FuzzFace2

I have had my Blue Top installed since Nov. 2019, got to have over 4k miles on it and I am vary happy with it. IIRC it was cheaper that the Rad Hat (also heard the RH was having QA issues at the time), shipping was fast, came packed great and with instruction on how to flush & bleed air from the system and a return label for the box. I would not think twice about going with Blue Top again, I am vary happy with it. Dave ----

I did think of welding a nut on to what might be left but it looks like the stud is below the head surface and would be hard to weld to just the stud and not the head and why I did not say anything about welding a nut on it. Yes heating just the head, not the stud, should expand the head area keeping the stud cool and smaller and hopefully come right out. As said be vary careful with the EZ out. With the reverse drill you may get lucky and it will back out just drilling as maybe someone broke it going to tight? Drill, a little penetrate oil and easy with the EZ out if it does not come out use heat on the head. Go easy again on the EZ out. May want to do the heat, try, cool, try, heat, etc. a few times as the heating & cooling can break if free too. Dave ----

Oh on the Bricklin the switch from AMC to Ford power I believe was because AMC went on strike and he needed motors and Ford had them. Now I don't know this for sure but I want to say the frame mounts were changed, think they were all welded as I never looked that close at them on an AMC power car, not that you could see them from up top LOL. So he would have just made that little change to drop in the Ford motor. You may want to look into CJ5 & CJ7 motor mount kits as I think someone made Ford frame mounts to drop in the 302 into them. Your frame I am sure is a little wider than the CJ's, cant remember now its been so long playing with the CJ's and 73 or 74 Wagoner, but want to say Jeep just made 1 of the frame mounts a little longer on 1 side for the Wagoner to fit the AMC motors in. I also want to say the frame mounts bolt in. If you could get a kit for a CJ you would just need to do the same, 1 side longer. Dave ----

On the NP229 transfer I want to say it will be a full time 4x4 case and no locking hubs or even a front axle disconnect but could be wrong. I also want to say if the above is right it is a single speed case, no low gearing. When you flip the (vacuum) switch a (vacuum) motor moved the lever on the case to "lock". IIRC one of the GM cases was like this but you moved a shifter stick, but think it also had a low range. It would have a high & high lock, think neutral, low & low lock - no locking hubs. If a drive shaft was removed the truck would not move unless shifted to "lock". I also want to say the transfer case did not have a GM / Chry / Ford / Dodge pattern as they used an adapter between the transfer case & transmission. This adapter would have the transmission side pattern, in this case for the TF727 transmission tail shaft housing. Note: this AMC TF727 is a Chry TF727 in every way OTHER THAN the motor side bell housing bolt pattern and that is AMC in this case. Also being a 4x4 trans the output shaft is a shorter 4x4 part so to be used in a 4x2 you would need to swap this 4x4 output shaft out for the 4x2 and tail housing to go with it. So with that said how much of what I said of your transfer case is true of the single speed and no locking hubs? If you want a low range you might look for one that has it and needing locking hubs, change yours for locking type for better MPG. Does Novak or Advance Adaptors make any adaptors & spud shafts for the AOD or EAOD and if so to what transfer cases? I think this is where the trouble will be to mate the transfer & trany together. Dave ----

When you do drill it out use reverse rotating bits this way if it comes loose when drilling it will back out. The hardest part will be drilling it in the center, start small and work up in size. Maybe drill it out a little and spray it and let it sit a day or 2 to work in. Being on the end it looks like you could also use heat on the head to expand that area around the broken bolt. Maybe heat & let it cool a few times before using the EZ out on it. Dave ----

If it is the light that is staying on do like most do ............ Pull the bulb Dave ----

That would be the best way to get the needed parts for both 4wd & the harness. Note if you want dual tanks that starts with the part of the main (in cab) harness and the frame rail harness. Don't think you would need to run both thanks if you did not want to but you may have to use a jumper at the plug where the switch would be to get the fuel gauge to work as both senders go thru the switch before going to the gauge. Dave ----

If I read his first post he wants to add a factory tach to an 86 truck (5.0) that has lights not gauges. I wonder if he wanted to keep the lights and his harness if he could add a tach to his cluster and run the wires off the studs of the tach gauge to where they need to go for it to work? Not even use a tach cluster board as his cluster would not work because of the different number of pins. Dave ----

A little late to the party but you can try https://www.mcmaster.com/ Dave ----

Pintos where worst than Gremlins FYI Gremlins were the only compact car you could buy from the factory with a v8 motor and was a 5.0 (304) at that! That gauge, if it stopped working for both tanks it would have to be something common like the switch or the ground as I think the same grounding point is used for both. If just 1 tank then I would look at that tanks plug & sender. Dave ----

The AMC group I am with has the "horses ass" trophy that is also passed on each year at GAD (Great Amc Day) drag and show in Ohio. The holder of the trophy would call some other racer out for a 2 out of 3 race and the loser got the trophy to hold for the year. I had it for 1 year and the guy I called out did a lot of work to his motor and the race was not even close! But he was kind enough to take the trophy as it was not really a far race at that point. And yes it was the back half of a horse LOL Dave ----

John, you may want to look over this post as I think it will help you test & figure out what could be going on with yours. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Another-dual-tank-guage-problem-td74590.html In short I would check with a test light at each sender if you get a blinking light. If you do then check the ground at the same plugs, test light between the 2 wires it should blink and if so all is good to the senders. When checking make sure you have the dash switch to the tank you are testing. If no blinking light you need to work forward. There is a harness plug under the brake booster by the frame rail & floor board. Unplug that and test for the blinking light, you should have 2 wires that blink, 1 for each tanks when switched. If still no blinking light you need to get to the tank switching switch and check there. You should have a blinking wire going into the switch and 2 coming out when the switch is switched. That is if it is set up like my 81 is and I think yours is with the pump on the motor. It get a little harder to test if you have in tank pumps and that crazy switching valve but you should still have blinking test light at the senders if everything is good but the senders. Dave ----

I did not know they had a door that opened to let more air in. The 76 E350 van I had with a 460 / C6 did not have a door (I am sure of) or cold air from what I remember but that was a long time a go on the cold air. I was going to say I thought all the newer trucks came with cold air inlets and even more so on the EFI trucks. Dave ----

Looking good I think why the wheel was wood and not gray is the cruise. Cruise I think installed on the upper end trucks that had wood and the wheel would also. Now being on a lower end truck with out wood on the dash but has cruise the wheel only would be wood. That is my story and I am sticking to it Dave ----

IIRC the ground wire for the rear of the 82 or 83> trucks runs to the fire wall behind the radio as a bunch go there. I am pretty sure the 80/81 trucks don't have this ground and things ground to the frame or somewhere else on the body. I know my 81 does not have this "behind the radio" ground but has a bunch on the firewall in the engine bay side. Also how is the ground from the battery to motor / frame / body? If the frame or body ground is in question that could be the issue. Dave ----

Ok it sounds like you have a good plan. LOL Did Ford ever have a 2 snorkel 460 filter housing or was it just on the HO 302 / 351 motors? What was done for the EFI motor you are copping, if I under stand you right, for the air filter for your install? Playing is anything more than factory needed if not turning high RPM's? I would think if running 5000 RPM and up 90% of the time then something would need to be done. Also if that worried on flow have you looked into how close the lid is to the top of the carb and if it hurts the flow of air? Yes this can happen more so with drop base filter housings to clear the hood but wanted to put it out there it can be a thing. Man I am glad I have a little old 300 six that can flow air Dave ---- ps what filter housing was used on the dyno test?

Our off road race team "Nuts Racing" we had a broken part trophy, it was made from the part that was broken when racing. The transfer case adaptor was a big one of some of the members till they got the suspension & drive shafts figured out. The other was a Ring & Pinion. They do look good Dave ----

The engine bay does look good On the air cleaner - me thinks it is more trouble than its worth to have the 2 snorkels. Besides hitting the AC hose how do you fill the oil as it is covered or is it just the picture? You also now have 2 sucking in hot air unless piped to the radiator support. But that is me and it is YOUR truck Dave ----

Truck was not complete yet but was not the look I was going for being black. Dave ----

Nice looking truck well done So down the road what transmission, you said 4sp auto or stick?, & motor you looking to go with do you know yet? Dave ----

Thanks they came on the truck but were painted flat black. I used paint remover and then a scrub pad and soap as a final cleaning before new tires were installed. Dave ----

I might as well get in on one of the TOM shows LOL My 81 F100 "Custom" flare side Dave ----

Its not a mutt that is hot roding I saw the 600 lift cam and got thinking that is a large cam for a street truck then saw it will be used at the strip too. Sounds like a cool project. Dave ----

No difference, pull & plug the vacuum line to the dist. set the idle speed and check the timing. You did clean & mark the timing marks before hand so you can see them right? Dave ----

Thanks on the job done. I have been using them for about a month maybe a little longer but made them months before as I did not have a compressor to mount at the time. When I got the full AC brackets I had 2 of them and had them bolted to the main motor bracket. I guess I did not tighten the bolts up on 1 and driving down I heard something bonce off the bottom of the truck and thought I hit something on the high way. Few day later when checking the oil I seen it missing I work for a trucking company that has its own body & repair shop. I kept looking in the scrap trailer and 1 night I seen the alum. plate. Think maybe left over from a dump truck repair? I figured being alum would be easy to work with and thick to not flex. It was not that easy to work with but is thick enough. I was only going to make 1 but the OCD in me could not have 2 different "bat wings" LOL But I was lucky I had the 1 to use as a pattern to make the 2 from alum. If you did not know they should be metal you would never know it. I also enjoy making things like this or the metal ribbed bed floor or the driving lights in the front bumper. I get into a zone, tune everything else out and do the job at hand. Dave ----