FuzzFace2

Being it has 4 wires if it was that bad where it has to be replaced I think I would go with a flat 4 male / female trailer plug. They are pretty water proof so should stay clean. They are also cheap. Dave ----

I should give a little back ground on my truck. Note anything built after Sept is the next years model. It started as a 11/80 F100 Flare Side making it a early 81 model. All the wiring is from my parts truck that is a 02/81 F100 Style Side long bed, also an early 81 model. I needed to use the parts truck harness because of the duel tank is not a add on but built into the main & frame harness. I also thought the AC harness was built in but it is a add on. Neither truck had the ground inside the cab on the firewall by the radio. If they did I dont remember it in either truck. So if your truck is an early 81 it may not have that firewall ground either. But like I said of the tach install it was a bolt in and worked where if it was a true 80 model I dont think it would have worked? For the most part I never looked at the EVM for my truck as I did not need to. I did have help from here on wiring the blower fan switch, radio plug, they were cut out, and wiring in a clock as the clocks have 3 different plugs over the years and the clock I got off Ebay did not match my trucks plug. I was lucky that my parts truck harness was in great shape so all I did was remove it from 1 truck, clean & checked it, and installed in mine. I did not have a flare side tail light harness but did have a good style side harness so I used it to make my flare side harness. When you do a 4 year cab off frame rebuild there is not a part that was not touched LOL Dave ----

I am pretty sure the 80 uses a different plug wiring to the cluster than the others and were the colors do not match. Also want to say the wire count is different but not 100% sure as it could be between gauges and lights for the clusters? I also say the 80 is different because when I installed the tach & printed backing into my non-tach truck it was from a later year truck and it was a bolt in. I did not have to go switching or plugging in wires either, worked out of the box as they say. Could check LMC on the printed boards and see what years they list it for. I still think the 80 is the 1 year only for the wiring of the dash cluster. Dave ----

60 MPH would be good if that is what your high way speeds are. Around me the speed is 65 to 70 MPH and NO ONE drives them speeds! At 75 you get run over but I try and stay at the 70 MPH limit. MY truck also gets a little better MPG at 70 mph speed even with the over drive. 81 Flare Side NP435, 2.75 rear gear, 0.27 over drive (advance Adapter). The RPM at 65 in over drive is the same speed in direct at 55 MPH, about 1800 RPM. I do have a 2.47 rear that was in my parts truck that had a SROD over drive transmission. Dave ----

If yours are not broken they say you can use rubbing compound to polish them. No I have not tried this as any of the lenses I had were broken, missing or faded. Flare side tail lights I bought new as they were the ones broken or missing. The front side markers were faded. Think I got them from LMC or Dennis Carpenter and came in Ford bags and markings. Dave ----

Jim I think only the 80 is different as most of my 81 looks to be the same as others when I have looked. What is different has been where some of the grounds are and I think that was mostly for the tail lights. Think the EVM has the ground for tail lights coming from inside the cab on the fire wall where my 81's were at the lights and did not have a ground wire in the harness. I wonder if you have a bad connection under the hood and it got wet and started working? I think there is the tach wire by the IGN box that sometimes needs to be plugged in. What if you were to pull it apart, clean it and stick it back together and fingers crossed it works. Dave ----

Who puts a goose neck hitch in a 150 truck? Just never seen it in that light of a truck as most are on 350 and some 250 trucks. I guess the hitch weight would be lighter over the axle as some goes forward to the front axle where a bumper pull is all aft the axle and would add more weight for the same weight of the trailer hitch. Do you know what kind of trailer it pulled, horse, open deck, other? Dave ----

I think I used this one from my parts truck as I tried to use the one that came with my truck and I pulled some of the pad apart thinking the cover would fit better ........ it did not I would say if where the cracks are are raised up to trim them or sand them flat so the cover will sit flat to the old pad. Also wash the pad a few times and let it dry good before gluing the cover on. BTW I had to graph part of my trucks non-AC dash on to this AC dash as it the PO cut / broke it to get the radio / HVAC controls out. Look at the bottom in the center. Dave ----

Nice job on a "get me by" fix, kind of like my bolt welded to what was left of the pivot LOL. The only thing I see with the "fix" is it looks like the Zbar is to the frame pivot to far. If you were to hold the motor pivot up I think you will see the Zbar is almost falling off the pivot. Or is it just the way the picture was taken? I think there is a clip that fits the Zbar so it cant move to far to the frame side? This is what that bushing looks like - kind of round to allow for movement of the motor. I should get a picture of mine now that it is working as the factory wanted it to. Dave ----

When I "fixed" what I had I did not have the spare for measuring. also if you look at the fixed one it does not have the flat base that would hit the block when screwed in. Gary pointed out that the threads most likely bottomed out and that put strain on where the threads were welded to the old pivot. Jonathan could and I guess I could too if I can find the old parts, where that snap ring groove is and the wall the plastic bushing hits at the other end. I also dont know if the taper is really needed? I think if that area was just turned down some so when the motor moves the Zbar would not bind in that area. I just cant get out to the garage to find the old parts for a day or 2 Dave ----

Thanks I will have to wash the truck before the weekend as there is a show about 5 miles from the house. Its at a church and it will help local food bank. Dave ----

I went with a cover from someone that did not use it. I think it looks good and am happy with it. Unless you look for it you would never know it is a cover. Dave ----

I have not said anything because I am speechless Great job Dave ----

I hope I got the coolant leak fixed. I did find 1 clamp loose. Could only get a wrench on it and a 1/4 turn at a time. Our car club show was canceled because of the weather / rain, but there was another show 45 miles away rain or shine so off I went. It rained on & off most of the way there so I had the AC on to keep the glass clear but because it was cool out I had the temp turned up some. When I got to the show and parked there was a big puddle from the AC, think it iced up and was melting. So if I still had a coolant leak I could not tell. About 40 nice cars & trucks showed up even with the threat of rain, it did not rain at the show. I got a 2nd place but I dont know what class as they where not calling out classes, not marked on the forum or the plaque. There was 1 90's F250 PU and 60's chevy 4x2 and a 58 Chevy 4x4, both chevy's looked like they rolled off the show room floor. Because it was held in Mt Olive every one got a jar of Mt Olive pickles, a goody bag with the normal stuff and a baggie full of candy and a dash plaque. I may have some new members joining our club that I talked to at the show too. I was the only one from our club to go as some were with out power from the storm but had a good time. Dave ----

If it really gets to me I may give that a try. Again just worried when I get the mirror back on and I know I will need to adjust it it will snap the mount. I will have to take a picture if I can of the one that broke as there was not a lot of meat of the part that broke. On the clutch finding a "good" machine shop is the problem. The only one around is the one that messed up the kingpin bushings and now that I dont have a NOS one they can take measurements from or a blue print to go off of they would have a fit I bet. If I was thinking before I needed the NOS one I used I should have made blue print drawings so someone would have something to go off of Maybe I will get lucky and someone will find one for a good price on Ebay I can get and then see if they can make a few but I am not going to hold my breath LOL I went with Rock Auto. I have a miss matched of parts to make the system whole. The evap coil, dryer, condenser and some of the hoses are 81 but the compressor is for a 85 300 six with a vbelt. Because of the 2 different years of parts is why some hoses are for 81 and others for the 85. If I went local most of the prices were higher and also had a wait time so figured why not go with Rock Auto. Dave ---- Little up date more than anything. The AC has been blowing cold since July so fingers crossed it stays that way. I would use the truck to / from work as the cab is smaller to cool off in on the really hot days. The clutch linkage has also been good since using the NOS pivot on the block side. Also been using it for the weekly trash runs and hitting shows and Cars & Coffee's with the car club I am am a member of. The last show the truck marked it's parking spot. Think 1 of the heater hoses at the vacuum valve to close off water to heater core was leaking. Out of the 7 cars the club had at the show not 1 of us had a screw driver LOL I just loosen the radiator cap so it wold not drip and for the ride home. And of course I for got about it before I did the trash to day Being we are kind of locked in because of storm Ian and if I can remember I will look into it tomorrow. I would like to change the oil as I think it is due but with the rain and no glass in the car in my garage I cant go switching them around.I have also been working 1 weekend day and shows the other and 14 hour work days dose not leave time for the truck other than shows. Dave ----

Here is what the inner fender looks like painted You might be thinking of the plastic inner wheel well. That is a different part that also bolts on to the fender wheel opening lip. Dave ----

That is a big change from 33" to 29" Why not go to a 10.5 x 30 x 15 tire? It would fill the openings a little more but not be so large to be a PITA like the 33's. I dont think I would go 29's unless the openings were not cut open for larger tires but thats me. Dave ----

Jim is right on how the PMR starter is wired and my drag car is wired the same way with out any issues. You like so many other go for the cheap solenoid and it comes back to bite you. I knew of this issue and when mine started acting up, would only get a "clunk" from it a few times before it would start. All my cables were new from rebuilding the truck and not even 2 years old. I also cleaned all connections again before I replaced the solenoid. I replaced it with top of the line NAPA solenoid and have not had any issues since. BTW the solenoid needs to have a good ground to the inner fender. Dave ----

I am playing catch up on older posts. So what is the problem as I dont under stand what it is? You checked the needles with no gas in the tanks and they were below the E line. Then you added 5 to 8 gallons to each tank and the needles moved up to the E line. So what is wrong? When the needles are on the line for E you have a reserve of 5 gallons if I under stand it right. I did the same thing on my truck, no gas in tanks needles below the E line. 5 gallons in each tank and the needles come up to the line. So when the needles hit the line I got 5 gallons left in each tank. I run off the front tank first and may run it down to the line but the rear tank I dont go that low just in case I cant get to a station. BTW with the tanks full the needles are above the F line and I dont care where the needles rear full but do when it get close to empty. Dave ----

Seeing it is in the center where the hood latch is some of the things I would check is the latch assy. It is bolted to a bracket that runs to the bottom of the support and should be bolted there, is it tight? Next would be the hood bumpers. On the 80 - 86 trucks they have bumpers that adjust in each front corner. Do they hit the hood? If not the hood can be moving up & down when driving and you not see this and it would be pulling up & down on the latch and flexing that center part. Also if this adjustable bumpers are up to high can be pulling up on that center part and road vibration would cause that. IIRC there are also rubber "rub pads" a little farther back on the fenders to keep the hood from flexing in the center and moving left & right. Are they hitting the hood? That is all I could think of at this time and not seeing it in person. Oh if you are going to weld it again I would weld it like you did then grind it smooth and then weld sheet metal across the front & top and maybe the back side to reinforce that area, like a fish plate deal. Dave ----

Sorry to hear yours broke. I came up with the 9/16-12 by taking what was left of the pivot part out of the block and taking it to the local hardware store and matched it up with a bolt and found the thread size / pitch. How where the plastic bushings on that pivot and the frame side pivot? Also check the rod from the pedal to the cross bar for wear. Each time mine broke I was able to use a pick and unscrew the threaded part out of the block. I believe the threaded part dose not bottom out and why you can just unscrew it. A quick run down of my failed fixes. I bought 2 bolts of the right thread size / pitch for the threaded part and cut the head off 1 bolt. I then tried to weld it to the pivot part. Did you see "tried"? the weld did not penetrate really good and it broke again. I used the second bolt and did almost the same thing but this time I used a roll pin and drilled the threaded part and the pivot in the center. I also welded it again. This time it lasted longer put the weld still did not penetrate and I thought I turned up the juice more? The NOS one I used this last time I got off Ebay a few years earlier and did not have time to get measurements before I had to install it as I had a show to take the truck to. The last one that was posted on here was $150 if I remember, way to much for a spare. IIRC the total length from the outer most part of the pivot to the end of threads was 3 inches but would need to check that. I think if you get the threaded part out of the block and put it to the pivot you should get the length. It was also said that if you had the machines you could make 1 or a bunch from hex bar stock. The hex stock so you had a way to tighten it into the block but I can't see why you can't use vice grips if you used round stock? I dont know if what I posted will help or if I could be of any more help? Dave G aka FuzzFace2 I just checked that ebay list from July 17 https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Clutch-release-pivot-stud-E0TZ-7A535-A-NOS-td121764.html And the part is sold out but it list the part number and has a good picture of what it should look like when it is 1 piece. Dave ----

Sorry to hear yours broke. I came up with the 9/16-12 by taking what was left of the pivot part out of the block and taking it to the local hardware store and matched it up with a bolt and found the thread size / pitch. How where the plastic bushings on that pivot and the frame side pivot? Also check the rod from the pedal to the cross bar for wear. Each time mine broke I was able to use a pick and unscrew the threaded part out of the block. I believe the threaded part dose not bottom out and why you can just unscrew it. A quick run down of my failed fixes. I bought 2 bolts of the right thread size / pitch for the threaded part and cut the head off 1 bolt. I then tried to weld it to the pivot part. Did you see "tried"? the weld did not penetrate really good and it broke again. I used the second bolt and did almost the same thing but this time I used a roll pin and drilled the threaded part and the pivot in the center. I also welded it again. This time it lasted longer put the weld still did not penetrate and I thought I turned up the juice more? The NOS one I used this last time I got off Ebay a few years earlier and did not have time to get measurements before I had to install it as I had a show to take the truck to. The last one that was posted on here was $150 if I remember, way to much for a spare. IIRC the total length from the outer most part of the pivot to the end of threads was 3 inches but would need to check that. I think if you get the threaded part out of the block and put it to the pivot you should get the length. It was also said that if you had the machines you could make 1 or a bunch from hex bar stock. The hex stock so you had a way to tighten it into the block but I can't see why you can't use vice grips if you used round stock? I dont know if what I posted will help or if I could be of any more help? Dave G aka FuzzFace2

What mirrors dose the truck sport? There is a metal tap? that runs from the inner panel to the outer door skin. This tab is by the vent window down post IIRC This tab supports the outer door skin because of the heavy mirrors. With out this tab the outer skin will flex and crack. It could be this tab is broken but has not cracked the skin yet and when you hit bumps it is flexing and making noise. Also the vent window post has a bolt to then inner panel to support it. If this bolt is loose or the tab on the post broke loose this could be making noise. Also check this bolt washer that it has not cut the panel where it is bolted to. Dave ----

Do I see a flare side peaking out from the picture? What motor & transmission dose the truck have? Dave ----

Sorry a lot late on this but on the 4 hi shifter popping out can you use a bungie to hold it in gear? When I raced Jeeps off road we used bungies to hold the shifter in 4 low. Dave ----