FuzzFace2

You are making mine look like I am just throwing it together with out cleaning or painting anything. Keep doing that Dave ----

Have a few questions that came up trying to help them fig a dash issue. 1 - if a dash has warning lights where are they placed? 2 - if a dash has warning lights did it have a temp gauge? 3 - if it does have a temp gauge does it use a different IVR? I ask because Gary has it posted the IVR puts out a little under 6 volts to the "3" gauges - fuel / temp / oil. So if a warning light cluster does have a fuel & temp gauges would the IVR be different? 4 - if you were to swap in a 4 gauge cluster besides needing to change the sending unit(s) oil and maybe temp, will it plug in and work or need to do something with the charging wiring because of the charge light will now be the ALT gauge. Thanks for the help Dave ----

Thanks for the info on the LMC hardware as I have not installed my mirrors yet. Do you think a little oil or grease would have helped any on the install of the nutserts? Dave ----

I also had a used intake I painted with high temp silver paint and put in the oven to bake. That is when the job all went down hill. I did wash it good and let dry a few days before this painting. When it was baking it pulled up what I call oil and blistered the paint. I had to let it cool off wire brush the flaking paint bake it 2 more times with cooling off between before I painted it again and a final bake. All was fine after that and any time I am going to paint & bake it gets baked a few times before paint goes on. Dave ----

Me too! I'm going to start practicing with the stuff this summer. I need some really dumbed down instructions on where to start. I wanted to buy that How to DVD kit in the back of the LMC catalogs, but it would cost me something $250, and I can buy autobody supplies with that...lol. PS: Looking good Pete! Keep us posted on the progress. Pete, you want to put the red over the white other wise if white over red it can turn pink so I was told when I first started doing body work back in the 70's. Now it could have been the type of paint we used back then, no hardeners? Also know to make sure to paint far enough so you have enough paint at the tape line. I did a 73 Datsun 510 that had body lines down the center. Car was red and I did yellow in the center and then orange on either side. The yellow was put on first, taped off then the orange, taped off and the red. I had a pin striper hand stripe black between the colors and the name of the shop I had at the time on the car. For you guys that have not done body work before we are here to help any way we can and no I will not come and help! I hate body work, don't mind the metal or painting part just sanding the filler part. Pete, it is hard to tell the size of that truck from the pictures as it looks like a full size with some of the body lines I see. Cant wait to see it done in full color. Dave ----

I think it would still work, that outer part just free wheels / spins on the inner IIRC right? How thick is it where you think it would not work with it in place? As far as I know this is the only setup to use something like this all the rest the pump arm rides on the a part like the inner or a cam shaft lobe. Dave ----

Last time I was out to work on the truck it was cold so fire up the heater and got under the truck to look at the bed heat shields. Only under there for a short time and started to feel sick and for weeks now not quite right. Got out there today to finish the heat shield install and as soon as I got under the truck started to feel sick again but worked thru it. Wife is ordering me to see the doctor next week when I see my eye doctor. Got a feeling it is an ulcer and most likely need to go for tests .... oh joy ....not! Anyway I did get the shields installed. I was able to use the style side rear shield as it was and screwed into holes in the cross rails as that is where it came from. Now the front style side shield was to long as I made the bed floor shorter and not lone enough to cover the full area. I cut a section out of the front shield so the front part would screw to the side of the front cross rail and the rear part would screw to the 1 of the middle cross rails using the screw holes for it that were there. When I cut the front section out I left it to over lap about 4". I wanted to do a few spot welds at the over lap but the parts would have needed to washed better and being galvanized would be risky (fumes) so I just screwed the 2 parts together. Sorry no pictures, hard to get them under there and not felling good, didn't even pick up the tools or turn lights off yet. It would be nice if I can get primer on the last fender and get the spray gun cleaned up today. It will feel like I got something done. I think till I feel better it will be slow going on the truck. Dave ----

The way you have it on the back of the cab is the way Ford did it on the flare sides also. Cory (Rembrant) gave me some measurements off the 4x4 truck he just parted out because I could not get it off my truck, painted many times then flat black. My truck will be painted like this one in the same colors as that is how it came from the factory. What I was talking / thinking of was the pin stripe(s). Do I just end it at the base color like I think you did on the rear or do I try and run the pin stripe(s) down to tie into the lower pin stripe? But now that I talk it out and where it would be, behind the bed, why go thru the trouble of joining them just end them at the base color on the rear of the cab. I have to put the white down first or it can turn pink if put over the red so when I tape off for the stripe I will see how just 1 line or more at the top & bottom paint color lines looks. Thanks it helped to talk it out Dave ----

If you find the cable needs lubing it is not hard but you need to remove the cable. Tools: cable, baggie, rubber band and lube of choice. Poke the cable thru a corner of the baggie about a 6" to 12" and pull it back up to the end of the outer part of the cable. Wrap the rubber band around the baggie holding it tight to the cable. Now slide it baggie & rubber band up to the very end of the outer cable. Find a place you can hang the cable from the baggie end for this next part. Pour a little of the lube of choice in the baggie, it does not take a lot. Let the lube work it's way down the inside of the cable. Maybe move the inner cable in and out a few times to work the lube. Also note when the lube makes it's way down it will drip out so have something to catch the drops. Dave ----

LOL I am going to start my 3rd cup of tea with breakfast here in a bit. I did fire up the heater and hope it is a little warmer in there than the 40* when I walked out. It is drizzling, fogy, cold that just goes thru you. Dave ----

My rubber bushings did not look that bad but "when in there" is why I replaced them. Burning them out was pretty easy and would tell others to do the same. When looking for the washers, see your other thread, I found an inner sleeve so thinking no inner sleeve with the harder bushing. Dave ----

I want to say the lower spring retainer washer and the radius arm washers are 2 different OD's? I will go out in a bit to see if I can find the washers, hope they are still on the arms & beams, and see if I can get pictures of them. Dave ---- Well I was off a little and here is what I found. Back ground: from 81 F100 4x2 truck don't know if they were factory or after market? The OD's of both washers were the same (did not measure) The ID's were different (did not measure). The lower spring washer had a smaller ID than the radius arm washer and would not fit over the threads of the radius arm. The only radius arm washer that was cupped was the one closest to the axle / beam (first thing installed on the radius arm) the other was flat. I did see the lower spring washer has a deeper cup by about a 1/4" (not measured) In short: lower spring washer has smaller ID hole and a deeper cup than the radius arm washer. No pictures as it would be hard to show the above. Dave --- edit: I used a wire brush on the washers. With the rust pitting I did not see any numbers or "front" on them.

To remove the rubber part but keep the shell in the arm or beam or what ever you want to call it I used old gas & fire. Mine was a 4x2 truck so the bushings were in smaller end of the beams. I hung the beams from the rafters in a can of old gas and soaked for a few hours. I removed the arms and 1 match they were on fire. As the fire would die down I used an old screw driver to "stir" the rubber and it would flare up some. I kept this up till the rubber was all gone. A little clean up with a wire brush and paint everything before I installed the new bushings. Threaded rod, large washers and some nuts pressed the bushing into place. I cant remembered if I had to use the inner shell but if I did a little clean up on the bench wire wheel and were good to go. I have heard of others that drilled the rubber out but it was work. Dave ----

I want to say the lower spring retainer washer and the radius arm washers are 2 different OD's? I will go out in a bit to see if I can find the washers, hope they are still on the arms & beams, and see if I can get pictures of them. Dave ----

Over time the butyl dries out and looses it's bond to the glass and you get what you have. The rear glass on my 70 Javelin was like this when I went to pull it for the rest-o-mod. Once out you will be able to see what you are working with and as Steve said hit it with a wire wheel. Prep & paint before installing the glass and should be good for another 25 years. Dave ----

I have to ask why do you want to go with the PMGR starter? Most of the time it is to clear long tube headers because they are smaller. Or is it because the later years the PMGR was a factory thing and is smaller? If it is because of size and to clear something I would go with https://www.robbmcperformance.com/ I installed one on my drag motor when the factory size starter, same size & type of the Ford starter, went bad because of header heat. To remove the stock starter you had to pull the header off the head and push it out of the way. The RobbMc is so small I can leave the header bolted to the head. I like that you can clock the solenoid any where because it uses a band clamp not bolt holes that you need to line up and hope the solenoid clears the header or block. I hear service is great from people that needed service, like the gear teeth count not right, I have never needed to use it. I liked it so much when there was a mass buy discount on another forum I got a back up just in case, been on the shelf ever since in came in. Hey its made in the USA! Dave ----

Thanks, I have used the tape before on the back panel of my AMC Gremlin but I had the size for it off a 2nd car. I just could not tell how wide your stripes were from the pictures. Back in the day when the pin stripes were painted we used that tape unless you were really really good to do it by hand. Had a road race car done by hand with the lettering, guy was un believably good. Now days you can buy the Cal-Custom pin stripe tape. I don't know if I will do a stripe like you did, do more than 1 line of each color (red with white center down the sides), keep the same size line if I go more than 1 line each or no line and use pin stripe tape between the 2 colors? I was thinking this in a gold leaf but still thinking on this. Because mine is a flare side how do I "finish" them on the back wall of the cab? Pin stripe tape is easy, then lines like yours, more than 1 line and different sizes gets crazy. Thanks again Dave ----

Yep I think I have an extra set from 1 of the trucks I can get a picture of tomorrow morning if I can find them. It will get my butt out to the garage, fire up the heater wile I look for them to get a picture of. I also think that bolt is more like 1/2" or the next size larger. I had fun trying to fit the wrench in between the spring to get it to 240 lb. Dave ----

As said nice color combo. Cant wait to see the bed on it. How wide is the stripe 1/4"? Looking to maybe do the same when I paint mine just don't know how wide I want to go yet. Dave ----

You sure that is primer it looks to good to be primer On the wrap I have thought about it on mine but I would need to farm that out as I have never done that before. When I paint my truck I can say I have done everything (so far) other than the pressing out / in of the kingpin bushings to the spindles. On the projection head lights will you be doing a write up on parts used, what is needed to install and how they work? I like the projection lights on the wifes Subie but don't know if I would like them on my truck mainly the look. Dave ----

Yes we are. I should have gotten out there today, cold and raining (got to walk across drive to get to my garage) or not as I did not have work. I don't have work again tomorrow and I plan on getting out and get something done. I also should go thru all the bins I have parts stored in to re-fresh me what I have and to put the parts I still need to use in 1 place. Dave ----

Are you thinking the cabin air is being pushed out the cowl causing the wiper to move? My gut says no way, it is coming out between the glass and the butyl seal hitting the molding and to the wiper. What needs to be done is the molding pulled off, there is a tool for this, the area cleaned as I am sure it is full of dirt. When cleaning that also clean the cowl area all the way down to the bottom of the fenders where the drains are. Once the area is cleaned you should be able to see if it is the butyl seal. It could also be the butyl seal at the body. You can have someone pull the glass if you cant do it, there is a tool to cut the butyl seal that is not a lot of money. Once out you can clean everything better, check it out better and do any needed repairs / paint before you have the glass installed using butyl seal again as that is what our trucks came with. They were NOT GLUED! Talking about the butyl seal any one know what the size is? The 2 I think is common is 5/16" & 3/8". Like to know for when the time comes to buy the kit. Dave ----

I hear you! Yesterday I got up at 3am to hit the garage and it was 40* out side and felt cold so never made it out. Up at 6am today and it was 28* out side and just knew the garage was cold. Had to put something in my garage about 11am and it was 40*in there ........ yep to cold. Both days I stayed in the house with the fire place going nice and warm besides the truck will still be there when I am ready Dave ----

Yes they are caped at least mine were. I had a heck of a time by hand to undo them (did not work). I used my MAP torch to heat the nuts to get them off. Dave ----

These captions are relevant to those jobs: https://supermotors.net/getfile/260055/thumbnail/rivetreplacement.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/895898/thumbnail/frameb8081.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/467402/thumbnail/tsb970310fig5.jpg Steve, Do you have anything that on the frame crossmembers? Specifically, I'm looking for info on the rear cab crossmember, where the cab rear mounts sit. First I have not looked at the chart so could be talking out my .... As far as I know unless extended cab the frames are the same from front bumper mounts to that rear cab mount and from what I remember of the parts truck frame and mine they were the same. Now I did not pay to much attention from rear of cab back on frame cross members. I do know the bolt in one that is for the front mount of rear tank or for the under bed tire mount can be inter changed as I did that to mount the rear tank for my duel tank setup. The other thing I know is the rear 3 bed (maybe it was 4? would have to look now) to frame bolts line up between the long bed & short bed trucks. IIRC the short bed has 1 less set of bolts, the most forward set. I did need to move a bed cross member but did not need to drill new bed mounting holes and why I think 4. Now in trying to mount the bed exh heat shields because the rear of the beds & frames seam to be the same the rear shield fit but the longer front one needs to fit between the bed & frame and I think just the short time I was trying to fit it the frame cross member was in a different place. IIRC it was the next one back from the rear cab mount cross member above the muffler on a 300 six truck factory location. Being you have both frames for measuring and I am pretty sure the rear cab mounts for standard cabs are in the same location measure from there on back to see where the next cross member lands. Kind of what I had to do to see if I could use the parts truck rib metal floor to replace the wood floor but I had more fun as the long style side bed was still in place. Dave ----