FuzzFace2

Thanks guys I don't remember any dimples either. I knew of the later one but figured I give the old ones a try. So what flops down? Does the visor rotate on the rod like you would turn it down to block the sun when driving or something else? I cant see them turning on the rod as I had to fight to get them off and back on. Now that spring deal is a POS and the drivers side was loose and why I did what I did to make it tighter. Till I got it installed and use the truck I will not know if "the fix" worked or not. If I ever get to a junk yard I will give a look for the later ones just in case. Dave ----

The over drive is in and working, took it to work 1 day but it has been to hot to drive it unless I have to like the weekly trash runs. Think it was last weekend I installed the used carpet and floor mats along with the shifter boots The carpet made it like a different truck as it is so quite now. Yesterday I used Car Parts.com to look up the AC compressor and 2 yards close list 1 each. I will take tools with me to work and if I get out early will hit them to see what I can get. I would like to get the compressor with motor brackets if I can for extras, hoses & dryer. I want the hoses & dryer mostly to see how they fit as I think the dryer will not fit my evap so if I have used parts I might be able to come up with something that will work ....... I hope! Today I worked on the sun visors. I bought a set from LMC a while back as both sets I have were hurting, they only come in black. I used the set from my truck, the parts truck has a over head storage rack with visors so I left them together, they were also in little better shape. Beside only coming in black they done come with the rod / mount so you have to reuse the old one. Well what a job trying to pull them out! Once out I looked them over to see what it would take to tighten one of them up. That was the hardest part. I first tried to shim the spring by cutting flat washer and fitting either under or in the coils and could see this was not going to work. I had to take it all apart then figure a way to hold it all back together. The factory has a peened over end holding a washer & spring, etc in place. At first I tapped the end for 5/16 threads but the end is just a little to small and the nut did not grab it to good. The center was somewhat hollow so I tried tapping it for 1/4-20 but not having a finishing tap I could not go to far in but got enough to help hold the nut in place. With that tight I started putting the rod in the first visor and after fighting it about half way I saw I started it from the wrong side! Got that straighten out and the rods in both visors. To bad I did not have black inside as they looked damn good so I prepped them for SEM paint to match the rest of the panels inside. I used almost a full can to cover both visors and think it could have used a little more but it was 96* in the garage and I was done for the day! Well almost done as I looked over my broken A pillar parts, I am missing 1 some where? Will check my parts bins but I don't remember putting the 1 in there and the other 3 on my work table in the work shop side. I think I can glue them back together to get the shape needed for mounting then coat them in fiber glass rosin to make them stronger. I will then use spray can spray on bed liner for texture and them paint color to match. I will also look when in the junk yard to see what shape that truck might be in. I will mount the visors in a day or 2, want them to dry really good before I start putting my grubby hands on them. Then maybe I can look into mounting the mirror. I wanted to make sure the visors cleared it. It was to hot for pictures but will before / after mounting. Dave ----

Congratulations on the first drive sounds like it turned out a lot better than mine, I lost the brakes & the clutch linkage Dave ----

I wonder if it is for the same reason not to use GL-5 gear oil the transmissions, it hurts the yellow metal in the transmission. GL-4 is ok to use and the last I used was marked GL-4 / GL-5 so I hope I am ok. So if there is any in a transfer case, thrust washers? they could be hurt. Dave ----

I don't know what all will work just yet. From what I have found so far mine (81) started with a York compressor used different hoses than the later years. Now where this comes into play is at the dryer as the later hoses will not fit my dryer and the later dryer will not fit the evaporator so??? I did a search on Car Parts today and found 2 junk yards close that may have a compressor each for $75 and if lucky will try for the hoses & dryer. I will not use the dryer only for test fitting so I know how to go with it, same on the hoses. I do have my old hoses also to try. So I will have to carry tools with me to work and if I get out early swing by as they are on the way home and see what they have. With out a compressor with the manifold I cant really move forward. It's cool and I under stand completely. The wife keeps telling me to get rid of parts, more so for my 70 AMC Javelin, and I tell her if I need that part and cant find one then what do I do? I think she under stands it now on the AMC after talking to other wives and hearing the same thing. Good thing all us guys are on the same page LOL Dave ----

I bought a new desktop PC in 1999 (I think that's when it was)....a Pentium 3 with Windows ME and a huge at the time 20GB hard drive. I remember the guy that put it together for me telling me that I would never ever fill that hard drive...ha! To his credit, that computer did last us a very long time, all things considered. I did the same thing to my truck that I did last Saturday ......... took the weekly trash to the dump. What was cool when coming home I went the long was so I could use over drive. Just as I made the turn onto my road, its a main road between towns, a guy in a mid 80's Chevy gave me a wave, guess he likes Ford's LOL I gave a wave back. His truck looked to be in good shape, LED head lights and a set of wheels that I could see in passing. Dave ----

There is a reason why it is heavier ...... better built maybe? Even at 380 all the weight is up top making it fun to move ...... NOT! When I moved my son help me load mine into a POD container for shipping. When it showed up with 3 other POD's we had movers move the 2+ man stuff into the house and I was able to get them to help get it out and into my garage. Maybe hit the local corner help stand and offer $10 to $20 each to 2 guys to help off load it? I also like what Jim had to say LOL Dave ----

FYI this is what the 83> compressor & bracket looks like. not my setup I need the compressor still. Now for you to use it from what I can see you would need to find the motor brackets. Now there are 2 different type of brackets for this pump. 1 uses the same P/S pump you have used on pick up's and think cars with a 300 six. the other is used in vans and uses a different P/S pump. So if you find a van you would need to get all the brackets, AC & P/S, along with the both pumps and hoses. I would not use the AC pump on the truck but as a core for a new / rebuilt one. And because your pump went bad you either need to replace other parts or flush them really really good. The replacement condenser is not a bolt in. It is made for the newer trucks so you have to use spacers and longer bolts to get it to bolt up, same for the grille IIRC to clear the condenser. Hoses and maybe the dryer could be an issue for you being a dealer install. I know the early (80-82 switch over year IIRC) used York compressors so they have different hoses, dryer and evaporator. I am have the York year truck but will run the 83> compressor like I pictured so I think I will have to make hoses to fit from what I am leaning. If I was you I would get another compressor like you have, brackets can be hard to come by so I found out, and either flush or replace the evap / condenser, replace the dryer, and go from there. Dave ----

At 1 time I also used diesel oil, in drag car, because it had more zinc but you now have to watch that as the newer oil they have also lowered the zinc like the gas oil. Now why I don't run it is because of foaming. Look at what RPM diesels work at. My work truck will not go over 1800 RPM, 75 MPH is 1500RPM, where a gas motor is running over that going down the high way. That crank is just beating the oil into foam and the oil pump cant pump foam. I will stick to gas oil and add a bottle of zinc if needed. My .02 Dave ----

One thing I did not see on the over head shop lights is the working temp they can be in. My garage is not heated and the old school over head lights were installed to work at low temps. It takes a min. or 2 to come up to full light out put but they do come on where some will not if to cold. It can also get over 100*, was 98* yesterday so the working range would be say 30*f to 100*+f. I also don't remember seeing what type of light, day light / cool white / etc.? If you do a lot of painting and color matching you want day light so it should match better when out in day light. Being my lights are 5 years old I am not going to change them out any time soon. Beside they are a little to high for me to be comfortable doing any re-wiring. Had to do 1 bal. and that was not fun at all! I have given up on the old drop light. besides getting hot and burns you, you drop it, even with ruff service bulbs, they blow out and you are now look for a new bulb. I do have a LED I picked up at HF a while back and works great. Has a hook to hang and a magnet and if you drop it, it keeps working! It also has a plug outlet so I can plug something into it like a drill, etc. That is about all I have for lighting in the garage. Dave ----

I used ATF in my P/S system when I replaced the box with a Blue top box. I followed their paper to a T on flushing and then bleeding the air out of the system. No issues at all and I got about 4000 miles on it since Nov 2019 Dave ----

So true you are best to replace everything if you can or do a vary good flushing. Not knowing what the HR980 compressor looks like I Google it and did not get a good picture but looks to be used on Mustangs 84 - 86 that I had seen. You can try Ebay or Amazon for it. What motor is this bolted to? Never mind I see its a 300 six. Can you post a picture of the compressor and how the dealer mounted it? Dave ----

I am not a fan of DeWalt after returning 3 sanders for not working out of the box. Well the 3rd did work long enough to get the job done and that was not long at all. I like the IR and they are a well known company. It could be the 2 stage that makes it draw a little more on start up? What do the other draw on start up? Same HP motors? I have no clue when my 2 stage draws on start up I should check the breakers, yes 2. There is also nothing wrong with more CFM for the same PSI. Bigger is better in this case. edit: I had to close up the garage so I looked at the breakers 2 - 50 amp 8HP motor 230 volt 30 amps 3450 RPM Snap-on® BRA8180V 1-Phase Stationary Air Compressor, Dual Stages, 8 hp, 27 scfm at 175 psi, 80 gal Vertical Tank If I ever get it to run 100% duty I got a big leak some where I should also say add another $4000 to your price and that is what mine goes for new. I got mine off Ebay for under $1000 used Dave ----

Scott - That was a good idea, but I'll go you one better if you've got the nerve. (Sorry, Jan & Dean.) I just created a new "group" called Email Status Request and can add people to it. That creates a bit of work for me to put people in as I have to copy & paste their handle/email address combo. But that's really a piece of cake to do. And then whenever it changes I'll copy/paste it into a Word document. That should easily keep the # small enough that I can email to it, and probably several times in a day if need be. So now the question becomes where to put the sign-up list? What if I un-pin this thread and create a new thread for signing up and put it here? I'd think it needs to be pinned so people will see it, otherwise new members won't know about it. And, I could add a blurb about it on the Email Notifications tab on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page. Thoughts? Suggestions? As for how a get here, I have the home page (most of the time) opened on my laptop and then go to any posts may have a new posting to. I don't use my phone much to check in as I find it hard to navigate thru the pages and even more so to reply. I find when I reply it opens it in a new window / tab, I answer and then it leaves the window / tab open. This does not happen on the laptop. Phone is using Chrome? (old phone)and laptop (don't ) IE 11 ........ I don't like change! As for being added to a list or not "I" am up in the air, but that is totally me. I have gotten a few of the over cap. MSG and that sums it up pretty good. Is that the MSG that came up the other day when the site was down? As for the site going down the other day I did not know it had as I was working and again hard to navigate site on my phone. Dave ----

I guess it was as it is no longer posted Dave ----

For me that is a lot more work than I want to put into a dash. I also don't know if you could paint the dash in the color you want and then flock it and have the color show or can only be done in black? The only thing I wished I did to mine after I installed the toper and used SEM to color match the other panels I should have used a flat clear so it would not shine off the windshield as I have had that happen. I have a dash pad I trashed trying to see if the topper would fit better, it did not and why it is trashed. I have the supplies to try and fix it using a thin blanket and fiber glass rosin as seen on the web. Other than time and a little bit of supply's if it does not work out OH well. Once I have the shape and ready for paint I plan to use a spray can of spray on bed liner, roll on does not work as I did try it before. Once the liner is dry I can then paint it any color I want. I will do a write up when I get to this. It is to be in the 90's here this weekend so don't think I will be in the garage much. Maybe a in the fall when cooler. Dave ----

And ball joints for an 81? Should have king pins Dave ---- Only the early 1/2 ton 4x2, 80-86 F250-F350 4x2, and 86-1991 F350 4x4's had kingpins. Everything else is ball joint. 81 is pretty early as both of my 81's had king pins and the kicker 1 of each size they made for the years and nothing can be swapped between them:nabble_smiley_cry: Dave ----

Yes he is. When I dealt with him on my AMC HVAC kit many years ago I knew he did this part time I did not know he went full time. I can also see where this virus just flooded him with orders because guys & girls are stuck home so why not rip in to the HVAC or what ever else he does gaskets for. Dave ----

And ball joints for an 81? Should have king pins Dave ----

Why would they use screws & glue it? Do you see screw holes on the roof and the old seal? Wouldn't the screw heads then hit the bed rails and keep the seal from sealing? I think I would just glue it onto the roof. When I was young and dumb I had 1 4x4 that the roof could be removed and it leaked after that. Much older I bought new a truck you could remove the roof but I never did as I did not want it to leak. It also had carpet where the first did not. That's just me Dave ----

Get one of them motors that turn a crank window into electric that fit the crank spline. You might be able to use the wiring to work the motor and if it gave out remove it and use the handle. Because it would be in the out side you would need to make a cover to keep weather off it. Didn't Jeep have the wiper motor outside in the early years? Dave ----

I ran the numbers many times between the T18, ZF if I could find one, NP435 and the TQ Splitter. When I found the NP435 and having a lower 2nd gear, dose not feel it, than the T18 that was the way to go with the over drive. I could not find a ZF and with the AA OD ($1600) and drive shaft ($330) I am under $2000. I don't think you could find a ZF and all the parts (I have linkage clutch) for $2000. I would like to know how many use the syncro granny in the T19? Most of the time you are using it to take off from a stop so would not need the syncro granny. With the little bit of driving I have done since the OD install if I was pulling heavy loads most of the time I would go with a lower (higher number) rear gear over the 2.75 I have now, may be a 3.25 or 3.55? I have not run them numbers as I don't plan on pulling heavy loads most of the time LOL. I will have to go back thru was this a 4x4 and what does the PTO work? was PTO on the C6 and how was it installed? Dave ---- edit: I see it is a 4x4 Bronco did it have a PTO and for what?

I also remember reading something about that but I have never had a dist. apart to see this. I wonder if where the pin goes is only lined up one way as said but you where to flip it over it is now off. I can see this if the pin is not lined up with a high point or in the center between 2 high points? If it was off center of say 2 high points when installed 1 way it would be lined up but flip it and it would not be. Wonder if this is what is meant? Dave ----

Well said. I bought an install kit after I got the compressor (used off ebay) and the kit came with a braided flex line from tank to ? I got it to my air dryer. It also came with rubber pads. At first I was going to use old rubber truck tires you find on the side of the high way. They are free and I like free The pads did make it a lot quieter and I don't have it bolted down, has not moved. I don't get much noise for the air intake even being at the other side of the garage with me. Then again I also have the radio speakers going and they are closer to me when working. I did put a ball valve on the bottom of my tank but did not get it out from under the tank, BIG MISTAKE! I do have to reach under fish a little to find it and because the line out of the valve leaks gets on the hand I do drain it before each use along with the drip legs on the drier. Dave ----

Thanks guys I like the way the carpet fits under the last lip so I did not have to fight long screws thru the carpet into the pan. The carpet & mats are not perfect but for free I am not complaining at all. And being the carpet was used it had the seat & belt holes already so just had to deal with the shifters. The carpet came from a auto truck so the hump was not that high but I also think if it was for a stick the hump might have been to high? That was 1 reason why I made the pan low and figured I could cut the carpet to fit around the trans tower and cover it with a boot like I did. Other than the OD boot not sitting the way I wanted I think it looks like a factory install like the other little custom things I did to the truck. Thanks again Dave ----