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Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

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Gary Lewis

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

There is something wrong if the belts are squealing. But Dad used to take a round file or rasp, lay it in the pulley, and whack it with a mallet. That leaves little teeth in the pulley and stops the noise - and wears the belt.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

This post was updated on .

Once they start squealing the pulleys are glazed.

Belt dressing is a temporary band aid.

Thoroughly clean the sheaves* and rub them down with some 80 grit.
Smacking a rattail file is just going to destroy the bearings.

Is the battery low, or ready for replacement?
The alternator is kicking in for a reason.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ratdude747

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

The battery is good as far as I know. It's a relatively new Valuepower battery (a couple years old, OEM being Johnson Controls like all Walmart batteries). I charged it while I was installing the engine yesterday. Fully charged when it went in.

I'll see about re-sanding the pulleys... they are a bit glazed, and idiot here spaced on fixing that while it was all apart (probably because I had fixed the issue previously, and assumed no service was needed).

This is only an issue when starting up... once I've reved it a couple times it goes away... but so was the case the last time (and on a very cold winter day I was stranded at a truck stop over it causing a dead battery; not fun!).

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

I was only asking, because I try to find the cause.
If the battery is not all sulphated and was charged, the alternator shouldn't be working hard.
Of course once the engine starts it will try to take that 12.6 up to 14.35... or whatever your regulator set point is.

Don't beat yourself up.
You're on a roll, keep it going!

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ratdude747

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Took a look... glazed. Badly. DOH!

Shot some belt dressing on there as a test/temporary fix... briefly squeaked, then no more. Restarted several times without a slip.

While I was underneath, I saw what might be a slow leak at the water pump to lower rad hose... the one I've been fighting with (and got me swimming in coolant last night). Since there was a tiny puddle underneath, my prior theory of residual coolant leakage settling there seems unlikely. Seems like both radiator hoses are seeping/slow leaking at the engine connections... what to do? Hose clamps are as tight as I dare go.

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

Hard to say.

I've known that hoses sometimes 'take a set' after a few heat/pressure cycles and need re-tightened.
But I've never had a real problem with hoses leaking.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ratdude747

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

In reply to this post by ratdude747

Broke the glaze after another drive (this one was a lot longer). No sqeak at the moment (it did squeak today), but l won't know until I go to work tomorrow morning.

MPG wise, if my memory is correct on the mileage when I fueled it on the first trip, I'm getting 16-17MPG... much better and more what the truck should be getting. Once it breaks in (and I can resume normal driving habits), maybe it will improve?

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).

Gary Lewis

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

Excellent! Things are coming together!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ratdude747

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Still had some startup belt noise, so I went a shade tighter on the alternator. I still get a brief chirp when it first starts (1 second or less), but no more prolonged squeaking.

Fueled again, this time only 10MPG... Not sure if my break-in driving habits or the slow-ish country roads I've been driving are to blame... or long drive-thru lines at lunch? She's drinking gas. But until I'm out of break-in and I can drive it normally, I don't want to call it.

Other than intermittent leaks at the radiator hose clamps, no issues to report. One buddy of mine suggested spring clamps to replace the existing screw clamps; but I'm not quite ready to drain the coolant yet again if I can get it to stop leaking (keep having to crank down the clamps it seems). I'm running "new" hoses, new water pump, "new" thermostat housing, and the original radiator (which I cleaned/flushed out while the engine was pulled).

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).

Gary Lewis

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

That's not bad MPG for break-in and idling in drive-thru's. When you can get it out on the road I'll bet it comes up to 15 or more pretty quickly.

On the hose clamps, can you slip another clamp on and run two?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ratdude747

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Made it past 500 miles.

Lifter cover leaking again... I really don't know here. Not a terrible leak, but still not great for a new engine. Is there a trick to getting cork to seal to a rough cast surface like such?

Misc. coolant leaks... t-stat been the worst lately. Did some work (re-torqued to 25 ft-lbs), but as I'm typing this I realized I never checked again.

Hoses doing better... had to keep tightening hose clamps but fingers crossed, I think I might have gotten it.

How soon should I change the oil/filter? Plan was to go to full sythetic for the first oil change... Right now it still has the mix of dino oil, ZDDP additive, and assembly lube used for assembly, priming, and break in.

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

How are your rings seating?
Are the oil leaks due to excessive blow by?
What do your compression numbers look like?

I wouldn't change anything (except maybe the filter) until I saw even(ish) and good compression numbers in all cylinders.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ratdude747

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Don't know. Haven't bothered with a compression test.

No blow by as far as I can tell... oil vent tube to the intake is dry. This was a leak that I saw while it was on the stand (day after I primed the engine). I tighened the lifter cover bolt nearest the leak and that fixed it for a bit. Super slow leak though... cleaned it up, no oil on the ground two days later. Maybe it fixed itself (settled)?

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

Lots of times things have to 'marry' into place.
Like the rings, or cam.

Just check that you have decent compression across the board before ditching the break in oil.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ratdude747

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

I know... which is why I'm asking.

Cam and lifters were reused... as was the entire valvetrain other than the valve seals. Every part down to the rocker arm pivots, nuts, and valve keepers returned to the location they came from.

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

Yup
But you've got new bores, rings, pistons and cam bearings.
All this has to settle into place, and it isn't likely to on fully synthetic oil.

Check.
Like I said above about machining to tolerance.
If it's good go ahead.

If not wait.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

Agree. No reason to hurry to synthetic. Make sure everything is run in and mated.

On the cork gasket, you may need some kind of sealer. BUT, RTV makes a gasket slip and slide badly. So if you are going to use RTV then you should only snug the bolts up lightly, let the RTV set up over night, and then torque it.

But another type of sealer might be better. There are lots of them, like The Right Stuff. Or even Indian Head. TRS replaces the gasket. Indian Head glues the gasket to the surfaces.

Maybe others have suggestions?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

1986F150Six

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

In reply to this post by ratdude747

ratdude747 wrote

Made it past 500 miles.

Lifter cover leaking again... I really don't know here. Not a terrible leak, but still not great for a new engine. Is there a trick to getting cork to seal to a rough cast surface like such?

The pushrod cover plate is quite long on the 4.9L/300 engine and can be tweaked over its lifespan. An after market aluminum one [thicker/stronger] is the absolute best solution. The one on my truck leaked and even with attempting to straighten, it still leaked. I purchased a new one and applied a tacky cement to the cover and placed the gasket [I used rubber, but cork is fine as that is what Ford used] on the cover, flipped the cover so the gasket was "down" on a flat surface and placed a weight on top. This was allowed to set overnight. The next day, the cover was installed.

By the way, removing the distributor cap, rotor and ignition coil makes this job easier.

The leak disappeared!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-9L-300-CID-Ford-Lifter-Pushrod-Side-Covers-Brand-New/262298060246?hash=item3d122ec5d6:g:iScAAOxyzGlQ5eTb

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-4-9L-300-CID-Lifter-Pushrod-Side-Cover/142332067702?hash=item2123a6ff76:g:2FUAAOSwk5FUv~HW

ratdude747

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk

Did a compression test... 125 PSI everywhere once cooled down (dry). When warm I was seeing 130-135 PSI... But after cylinders 4-6 showed a consistent 125, I retested 1-3 and also got 125.

Plugs:

Looks like no oil change and I get to go back to break in driving... Unless I busted it again

Thoughts?

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).

Gary Lewis

Re: Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

Administrator

Keep driving it to break it in. I don't see anything wrong with the plugs.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

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