FuzzFace2

So it is wired into the Left Brake and Turn Right Brake and Turn Then the Running is wired into the Right Running light ^ Thinking of changing this to the plate light and see if this helps. Grounded to the bed but may change it to the Frame Been raining non stop. Sorry not getting back sooner. Yep that is how it should be done. I cant see picking up running lights from the plate light would help the issue but if it makes you happy then go for it. BTW there is a Tee trailer harness, Etrailer or others, that you unplug the trucks tail lights from the rear harness plug in the trailer harness to the rear harness and the tail lights to the trailer harness. 1 of my trucks came with one and will be using it on mine when I get that far. Dave ----

And I thought my rolled parts truck was in bad shape, not even close. Cant wait to see the rest. Dave ----

See below ;) I hit the garage at 6am to get some information for another member and then got working on the truck. I pulled the manifolds off so I had access to the 5 freeze plugs. 1 had a rubber one and another was leaking from rusting out. Because of the rusted one I waned to replace them all. The kit I got from Rock Auto only came with 3 of the 5 plugs I needed so had to hit the local parts house and got the last 2 they had. Then the fun started how to get the old plug out? I started with the rubber one man I had to fight to get it out. I did not want to knock the others into the block. Started on the rusted one and after it fell apart but still had the outer ring on the block how to get this out? Using a flat punch I was able to move it yep into the block! A little work and I was able to get it out of the block. I removed the rest the same way, knock into the block and using vice grips to pull them out worked pretty good. I then took a find grinding stone on a drill and cleaned up the openings of the freeze plugs. Then the next fun started coat the openings and the edges of the new plugs with This stuff is almost as bad as never seize, it gets all over you and it is sticky! I used a big socket to get the plugs started and used the hammer to drive them flush with the block then back to the socket to drive them in a little more like the old ones were. I do have a bearing / seal driver but the drives would not fit right and the bolt that holds them to the handle would hit the plug and why the socket. Being on a roll I got the gasket areas cleaned and remounted the manifolds. Yep fun with EFI exh. manifolds and no helping hands to hold the EFI when tightening nuts. Speaking of thick washers & nuts I have 1 of each left over. I checked 100 time and cant find where it goes? I have to check old pictures and see if I can find where it goes. I got everything back together but the air filter, a vacuum line or 2 and coolant as I wanted the sealer to set up some before I filled it backup. When almost done I hit the vacuum line to the carb bowl vent and the check valve? fell apart. I heard something hit the floor but could not find it when I looked. I have the spring part but think there is a washer type thing missing so will have to deal with that. all of this was done by 2pm and that includes the parts store run and taking the trash to the dump. Tomorrow I want to fill it with coolant, see if I can find where this washer & nut goes and fix the bowl vent thing. Dave ----

I also think it is a ground issue. As for the truck rear light ground others have posted it is not in the light housing, my parts truck was in the housing. They say the ground wire picks up both rear lights and goes all the way up front and is tied into other grounds on the firewall behind the radio, so they say. How did you tie in the flat plug? You should have a wire to: The left turn / brake light. The right turn / brake light. The running lights - this can tie into either light or the plate light like you posted. The 4th wire in the plug, think white, is the trailer ground and can go to any clean place on the frame. Now why this happened after the plug install is beyond me. I think you had this problem before and just seen it now. https://www.etrailer.com/ Have a lot of good information on how to wire up for a trailer to parts to make this happen. I have used them for different trailer parts when needed Dave ----

Good news the parts, intake / exh. gasket & freeze plugs, I ordered came in so I can work on the truck this weekend. Bad news I don't think the plugs are the right ones. There are only 3 in the kit but I count 5 in a picture I have and I think they are the wrong size. The quick measurement I got 1-1/2" and they sent 1-5/8" plugs. We will see when I get into it I guess. Dave ----

Pete is that silver to match the grille or white to match the body? I have been thinking silver but also a spray chrome from a can. I hear if you can lay down some nice mirror finish black then the chrome paint they say looks pretty good. I also have the last guy to call. Also been thinking of a brushed Alum. wrap, it would look like some of the late 70's 5MPH GM bumpers. But before I do anything I need to prep the bumpers better even for paint if that is how I go. Oh BTW love the floating grille and older head light doors it looks really good. Dave ----

With all the cars & trucks today not having any chrome I want to try and keep it. I still have time before I need to install them so I will see what options I have after I prep them better and talk to this last person. Dave ----

May need to rethink the bumper wrap. I hit 3 places, first said he did not want to try it because of some of the bends / corners. They sent me to a place that does not do wraps who sent me to the 3rd. It looks good if I want to do it in anything but chrome. The girl that does the wrapping, owners daughter, has not worked with chrome and did not want to give it a try. Owner was all for giving it a try but was up to her. They did say it scratches easy so would need a film cover over it. They gave me a number to a guy that does full color change on cars, most I checked with said I need to find a place that does full color change wraps. But if I want to do any other color for the wrap they would do it. I also was told the finish on the bumpers needs to be better before they can be wrapped. It is like body work before paint, all nicks and sanding marks need not seen or felt. I will do a little more prep on them and check with this last person to see what he has to say but they may get painted as it will be about $200 to $250 to wrap them. Dave ----

Steve I have to ask why don't you like the coffee can tank? They do tend to rust from the inside out, don't know why? But it can be fixed and yes I did. Pull the mounting bracket off, clean up the outside and give it a few coats of fiber glass rosin. Once it is sealed paint, put the mounting bracket back on and install in the truck. You still have the factory vacuum can mounted to the fender. Dave ----

I have only followed this 38 gal swap on & off as I don't think I will be doing this swap but do have a question or 2. I guess the tank has a big opening if there is talk of electric pumps being installed. Gary you said there are senders that work with this tank, 38 gal, and with our gauges? If so and you did not need a in tank pump why can't you leave the pump off and lower the pick up, if need be, to the bottom of the tank. I would think getting a sender that fits the tank and works with our gauges is the hard part. What are you guys doing with the spare tire? That is one of the big reason why I would not do this swap as I don't want to lose the bed space. Dave ----

So it was blowing hot and it did not do any thing? Most of the time it would lower it some and then start to go up again or take longer to "over heat". I think you need to install a real temp gauge to see just what is going on and work from there. Dave ----

A bad water pump would also cause the motor to run hot. If the impeller was slipping on the shaft the system would not flow what the factory built it to have. This may even show up as no water flow thru the heater. On the heater do both hoses get hot where you cant hold them? On hoses does the lower radiator hose have the spring in side it? If not then when at speed it will get sucked closed and stop water flow. Dave ----

Thanks on the bumper & lights. It's one of them little custom touches that you would over look if it was not pointed out. Almost like the metal ribbed bed floor or the rear fuel tank on a flare side. I pulled the rear bumper off wired brushed the rust on the back side and painted it with the rust stop paint. Both bumpers are in my truck and may be able to stop at the place tomorrow. It is slow for cement because of the rain that passed thru here. Ordered the plugs & gaskets from Rock Auto, shipping (the cheapest) was more than the 2 parts! After the freeze plugs I am running out of things that can be done to put off the last little bit of body work to get paint on this thing. Dave ----

I am going to try and get them wrapped in chrome. The bumpers still have some nicks and grinding marks that may or may not show thru and why I need to have them look at them. If they need to be baby butt smooth I will need to spend a lot of time on them as that old chrome is tuff stuff. They are far from being car show bumpers I just want them to look half way good is all. Got the bolts for the lights, no freeze plugs (I will tell why later), fitted the bracket tabs to bumper and welded them on and then painted the back side. Popped the lights in for pictures. Close up of light and how it is mounted. And the money shot! Nothing is lined up just placed on to get the picture. Now the freeze plugs I had to get the truck in the air so figured on using ramps ..... nope! smooth floor they move so I put old mud flaps I have still no go. Ramps moved a little but the wheels just spin on the floor so out came the jack & horse. So I get a size of about 1.5" reaching around hot parts from trying to get up the ramps and I keep getting dripped on. I check the rubber plug from under the truck and it is dry? Could it be from the hot water plate on the bottom of the stock intake leaking? Checking from under it looks dry? Get a step stool to check over the fender and I spot another plug leaking! At this point the manifolds will come off so I can access all the plugs on the right side to replace them. Only good thing is it has not been long since I put that stuff all together. Going to place an order with Rock Auto as that is where I got the last gasket and was happy with it. Hope to have parts by next weekend so I can get that fixed. Dave ----

All spot on replies so far. I know it is not something you would want to do when it is hot out, turn off the AC if it has it and turn heat on hot and fan on full speed. Does the temp come down? Could point to a bad radiator. The other thing is mud in the bottom of the cooling passages in the block. No matter how much you try and flush it it is so fine and packed in the only way for it to be removed it is to hot tank the block. Had a buddy that had a motor run hot, cooling system new had the block hot tanked and all was good. I also have a motor that ran hot, car is a project now because of this, that the cooling system was mud when I go it. Flushing, 2 new radiators, new water pump, hoses, heater core even a fan shroud and the car never came with one from the factory (it did help a little). I could never drive it far before it would over heat, you could hear the water boiling in the block! The freeze plugs started to rust out of the motor, even 1 in the head! Each one I pulled I would take something (coat hanger) and disturb the mud and flush the best I could. I used rubber plugs as I knew the motor had to be hot tanked. So it maybe mug at the bottom of the block. Dave ----

Thanks I cant wait either. I was up at 5am but nothing opens around here till 9am (auto zone) and 10am (hard ware both next door to each other) to get parts to do more work. Couldn't even cut the rest of the grass, did half yesterday before I helped at the pet adoption for a few hours, because it was raining when I got up. The plan today is to measure the leaking plug, pick up 2 in case the first gets thrown across the shop because it doesn't want to go in, and get the needed bolts so I can finish the lights in the bumper. Also need to paint the back side of the bumpers to stop the rust with paint I have to stop the rust. Maybe when the paint is drying I will see if I can replace that leaking freeze plug? I hope to take the bumpers with me this week to work and if I have the time stop by the wrapper to see what the $$ will to wrap them will be. Dave ----

I picked up welding wire last Monday and installed it then and did a test so it would be ready to go when I was. Was able to finish the welding and got them ground down. Fitted the lights to see what is needed to mount the lights. It looks like I can use part of the light brackets by cutting the ears and welding them to the box I made on the bumpers to fit the lights. Lights with brackets. Back side of bumper showing the box I made Front side of bumper with out light Light in bumper tan one is tape on it and held in place the other is taken from below as I don't havethe tabs welded on yet. I need to get longer bolts for the lights to the welded tabs and spacers before I can weld the tabs on. I would have made a run to the hard ware store but the truck was moved out for more room and at this point it was stating to rain. No glass in truck and the cat was still out it was time to get both truck and cat inside. I plan to get the bolts & spacers and also hit the auto parts store for a freeze plug or 2 as there was a puddle when I moved the truck out and I don't want 1 of the dogs getting to the leaking anti freeze. Dave ----

X2 I also cant say over the long run as I don't have anything I can use at this time that I have used the SEM on. Dave ----

I hear ya Steve. I swapped in a 5spd so I had no choice, but my truck being a 1984 it already had a hydraulic clutch anyway. I know there are some mechanical linkage clutch fans out there (I'm talking to you Dave!!), but me personally, I'd rip that linkage out of there faster than you could say hydraulic swap! I picked up a hydraulic clutch pedal assembly from a 1986 at the Junkyard last year. It will go in a project truck or it will simply be a spare. I would have also grabbed the hydraulic bellhousing but it was already gone. I knew my ears were ringing for a reason LOL Yea not a fan of the hydraulic setup but if I had to then I would go for it. Dave ----

Well they tell me it's still there but I have not seen it yet. When I set up the new domain I messed up my email address. Not having time my son worked with them to get it fixed and then updated DNS, that was over 48 hours now so don't know what is going on now. Dave ----

I will have to get pictures tomorrow if I can. I would go now but we have a storm here right now. Our main TV went out and the only time I have to go with the wife to get one is tomorrow. I was happy to see the pictures were still showing on here. The domain is part my fault. For some reason I did not get an email it was due, when you get a multi year you forget when you have to renew. When it stopped working I could not log in to the admin side to update information and card. I should of called them to see what I had to do but I did not. I went with a different company for the domain and I entered a bad email address. I was able to fix it as I am now getting emails everyday on BS but when I get to the DNS page it ask to send email so you click the button and then nothing. They don't have on line chat so I have to call. My hosting company said all my data is still there so that is good. Dave ----

I heard it is the heat that causes the header tubes to crack and break. It is ok on a race car where they maybe removed a bunch and on a drag car not under heat for a long time but I would not wrap headers on a street car / truck. Dave ----

I have had a electric fuel pump fail when it got hot. Now this was on a John Deere garden tractor with a 22 hp water cooled motor that had FI with the pump in tank. I on cool days cutting the grass, 3 hours just riding to do grass, it was ok. When the temp got warmer I would get about half done and the tractor would start to surging when under power but idled just fine. If you kept cutting it would just cut out. forums kept pointing to bad spark but with my rude testing both coils would fire so that point to a fuel issue. The only test port on this tractor is at the TB, read after the fuel regulator so how do you know if pump or regulator? Remove the filter the is before the regulator, cut the quick release ends off filter to use on the fuel psi gauge, mount gauge to hood and go out cutting till it happens. Yep half way thru the surging started and the gauge started jumping till it went to 0 and motor stopped. Let it cool off about half hour and it would start and run till it heated up again. That was a first for me too so I would check the fuel psi when this happens. Good luck Dave ----

When I posted the pictures I pull the links from my site. When the domain name expired thesite went down. I was not fast enough to renew it and it was snagged so had to go with a different name. I have to work on the DNS and my site should be up. On the light fitting. For some reason the hole turned out to be too small and I even placed the flat stock on the bumper not on the inside of the opening as I knew that would make it smaller. I can only say I should have test fitted the light before welding that's why we tack weld right? Dave ----

My son did the GM module on his Jeep YJ with the AMC 258 six. He is using the stock dist. that have vacuum advance what dist. you using to trigger the GM part? Oh you have a v8 so that stock dist. with vacuum advance should work right. Dave ----