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grumpin

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Everything posted by grumpin

  1. I agree, heat or cold could be affecting the plug wires also. Could be the plug is not bad enough to show, but cause what you saw on the scope. As Rusty said, and we’ve all experienced, strange things can happen.
  2. I know of the water trick but it was like it was not being pulled or sucked in to the system. I did set the cans on the intake / exh manifolds, 300 six so they are right there, that was warm and did not really help like it has in the past. 1200 RPM the low side was 11 / high 155 800 RPM low 20 / high 155 Compressor off both sides 100 / 100 What was strange is when I used the can hose with gauge on the low side of the system, the gauge said the PSI was to high / in the red? But the compressor would not stay running unless I jumped the switch. Other than the difference in PSI with the change in idle RPM only the low side changed not the high side. Its like it would pull a little but did not put out any psi noted at the 155 psi at the 2 different idle RPM's Dave ---- Looks like it’s pumping. Odd that it’s not pulling it in. I’ve had to leave the switch jumpered for 3 or more cans on bigger systems.
  3. I like NGK, a lot of that comes from riding 2 cycle dirt bikes, Husky's, and they did better to me with NGK. Champion aircraft spark plugs are great, not a fan of Champion auto spark plugs. I’d probably go with copper on your engine, maybe platinum if it showed necessary. My Xterra calls for double platinum I believe, it will eat up anything less.
  4. Blue and what the factory had in it with R12. Now I have had this system blowing cold with the blue valve when I first got the system working so I dont think its the blue orifice valve. I have also seen post between the blue or red and most go back to the blue as it blows colder. Again it worked before when the OAT has been in the upper 90's so I cant see it being the problem. Besides the loose fittings and needing a recharge each time it has blown warmer and warmer each time. I was thinking it needed a good vacuum pulled but now I wonder if the compressor has been going south this whole time? I know the noise is not normal but it worked so I did not look into it deeper. Dave ---- Something I learned to do is use a bucket of warm water to put the can in to get it to empty as much as possible. Not hot water, but warm, lukewarm or slightly more so. Are the high and low pressures different? If high and low are close in pressure, usually a sign of a bad compressor.
  5. In my old 88 F250 with the ZF tranny, someone overfilled it and it did not shift good at all. What type of fluid is in the tranny? Does it call for ATF?
  6. Oh ya, I'll check it for sure. I'm just hoping I can leave it alone and not get into redoing all that set up. Even if it was not perfect, we're talking about a truck that will likely only see a 1000-2000 miles per year, so it's not like a daily driver or anything. Great job Cory!
  7. Nice! Good job! Happy pup and the Softopper looks good rolled up.
  8. Nice! I like the color on your new one! Old one too!
  9. Looking good! I like the history! Good suggestion Cory!
  10. https://reno.craigslist.org/cto/d/tonopah-72-bronco/7502467448.html Thought I’d put this on here just in case someone is looking for an early Bronco.
  11. I think it’s enough. You could save the finer details for questioners and aficionados!
  12. Will it go to the run position? That’s where it should be for removal.
  13. The answer is no, our trucks probably won't run if hit by a massive EMP. It is expected that the DS-II or TFI ignition systems would be killed if the truck has a simple system, and the ECU would die if the truck had one of those. Basically the theory is that the only way a truck would run is if it has a points-style ignition. So get a distributor with points and a coil and you could make it run - until you run out of gas. Interesting! I always thought the DS II wouldn’t be affected by an EMP.
  14. Sorry Gary, saw this after I sold my truck this afternoon.
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