Rembrant

Welcome aboard. I must have missed this thread previously. I know I've been on/read Fordification pages many times. Great stuff.

It's there, but you can't see it in my picture, sorry. There is a ground lug on the frame hidden behind the big starter cable in my picture. The factory cable is one piece, and runs from the battery to the lug on the engine. There is a lug on that cable that mounts on the frame. When I replaced mine, I simply used 2 cables...one long one from the battery to the frame, and then a short one from the frame to the block.

I had all of mine made up locally, but I believe LMC sells replacement cables.

Ha...I don't want low, heck I don't even want level...that's something else I'm not into...lol.

I don't have a problem with the plastic, but what I'm not a fan of is the current trend of chopping everything up and slamming it to the ground. Most will claim that it is all done for handling purposes, but it is not...it is purely a stance thing. It's about being low. It's why people with lowered vehicles also slouch very low in the seat when they're driving them...lol. However, we all have difference and unique tastes, and that's a good thing. For ever single guy that tells me I need to lower my truck and slam it to the ground, I get another guy that loves it just the way it is, in it's 80's style. But back to the kit car/truck. I'm into it 100%, but the vehicle would have to be to my taste. I've love a restomod vintage or classic...even a Bullnose, with modern suspension, electronics, rack and pinion steering, etc...I just wouldn't want it lowered to the ground with giant wheels tucked into the fenders...lol. I'd rock the blue '35 above, as long as I could lift it off the ground and add some nice wheels and tires that gave it more of a look like it was hotrodded in the 60's, 70's, or 80's.

I've seen a small handull of late gen dentside trucks go through the local junkyard, and the poor old 351M went straight to the crusher in all of them...fully intact, with the air cleaners still on them. But cool offer Angelo. I'm quarantined also...sort of...and I started cleaning my garage yesterday and was wondering what parts I can clean up and post for sale. This thread is good motivation I'd say. Good luck with the sale.

Welcome aboard Rodeoclown. I used to travel to Lancaster PA every once in a while with a previous employer. I grabbed a free bumper sticker at one of the the PA highway stops one time that said "I stop for Shoefly Pie". I have no idea what Shoefly pie is...lol, must be an eastern PA thing? I stuck it on the window in my garage where it stayed for about 10 years until we replaced the windows a few years ago;). In any case, well aboard!

Flareside anything really. Fenders, steps, Tailgate, rear bumper (factory rear bumper only). Bumper brackets. The dash/instruments/radio bezels can be worth good money if they're in good condition. I just sold a 1986 Burlwood set for $120 bucks shipped. They are quick and easy to remove as well. The little gear indicators for the automatic transmission trucks are starting to go up in value as well. The little cable breaks on them, and there is no replacement. If any of the trucks are manual trans with hydraulic clutches, grab the pedal sets out of them. They can be removed pretty quickly and easily. Electric impact and the right sockets and it'll be out in minutes. People are looking for these and I've seen them sell for $100 bucks. I know nothing about the various body moldings and trim pieces, but people are often looking for them in good condition. They may be more trouble that they're worth to remove, but people are always hunting for them. In any case, good luck. You could probably grab enough parts to make it really worth your while, although you might have to sit on them for a little while. Most of this stuff will sell after a while. Nice interior parts are hard to come by these days. If you get a chance to browse through the vehicles, take some pictures and show us what is there. Pics of the certification labels are always very helpful too.

I don't have a 460, but I did install a new Holley 4160 on my 302. I bought the kit below, and my stock throttle cable and bracket worked just fine. I forget which one fit exactly, but one of them was perfect for the Ford cable. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/brackets_and_linkage/parts/20-2 I did also install a 1" spacer under the 4160, which lifted it up to about the same height as the original carb (which was on top of an EGR spacer). I connected the Holley electric choke to the original electric choke wire on the truck, although a lot of people say not to do this. You'll have to read up on that one and make your own decision. There have been a few discussions on here on ways to get the correct power to the carb. I think an oil pressure switch is a good one.

I took pictures of all this stuff as reference before I pulled my 302. The starter cable did have a split loom on it from the factory, and it had just the one mounting clamp on the engine. See the in the stud in the block below...the ground from the battery and frame goes on first, then a nut, then the clamp for the starter cable, and then another nut. That was it on the 302. I replaced all of these cables, and bought new wire loom as well. I think it was 3/8" wire loom as it fit fairly snug on the cable.

So I went to junkyard this morning to see if I could get the padded steering wheel out of this old Bullnose. Somebody had been in there to remove the ignition housing and completely destroyed the steering wheel to remove it. Jackasses. Steering wheels are so easy to remove too...lol.

I bought a factory black (Charcoal?) grill from a local Ford guy to replace my plain grey grill, and it has really grown on me. I like the chrome stuff too, but I was trying to keep my truck on the plain side, but still wanted something other than the original grey grill.

I'm personally quite fond of the plain bare front bumper, and prefer it, certainly on a plain truck at least. Overall, I actually prefer plain trucks in general. It's not that I dislike a two tone or Lariat or any of the fancier versions of my own, it's just that I have a fondness for them in plain trim. Nothing sexier than a nice two tone Lariat...they are gorgeous. I think my preference simply comes from what I'm used to. Growing up, there were a lot of plain Bullnose trucks around. Rural areas, everybody used them for work...around here we say the "Three F's"...fishing, farming, and forestry, and most families were not buying Lariats and XLT's for that. Also, I should probably admit that I also always had it my head that a plain truck was going to be far easier and cheaper to restore...one color, no trim, no moldings, etc. Anyway...back to the bumpers...I do like them plain, but I like them with the guards and rub strips on a truck like Rick's. I find it would look out of place on a plain truck like mine. PS: Don't forget that there was also a 3rd front bumper style...and those I find a little odd looking. Nothing against them of course, but when they have the black rub strips but no guards, they look to me like something is missing because of the gaps where the guards are supposed to be. PSS: Funny about the bumper topic...I did just receive an order from LMC, and in that order was the two plastic inserts and screws for the front bumper so I could install a front plate. We don't have front tags here, but I might get something made up to just break things up a bit on the front. I'm thinking of something similar to the original Ford style dealer decal that was on my tailgate, but made to fit a licence plate size.

The Ebay auctions seem to always have the same pattern...there is a bunch of bidding up in the first 3 days, then the bidding flatlines until the end of the auction. It might move another few hundred bucks before it closes, but typically they hit the highest price half way through the timeline of the auction. There have been a small handful of really nice Broncos like this one sell for $13k-ish in the past couple years. Usually with nicer wheels and tires, but still...straight rust free trucks do get good prices most of the time.

I had to go read up on this Gary, because I just received money from the US a few days ago for some parts, and there was no fee on my end for receiving the money. What there is a fee for is converting the USD to CDN (2.5-3.5%, depending on the currency), plus whatever buffer Paypal is using on the exchange itself (Probably 2% or so, like the banks do). Paypal does not let us withdraw the money in USD...it must be converted first. Anyway...I usually leave the USD in my Paypal account for using on Ebay, etc...and therefor pay no fees for the money. It you withdraw it however, then yes I guess you'll probably lose about 5% of it. I've never really paid much attention to the fees to be honest, but now I know...lol. Please let us know how the book is when you finally get it;). Cheers,

Gary, I figured the shipping would be as much as the book itself, so that isn't a big surprise. I've shipped a lot of stuff to the US, so I'm used to it. Sounds like he doesn't even use Paypal at all, or he would be used to it and understand the fee structure, which isn't much. If you want to Gary, ask him if he will accept an E-transfer from within Canada (email money transfer in CDN dollars). Tell him you have a friend that could send it. There are no seller ratings that I'm aware of. I see he has 190 items listed, has been a member for 5 years, and has a 96% reply rating. The fact that he's selling a lot of car stuff and old manuals makes him seem legit. I'd say he's pretty safe. I've ordered a lot of stuff from random people on Kijiji and have never had any problems. Otherwise yes, it's as simple as mailing a check. If it's a personal check, then just make sure it is clearly indicated or written that the amount is in USD. If I can help in any way Gary, let me know.

Ahh, OK, it would be interesting to know because the 3 digit codes have shown up before, and with the 3 being the third digit (on both 4x4 and 4x2 vehicles). So the information on the 3rd digit from the Ford book that is posted here (and elsewhere) is incorrect?

So what does the 3rd digit in the axle code refer to on the F150? Somebody mentioned previously (I forget who now) that the 9" was used on F150 2wd trucks with 351 until 1986, and on F150 4x4 w/4spd trucks until 1986, and that everything else got the 8.8, but that could just be internet randomness. I've seen a couple 1986 F150's with 9" rear ends, but they also always had an NP435 too.

Haha. I checked the current exchange rate and $35 CDN is $25 USD today. Shipping from Ontario to OK shouldn't be too bad.

That's $35 CDN, which right now is probably about $20 USD.

Came across this old catalog in my morning "coffee searches".... https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-other/belleville/vintage-1986-ford-dealer-standard-stock-catalog/1465873990?undefined What exactly is this? Just a parts book, or something else?

At first glance, this truck almost looks like it was intended for the Canadian market. The Lariat trim level, but minus the options like AC was not all that uncommon up here. AC was quite a luxury item in Canada back in the 1980's and earlier. They were still building Bullnoses late into the fall in 1986 at more than one plant. I've seen the 09/86 build dates before, and I thought even 10/86, but when I look through the certification labels pictures I have saved, all I can find is an 09/86 built in Norfolk. But you know what makes this truck an even odder oddball? The 3 digit (163) axle code. The 16 is for the 3.50 rear end, but the 3 indicates it was a Power Steering delete truck, which is REALLY odd. If it has power steering now, it was added after it was built. Here's a link to a thread where the guy had the original invoice that showed the truck had dealer installed power steering. How funny is that? https://www.f150forum.com/f13/axle-code-359260/ The 302/NP435/4x4 means that the truck also has a 9" rear end (and confirmed by the 3.50 gears), which was also not very common by 1986. Quite an oddball indeed.

I've never heard of it, but I like seeing the old trucks in TV and movies.

Cool. Very nicely done.

Very VERY nice.