FuzzFace2

I was thinking plugged cat till I saw the truck and would say it does not have a cat. Now if the fuel volume checks out I would take a rubber or dead blow hammer to the muffler and give it a few hits. I am thinking 1 of the baffles broke loose inside and is blocking the flow. I have seen this happen and when the muffler is hit you will hear it rattle as the baffle moves around. Or could if easy drop the muffler out of the system and take it for a spin. Dave ----

If you degreased the motor it will have a little smell till it all burns off and I think the exh. will for a bit also. When you did the compression check what shape & color were the plugs in? Did they look new and light brown / gray in color or warn out and black sooty? Cap / rotor & plug wire in good shape? If the motor needs a tune up you have to do that before anything else can / should be done. A little whitish smoke, condensation, will come out when cold and stop when the exh system heats up and boils it out. Condensation should be gone in the air in a short time, oil smoke will hang around longer and will have a smell to it. Also when up to temp depending the cause of the burning oil it may stop or not. If it happens when first started and if coming down a long hill off the throttle that could be valve guides and or seals. If it is happening all the time then would think rings. If you take it for a long drive, over an hour at high way speeds, does it still smell and smoke? A lot of times we don't take our older cars / trucks for a nice long high way speed run to "blow it out" and it can load up the exh. system (cat) and cause issues down the road. Oh you also asked about MPG being bad. What kind of driving and what are you getting for MPG? It may not be that bad for that truck but if you are matching it to a newer one it will never happen. Dave ----

OK now I see what you are talking about of that center section. Dave ----

Someone, LMC or Denis Carpenter, not long ago was selling the slider lock part. I should have bought them as I have none at all. Maybe I will go looking and buy them as I have Bday money just given to me ;) Dave ----

Movies sets rent or buy what ever they can get that will match the movie. If they are going to destroy the car / truck they will get the cheapest one they can, do what is needed to make it look good (think you have seen bad body work before?) and do what is needed to make it work, and film it. You never see how bad it really is when going across the screen! The AMC group I am on has film places all the time asking for (buy or rent) cars for movies. I also had a buddy rent out his think it was a 53 Chev to the movie Raiders of the Lost Ark and he got to drive the car in the shot. So that Bronco could be the cheapest they could get for the movie and why the different parts. Dave ----

Yea I know my site is down, think I have to renew my domain name from what my "IT guy" (my son) said. The domain name & hosting are 2 different people and I cant log into the domain site to check things so need to call them someday, maybe today? I will have to re-check my hitch to see if the center can be flipped to get it a little higher. Then again I should measure the hitch on my Dodge that I use to pull the car trailer to see what it is as I would be using the Ford as a back up when needed but only have 1 WD hitch with a 2-5/16" ball and it is set for the dodge height. Dave ----

How about this thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Little-Blue-82-td25913.html Thanks I found it after I post that. I am playing "katsup" as I have not been on in a bit. Dave ----

Sorry, I started looking back through here and realized I have missed some comments. Previous owner said he had the entire axle swapped. Gary. About the hitch... I was looking at it.....its made in three pieces. Two brackets that bolt to frame. The middle piece with the reciever bolts to the two brackets, and its installed upside down! Hit a button and lost a long post That hitch sounds like the same I have and IIRC there is no way the side frame parts can be installed upside down as the holes don't line up. And yes it does hang low. Clutch: Check all the pivots points as they wear and egg shape and add plat to the system. I welded the pivots and reshaped them by hand with grinding and hand files. There is also plastic bushings on the cross shaft from frame to motor. You can get the bushings, felt seals & lock clip from LMC & Denis Carpenter. You CAN NOT get the motor pivot that screws into the motor. Mine had a lot of wear and I also have to weld and reshape it. When moving the truck 1 day the linkage felt bad. Upon looking it over I found the motor pivot broke leaving the threaded part in the block. I was lucky that part came out easy but now what to do on a part you cant get? Why you make one! I found a bolt with the right thread pitch, cut the head off the bolt and welded the threaded part to the ball part of the pivot. Got it all back together and works great. Did I see that your dist. has a vacuum can on it and if so a vacuum line to it? If so you would not need to replace it but you do have a new dist. coming if a saw it posted right. My 81 is a non-feed back system but I am using the stock carb and EFI exh. manifolds and so far just moving it around is working good. Good luck Dave ----

So Ray when you going to tell us about what popped up? Dave ----

Reporting back here as I said I would, I've so far been really happy with the Ospho product. Now I'm wondering if this stuff causes any issues with welding?... I guess the worst case scenario is that one would have to grind it away like you would do with rust or paint... All my welding was before treating with the Ospho acid. I don't think the welds will be good as the acid would keep the welds from being good. They make weld thru primer and even that can sometimes be a issue to weld thru. Where the welding needed to be done I hit with a flap wheel or grinder wheel to get to good metal. Dave ----

Before you mount the dash you may want to mount the firewall pad & HVAC box. Trying to work around & behind the dash can be a PITA. Dave ----

And it shows! :nabble_anim_claps:Well done. How was the trip hope no issues. Dave ----

I was thinking the same thing when he said about the room redo. Looking good keep it up. Dave ----

It is not that easy as to cut the 3rd hole as the other holes do not line up right. Now others say it is not hard to do as you want, cut the hole and work the others so the AC box will bolt up and that may how I would do it if I did not have the AC firewall to pull that panel from like I did. I don't have any pictures showing the back side of the holes not lining up but again from what others say for the average person just cut the 3rd hole and rework to fit the AC box as not everyone can do or wants to do it the way I did. As for easy I don't do any thing easy, the fire wall for AC was just the first after replacing the floors, rockers, cab corners and the lower left inside & outside of the door. That was a prep for the bed floor replacement and custom bumpers Cut the hole is easier way to go if you did not go back to just heat. BTW I cant see why a full heat only box & duct work that I have would not fit his truck? I did not look to see if the blower switches were the same or not but I can see why it would not fit. Dave ----

Gary, you may be a little miss leading and right on the part number(s) as that is for the booster ONLY. The OP is saying the zone, I have not had any issues with AZ parts, lists 2 different part numbers: duel calipers (different master?) or single caliper (a 2nd different master) but both may use the same booster. To the OP you will need to pull a front wheel and see what calipers your truck has as it is the only way to know for sure before buying the booster w/master when they ask single or duel calipers. Dave ----

There have been good answers or opinions posted so far and here is my opinion. I am not into the bed lined or flat black trucks but would buy (and did) a flat black over bed lined any day. As said I would not even look at a lined truck but I also see why some do it like running thru the woods but how many do that? I do like seeing a good looking all stock truck as you don't see many around any more, they show they are loved. Most are now flat black, bed lined or look like they are driving to the junk yard. As for me it depends on what I will be using the car or truck for. On a car project (70 AMC Javelin) I have made a custom dash overlay out of real silver carbon fiber. Base model had a engine turned silver overlay, car is not a base model, so first look it looks stock. I also installed custom gauges where all the stock gauges were. Again a quick look you would say stock but the 160 PMH speedo a 4 gauge cluster where warning lights were an 8K tack where the clock was and the gauges printed with "AMC or Javelin" is not stock. I have also added a T5 5speed trany in place of the factory 4 sp, again hard to tell when you look at it quickly. On the out side I am doing flush mounted front & rear glass, a different year rear deck spoiler, looks like the right year but stands up more, and will have after market wheels. On my 81 F100 flare side again little things you may not pick up on. The big one is the style side metal bed floor in place of the factory wood floor. Added the duel rear tank and molded the filler door into the rear fender to look factory stock. Even the dash switch is factory stock looking. I am in the middle of adding driving / fog lights into the front bumper, not above or below it but in it. I have already made the front & rear bumpers "floating" as they do not show bumper bolts from the outside. It will also have aftermarket wheels. Would I like to do a CV frame or front end swap on the truck? Yes I would but then I don't think the truck would be as useable as it will be now. It will be used to make dump runs and pull a trailer when needed. I just want a nice looking driver that I would not mind taking to a show or 2 when done. So as said build it as you see fit to do what you need it to do. If that is factory stock or add a little custom touch or a full out custom build go for it. It is yours so build it your way. Dave ----

Got it, what made me ask about the letters is the openings I guess for the park / turn lights. When I looked at it quickly and lack of sleep that is what I though. That is also why I think Gary said it might be from an early Bronco because where the lights are placed. I do see where the letters & valance are on the older truck and why it cant be done on yours. The hood I guess is the only option if you want letters. What ever you do I know it will look good. Dave ----

Gary brings up a point I did not know of, but heard of it, Hi-Low Vent system. Does your truck have vent out lets in the dash like a AC truck would have? If so I don't know if the box I have would work as the truck it came out of did not have dash vent out lets. I don't know what to check / measure to see if it would bolt to the fire wall or if the duct work would fit up to yours or not. I do have all the duct work from mine that I am pretty sure will bolt into your truck but the dash vents would not work. I think the answer is that the 81 and 84 are different. But here is the info, so maybe you can see something different than I am? By the way, you are looking for an entry that says "w/o Hi-Low Vent", which is the high-end heater that has vents on the dash like the A/C system. But there are several entries w/o telling us which system they have. I think that means it is the base heater, not Hi-Low Vent. I will look over the box & control better but it is yours if you think it will work. I am a little under 2 hrs from Greensboro down RT40, just off exit 319 @ RT210 & RT50 I did not know how the Hi-Low vent system was set up and it sounds like the dash looks just like an AC dash. I wonder if the fire wall is the same for Hi-Low vent & non-AC system? If so then he could bolt in a non-AC box & duct work and just not have the dash vents work. I will have to look over the above information better when not so tired, up at 1am with only a short nap when I got home from work at 3pm. Thanks Dave ----

Oh on the head light & wiper switches you should be able to get them thru the parts store, at least the head light switch. On the wiper switch you may want to check if the truck has time delay wipers as it uses a different switch than non-time delay wipers. Trace out the wiper wiring and if there is a black box it is delay wipers. I would also look into the heater fan switch when at it so you have that when the time comes. Dave ---- edit: I checked Auto Zone and they listed all 3 switches, head / wiper / blower fan, for the 84 truck.

Dave is in the house :nabble_anim_jump:As pointed out the non-AC truck fire wall only has 2 openings. The AC truck fire wall has 3 openings.In my picture that Gary posted the red fire wall is non-AC, the maroon is AC.Now the HVAC box is 2 parts the engine side or outside and the inside part. The fire wall gets sandwiched between the 2 box parts. Now you are saying you only need the engine side but is that true?I also don't know / remember if the inside duct work is different between non-AC & AC trucks.Now the controls. This works by 2 cables IIRC 1 for temp and the other for fresh air but not 100% sure on that with out looking at the box & controls.What would also need to be known is if the truck has duel fuel tanks?I say this because the tank switch is to the right in the HVAC control panel.Also did they put duel tanks in trucks with out AC?Gary a question for you. Is there a difference between 81 F100 and his 84 F??? non-AC box & control panels? I have the one out of my truck when I did the swap and I don't plan on using it I just don't know what shipping would be for it as it would be a large box from 27501 here in NC.Dave ----

on getting it running. As for that bolt for the dist. they make dist. wrenches 1/2" & 9/16" I have had mine since the late 70's when you had to adjust timing as part of the tune up. Dave ----

If it is the chrome strips above & below the plastic grille I think they as SS and not the anodized moldings like around the glass or down the side. If it was the same it would not have rust & pits on it. As for the doors painted black or not I say pick the one you like and go with it. When I get out to my garage I will have a look see at mine but I think 1 of the trucks was crashed at 1 time and some of the front end parts replaced. I say this because 1 had yellow turn / park lights the other clear. Dave ----

Looks good. Will it have FORD letters bolted to the grill? I enjoy doing that kind of work and why I used the style side bed floor in my flare side and adding driving lights in to the front bumper. Dave ----

I hit Reply, then Quote; then I delete the text I'm not replying to, copy (CTRL+C) the "quote author" tag, paste it (CTRL+V) behind the "/quote" tag, copy both tags (in reverse order), undo (CTRL+Z) the paste, then paste them into the quoted text where I want to break it up. If I want to reply to several posts, I copy (or cut CTRL+X) what I've done so far, browse BACK to the thread, quote the next post, paste what I've done so far at the beginning, and continue as before with the new author. The way I do it, I don't have 2 tabs open for the same thread. I know me - I'd get confused switching between them. I got confused trying to follow what you said! You and me both! I will have to see what I can do down the road but if I cant oh well Dave ----

How can you do multi quotes? Next time to the garage if I remember I will see if they will swap side to side as they are held on with only 2 nuts each side. Now if they are symmetrical the filler door is on the wrong side of the tank now. It is easier to get a flare or duel wheel door and graft it on to the left rear fender. Besides ever try and fill a truck with a fuel door on each side of the truck and the fuel pumps only reach 1 side? Dave ----