Rembrant

Having the use of the shop and tools at my work is a big benefit for me. Since I normally do everything by myself, I'll take whatever mechanical advantage I can get. What I didn't show there was that the hanging brackets for the generator were tweaked inwards a little bit so the generator did not want to easily slide into place. I cut a couple 2x4's to fit between the generator and the vertical part of the forks so I could push the thing and not have it slide on the forks. Worked like a charm.

On my 1984 302, that hole in the intake was for a vacuum operated valve that opened/closed the exhaust crossover in the intake. It was not attached to the choke on my truck. Maybe the 351 had a different set-up? I'm just throwing it out there. That was my stock Ford intake though...I'm running a Performer 289 intake now and it didn't even have that hole (and I have my crossover blocked anyway). It was an interesting little two-door valve, see below. On the fuel line, mine is all 5/16". I re-used the original hard line that went from the pump to the carb, but cut it off just short of the distributor and flared the end of it slightly. I installed two sections of 5/16" hose with my fuel filter in between, and double clamped the barb. Might not be the sexiest looking thing in the world, but it's easy to access and service when needed.

Looks great! Can’t wait to get some myself!

Oh, and can somebody tell me what tool is needed to release those fuel line fittings on the sending unit?

So I spent all day Saturday working on my little Onan generator and changed out the rotor bearing in the end of the stator housing. It was actually quite a bit of work, and then did the typical tune-up stuff after that. Turns out my new fuel filter was not correct, so I had to reinstall the old one. Not a big deal..it was still flowing fairly well, but wanted it changed for peace of mind. So the little generator now runs like a champ with it's new upgraded circuit board, and an almost full tune-up (everything except the fuel filter, as mentioned). New plugs, oil and air filters, all grounds cleaned, etc. So I stick it back in the RV and get it all wired and plumbed up, and bam...it doesn't work...lol. So... The thing actually runs great off a gas jug and a couple ft of 5/16" fuel line. Starts instantly at the panel or remotely, and will just purr along all day if you leave it. Voltage inside is a pretty solid 120v +/- .5v, so that's all good. Hook it up to the fuel line on the RV and will only run briefly and then sputter a few times and stall, clearly starving for fuel. Using a vacuum pump I pulled maybe a cup or half a cup of fuel from the RV fuel line, and that was it. Pulled up to 20" vacuum, and not fuel. So I then ripped all 20 ft of fuel line out of the RV, and stuck a short 3 ft piece on the tank top fitting. If I blow through I can hear bubbles in the tank...it's not overly easy to blow through, but I can blow through it. If I try to suck on it, it feels completely blocked. Zero fuel. I think this is the sending unit/pick up that is in it...two lines for the engine, and one (black fitting) for the generator. Now I do know that this thing had a new fuel pump installed within the past year or so...maybe two. The fuel pump is IN this sending unit/pick up isn't it? Could they have changed out just the pump or would they had to have swap out the whole unit? The reason I ask is, I wonder if one of those white flex lines is kinked inside the tank? Either that or there's some kind of screen/filter/foot valve in there that is stuck... So frustrating. Anybody familiar with these pick up units that could shed some light on the topic?

As far as resale is concerned, the more original they are, the more the value goes up (in my opinion, and in what I've watched). There was a member on here very recently selling a three-on-the-tree column for cheap...in case you wanted to return that to original? http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Three-on-the-Tree-tp60806.html Those 3spd floor shifter conversions were usually done because the 3spd columns were broken (and they're kind of a wonky set-up anyway). Hotrodding the 300 would be fun, but I don't know if it would do a lot of the value of the truck. The 300 has a cult-like following, and there are a lot of people that appreciate them. How is the interior? There is a lot you can do to spruce up the interior for a small amount of money and make it look like a million bucks. Install LED's in the instruments, paint the needles in the gauges, paint the dash and door panels, new seat cover, etc.

I think that's where I'd be too. If not in a rush to sell, one could start higher like at $3500 or $3750, and see what shakes loose from there. If I'm not in a rush to sell something I start high and decrease. There is always a magic market price...and once you hit it, the phone starts ringing like clockwork. It is a nice looking truck though, and the 3-by-the-knee floor shifters were a common conversion for the 3-on-the-tree trucks back in the day.

If you can't find any used ones, LMC does sell new ones.

No no...I wasn't referring to the cover, I was asking about the black piece on top of the steering box. It must be to keep the plastic cover from rotating? On a power steering truck, that cover hooks on one of the power steering lines to keep it in place. I looked at one locally here a couple years ago that was being parted out. Bare bare bones. It was a 300 with 3-on-the-tree, manual steering and manual brakes, and of course just the warning lights for Oil and Alt instead of gauges. It was either an '80 or '81, I forget now. Those bare bones stripper trucks seem to be way more common in the very early 80's models...the closer you get to 1986 the fewer stripped down trucks you see...at least in my experience.

Sure is expensive. If you ever come across any of these David for a better price, let me know. I'd consider buying one...I need to start collecting a few specific Flareside bed parts, but I'm not paying NOS prices for a tailgate.

Dave, This thing is REALLY cool. What are they worth if you don't mind me asking? And, do you have any installed pics in a Bullnose? Curious to see the shifter arrangement in the cab.

On a good note, us guys that have only a 16 gallon side tank can fill-up much quicker! They outlawed the latches on the gas pump nozzles here years ago, so you have to stand there for the whole fill-up. I don't use my truck that much, so having my full tank range being limited to only 240-250 miles is just fine for me. If I ever get the opportunity to take the truck on a trip, I'll be wanting to stop more often than that anyway.

Dave, I am running my stock rubber flooring (low hump for 3 on the tree) with now the high hump and 5spd tunnel. It fits...not 100% perfect, but it fits and nobody would ever notice the difference.

With rust, who needs thread locker?>..lol. Thanks for the heads up Jim. I'll check it out as well.

Set with steel sides in NC... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/471270920443486/?surface=product_details

Nice set in Kansas...shipping them wouldn't be easy (not without damaging them at least...) https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2503898986607512/?surface=product_details

I always see pictures of Flaresides for sale with cracked and busted fenders and I always wonder, how'd they get that way?...lol. Ray, time to throw in the towel and junk this truck. Not worth fixing. What's you're address again? I'll come over there and take it away for you so it's not so unsightly sitting in the driveway. J/K! Sorry to hear man, seriously. If there's one thing that's fragile on these trucks, it's those fenders (oh, and the rotten wood floors I suppose...lol). I actually have a spare set of fenders...after all of the old parts that I sold, I've hung on to those fiberglass fenders just to have as spares. Funny, I had some for sale ads saved for these fenders and just deleted them all the other day. You'll get 'er all fixed up. Those fenders are easy to swap, and a rattle can paint job will match well enough.

Also interesting...and maybe an '83 only thing, I see there's a stamping/knockout for a manual clutch master, but also a rubber plug for the mechanical clutch linkage. I guess in 1983 there were both mechanical and hydraulic clutches depending on the truck eh? My '84 does not have that rubber plug for the mechanical linkage...obviously they removed it after '83.

Chris, What is that black thing on top of the steering box? It looks like something to keep that plastic cup/guard over the rag joint from rotating? Is it a factory piece or something that was jury rigged in there?

Buy a beater with a heater to run for a few weeks/month while you get it all done? Sell it when you're done...easier said than done, I know...

Sure is nice when a swap fits together like that. I must say 5spd swap was pretty good. Same driveshaft fit, and the speedo cable plugged right in. I already had a hydraulic clutch, so that part was easy too.

I'm just amazed at the miles you have on it Jim. But everything takes time, doesn't it? I actually really enjoy doing mechanic work, but ONLY when I'm in the mood to do it, and have time/not being pushed. When it's a daily driver it adds a level of stress trying to get everything done with 'convenient' downtime. Something I'm not very good at doing is rushing...lol. I need to do things at my own speed...and it might drive Mrs. Rembrant crazy on all of the day's that end in a "y". Still, without her push sometimes I do leave things too long. Can you farm out any of the work to a local shop just to get over the hump?

Excellent! I love these ones. I was looking at a nice one up here similar to this one before we bought the 31ft monster we have now. I really wanted something more compact and easy to maneuver, but Mrs. Rembrant wanted a "full" bathroom and separate bedroom, which pretty much put us into a 27-31ft size range. We looked at a nice 24ft here, but she still felt it would be too small. Heck, if it had been up to me, I would have gone with an F250 pickup and a slide-camper...or a trailer, but as well all know, "roughing it" is far easier for a man than my city-girl wife...lol.

Oh no, sorry I want the coach AC for when we’re are parked camping somewhere. I don’t think we will need it while driving. It’s just my wife and I and two dogs. And we are more concerned about them in the heat than ourselves. The van AC seems to work great though, and I was only running it on normal, not max.

This is what it looks like removed from the RV. I disconnected it and pulled it out with a forklift at work. It is basically in an open air frame hanging under the coach. The genny itself is not sealed in any way and the compartment is basically open to road spray. Trying this from my phone not sure if it will work...