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Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
 
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Yep. Why I'm asking around.
Did the other 6 bearings... they're hovering around 0.0020 or so like #1. Too bad the next size I can get is 0.0100" under... The manual mentions 0.001" and 0.002" undersize bearings, but that doesn't seem to be a currently stocked item.  Edit: sealed power seems to make them... at $53 per set at rockauto. Nobody else makes that increment. Will check ebay... it can't be that big of an issue if only the "premium" brand makes them?
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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No change. A picture is worth a thousand words:
 Looks like I'm ordering bearings and waiting a week, unless I find a similar price somewhere closer. Napa had them online for cheaper... out of stock. 
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Administrator
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I know you were chomping at the bit to get it together, but in the long run I think you'll be happy that you took the time to get the right bearings. It is the right thing to do.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Administrator
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Administrator
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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 Close enough? Plan will be to shorten them with a tubing cutter. At $0.99 a pop I'm willing to try.
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Administrator
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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This post was updated on .
Yes I did... along with some other small things I didn't post about (or at least post pictures of):
First, there's been a long-existing issue with the heater supply nipple (which is not a part I can buy a replacement for it seems); mine was rusted with a couple of holes (covered by the hose, but still not great). Several months ago I tried to fix it by flame soldering, but I couldn't get the solder to wet (flux burnt before the steel would wet). I tried again, and it was another failure, but learning a lesson from the carb heat tubes, I tried my big 100W soldering iron (made for stained glass work?), which made short work of such (no burnt flux issues). Before:  After (solder bead filed down):  Dunno if it will hold... If I could get a replacement, I'd just replace it and be done. But the only nipples I've found are directly pressed into the "leaded gas" version of the T-stat housing... mine threads into the T-stat housing (pipe thread) with a pipe-threaded inlet for the ECU's temp sensor. In hindsight, I probably could/can make a replacement out of some pipe fittings and a brass nipple... but for the sake of not being a hilljack I'd rather not (not that's I'm not above using pipe fittings on engines) --- Valve work (and questions): New valve seals installed:  Since I have a 1984 Head (and the manual on the site is for the newly revised 1985 head), I have a couple of questions: Since I have have shouldered rocker studs with one nut per stud, there is no lash adjustment, correct? Just torque the nuts to spec?The manual mentioned installing the closed side of the spring towards the head... but both the intake and exhaust springs were as far as I could tell symmetrical (not "beehive" springs or the like). Was such another 1985 head design change, or did I miss something that I need to re-check my heads for?Have more pics (of various part painting results), but having lost image issues, so I'll post that as a reply to this.
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Painting.
My first step a couple weeks ago was to paint the tins... which was off to an OK start until the birds decided to give me some white accents on the lifter cover:  (they also nailed my hand later that day... what did I do??? )
Luckily the paint had already cured, so I was able to wash it off. The oil pan has been painted the same color. There were some painting defects with the valve cover, which was made worse by a badly failed attempt at accent painting with a paint marker:  Due to such, I repainted it yesterday, and painted the accents with a brush to a better (but still lackluster) result:  What it will look like on the head:  As for the block and heads, more prep was obviously needed (masking), so here's my solution I used:   Painted up:   Today I decided to paint the cast lettering/symbols on the block like an old piece of machinery, because I had the white paint out and thought it might look cool:   (yes that's an incomplete casting number with no decade. Moldmaker's goof?) Look good? I wasn't feeling the stock gray on the tins, and I originally was going for red, but that would look too much like a ch*vy... not that I have a beef with such (my parents have driven them for decades with decent luck), but it wouldn't be right.
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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From what I read, the 300 has had three different rocker setups. The original was studs with no shoulder (and had adjustable valve lash), which at some point became the shouldered studs like I have (and haven't found a definitive answer on). For the 1985 model year, they went to pedestals and bolts, which is what the '85 FSM describes.
Having the 81 version would be helpful here... I've read some places saying that you just torque the nuts, and some saying that the nuts are supposed to be locknuts and that the lash is adjusted that way. It seems like the former is the case (since hydraulic lifters are supposed to take the adjustment out anyway?)... but "seems" is a dangerous word. --- The issue with the valve cover is that it's a shallow stamping. Raised letters in castings and molded plastic paint a lot better due to the sharp edges, such as when I red lettered the intake on my '95 ranger:  The gradual sweeping sides of the stamped logo are harder to follow are require calligraphy to match... which my paint and brush were not allowing (too thick?)... not was the paint marker before (too thin, turned out blotchy). The only other way I could try is some sort of rubber stamp transfer; sanding the paint revealed the logo well, so maybe a surface-to-surface process would work better? It's purely for fun at this point... It's not really a show truck (not without a crapload of interior and body work at least); I just wanted to see what I could and couldn't get away with. Was hoping it would turn out like the ranger... and with some more detail corrections, maybe it could. The ranger's intake took two or three touchups and recoats to get it to work; but that was with a red paint marker on black ABS plastic; a different situation indeed.
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT
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