FuzzFace2

Nice work Dave ----

Can’t tell from the photos, but Murphy’s should dictate that they are all one piece as that would be the least helpful for me. Worst case I’ll stop by the body shop sometime this week to pick up the parts and figure out a strategy. The glass frame dose come off the main vent window / door glass divider. You undo the nut & spring at the bottom you see in the pictures. Then at the top IIRC there are 2 screws that hold the top pivot to the vent window / door glass divider frame. Once the screws to the top pivot are removed the vent glass frame and be tilted away from the main frame and the bottom pivot pulled from the main frame. Is that the answer you were looking for? To remove the vent frame from the glass I think I would use a cut off wheel and cut it off from the bottom of the "U". Just watch heat that it does not get to hot for the glass but with the felt / glue part between the frame & glass I think you should be ok. I think you can also heat it up to soften the felt / glue that is used to hold the glass in and tap the metal part off the glass. Again watch the heat on the glass. I don't know if you can still get that felt / glue stuff but if you take it to a glass shop and they use the same stuff they use on new cars & trucks for the windshields just note you will need to space the glass out some to take up for the felt not being used. The space will be on both sides and the bottom as the glass will now sit to low in the frame. I will not tell you how I know about this spacing if not using the felt / glue stuff Dave ----

The last oil change I added a qt of ATF, it was low, and only ran it for maybe 10 or 15 min before I dropped the oil & filter. I was going to do the same the other day but did not have the right oil, good stuff and oil leaks is not wise, and no filter Son picked me up a NAPA gold filter but I still need to get oil. If I can remember I will get it and thinking of diesel oil because of what I have heard of it cleaning pretty good. Dave ----

That's what I did with my '84. I grafted a curvy NP435 stick on to an M5OD stub so that my 5spd truck actually looks like it has a 4spd in it. I'm going to do the same thing with the 5spd in the 1980 project truck, but I want to replicate the T-18 shifter that would have been in it originally. Seems pretty straight forward going by the pictures posted. Thanks gentlemen! I have others of the T18 on my web site with the trans out of the truck if you need them. Dave ----

{dont tell any one}yes welded the bolts in from the back side but no bondo as I filled the hole in and ground it down flush. I was looking to have them wrapped in chrome but could not find any one out of 4 shops, that would do it so I painted silver and clear coated them {/dont tell any one} I also added the driving / fog lights into the front bumper as no one sells them like that. They have that front bumper (with bolt holes) for the 70's trucks through LMC. Dave ----

Last thing on the solar panels the company that was installing them was also working on battery storage it just was not approved at the time of install for us. We were more looking to lower our bill at the time but also "save us from our selves" LOL Dave ----

Bumper bolts! We don't need no stinking bumper bolts Bumper looks good on there. What did you do for brackets use the old ones and "make them work"? Dave ----

I figured if I did not get any answers I would pull the cap and I would have seen it was gutted. So I will swap my electric part onto the new carb. UPS has the carb showing up around the 25th Thanks Dave ----

Here is my T18 before the NP435 was swapped in. Here is the NP435. I had to heat & bend it a little to clear the seat because it sits back about 8" from factory because of the Advance Adaptor over drive in front of it. It does have some crazy bends to start with! Dave ----

Sorry I am late try this link https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1472258-efi-manifold-questions.html Dave ----

If you cut the pillars and rear window area down low enough it might be easier for the shop to cut your roof off and weld the other on than do patches. On the vent window frames measure yours and any that you find. There are 2 different frames out there. If you do a search in my build thread under projects for vent window I am sure you will find the answer of how many. The frames between the wing & door glass come thin & thick, think the thick is the later years and told you can use them if you also swap the door glass as it would be skinnier. The thick frame was also longer and I could not fit it in my door IIRC. The wing glass was the same between the 2 frames so I was able to come up with what I needed between my parts, the wrong frames that had the glass frames, and the right frames. Dave ----

The dash pad over lay is nice and cant tell unless you look really close. Dave ----

I did my stander cab flare side without one. No money or head room for a lift in my garage. I was able to lift the cab, stripped other than windshield, off the frame my self. I had plastic horses I could kick under the cab once I lifted it up 1 side at a time. I had to pull the rear axle to clear the horses so I could pull it out from under the cab. On a crew cab it may be a little heavy so a crew to help lift would be of help. Or maybe you can set up a engine crane and a jig made to fit the top to lift the cab off the frame? Guys make a wood jig to fit across the door openings so not to mark the cab roof that fits the crane. I did not care as this cab was toast when I bought the truck, roll over. Dave ---- On the bed I used straps over the rafter beams to lift it on & off the many times for fitting the metal floor to the flare sides. But I first used the crane on the style side bed to get it off its frame. I did not care the crane hit the bed side as the other side was caved it when it rolled and I needed to place the bed on horses so I could trim the sides off and leave the ribbed floor. Here you can see the straps hanging As they say you use what you got and if there's a will there's a way! Dave ----

4. For anyone who has swapped cabs/beds, is it worth it to have a post-style lift? I've considered buying one for a few years now, how much easier would it make this whole endeavor? I did my stander cab flare side without one. No money or head room for a lift in my garage. I was able to lift the cab, stripped other than windshield, off the frame my self. I had plastic horses I could kick under the cab once I lifted it up 1 side at a time. I had to pull the rear axle to clear the horses so I could pull it out from under the cab. On a crew cab it may be a little heavy so a crew to help lift would be of help. Or maybe you can set up a engine crane and a jig made to fit the top to lift the cab off the frame? Guys make a wood jig to fit across the door openings so not to mark the cab roof that fits the crane. I did not care as this cab was toast when I bought the truck, roll over. Dave ----

It does look good I was not to worried on a factory color match with the red as I planed to paint everything. At that point if someone was to say it was not a match I would say prove it. Dave ----

Because I went with EFI exh. manifolds I used Dorman studs & nuts and reused the thick washers. If the bolts were loose I would try and just tighten them and see how it goes. Being y7ou will not have the tube anymore if the manifolds to head gasket needs to be replace even with the carb on you can replace the gasket. Yes been there done that but no shirt to show for it Dave ----

It is on the back side of the fuse box. If you look at the box it has 1 screws that hold blocks to the floor / firewall. The box should slide / pull off them blocks to get to the back side where the flasher is. Then just slide / push the fuse box back on the blocks. Now it may be easier to undo the 2 screws? Dave ----

Thanks for the feed back. Yea I think if it was just a little lower to keep the air from going under the truck would help. Thing is finding the "sweet spot" as going to low may hurt also. I wanted to the beams but my 81 uses kingpins and they don't make them for my truck. I have seen they started but its for the other size pins not mine Next project maybe LOL Dave ----

My wife did not really come around till I had paint on the body and then could see it was a pretty truck. Up to that point it was a money pit sitting in the garage for the last 4 years that I never even got to drive! I think if you could give it a nice bath and a waxing so it looks a little better on the out side she may see what you see .... we hope I found Color Back works pretty good for a quick shine. Dave ----

I am lazy so the unplug and plug in the old is the way I would go after a flasher swap. On my Javelin the only way to get the wires up / down the column was to pull them from the hard plug. Thing was between the new & old switch the colors were different so I had to trace out wires on both switches to make sure the wires went to the same place on the switch before pulling the hard parts off. That is why I asked how dose the switch get replaced and the wire swap. Dave ----

Cant help on any of this but what is the story on solar power? Panels on the roof if roof was built for them, would keep the hot sun from beating down and heating the house that way so less cooling needed. I know you said you have sky lights I would think you could place the panels around them. Again it would be a up front cost but I think you would then get the power needed to run your hose and the mobile home next door. You might get kick back for it too? When we lived in CT we had panels installed on the roof. They could not be put on the "sunny side" because of pitch but added them to the other side. They were installed for free as the company that installed gets the kick back but we got the savings of power not used. I wished I could say what that saving was and if it helped with the sun / heat load during the summer but we moved to NC before the system was up and running. Here in NC we looked into panels but we would have to pay for everything unlike in CT. I do believe it would cut down on the heat the sun puts on the roof of the house so it would be cooler so less AC needed so between less AC and the panels I think we would be in pretty good shape in the payback side. We need to sit down and look this over again as it has been 6 years since we first looked. I can also put panels on my garage and I know what would help in the summer as you can feel the heat come from the roof when you walk in the bays. I also have land I could put them on. Farmers sell or leas land that panel farms are built on as they get more money from that than crops. Dave ----

I am most likely the wrong person to ask about painting the frame and other parts as I had EVERYTHING off the frame and painted it all black after a good degreasing and rust converter. I used a spray gun and laid in on heavy. I was looking to make a nice looking driver with my rebuild project. On the fenders you do have them hard cardboard shims up at the top that will fall apart when removed. I made new ones from rubber floor tile. Dave ----

Carb rebuild kit from Auto Zone under $30 is where I got my 2 kits. If you have it apart that far might as well put the kit in it. Dave ----

Looks like it has good bones to start with and a lot of work, on paper anyway, done to it. I do like the 302 & 5sp what rear gear dose the truck have? So what are the issues that may leave you stuck on the side of the road? First time out for a real ride, 37 miles 1 way to a show at work, in my truck with the wife she asked "what if we break down?" I said you have AAA's number don't you? If everything went as planed we would not have anything to do or ever talk about it would be boring! Dave ----

Bumper dose look nice. You don't find many that still have a plate bracket and light in place! And the light works too Question On that air dam you made did it help any? If not do you think if it was a little lower it might help more? Also if you have any pictures of how you made it and attached it to the truck would help. At mid 14's MPG, working on the fuel & timing side now, I can use all the help I can get. Thanks Dave ----