Rembrant

Looks like my coil is still within spec... According to the link you posted, a good coil should read between 0.4-2 ohms on the primary side, and between 6,000-15,000 on the output side. My existing 35 year old Ford coil reads 1.3 ohms and 8,460 ohms. The new aftermarket one I picked up today reads 3.0 ohms and 11,870 ohms. Maybe I'll install the new one and keep the old one as a spare. I've been meaning to put together a little behind the seat kit with the old truck essentials...lol.

Thanks for the info Gary! I have a list of things to check now, and that's all I needed to get started. I'll be back with results later!

Gary, Forgive me for dumb questions, but I have had almost NO experience with carbs. I was just thinking...if the carb was jetted for WOT dyno pulls, I forget what AFR now, but I think it was 12.5 or there abouts, wouldn't it by default end up running a little rich at cruise RPM's? I know the plugs tell a different story, but I'm just trying to understand how the jetting works. I remember having the discussion with the engine builder that I might have to re-install the leaner #66 jets when I got the engine re-installed. The rationale at the time was that with the shorty headers and full exhaust(s) with mufflers might decrease the flow enough to make the AFR more rich... And I seem to remember reading a lot of internet chatter that Holley carbs usually run too rich out of the box. Oddly, my experience has been the opposite. Maybe my engine is flowing more air than usual.

Ha! I suppose there people that still buy milk in bags. I haven't poured out of a bag/pitcher in 40 years I'm sure.

Gary, Yes, yes, and yes! The dyno pulls started at 2800 RPM and went to 5500 RPM if I recall correctly, so any fuel corrections made were in reference to those RPM's under load. I have the Crane adjustable vacuum advance kit installed, and I have it set for maximum advance (weakest springs). Truth be told, I meant to go back and play with this some more to check and/or adjust it if necessary. I did play with it initially after installing the engine, but never did go back to fine tune it. I will check on this for sure. One potential issue I had with the centrifugal advance was finding out exactly when it was advancing. I was having a tough time checking this stuff since I couldn't rev the engine and check the timing at the same time...or not very well at least. The centrifugal timing was supposed to be all in by 2800 RPM (I think), but it did not seem like it increased gradually like it was supposed to. It seemed like all of the advance was above maybe 2200 RPM. Again...going by fuzzy memory here, but it is all good because now I have a very good excuse to check all of this stuff over to get it dialed in.

HA! Well, truth be told I originally typed "Like a can of soda", doing my best to speak "American"...lol. But I seem to recall that the whole soda vs. pop is a regional thing in the US isn't it? We call it pop up here, but anyway... We buy our milk in cartons...but it does still come in a "Jug" if you buy 4L or a gallon...or whatever...lol.

That thing looks pretty nice, and it's a good price too, isn't it?

I picked up a new coil while out on lunch, and it sloshes like a jug of milk! I don't even know if I need it yet, but I wanted to have one as a spare anyway, so it'll go behind the seat if I don't need it right now.

Cool. Thank you sir, I'll check it this evening.

Gary, sorry I did miss that. No EGR system at all. I am running my original distributor, but with modified advance. If I remember correctly, I have my base timing set at 12 degrees, and mechanical is 20 degrees. Vacuum advance if it's working correctly would be another 10 or 20 degrees above that? Great questions Gary. You're giving me more to think about here. Maybe a lean misfire? I will check over the timing again and see where it all is. More good questions. Since I have a bit of a lumpy cam in there, it has a bit of a lopey idle anyway, so it's hard to tell. Pulling the belts is easy to do though, I will give that a try also. Thanks Guys.

Ok, good to know. To correct this I'd want to change the main jets, yes? I'm running a new Holley 4160 600CFM 4bbl carb. When it was dyno tuned, the stock #66 jets were removed and #68 jets were installed. The dyno testing however was done with open long tube headers and mostly with an open carb. Also, the dyno tests were all 2800 RPM to redline. Maybe it's still running too lean down in the lower RPM's where I drive it.

Thanks Gents, On the same topic, but different question...with otherwise all stock ignition components, what do you guys recommend for plug wires? I currently have Ford 8mm wires...nothing special.

Gentlemen, I'm going to do some engine testing this week but was just curious what are the symptoms of a bad or a weak ignition coil? Mine is the original 1984 coil sitting on top of the intake in the stock location. I have never had to replace one before so I don't know the symptoms of a bad one. Do they just outright fail and go from 100% to 0%, or do they weaken over time? If I was to buy a replacement, do I just get a typical aftermarket replacement? Or is there a better one to install as an "upgrade" that will work with a stock DSII ignition system?

Not exhaust noise, no...it's definitely a vibration, I just can't tell if it's normal or not. Pretty sure it isn't... Good idea on the exhaust port temp check. I may try that tonight before I do a compression test. So how does that oil get up around the plug anyway? I guess it works it's way up past the threads? The engine uses no oil and doesn't smoke or anything. It IS brand new, so it shouldn't...but anything is possible.

Haha Ken, I knew you couldn't resist buying this truck!!...lol. So are you going to sell the black one now? That EFI must be a swap. As far as I'm aware, the 300 was carbed until 1987. Only the 302 got EFI part way through 1985. Are the old SBF engine perches still there...or is there evidence that they were? I'm not sure if they need to be removed or not to install a 300.

Gary, I don't think anything is touching anywhere. Engine mounts were new when I installed the rebuilt engine last year...nothing special...they're just the parts store ones. I pulled the front four plugs tonight and I think they all look ok? Maybe have about 3500-4000 miles on them.

That thing looks GREAT Dave!

Well nothing too exciting but I did put about 250 miles on the old Bullnose today on a quick round trip visit to my parents place. I'm having some vibration issues. The tires/wheels are vibrating...and they need to be checked and re-balanced, so I don't need any help there...but,... I feel like there is a vibration in my engine. How much of it is normal with the cam I do not know, but it does seem to vibrate more than it should. I just pulled all of the plug wires one by one, and there was a change in idle each time...not much of one mind you, but a change nonetheless. One of them (#7) didn't seem to change much at all, but it did change a little bit. So is a compression test the next best thing to check what each cylinder is doing? Any other advice? New plugs? New fuel filter, etc? They've all been in there since I put the engine in last year.

PS: The last two picture I posted are not a good representation of the illumination imho. They look too bright in those pics, but I think it was just because of the iPhone in the dark. The first picture seems pretty accurate. I don't find them overpowering at all. They seem just right.

I ordered and installed a set of these Ice Blue instrument panel lights and I LOVE THEM! Best $10 I've ever spent on the old truck. I don't drive it at night very often, but anytime I did it was annoying because I could barely read the gauges (Not only were they dim, only 4/5 of the bulbs were working). In any case, sometimes just a little thing will make a vehicle much nicer to drive and operate. iPhone pics at night are a bit grainy, my apologies, but you can kinda get the idea of how they look. (PS: I don't think the dimmer switch changes the brightness much, but I believe I had them on full brightness here). Thanks Emunder for the heads up on these. I'm going to order another set as spares.

Dave, Just as a side note, I don't think all Flaresides had them. They are shown in the drawing below, front and rear, but I've looked at about a dozen of these trucks, and I've only ever seen one that had the braces. My truck does not have them, and you could tell that they were never there. Just interesting is all. It might depend on who assembled the truck that day.

Here you go Oz:

The right hand side spring seat is approx 1/4" taller than the driver's side (Left hand side). I assume it's because the beams are different from left to right. I also have a set from a Bricknose 4x4, and they're a 1/4" different in height side to side as well.

They’re supposed to be different height. Nothing to worry about.

That IS cool.