Rembrant

Ha! I might forget a lot of things, but drinking coffee wouldn't be one of them...lol. My apologies Gary...I didn't realize that those threads were misplaced. I do usually go directly to the Ebay section for my posts, but if I missed it I missed it. Full disclosure I am in a bit of a stupor sometimes at 3 and 4am when I am doing this...lol. I would prefer to be sleeping at those times instead of being online, but sometimes I am reluctantly awake:nabble_smiley_cry:

Thanks for the replies guys. I scraped off the bigger clumps of the stuff, but I'd like to clean it all off. I often use Lacquer Thinner for difficult stuff like this, but I'm not sure if it will damage the plastic or not...

How many fuel tanks does this old girl have???...lol. One in the cab, and then left and right tanks under the bed too? I really like the dentside trucks, and this one is very nice although I'm not overly keen on the color.

In a news story I watched this morning about farming, they showed this truck below... This was on a large orchard/farm...for apples, peaches, and tangerines. Besides the cab likely being rotten with the floor collapsing, I assume it was removed due to space in the rows between crops? As in there's no room to be opening and closing the doors...or like any company that monitors production, they were counting steps, and opening and closing doors were just extra and unnecessary steps... Wouldn't be much fun in the rain, but it would be no worse than being on a tractor I suppose...lol.

I'm pretty sure I reused my old one, but I did replace the rubber grommet for sure, I do remember doing that. I'm pretty sure LMC has the valves, and Rockauto lists them as well, but they are out of stock. Should be this guy below. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-060-Fuel-Tank-Valve/dp/B00OZVOIPI

More disassembly and cleaning tonight. The fan housing in the heater/AC box was FULL of crap...some kind of a nest built in there. Anyway, this black slime around the evaporator where the cover attaches....was this stuff factory applied or did somebody add that during a replacement? This truck did not have a lot of miles on it...only about 125,000 miles...and it's Canadian, so it's not like the AC was used year round or anything...

I'll have to clean up the pulley, but when I looked at it last, I don't believe that it was meant to be changed. I think the metal is crimped around it. Doesn't mean that it can't be changed...just means it wasn't meant to be. I'll look into it and let you know. Hoping my stock rad/fan/clutch will be OK, at least in the short term. I don't mind swapping that stuff, it just requires more time, and more money...lol.

Ok, technically speaking, I'm all good on this swap now. Wiring, plumbing, mechanical, etc. I still need a few little odds and ends, but I have all of the big and important stuff now. This one is going to be fun, and it will look good as a full factory install. A lot of things won't raise the value of my little old Bull, but some nice cold factory AC will. Couple questions though Gary that I asked above wondering if you can help with: 1. Did a truck like mine with factory AC have a different radiator fan? 2. Do you know if the bearing can be changed in the AC compressor belt tensioner?

OK, try this... I disconnected the the plugs for an example. Pretend the connector on the right is C606 in my Non-AC truck. The two wires on the left are from the AC harness. One is brown/white, and the other is brown/orange. It looks like all I have to do is simply open up the C606 connector in my truck, and connect the two halves to the two wires of the AC harness. Does that make sense? If you look at the two diagrams in the EVTM for heat only, and then heat/AC, the AC wiring simply inserts in between the fuse and the blower. That should be all I have to do.

Hang on a sec...I just deleted my reply because I worded it incorrectly...lol. BRB...

Correct. The connector genders are reversed between C606 and C606A. Well, what I meant was, it looks like the harness in my truck was made to accept the AC harness. I should be able to open up connector C606 on my truck, and then plug both wires from the AC harness into each half of the C606 connector. In other words, no splicing. Just plug and play. I won't know for sure until I get in there and actually try it, but at least I know where to connect the two wires from the AC harness, even if I do have to splice them in (But I assume I do not).

Ok, clarification...maybe... I just went back through the EVTM again because it just wasn't making sense to me. I was looking at the "AC-Heater" page thinking it referred to both AC and Heat, but that is not the case. I found the Heat (only) page that refers to my truck, and it shows connector C606. So, correct me if I'm wrong here, but I should be able to disconnect connect C606 shown above, and plug each half into the two connectors on the AC/Heat controller, and then I have C606 and C606A? The two connectors from the AC truck are reversed...the male and female ends of the connectors. So I should disconnect the two dead/cut-off ends, and then the two halves remaining should plug into the two halves of connector C606 in my truck. Does that sound correct? They may not be in the 100% correct location, but electrically that would be correct, no?

Oh, so you think that the C606A will not be in my Non-AC truck?

Gary, as Peter Griffin once said, you are as cool as the other side of the pillow! Thank you sir, that picture is exactly what I needed. One of the connectors was broken off, and it wasn't clear to me what it was supposed to be attached to, but now it is. The wiring for the AC is really quite simple, so this is going to be a pretty easy install. A lot of time, yes,...but not difficult. The picture below are the two wires/connectors that I cut from the harness of the donor truck. These should be connectors C606 and C606A, and if I'm understanding the wiring correctly, these same two connectors should also be in my Non-AC equipped F150. Would you agree with that thought? The only other stray if this one wire off the AC harness closer to the plug for the AC compressor clutch. It must be for the throttle kicker, which I hadn't planned on using. I might just delete that wire...it's burned and melted anyway.

Definitely. I always see the nice truck underneath all the cheese...lol. I'd have to remove everything and plain it down a little bit for my liking.

Ok, I've been taking stuff apart and cleaning this evening trying to see what parts I'm going to need, and what parts I need to fix. So now I have a few more questions: 1. Where do you buy the little vacuum cylinders? The one I'm going to need for sure is the one for the recirc door (The vacuum motor in the engine bay on top of the heat/AC box). 2. Can the recirc door be removed and recovered? Has anybody done this before? 3. Does anybody know if the bearing can be replaced in the idler/tensioner pulley for the compressor V-belt? 4. Can anybody take a picture of the plugs/wiring in and around the resistor pack in the heat/AC box? I have the wiring pretty much sorted out (I think), but just curious where a couple of the wires go that in near/between the resistor pack and the plug on the AC pressure switch. Edit: 5. Did the trucks with factory AC have different radiator fans? I mean different than the one that is currently on my non-AC truck?

Hi Dave, I actually checked them and they're nice and free. The distributor is brand new, so they should be good. I'll get some more testing done when the weather comes back around again. As Bullnose issues go, this should be an easier one to sort out...

Haha, well you could certainly post an ad asking for that much...lol.

You better be sitting down when you look at the price on this one. Nice truck though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114153140170

Yes that was me, but I actually just got a set of them a week or so ago from an '83 that I got all of the lines from. Thanks for looking out for me though!!

Yeah, that's what I thought. I'm just spit balling some plans on how to do this once I get my hands on all of the parts. I may end up with a hybrid system...that is mostly factory AC with the distribution/vents more like a dealer AC system. It would work fine and most people wouldn't know the difference visually anyway. So I finally picked up a whole car load of stuff tonight. Mostly the final pieces for a full factory AC conversion. The dash is in really nice condition, but the steel frame needs some repair work on the driver's side. I didn't need the cluster or bezels, but they came with the whole thing anyway. So now I have just about everything, all removed from three different trucks. Dash/interior parts and all ducts/heater/AC box removed from a 1986. All engine bay lines, condenser, and wiring harness removed from a 1983, and compressor and brackets removed from a 1985 w/302 out in ND. Couple little trinkets I still need, and I believe some misc parts that Shaun may still have, and I'm good to go here. It won't be happening right away, but perhaps I'll start a new thread later on about the conversion. Thanks to all that have helped me get this far. Your patience has been appreciated.

Ok, thanks gents. We got a little snow last night so testing is postponed for a couple days until the roads clear up again. Salt trucks were out.

Yes, sure does. So Blue for R12, and then red for 134 w/regular cab. (And orange for super cab w/134). And the pressure switch is adjustable. Good to know. Just need to know what oil then I guess.

Gentlemen, I'm getting pretty close to having all of the required factory AC parts for the my truck. I've been going through parts diagrams and listings, etc and I noticed on LMC's page that there are two different orifice tubes (Red, and Blue). So blue for 1980-1996, and red for 1987-1996. What is the difference between the two tubes/orifices? Is 134a the refrigerant of choice these days? The trucks originally had R12 correct? Final question is the oil. What brand/type oil will be required if starting with a clean/new/dry system?

So I haven't really had any time this week to work on the truck...but I did take it for a quick drive yesterday, and planned to do the coil wire test. The darn thing started just fine hot 2 out of 3 times, and the one time it did crank kind of slow it did start relatively quick, so I didn't do the test. So my question is now, if it is timing related, would the issue be present all the time? Or could it be intermittent?