Fuel Injection upgrade

Well no email still from Jacky Jones Ford also known as OEM Ford Parts.  Their website doesnt list a phone number just a message form to contact them.  I punched their address in on google and found their phone number as well as reviews.  Seems like a few people had the same issues as this with no contact and no parts shipped or received.  But they arent recent one was from earlier this year and the rest were from 3 and 4 years ago.

Im going to give the number a call tomorrow at 8am when they are listed as being open and will call multiple times till I get a hold of a person to find out what is going on with this order and my alternator bracket.  I may end up still calling my bank and having them reverse the charge as fraudulent as they havent shipped the part out and its going working on being 2 months this month with no part that I paid for.

I did punch in the part number to see if there was any other listing to just buy from right now and just cancel that order and only hits I got was OEM Ford Parts and a bunch of other dealerships.  One name stood out Tasca Ford which doesnt give a phone number on their site either but I sent them a message if they had the part and if it would ship asap.  I might try calling up the local Ford dealership tomorrow and giving them the part number that we use at work and see if they can possibly locate me the bracket and just ship it to the shop.

Im starting to get a bit fed up with this cause if I had this bracket I could mock up the 7" ear to ear 1G alternator I have see how it fits and then finalize my decision on which 3G to get.  Seems like I am still leaning towards the 1990 - 1993 Taurus 3.8L 3G alternator.  I can get a brand new Remy or AC Delco for $162.84 from Rock Auto with shipping and tax and no core charge.

At least if I did that I could continue on with seeing what thread pitch the alternator is, retaping or possibly drilling out and using helicoil for steel threads to reuse the OE bolt with its serrated washer edge.  At least more progress while waiting on my distributor and could start figuring out charge cable and hook up of the 3G to prep it for installation in the truck.

~Update~

Well I went to get the payment information so I can call up tomorrow and file a fraud charge on said item tomorrow and wouldnt you know I checked my bank, I checked paypal credit, and I checked my credit card, there is not one charge for $33.73 from may 21, 2022 to today so I never had the money taken out for the part but will have to keep up on it so tomorrow I will call up the local dealership see if they can get me the D9UZ-10145-A which should be for my 302 with a 40 - 60 Amp alternator which should work with the 3G upgrade and if they can get it for me under $30 I will just go ahead and order it from the local dealership.  Otherwise I guess I will wait for Tasca to respond to my email but I dont think I will deal with them because it seems they are setup the same way as OEM and the others that are just a online portal to sell parts that they dont possibly physically have with no phone number to contact them on their site just a online contact form.

Good luck!  But I've had great luck using the online form to the Ford dealerships.  They've always gotten right back and shipped quickly.

Rusty, I have had excellent results with AutoNation Ford https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/ 
You might try them. They were formerly Tousley Ford.

Went through a royal PITA with the battery tray for the 2009 Flex, Ford's illustrations show only the mid 2009 and up parts and even with the VIN it didn't get caught. Back and forth messages with the parts manager and got it resolved, wrong parts returned for full credit.

Good luck with it!

Tasca Ford replied to me this morning, they said there is a national back order on that alternator bracket and there is no sign of when they will come back into stock.

I havent called the local dealership but will check with them and see if they can get me one locally.  Otherwise I will be forced to take the original alternator bracket and modify it even though I really want to modify a new one and keep the original put up.

What specific application do you need it from? My favorite salvage yard owner is in Ft. Lauderdale FL right now with his granddaughter at the AAU Karate championships. He might have something.

85lebaront2 wrote

What specific application do you need it from? My favorite salvage yard owner is in Ft. Lauderdale FL right now with his granddaughter at the AAU Karate championships. He might have something.

One im looking for is a new D9UZ-10145-A alternator bracket that is supposed to fit all Ford Trucks 80 - 85 with 40A or 60A alternators.

I didnt get to call up the local dealership today as I got side tracked on a project at work.  I think I might be able to get one locally if not I might just take and take my original one hammer it flat and modify it and then buy the D9UZ-10145-A to put up.

Forgive me if I missed it in all the responses, but does your truck have duel fuel tanks?  I was looking at the instructions for the sniper stealth and it appears to use a fuel pressure regulator that has a return rail.  How are you going to address fuel return with duel tanks?

Also, have you considered using a Delco 10SI or a CS130 as a replacement alternator?  I have a 120 amp cs130 small case on my 85 and it works great!  The change over took all of a half hour.  Hell, it took longer to get the old unit off than getting the CS130 on! LOL!!!

Jake Papageorge wrote

Forgive me if I missed it in all the responses, but does your truck have duel fuel tanks?  I was looking at the instructions for the sniper stealth and it appears to use a fuel pressure regulator that has a return rail.  How are you going to address fuel return with duel tanks?

Also, have you considered using a Delco 10SI or a CS130 as a replacement alternator?  I have a 120 amp cs130 small case on my 85 and it works great!  The change over took all of a half hour.  Hell, it took longer to get the old unit off than getting the CS130 on! LOL!!!

No, I have a flareside with a single 16 gallon saddle tank.  I have played around with the thought of adding a auxiliary aft tank but just couldnt figure out how I would want to go about setting it up.  For example fueling was my first issue, how do I fuel the aft tank.  I could get another fuel tank door and cut the fiberglass fender and graft it on but for me it just looks odd and I cant bring myself to cut a hard to find fiberglass fender.  Then there is BedWood.com where I will be getting the bed wood for my truck, they have a kit that hinges an entire board that you can lift up and access a under the bed filler.  This would be a great idea but then there is the problem of if I have something in the bed I cant lift the whole plank up to access the filler.  The second issue I had was plumbing, I could use a switching valve and set it up like factory but then that requires trying to locate a heat only climate panel with the dual tank switch and I bought a NOS heat only climate panel a few years back and installed it.  One idea I had was plumbing the auxiliary aft tank with a toggle switch under the dash that would use a in tank pump to transfer fuel from the auxiliary aft tank to the primary saddle tank which feeds the engine.  But then there were issues with this, how do I ensure there is an automatic shut off to prevent the aft pump over filling the saddle tank.

I pretty much ruled adding an auxiliary tank out on my truck but I have installed numerous snipers at work with dual tanks that were functional.  On GM applications such as the ever popular square body trucks, I get an EFI switching valve with the 7 pin terminal I believe it is and throw a pair of Walbro 255 LPH pumps in the tank.  It essentially works like the late model setup just instead of operating on TBI pressures it is now operating on EFI pressures.  The new GM switching valves you buy are EFI rated to 70 PSI so it would be fine setting up like this.  For Ford, I havent done one but the other guy at the shop did one on a I think it was a '85 F150 with a I6 and a 2V feed back carb with a TFI distributor.  It had dual tanks and I believe they utilized the OE switching valve but they mounted the EFI pump that mounts on the frame on that one.  I would have bought the later model tanks with the EFI senders and put the pump in the tank.

That is what I will be doing with my truck, an '85 - '86 16 gallon saddle tank with the OE style sender with the low pressure lift pump tossed for a Walbro 255 LPH high pressure pump.  I also have plans to break some metal to install in the bottom of the saddle tank to create baffling to slow the fuel down and try and keep as much of it in the sump as possible so I can run my tank down to E and not worry about fuel slosh causing performance issues at 1/2 a tank.  I also have a Corvette fuel filter with built in 60 psi pressure regulator.  I will be mounting this on the frame in front of the saddle tank so the return line will run from the filter back to the tank.  I may custom bend some hardlines in 3/8" stainless to keep the rubber hose length short but I think running rubber from sender to the filter would be best.  The frame how ever up to the engine I found Inline Tube has a 3/8" long wheelbase hardline in stainless steel, it should be the same from the engine back to about where the cab door is which is where I will be cutting the line off and I will rent a quick release flare tool to flare the end in a male quick release so the Corvette filter will snap into the hardline.  I will AN flare the end up by the engine and make a AN hose to go from the hardline on the frame to the hardline I bent for my engine itself.

The Sniper 4150 Stealth does not have a fuel pressure regulator unlike the standard Sniper, the two fittings on the Sniper 4150 Stealth are pressure feed lines for the two front and two rear injectors.  I ended up taking the supplied #6 AN fuel lines off and went with short stubbier ones so I could mount the DS II coil in the OE location on the intake manifold.  I wanted to do all hardlines directly to these stubby #6 AN fittings but I could not get a bend tight enough to clear the DS II coil so I ended up using the supplied #6 black Tee to get the clearance I needed.  But everything you see hardline wise is in 3/8" stainless steel tripled annealed from Inline tube that I got as bulk coiled tubing.  It is also all AN flared and is all pressure lines.  I also have the hardline clamped to the rear fuel pump bolt with a 3/8" insulated zinc plated steel clamp.  I bent the hardline at a 90* to hopefully clear under the power steering pump and I placed another #6 AN flare with tube sleeve and nut.  This would be where my male #6 AN hose end will screw into and ill be using hopefully a short piece of Earls Vapor Guard EFI hose.

Below are some close ups of the 3/8" stainless steel hardline I bent for the engine as I didnt want rubber fuel hose like so many do.



Close up of the routing of the hardline around the Distributor and down towards the fuel pump mount.


Close up of the mounting of the hardline to the rear fuel pump bolt and the 90* bend under the power steering pump.  Currently there is a #6 pressure port fitting threaded in with a hose end threaded onto it to not lose it.  That will be a hose with a male #6 hose end straight to the hardline.  The fuel pressure port I am not sure I may use it as an adapter on the frame hardline at the rubber hose or I may have it back by the fuel pressure regulator/filter.


Initially I will use a mechanical pressure gauge to keep tabs on the fuel pressure if there is a problem.  If I can get Dakota Digital to release their RTX Retro cluster series for our trucks like they did for the previous gen Ford trucks, I will be installing a fuel pressure sensor and buying a pressure module from Dakota Digital so I can view fuel pressure in the dash cluster as well as wire up a warning if the fuel pressure goes outside of normal specs of 55 - 65 psi.

On the alternator I will be going with 3G, my issue is finalizing which way to go.  I hope that the 3G regulators like my NOS Motorcraft one wont care if its on a 95A or a 130A alternator but I am looking at the 130A alternator mainly due to its extra cooling and potential to put more amps out at lower speeds.  Realistically 95A is what I should probably go with since I am running a single V belt but with my NOS Motorcraft regulator having a 10 second ramp up for the soft start function I should be fine with a single V belt on a 130A alternator long as I dont push the output past 95 amps which I dont think I would unless I throw four more 100W KC halogen auxiliary lights on a rollbar like I am wanting to do.  KC now how ever has their Daylighters with LED bulbs now which I probably would go with if I go that route.

Been on the hunt for air cleaners for a while now.  Was first looking at the dual snorkel Mustang air filters but couldnt swing the prices they go for.  So I been looking at the 5.8L HO air cleaners but havent found a reasonably priced one.

So now I am back to looking at the dual snorkel Mustang air cleaner with the hopes that I might be able to retain the breather on the driver side with some tweaking.  Found one for sale without lid for $75 but the guy wont ship it, trying to convince him to ship.  If not I got another three on ebay that I am keeping an eye on for the better part of a year, one of them was priced at $600 but is now down to $275 with free shipping which I feel is still too high.  There are a couple I found that are priced at $135 and $150 after shipping.

Looks like I will be just going with the dual snorkel and modifying my spare plastic duct to fit on the driver side.  Also means I will be hunting down a 1985 Mustang Saleen air cleaner lid that is in chrome since I know polishing the aluminum would require a lot of up keep.

Aside from that I am trying to find the difference between the 1980 - 1985 302 dipstick tubes and the 86 - 88 dipstick tubes and if they are interchangeable.

Rusty - Is this sorta what you are looking for?  If so, it is yours for the shipping cost.  And I'll remove the snorkels to keep the shipping cost down.

Gary Lewis wrote

Rusty - Is this sorta what you are looking for?  If so, it is yours for the shipping cost.  And I'll remove the snorkels to keep the shipping cost down.

That looks like it, one I'm looking at is the '83 - '85 which is supposed to be the 17" diameter model not the '82 which was 15" diameter.

Sorry, but this one is 15 1/2".  

Gary Lewis wrote

Sorry, but this one is 15 1/2".  

Ah ok, that is the '82 dual snorkel one.  I probably could use it, but in my reading I been doing the 15" has a smaller not just diameter but also height air filter than the '83-'85 filter that is 17".

For a '82 Mustang 5.0 the part number I found was a Fram one for the air filter CA351.  It has the following dimensions.

Inside Diameter : 9.020"
Outside Diameter : 10.765"
Height : 2.630"

For a '83-85 Mustang 5.0 the part number I found was a Fram one for the air filter CA324A.  It has the following dimensions.

Inside Diameter : 11.190"
Outside Diameter : 12.656"
Height : 2.800"

I probably would be fine with the smaller '82 air filter but if I can find me a '83-'85 model I think it would be better for my Sniper and its 800+ cfm rating even though I read also that the dual snorkel mustang air cleaner assemblies flowed almost 600 cfm.

I have to put this out there for anyone following this build.

As you would know I have a MotoRad Fail-Safe thermostat in my build in 195*F rating.  I saw a post on social media today about a guy with a 180*F version failing in the open position on him just by running at normal operating temperatures of between 200* and 210*.  I decided to look online and saw a wealth of people from Toyota forums to dodge forums to jeep forums to bronco forums all talking about this thermostat and to not use it and what junk it is.  So, disclaimer I will not be running this thermostat anymore and in fact have two on order from rock auto to use in its place.

As many know I have the GMB 125-1230P High Performance water pump that is high volume/pressure, states the impeller design increases pump pressure by up to 300% and maximum sized and contoured passages improve coolant velocity increasing flow from idle throughout the rpm range.  Also states it reduces engine temperature by 15-30 degrees.  I got it because it was the only aluminum water pump which is the right material for a '82 year model truck.  It makes no mention on rock auto or summits site about needing a high flow thermostat and I contacted GMB last year with no reply on that question.  I did make a post over on the other forum asking what other people think in this regard.

For now, I have a standard OE Motorcraft RT1139 192*F thermostat on order along with a Heavy Duty Stant 45359 Superstat 195*F.  I also have a pack of ten Gates self-adhesive thermostat housing gaskets which I prefer on order as well.  Part of me is torn on which thermostat to use as Ive always had great luck with the Superstat and never had a failure but on the other hand I do like the idea of running a OE Motorcraft as well.  In the end it all depends on what people think and if they believe I should really be running a high dollar special order high flow thermostat to avoid cooling system issues.

I have yet to receive a response from GMP on my email inquiring about if they recommend a high flow thermostat or not for their high flow GMP water pump that I have.  I did get an email response from Summit and they informed me that they recommend a high flow thermostat for any high flow water pump.

So, I ordered a 330-195 RobertShaw high flow thermostat from Summit under the Flow Kooler brand.  Stewart has the same 330-195 RobertShaw thermostat but wasn't about to pay nearly $5 more for the same thermostat with unstated modifications done by Stewart.

Below however is a photo comparing the OE Motorcraft 195* thermostat part number RT1139 on the left, the Stant SuperStat part number 45359 in the middle and the RobertShaw 330-195 on the right.

The Motorcraft thermostat has a jiggle valve vent to ease air bleeding of the cooling system.  The Stant thermostat has no vent.  The RobertShaw thermostat has a small V cut in the sealing lip to serve as a air bleed at the extreme edge of the thermostat.  Have to make sure when you install this thermostat the bleed is at the 12 o'clock position.

The Motorcraft thermostat as well as the Stant thermostat both have roughly a 1" opening while the RobertShaw thermostat has roughly a 1 1/2" opening.  So, I believe the GMP high flow water pump used in conjunction with the RobertShaw 195* thermostat along with the Cold-Case aluminum 2 row radiator and my 18" 7-bladed Flex-A-Lite flex fan all should work together nicely and should ensure my engine will hover around 195 - 200 degrees on a hot day.  Many people that run the RobertShaw balanced thermostat like I have swear up and down that their mechanical temp gauges stay no more than 5 to 10 degrees away from the set point of the thermostat.

That's good to know!  Thanks for the pics and the info.  

Gary Lewis wrote

That's good to know!  Thanks for the pics and the info.  

No problem, I know this would help lots of people make a decision.  I was looking to see the differences myself and couldn't find much online in the way of dimensions.

On the flip side I did find a lot of back and forth among people online about too much flow being good/bad depending on what side of the fence you are on.  Truth of the matter is the whole point of a thermostat is to regulate minimum temperature while majority of people arguing good/bad of too much flow think the thermostat is to regulate temperature as a whole.  I see so many people that think 210 - 220 is overheating for a 195 thermostat as they believe the 195 is the set point for the thermostat to maintain which it isn't.

What benefits the RobertShaw design is the balance sleeve that makes it a very precise thermostat that maintains the minimum temperature better than other brands that are built upon the OE design.

Below is a few photos I found from my reading.

First is a RobertShaw style balanced thermostat taken apart.



What makes the RobertShaw a balanced Thermostat is the Poppet seals on the rim against the Flange/Pylon.  The bottom of the FLange/Pylon prevents flow of coolant from with in the Poppet bypassing the seal.  The coolant can flow through the holes in the bottom of the Poppet balancing coolant pressure on both sides of the poppet which is what moves to open and close the thermostat off.  This equalized pressure ensures the thermostat will open properly at temperature and not be delayed or forced closed by water pressure.

Image below shows a RobertShaw thermostat in the open position.


Going to be fun pulling the engine out of the garage to take the storage bag off just long enough to pull the thermostat off and swap out the thermostat.  I really cant do anything else unless I pull the passenger side header off and throw it in the box with the driverside to prep it for ceramic coating which ever way I go.

Went ahead and pulled the Fail-Safe thermostat out of the engine and threw in the RobertShaw high flow thermostat which was a breeze to install with the Gates self-adhesive thermostat housing gasket over the Fel-Pro one I had that didn't have the adhesive on it.

I thought about pulling the driver side header off and box it up to prep it for shipping out for ceramic coating, but I still have yet to hear back on my question about the $100+ shipping charge which is way too much in my book for shipping shorty headers to Oklahoma City, Ok.  I am seriously just contemplating painting them myself with header paint and say screw it on the ceramic coating.  I haven't even gotten a reply from Cradin Industries on my last email last year asking if they could check my new headers over for small pin hole leaks when they remove the paint and fix any leaks if present.

I also have yet to get my D.U.I. distributor and I emailed them July 1 and they told me they hope to have the parts in 3 weeks but yet it's now August 20 and still nothing.  Guess I am going to have to email them again and hope they are mature enough to not screw up the timing on the distributor for bugging them for the distributor I already paid for earlier this year.

Other than that, I can't do anything really.  Everything is done outside of hunting down a air cleaner to replace the one I have which I am at the point of just buying an open element air cleaner and say screw the cold air ducting.  Im also in need of purchasing crosslink SLX wire so I can start wiring up my auxiliary fuse/relay box as well as starting to buy up the Delphi connectors so I can start making the harnesses up.  I also still need to pick up the stainless-steel fuel line from Inline Tube as well as the fuel tank from Spectre for an 85/86 truck and make the final decision if I pull the trigger on one of the super overpriced NOS 85/86 sending units or buy a replacement sender.  Then it's just getting the Walbro 255lph in tank fuel pump and the Flowmaster stainless steel Y pipe and I will have everything I need to do the installation.

Sounds like you are getting close.  It has been a long journey, but it will have been worth it.  

Gary Lewis wrote

Sounds like you are getting close.  It has been a long journey, but it will have been worth it.  

I am, only thing I am a little wary about is the TPS connector on my sniper.  The wire is pulled awfully taunt over the top of the connector and I am afraid that is a failure point just waiting to happen.  I even went to holley's website and looked at their stock photo for the 4150 sniper stealth and they all show the same taunt wire which isnt a fluke on mine but apparently is common for this type.

Part of me wants to email Holley and ask them if this is normal cause the wire being that taunt I am concerned about the connector failing.  On the other hand no one is talking about TPS connector failures but injector connectors coming unplugged.  So maybe its not worth it to me to worry about that right now.  I also could always depin the connector clip the wires and use a pigtail to make the wires a little longer if it did ever fail on me.

Aside from that, I got a email from Jet-Hot and their answer to the shipping question was that its a standard shipping fee applied to all headers.  I guess they do that so it will cover round trip shipping for all but at the same time it screws those of us with smaller lighter headers shipping a shorter distance than thoses shipping larger heavier headers across the country.