FuzzFace2

I cant answer that question but if there is a junk yard with a 94 in it measure it and see how it mounts that do the same to yours. Now I am going to say if it does "bolt in" I cant see it working any better than what you have now. I say this because to cool that big old cave takes a lot of BTU's. That is why they put rear HVAC systems in larger SUV's and vans. Even my 02 Dodge Durango has a rear system and when not working as it should I can tell, both heat & AC. Dave ----

I also saw that on Rock Auto site on the booster sizes. Between the booster the master and lines I will be using the factory stuff again in my truck. Good luck on this part of your project. Dave ----

Well that answers that question Guess I will stick to the "car show" setup Thanks for the information Dave ----

Ok if it was advanced to far then on restart it would have kicked back maybe even on first start. To me it sounded like it was not firing on all cly.? You can try and giving it a little advance and try and start it again to see what happens. It may work but I dont know? Now if it starts and still sounds the same don't run it too long to get the exh. manifolds hot. I would say only long enough to tell if it sounds better or not and I will tell you why. Here is why, motor off feel the manifolds at each port close to the head. If that cly. is firing it will be warm / hot, if not firing it will be cool / cold. Again you don't want to run it too long or this will not work. Once you know if they are all firing that is good and we have to look else where for the reason it runs poorly. My guess you will find acly. or 2 not firing and if so recheck firing order as I think you have 2 wires crossed. Dave ----

What I'm saying is I don't think you'll be able to buy a pre-made "kit" with all the lines you need because it'll be custom - not factory. All the trucks with the Aluminum MC/RPV had ABS, and you don't want to add that. So the front 3 lines will be the later configuration; the rear-rear line will be early. Just get the LHF hose that matches the lines you get. LHF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQTLNE (with T) RHF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CLMAEQ (all '80-96) Rear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0VVFI (all '80-96) Steve, Why the change of the front hard lines & hose if going with the 87 up alum. master & booster? Is it because you are also using the PRV from that same system that also used the ABS? If one wanted to just switch the two 80-86 MC lines could they? Does the alum. MC have metric ports on it or has different size fittings than the old steel MC and why the change? I also have to replace the MC & booster on my 81 and it would be nice if I could just bolt up the alum MC with booster and switch the lines and not have to re-bleed the system again because of the line change out. Dave ----

The in-dash box can stay; only the underhood box has to be changed to use the factory '94-96 evaporator. https://supermotors.net/getfile/978974/thumbnail/evaps.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1089927/thumbnail/evapcovers.jpg And it's pretty easy to change, even when the truck is assembled & driveable. I've done the swap without losing any coolant or refrigerant. Sucks, but the factory parallel-flow condenser is vastly superior, and a worthwhile upgrade to any older system. Especially if you can find a complete JY system locally. https://supermotors.net/getfile/967466/thumbnail/29hood.jpg Is it the conglomeration of fittings in this pic where the "liquid line" pointer is? https://supermotors.net/getfile/931420/thumbnail/ac49.jpg Yes it is in the tube of the condenser on the liquid line and the orifice tube is where you have it marked. The new condenser I have mounted in the truck is larger than the old one as I believe it is for 134a used in the later year 90's trucks and why it is not a direct bolt in. From what I have seen posted of 134a conversions in our trucks works pretty good using the factory parts so mine should too. Jonathan pointed out I can use the 83-86 hoses as that is when they also switched to the Sedan compressor but kept all the rest of the system the same. I want to get all the under hood work done (AC) before I put paint on the truck. Don't want to be leaning over freshly painted fenders to do the work! I do want to think everyone that has helped so. Dave ----

Jonathan, thank you let me know what you want for them and your trouble. How did you look up the hoses as I am sure I could not find them for my 81 or did you look up 83-86 parts? If so I wonder if the truck end of the hoses will work with the 81 system? Someone posted to swap over to the later system (full system) to get everything to match, not going to happen LOL Dave ----

Cant help on the brake lines as I took the best of what I had between the 2 trucks to use. I am thinking JBGY gets the lines from 1 of 2 places, Inline Tube or Classic Tube. I did use one of them on my AMC Javelin but I don't remember who's, many years ago. I did replace the rubber hoses, wheel cly., and calipers, lines were drained. I don't think my master, master & booster from rolled over parts truck, was that bad but it did have some mudd in the bottom. I cleaned it out the best I could before bleeding the system. I first used a vacuum bleeder that uses shop air and pulled some dirty fluid first. I still had a low pedal and only pedal bleed did the trick. That is when I found the master & booster were not 100% good so I will need to replace them before truck is on the road. You would think if the truck was being used they would have been good? Dave ----

All the nipples on the WP are "in" to the pump. It doesn't matter which direction coolant flows through the core. But one hose MUST go to the pump, and the other MUST come from somewhere else on the engine (intake). You got a lot done. Good to see you got the converter bolted up right and sounded like with out to much work. You / we going to hear it run this year? Dave ----

Consider using hard nylon tubing. It's corrosion/impact/dry-rot proof, and affordable. With a heat gun, it can be formed semipermanently. https://supermotors.net/getfile/927685/thumbnail/fueltubing.jpg If you can make it pool on the paint & sit for a few minutes, cheap brake parts cleaner will usually remove spray paint. Water, Dawn dish soap, & PurplePower (or SimpleGreen) will usually clean the inside of a tank just by sloshing it vigorously for a few minutes. A little sand will help, too, but it may take some extra rinsing to get it out. I've had success with a big bench vise, but it has to be SOLIDLY-mounted to a SOLID bench. Otherwise, I try to straighten them on the truck: https://supermotors.net/getfile/886389/thumbnail/rear1.jpg I straightened these on the ground, just using lumber (as padding) and prybars/sledgehammers: https://supermotors.net/getfile/921745/thumbnail/bumperr93xlt.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/853045/thumbnail/46hoisted.jpg My technique is to try to apply the same force that bent the bumper, at the same location in the opposite direction. Never gave a thought of the nylon tubing, might be able to get some from work as it is used for air lines on the 18 wheelers I drive. Have to check the wrecks the owner buys for parts as I am sure they will not be using the nylon. The paint was not that bad on the over flow tank it was the dirt inside I did not want to deal with when I had a clean one on the truck with a loose lid. I will give it try on cleaning it so I have a spare if I need one. Being a body man I know how to get the bumper straight and the dent out just did not have big enough tools to do the job. Not having an I beam to use like you hurts that is why I was trying to use the trucks weight to push it straight with shims on the ends to push it pass the straight point and have it bounce back. It worked good for jacking the truck up but that's it LOL The bend is just off the side of the front plate mount so has a lot of different bends, this adds to how hard it is to bend back straight. I just don't know if it is worth the time to get straight for what I want to do with it. I am not totally happy with the other bumper I straighten so why I am thinking new bumper. Thanks Dave ----

A week or so back I was looking for AC hoses and not a lot showed up but I was looking for my year 81 with a 300. I will check both the compressor & hose for the later 82-86 trucks. I have also looked into making my own hoses. Between the hose kit & crimp tool would be about what I think a shop would charge to make them. Just looking over my options right now but with out compressor brackets it is all for nothing. Thanks Dave ----

Well that is not going to happen as I have the HVAC box, after cleaning and dash back in the truck. I also just installed a new condenser. Now what would have helped on the install is that hood latch bracket. I had to space mine out to clear the condenser. I am still working on getting the compressor brackets so at this point I can go either way on the compressor. I have also looked into making my own hoses for the compressor if I use the sedan. Just checking the options I have at this point. Thanks Dave ----

It is not a brass piece, I will have to get a picture of the parts next to the orifice tube. As a guess I would say it is a filter just never seen one in a system before. Dave ----

I forgot 1 tinker thing and it may help others! Back a few months ago when checking the HVAC system at first I could got the doors to work I had no vacuum to the unit (see where I might be going with this?). After checking for supply and moving hoses around and plugging 1 I had vacuum to the HVAC controls. What did I take out of the picture you ask? The metal vacuum reserve can, looks like a small juice can. Yesterday I removed it from the truck to take a closer look and guess what the metal worms did to the metal can? Yep at the bottom on the front & rear ends, it lays on it's side, I found a little pin hole and digging I found it was a lot more than a pin hole. I removed the mounting bracket and also found some pin holes on the bottom side of the can. Now I could hit the junk yard for another metal or better yet a plastic one but my work hours and when they are open don't line up so on to a fix. I sanded the area around the now gap at each end. 1 gap was pretty big so as a filler I used a pin used that you weld to body panels for pulling dents. I then mixed up a small batch of fiber glass rosin and used it to fill the gaps & pin holes. I will add another coat or 2 and when happy will put the mount back on and install back in truck. So if your truck has AC and uses a metal vacuum reserve can, HVAC not working to good and you cant find that vacuum leak, look at the vacuum can. Dave ----

Truck is a 81 F100 with a 300 six and factory AC. When I was replacing the condenser I pulled the hose off the old one that would go to the evap. When I got the hose off there was a orifice type thing in the condenser tube? It is not the orifice tube as that looks to be in the tube of the evap. So could that be a filter? It was clean. If so should I leave it in the new condenser? I will be using anew orifice tube, the old one looks clean also but going from R12 to 143a I should change it. The other question I have is with the compressor. The truck used the big ugly York compressor and I want to switch to the smaller Sedan compressor. I know they make bracket kits for this swap but what do you have to do for the hoses to hook up? I am guessing you cant use the hoses for the York and I am not sure if I can use the hoses from a later model truck as I don't know if they will hook to the condenser & evap. Any one know how this all works out? Thanks for any information you can give. Dave ----

I've driven at night on a hilly, curvy road without the headlights, and those 5-element LEDs under my mirrors worked fine. There was a SLIGHT shadow straight ahead, but I had no trouble seeing, even as fast as I drive. If you don't like their elliptical outline, &/or you want to surface-mount them on a bumper face, check out these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPQV06O They're also available on eBay - probably MUCH cheaper. And those are 6-element. I don't want the add on lights look like they were added like hanging off the mirrors or face mounted to the bumper. A square hole will be made in the bumper, a tab made to bolt the lights to and the lights mounted from behind shining out the holes. The sizes look about right to fit where I want them but they are flood / work lights. I want a light that shines down the road farther. I have Grote LED flood / work lights on my cement trailer and the one down the side is nice to see the valves but the one off the back up high gets washed out not far behind the trailer. Guess it is better than nothing but would not cut it for driving at any speed. The LP gas trailers use 6" round lights and they have a great pattern and a lot of light that is helpful when backing into some of the dark drops we have and down the side for hook up when pumping off load. I just have to do a little more looking till I find what I am looking for. Just think of me as one of them TV car show guys "I want it my way" LOL Dave ---- Did a little tinkering in the garage to day. I wanted to find the AC hoses as I have not seen them since I pulled the parts truck apart back in Dec of 2015. Found them all then the fun was to figure out how they went till I looked at the York compressor and saw the lines come in on the side. In looking for the hoses I found the radiator over flow rubber hose but was a little short to fit right. So I found some 5/16" metal brake line, bent it to fit over the radiator shroud using the rubber hose at either end. I wanted to run the metal line longer but it had some rust on the outside and when bending is cracked so it was cut short. I also looked over the over flow tanks I have. the one mounted is clean but the top is was loose and warped. The other was dirty inside and had paint all over it. Went with the clean one, used a heat gun and got the top straight and fits somewhat tight. May use a clear sealer to make sure the washer fluid & coolant don't mix. I also tried to straighten one of the front bumpers using a bottle jack and the weight of the truck ....... did not work so going to have to come up with another plan. May try taking it to work and see if I can use the press as I think it is outside. Then again I may just use them as practice pieces for the lights I want to add and then get a painted one for $100 to cut for the lights to use? No I will not paint it got another plan for chrome. I am running out of things to tinker with so I don't have to do the rest of the body work. Dave ----

You think Ford is bad then don't try ANYTHING for an AMC V8! Dave ----

I was thinking the same thing, bad ground for the relay. Then you posted that did not work I wonder if you removed it from the truck and using a fully charged battery & jumper cables to "bench test" how it would work? I cant see all of three being bad. As for the brown & white wires not hooked up and the truck runs what DSII module are you using an old Motorcraft or some aftermarket one? I ask because I think I seen posts of the white wire causing a no start or made no difference. Did Gary or anyone say where the BR & WH wires get hooked up to from the factory? Not that I can see them going to the IGN switch would help / hurt? Thanks for the run down. Dave ----

Just trying to wrap my head around this a little. To get it to run you did not hookup the white wire to anything? You removed the brown? wire going to the "I" on the starter relay? You removed the added on resister, hooked the 2 red wires together along with the stock power (resister wire?) wire to the red and all worked? Trying to follow the Ford wiring picture is crazy. I don't know what they were thinking when they made them, you need like 5 other pages! What kept the starter from working, was it 2 bad relays? Dave ----

I've driven at night on a hilly, curvy road without the headlights, and those 5-element LEDs under my mirrors worked fine. There was a SLIGHT shadow straight ahead, but I had no trouble seeing, even as fast as I drive. If you don't like their elliptical outline, &/or you want to surface-mount them on a bumper face, check out these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPQV06O They're also available on eBay - probably MUCH cheaper. And those are 6-element. I don't want the add on lights look like they were added like hanging off the mirrors or face mounted to the bumper. A square hole will be made in the bumper, a tab made to bolt the lights to and the lights mounted from behind shining out the holes. The sizes look about right to fit where I want them but they are flood / work lights. I want a light that shines down the road farther. I have Grote LED flood / work lights on my cement trailer and the one down the side is nice to see the valves but the one off the back up high gets washed out not far behind the trailer. Guess it is better than nothing but would not cut it for driving at any speed. The LP gas trailers use 6" round lights and they have a great pattern and a lot of light that is helpful when backing into some of the dark drops we have and down the side for hook up when pumping off load. I just have to do a little more looking till I find what I am looking for. Just think of me as one of them TV car show guys "I want it my way" LOL Dave ----

Isn't it the way, you get something cool and you then don't have time to play with it. Dave ----

That could be a nice mount if I wanted lights above or maybe below the bumper. I guess I could use rectangular lights in the bumper if not higher than 3". I know LMC makes a bumper for the 73-79 trucks with round and a rectangular that has a fog & driving light in it. I do not know the size of the round light but the rectangular would work where I want them in the bumper. Need to see if they would be to wide to look right in the 80-86 bumper. Dave ----

The tanks are plastic with integral mounts, but the radiator (core) is essentially the same size & shape. I'm pretty sure mine did originally, and I think that's what the last brass replacement was, but I'll try to remember to check it next time I'm rummaging through the junkpile. Right - all brass radiators mount that way in these trucks (up to '84, IIRC). I really like these 5- or 6-element LEDs for everything: https://supermotors.net/getfile/925116/thumbnail/slimled.jpg They look slightly obtrusive there, but they're actually hard to notice on a dark-colored truck IRL. They only stand out in this pic because you're looking for them: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1030715/thumbnail/9328paint10.jpg They tolerate a WIDE voltage range (8-30VDC IIRC); their cast Aluminum housings are VERY robust & durable; they aren't actually sealed around the lens, but it's easy to do with a small tube of E6000; and they're BRIGHT. https://supermotors.net/getfile/925588/thumbnail/slimlfd.jpg I like how the new replacement radiator, plastic side tanks & Alum. core, and the shroud fit together with just the trimming of the lips (1/8" maybe each side). As for the LED light I want a driving / spot light. Work & flood lights do not put the light down the road, more on the sides, so you are always over driving the work / flood lights. Most of my driving is to / from work in the dark when there are not a lot of other drivers. The light cant be higher than about 3" to fit in between the curves of the bumper as I want to mount them IN the bumper, not under or over. Also would like them to be square to match the square head lights. The "bar" type LED lights would not look right and the ones I seen on trucks & cars are more flood / work lights not driving. If I have to I would go with a round light but it is not the look I am going for. I have time before I need to mount the bumper to look for the right lights. Dave ----

I have found new parts cheap on Amazon and I may go that way when the time comes. The only thing you may need to take apart would be the pulleys to swap and space out with a washer. Dave ----