Rembrant

Reminds of this F250 from a year or two ago...and it was in the Midwest somewhere as well...same dealer maybe?...I dunno. https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/meet-the-man-behind-the-incredible-retro-super-duty/

Truck looks great gtanns, keep it up! You can pull one of those lock clips at the junkyard, or order from LMC.

What is this trip odometer you speak of?...lol. Since I travel a lot with my work (and get paid mileage for it), I'm used to taking a picture of my odometer before and after so I've been doing the same with my Bullnose. I saves me from having to write it down

Oh now that is nice! Love it. Seeing that fresh paint on your truck is about as exciting as it gets!

I installed 4 of these clamps new this past winter. I believe my truck only has 2 originally, and one of them had rusted away and broke. I can't remember with my old ones, but the new ones I got at a spring shop have rubber in them, and they won't move once compressed.

I'll second the LUK recommendation. I ordered an 11" LUK kit from Rock Auto and it has been performing fine. Sachs is another decent one if available.

Oh boy would this thing be a blast!... Although I'd probably have to convert it into a Snow Drag Bronco...lol. https://www.ebay.com/itm/383183179218

lol. Is that sarcasm?...lol. I've actually changed mine again, but they take a while to actually change on the forum.

That or there's water in the plug or something shorting it out. I believe that switch is normally open, so if the circuit closes for any other reason that light will come on.

Did you guys happen to read about this Florida Man in the news? https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a29068727/bugatti-veyron-125000-mercury-cougar-for-sale/

How do you remove the dash pad anyway? I haven't done that yet, but need to... Its pretty simple. 3 screws on dash bezzle, 2 screws on radio bezzle, 4 screws in defrost vent, and 2 or 3 just above the glove box door. Then it slides right out. Thanks Ray. I have to remove mine soon to get my A-pillar trim panels sorted out.

Gary...when it comes to coolant (and brake fluid) systems, I have some of the best procrastination skills going...I hate working on either system...lol. I'm fine once I start it, it's just that I will avoid starting it. Swapping out this temp sender...once I finished it, which took all of 10 minutes including disconnecting wires, etc...I was wondering why I was fussing about it in the first place. Once I get all of these bugs sorted out and dealt with, I want to come back to this thread and have the pleasure of saying I did nothing but wax my truck today!!

Ron, Is you factory gauge reading from a factory oil pressure sender? Just curious. I swapped an aftermarket coolant temp sender to a Ford sender this weekend, and now I'm wondering about my oil pressure, which is currently using an aftermarket sender. Currently it reads in the middle of the "M" when driving down the road, and on the "R" at idle. I seem to recall from the dyno day my oil pressure was running something like 60psi when we first started it, and then around 55-56psi once it was warmed up, but I can't remember what it was at idle. A proper oil pressure gauge is on my long list of wants...

Hey Bruno, Any reviews good or bad a year later? I want to check my AFR in the near future, so I'm looking for AFR meter recommendations to save in My Ebay;).

Thanks Frank! I'm quite excited to get some miles on it, and the fall is my favorite time of year, so that's good. It's also the best time of year to be driving a truck with no A/C...lol. October is quite nice here, at least to me. November it starts to cool off a bit, but can still be nice truck weather.

No, and no. I will start picking at it this week. We had some pretty nice weather on the weekend, so I took the opportunity to drive it as much as I could. I need to finish cleaning the interior, but the main issue at the moment is the interior door panels. I need to get them reinstalled, but before I do that I need to install the new speakers, and insulating padding, etc. I also need to install the new door seals, so I need to remove the a-pillar trim and dash pad, etc. For whatever reason, it all feels like more work than it actually is...lol.

How do you remove the dash pad anyway? I haven't done that yet, but need to...

Hahahaha! Dave, you nailed it! I've been driving all weekend...well, that and taking care of a few little tasks here and there. My previous pictures did not show the rear bumper and plate brackets installed:). From the front, but all the same I think... And then one from just a couple hours ago, showing the new F150 emblems installed on the front fenders. I had to grind the little locating nubs off the backs of the new emblems as my aftermarket fenders did not have the holes, and I wasn't drilling them with the new paint on there. Took care of a few other little odds and ends. Fixed the windshield trim on the driver's side (It was loose and not hooked in properly), installed a new FORD coolant temp sender to fix my incorrect gauge, and then took her to the car wash for an engine bay bath. It's starting to come around. Oh...and I picked up a small bottle of touch up paint. I do have some nicks and scratches to clean up and protect. No big deal...this thing IS going to get nicks and scratches.

I got a few small tasks completed on the old Bullnose today, but the most important of all was I finally installed my new Ford temp sender in the intake, and my gauge is back to reading perfectly in the middle like it supposed to!! Please ignore the filthy dash...I still haven't cleaned the interior since it left the body shop, and it needs it BAD. Anyway, I had an aftermarket temp sender in there since last year, and it was driving me nuts. Previously, the needle was always on the "L" when the coolant temp was at 195F. Now, temp is exactly the same, and the gauge is in the middle. It is slightly right of middle in the picture above, but it was mostly running almost straight up and down. Love it. I'm sorting out all kinds of aftermarket part issues this week! I had been avoiding changing this sender because I didn't want to deal with coolant all over the place (no matter what I do, I always seem to end up with it all over everything, including the floor). Anyway, with the engine cold, I just popped the old one out and stuck the new one in while dealing with a minor coolant geyser coming out of the intake. No biggie, I was heading for the carwash to shampoo and wash the engine bay anyway. All good in the hood now!!

I thought about it...lol, but they weren't cheap...I think $35 each, which including tax would be $40 for me. I liked the idea of buying one and doing it, but not when I still have a full size Bullnose that needs a lot of my time...lol.

Cool. I have never operated an RC vehicle in my entire life. I probably wouldn't have the hand-eye coordination to do it...lol. I dropped by one of the big local crafts stores last week to pick up a wedge tipped metallic paint marker for doing bezel edges, and I happened to walk by the model shelf and spotted two of these guys:

Yeah, I was pleased with that. I'm really hoping to hit 20mpg highway with it, although I won't be getting into mpg and AFR tuning until spring 2020. I was on the highway a little bit yesterday afternoon (drove out to the junkyard and back...lol) and the truck runs pretty nicely at 2000 RPM and almost 70MPH. That seems to be a nice highway speed at a decent RPM. Maybe I'd end up at 1900 RPM and 65-ish MPG, not sure. I'll try to find the sweet spot where I can get the best MPG with it. As for the fuel gauge, I am so happy now that it working correctly (or, better than it was at least). I'm going to keep watching my fill ups until I get it visually calibrated where there's a couple gallons left in it. That will get me approximately 250 mile range per tank, and I'll be happy with that too. The only downside to all this, and it's nothing to do with this thread, is that the 302 is still a little bit of a dog at 1900-2000 RPM. It doesn't seem to light up until somewhere around 2300-2400 RPM. Between the 5spd and the 3.08 rear end, the final drive ratio is pretty tall. It just feels like it would roll into the power band much nicer if I was already cruising at, lets say 2300 RPM instead of 1900-2000. Maybe I need a 3.25 geared diff, I dunno. Ford did build these trucks with this same 5spd and the same 3.08 diff, so what I have here is not an unusual combination. It always goes back to what I call my "351 Envy". Anyway, more to come on this next year when I finally get into fine tuning this thing.

Well done Ron! It sure is nice after all that work to get some recognition. Heck, out of 172 vehicles I would have considered 10th place pretty darn good!

That interior looks fantastic!

“Stock harness”? You guys and your fancy trucks that came with radios lol.