86 F—U100/350 E1TZ 17255—B w/o trip odometer-85 MPH/130 KPH

80/86 F-U150/350 - - 4/W/Dw/ratio adapter-w/factory installed speed control 6&8 All E0TZ 9A820-A Lower-#E0TA-AA-60" long

For several NP208's, but only "From 1/19/82". Does not fit those produced earlier than that.

Not a bad price, but the shipping is awful. Just sent a box MUCH bigger and heavier than what that will take for $40 with insurance for $250.