FuzzFace2

I also have vents in my non-factory or is it factory AC truck The only thing I wished is they have a knob on the dash so you can open & close them when behind the wheel. Right now you have to open/close the right side before you get in and the left side you have to take the seat belt off to reach the slide. Yes it is an easy "up grade" to a truck that does not have them, You just need the slider panels, remove the non-slider panels, remove the 4 screws holding the metal cover over the opening and fit the slider panels in place. Why I brought it up is the OP said he had factory AC but sliders that the water was coming out of :nabble_anim_confused:Factory AC did not have sliders but I guess someone could have done what we have done. Dave ----

I should point out that I am running EFI exh. manifolds and they do not have a way to run a hot air choke setup so I took the copper tubing and wrapped it around a manifold for heat. It works pretty good so far I just need to adjust the fast idle speed up just a bit. Dave ----

Ok so we are dealing with a 300 six motor and from the sounds of it you have done away with the feed back system with the HEI dist, and non-feed back YFA carb so we can get this thing to run good for you. It also sounds like the choke may not be opening for you when the motor heats up, am I right? If so yes a picture or more would be nice but lets see if I cant help a little. As said try and adjust the choke so a 1/8" drill bit will fit between the butterfly and carb body. You do have the choke fresh air tube & hot air tube going to the carb? The fresh air comes from a nipple near the top of the carb opening. Copper tube with the rubber hose is the fresh air nipple. It then goes down to the bottom of the exh. manifold then out the top. Coat hanger is in the bottom & top where the tubes should be. The hot air side comes out the top and should have an insulating sleve on it going to the carb choke housing. If your steel tubes are rusted Dorman makes a kit to fix this less the copper tubing. Now also know the choke also has an electric hook up from the ALT "S" lug. You can see this wire in the first picture of the fresh air tube hook up. This supplies about 6 volts and you need BOTH the hot air & this electric for the choke to work right. Dave ----

Good to hear it worked out for you and got the wife turned on On the slider vent and AC I don't think your truck is a factory AC truck as it would not have the kick panel vents. Non-AC trucks had the kick panel vents where AC truck did not and that metal plate was screwed over the opening and a different kick panel plastic was used to finish off that area. That is unless someone installed a factory AC fire wall in a non-AC truck and left the non-AC vents in place I guess they could have swapped the vents for the non-AC vents if the truck had factory AC Nice looking "Flare Side" truck (step side is the bow tie name) and us flare side owners like to point it out Dave ----

I had an 86 K5 Blazer with siders and in all the years, 86 - 2002, I think I had them open 2 or 3 times. They are not easy to open & close unless you get into the back seat and that can be a PITA at times. Like when it starts to rain and you are driving and cant pull over right away. Got to get out and come in from the passenger side tilting the seat forward, get in the back and pull them closed and latch them then back out the way you cam in. Dave ----

Lets see this is the NP435 I did bend this a little because of the over drive. This is the T18 handle If you need more I can get them for you. Dave ----

Thanks I may have speed control in my truck yet. After looking at posts for the factory setup with the steering wheel & wiring just looked to be to much work than I wanted to put into it. Thanks Dave ----

I think the "Clark" is a mis-print so is yours the 3sp with over drive or granny first? The granny first transmissions (I18 & NP435) do have a drain plug I am not sure of the over drive one and I cant get to mine at this time to check. When I filled both the T19 & NP435 it replaced I was able to fill it thru the top. The T18 the top cover was off for repairs so I could see the fill plug to know when it was full. The MP435 I had the stick out and was able to fill thru it and the plug out of the fill hole to know when full. I have not messed with the SROD (3sp / OD) trans but pretty sure it cant be done thru the shifter. Dave ----

Hope its not too late! Yes 80/90 gear oil BUT HAS TO BE GL-4 OR LOWER! The new GL-5 gear oil you can get every where will hurt the yellow metal (syncros & bushings) Red Line oil MT-90 meets this and what came with my AA over drive. The oil I added to the NP435 I think I will drain as the trans is hard to shift into 3rd more so when cold and I don't remember this when I first installed the trans. Dave ----

Untill Snow said something I was thinking 4x4 straight axle and coils like they did in the older 4x4's as I thought they road pretty good and with the axle "C" cups you could get different degree to get the specs back in. I like the straight axle as it is more robust for a 4x4 even for street use. I had 230+ miles on my K5 Blazer and other than a few tie rod ends I did nothing to it. My 02 Durango (IFS) with 240+ miles I have done ball joints, 1 hub bearing and Ujoint and I hate how mushy the ride is, like the shocks are always bad. Also the last time I had it on the rack with new tires I was told if it does not hold all the adjustment things would need to be replaced because of rust! You don't have that with a straight axle. Dave ----

Would this also fit other years say like a 81 Also would any year servo work as it is the part that is missing? Now to look up where Eden is from me LOL Dave ----

Davy, you got a picture of your fin tube dryers? Sorry being so late ... why yes I do Air from the compressor comes in on the fitting lower left goes up then back down to a drip leg and the ball valve for draining, then back up and down again to a 2nd drip leg. Air goes out the fitting about half way down that last leg as any water should fall to that last drip leg. I made this when I lived in CT and worked out of a vary small 1 car garage and had it bolted to the side of a shelf unit up at the front of the garage. One day I could not under stand why I was using water tools till I went to check the dryer! It was like 200* back there because of no air flow and the compressor running. I opened a window, it went out under the deck of the house, and added a box fan on the shelf blowing over the fins and that did the trick, no more water. When I moved to NC and got the compressor, dryer and piping set up. when I painted the truck I did set up a box fan blow across the fins just to make sure I would not get any water. Good thing as I for got to put a filter on the spray gun. Also at each air hose drop in my garage, I have 5 drops, they also have drip legs. Dave ----

I was WAY OVER budget so I took the best head light doors and grille that needed less fixing and painted all parts an argent silver. The hardest part was tapping up the doors for painting. That is kind of how my whole truck started If it needs floors & rockers and .......... I might as well pull the whole thing apart and fix it. Other than the used carpet that I did not have at the time the truck was put on the road and did not know of the bad T18, everything was done before it hit the road. Well did forget about getting the AC working Dave ----

K5 Blazer's also had the same thing http://www.blazerforsale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/1976_reno-nv_featured.jpg Dave ----

A few things come to mind off the bat. A hasp mounted to the cab wall. Install unit fold the hasp to meet the unit and lock it in place. Combine this with a locator pin on the bottom tacked to the body there. There is some large plugs so you could even do a bolt as a locator. You could also do the hasps on top and bottom. A pricer option if the metal is suitable is some neodymium magnets. I have 4 Velcro about 6" long across the top & bottom and it aint going no where! I had to pull it out when I installed the carpet I had to really had to pull on the unit to get it to break free. Also note the back wall is just a single thin sheet metal wall. Any screws will show on the outside wall. Dave ----

I can make a lot of fin tube dryers for that money and mine worked great when doing body work & painting my truck. Dave ----

The KC Daylite is marked 150% racing as it is 150% off road only light! The lens is just glass to protect the bulb, it does not have "cut off" to the pattern from what I remember. It is a bright azz flood light! KC also made a square light that was 'off road only" that worked pretty good on dark VT roads at night as that was the only place I could use them going to a buddies cabin. Another buddy had the round Daylighters on his truck that also worked good on the same VT roads. Thing was back in the day when everyone had to have KC's on their truck if you did not have covers on them the police could give you a ticket for having off road only lights ready to use. So when home in CT the covers stayed on till we got off the high way in VT and put the covers on when we got back to the high way on the way home. Dave ----

On the economizer valve do you know where you can get different size ones? If not then there is no need to worry about it. I also have not seen where others that have done this ever changed the economizer valve. On the heat plate: I also guess your doing this because of the EFI exh. manifolds and no heat for the intake? I don't know were you live but you may not need it if it is some what warm but only trying it will tell. Have you seen the plate with nipples you can bolt to the bottom of the intake and pipe hot water to it? I got mine off Ebay but I know of others that have made them. Using the gasket as a pattern cut out a steel or Alum. plate, drill & tap to screw in pipe fittings (street elbo)and hose fittings and you are go to go. Also between the adaptor and the heat plate will the carb be to high to hook up the throttle linkage> Dave ----

I am lazy so I would check if there is a leak there as per Gary using spray. If it is leaking and the motor runs good other wise, the pictures from the plug holes looked good, I would do the Ofy intake / carb / DSII and just enjoy the truck. Dave ----

Little late to the party That looks like the one that I have in my truck, it came with the parts truck. Looks to be a fiber glass / plastic mix as you can see the glass in it. In the parts truck it had thin strips of Velcro to hold in place. When I placed it in my truck every time you stopped or took off it would hit the rear wall so I picked up a roll of wider Velcro to stick it to the back wall. This way if I ever have to remove it I can. I for get what all I have in it now but it is nice to have that storage. Dave ----

Yesterday I took the truck to work, yep had to do a LP load 3.5 hours away. On the way home with a speed limit of 70 MPH everyone does 75 to 80 MPH Doing 75+ MPH in over drive the motor was spinning about 2000 RPM When I got home it did its weekly job ..... trash to the dump Dave ----

As said you need to check just what the cooling system temp as that factory gauges are not great. He would only have a clutch fan & shroud if the truck has AC. Non-AC trucks don't use a clutch fan and only have a small top of fan shroud so the fan will not eat you if the motor is running. If he does have a full AC shroud the fan blades need to be half way or a little more inside the edge of the shroud. Now I have just the reverse of you. My temp gauge only get s up to the 2nd line on the cold side. 2 new 195* stats, new radiator and hoses, new sender and all grounds are good as I made sure when rebuilding the truck. The oil & gas gauges work great. Now I do have AC, new condenser and full shroud I had to come up with. But I am using a non-clutch 5 blade fan and have a lot of air flow thru the front grille using the paper test. Even the IR gun give a good temp so it has to be a gauge issue so I am not going to worry much. Oh the gauge will go up a little more when it is 100* out and I have the AC on and taking back roads home from work but still no where to the center. First you need to see what the system temp is. Air flow thru the grille at idle, does the paper stay to the grille? Being this happens at idle it looks like an air flow issue. AC condenser plugged with dirt? Does the lower hose have a spring inside it? Check when motor is cold. Dave ----

was there even a 5.03 R&P made? That is not a top speed ratio even with over drive. I think they made a 5.13 for the 9" rear axle, don't know if for the 8.8? Any way to take a picture of the tag and post it up? My drag car has 4.56 rear gear and 29" tall tires and at 1000' mark, 1/4 mile is 1320', it would run out of breath at 6000 RPM and 90 MPH. A 4.10 gear would still get me off the line good but lower the RPM and raise the MPH at the 1320' mark. But to change out the gears in an AMC axle is not fun so they stayed in. Dave ----

Nice looking truck. Funny someone said your eyes go to things, mine was the shifter handle (NP435) and then the rear lower moldings thinking if they were the same as short bed trucks but don't think so? Dave ----

Thanks Jim! This old rust bucket has been keeping me plenty busy. I bought the big 10lb? roll of Mig wire a few years ago thinking it would last me a lifetime...lol. With this truck, I don't know about that...lol. Still, I'm having some fun with it. I was in the mood to build and fabricate...well, I'm getting my fill with this thing. Should have gotten the larger tank of gas at the same time Doing a great job, love the front horns its got my wheels turning and right now that's not a good thing LOL Dave ----