FuzzFace2

Yes... as long as the parts are not plastic. The Arizona sun is not kind! Ha ha... I live in the UV belt... but I will take that over the rust belt. The funny thing is about a year ago Trent mailed me these same brackets because I couldn’t find any. I just got lucky and looked under the right hood at the right time in the junkyard so I could pass on the favor 🙂 Spent some time on the truck to night. Went to degrease the AC brackets and found my parts cleaner dry? Guess it evaporated? So went with the sand by of $2.26 gal wash fluid LOL After washing the grease off I had to give it a dry fitting to see what bolts & spacers I need. I had to run a tap thru all the holes before I could get any bolts started but it is in place for the fitting. I need to pull it off for painting and will do that air filter bracket at the same time. I also need to get some bolts, 7/16-14 for the main bracket to motor and something to use as a spacer. I also had to change 2 plug wires around so the 90* boot was on #1 plug. Then the hard part finding and laying out the money for the compressor, hoses, dryer and a few other things to have working AC system. Dave ----

Did this convince you to use any particular product? Just curious (since you are working on a rust belt truck) what you decided to use and how well it did in the real world? I have to agreee with others here that if I know I will be tackling some tough bolts I start applying penetrating oil well in advance, and may make several applications even days before I go to wrench on it. Liquid wrench has been my usual stand-by, but it does seem to evaporate quickly and maybe isn’t the best for soaking over time. But I live in Arizona, what do I know about “rust”? 🤔 Next time I am in the auto parts store I want to see if they have the Sea Foam deep creep oil. I used the gas treatment in a small wood chipper, 5hp engine, that sat for years with bad gas. I rebuilt the carb and it started but ran like crap. I added 2 time the sea foam treatment for the tank size and the longer it ran the better it got, that made a believer in sea foam. Dave ----

That's my guess, but their deletion from later vehicles suggests that Ford quickly realized they're NEVER going to be useful since there's never a time that a compressor has to be replaced, and NOTHING else in the system. And it doesn't hold enough refrigerant to worry about that when opening the rest of the system for service. So why isolate it? The valves are just extra weight, complexity, cost, & leak points. That is good to know that I don't need to go find service valves When the time comes to order the compressor& hoses I now know what I have to get. As for the 2 different size pulleys, a 5" & 6", all compressors looked to be single groove, I was going to go with the 5" to spin it a little faster as most of the driving will be stop n go and if it is anything like my Dodge when you slow down / stop the AC blows a little warmer. Anyone see anything wrong with that? Thanks again guys for the information. Dave ----

When I was checking on hoses they are listed as with service valve and with out service valves. My thinking is the hoses must be made with a 90* and with out a 90* end for the compressor. You cant always go by pictures because sometimes they use just 1 picture for all listings I do thank you for posting the pictures as it answered questions. Dave ----

Way to go Now you can go out and do smoky burn out with open headers no less I just knew it was not hitting on all 8 but who would guess only 4! Again nice job of not letting the truck win out! Dave ----

Only thing I see wrong is no side marker light in the housing. I also will be needing lights for mine as my truck only had 1 light on the back and it was a small square one mounted up high. Because I needed the brackets too my brother found a set of lights in the junk yard with brackets and sent them. Thing is 1 light was damaged so will need to come up with something. I have also been looking at LEDs and may end up with a set. Then again I have 2 sets of the cheap boat trailer lights I could make work just does not look right. On any of the lights I don't care about the plate light as I may just paint it. The plate gets mounted to the left side of the rear bed panel and has a light that fits the plate bracket. You can not get this light from what I found but I am sure we can find something that will work. I may go for the plate bolts that light up for the plate light? Dave ----

So I guess some have the valves and others do not based on the hoses you can get for the FS6 compressor. Looking at the valves it looks like they add a 90* turn and guessing why the 2 different parts for valves & with out valves. So how important are the service valves? Are they there so you can close off the system and remove the compressor for service and not have to deal with the whole system? I will have to check my York compressor to see if there are service valves as I don't remember seeing any. If I do have them wonder if they would fit the FS6 compressor manifolds? Thanks for the pictures it helped explain what they were asking. Dave ----

No, the key should turn the engine off any time you turn it back. The button (or the internal interlock in shifter columns) is there to prevent you from LOCKING THE WHEEL while the truck is still rolling. An auto column will only allow the key to go to LOCK when the shifter is in P. For manual columns, the driver has to press an extra button before the key will turn that far. But the engine should shut down without pressing that button. If not, either adjust the ig.sw. position so that it DOES, or repair the actuator(s) - the linkage between the lock cylinder & the ig.sw. https://supermotors.net/getfile/894815/thumbnail/columnsexploded.jpg Gary, that is what mine is doing and I know it was not right as Steve pointed out. Well if the switch adjust does not work I will have to look into the actuator and I don't really want to do that so I hope it works now. Dave ---- I got a package from Jonathan aka: Ford F834, He is a life saver! It was AC compressor brackets for 83-86 for the 300 motor. It gives me something to work on this weekend. I hope to get this mounted. Going to see if the "banker" (wife) has any money for the compressor as it is heavy and want to mount it before I fix the dent on the fender I have to lean over. Hoses I don't think is a big deal as I think you can do from the front but if not you would not be leaning on the fender like the brackets & compressor. Dave ----

No, the key should turn the engine off any time you turn it back. The button (or the internal interlock in shifter columns) is there to prevent you from LOCKING THE WHEEL while the truck is still rolling. An auto column will only allow the key to go to LOCK when the shifter is in P. For manual columns, the driver has to press an extra button before the key will turn that far. But the engine should shut down without pressing that button. If not, either adjust the ig.sw. position so that it DOES, or repair the actuator(s) - the linkage between the lock cylinder & the ig.sw. https://supermotors.net/getfile/894815/thumbnail/columnsexploded.jpg Gary, that is what mine is doing and I know it was not right as Steve pointed out. Well if the switch adjust does not work I will have to look into the actuator and I don't really want to do that so I hope it works now. Dave ----

I knew that motor was not hitting on all 8 and why I kept saying firing order. After the fire you went with a new intake? What kind of gasket does it use between heads & manifold? If it is a metal type what type of sealer is used at the water & intake ports? See where I am going with this? If the heads & manifold angles are not the same and don't use enough sealer you could have a vacuum leak to the inside / valley. If you did get it on the road you might find it going thru oil and not know where it is going. If you think the can went flat I would pull the covers and crank it over / run it just to check movement. Dave ----

Those are good ones. IMHO of course. Ever use Mouse Milk? https://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Milk-Oil-8-Oz/dp/B0049C7170 We used to use Mopar Heat Valve Solvent or Penetrant, forget the exact name, on aircraft turbocharger waste gates. Spray in on, let it sit and then hit it with an air rivet gun with a 2x4 in between. I have not heard of the Mopar Heat Valve Solvent since the late 70's when I worked at a Dodge / Chry / Plym dealer ship in the body shop. Kroil works great when I used it in HVAC at a hospital and would be my go to if I could find it on the store shelves. I have PB Blaster on hand but don't think it works to good as it seams to dry out if left to soak in. Also not happy with Liquid Wrench. I have some ATF & WD-40 mixed that I was pouring in plug holes on a stuck motor, have not checked if it worked yet? Dave ----

Jonathan, I received the box Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! I did not see any note on how to repay you for the parts & time, Please let me know. For anyone that can answer: I do have a question on the hoses as I want to replace them but the description has me confused and that does not take a lot to do I looked up them for an 83 F150 with the 300 six https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1983,f-150,4.9l+300cid+l6,1121353,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+refrigerant+hose,6900 The question(s) What is "Pre Charged System, w/ Manual Shut-Off Valve at Compressor" and "In Plant Charged System, w/o Manual Shut-Off Valve at Compressor" Mostly the charge thing? Then is the "shut-Off" on the compressor or that manifolds that bolt to the compressor? I don't see any valves in pictures? Then looking at the compressors for the same year / model truck there is one with a 5" pulley and one with a 6" pulley. The others do not list size of pulleys. The 5" one would spin the compressor faster and that may help when at slow speeds like stop & go traffic. What would you do? Thanks for any help given Dave ----

If you do water crossings you may want to put a nipple in the hole use a rubber hose on the nipple and run it up to a spot on the fire wall and then punt the part in the end. I would use a cheap fuel filter in the end of the rubber hose. On some 4x4 trucks the front diff breather was done this way and the hose run up the inner fender well or radiator support. Dave ----

Dave, The shift(up) indicator light only showed up in 1984, and maybe 1985. Gary can explain. My 1984 has the "Shift" indicator lens, non operational. It might have also been there in 1983, but 1984 for sure. I said I would check mine before we knew the dates. Because I did check I thought I would post what I found on my 81 LOL I wonder how far after 84 they still used the shift light? Not that I would need / use it. Dave ----

When I first installed it I did it that way and as said when you went to turn the motor off you had to push the button in on the left so the key would turn a little more to shut down. This button is so you can turn the key to the lock pos. to get the key out and should not need to do that to shut it off. Right now the switch is adjusted down as far as it will go so if it still "hangs up" I will go for a new switch. I do have another used one but as hard as it is to get to I think new is the way to go for now. We will see in time. Dave ----

Thanks for the link I will check it out when I have time. As for the shit light the 1 bezel I am going to use I checked and it does not have anything there. I should say it has a black blank cover that does not let light thru. I think it came out of the parts truck, an 81 F100 Ranger. If I can find the other from my truck, 81 F100 custom, I will check it but it had paint all over it. Dave ----

Well the "I hate body work" was not as bad this weekend as I did not have as much body filler to sand. Had to fire up the heater as it was 40*in the garage, on low it got up to 55* so was not too bad for working. I pulled the left rear fender off to finish prepping for primer but had a little filler work that needed to be done. A little filler followed by sanding and the fender is ready for primer just need to prep the 2 fuel doors before priming all of them. I also adjusted the IGN switch. When I would try and turn the motor off you would have to push in the button to turn the key a little bit more. If this does not work I will replace the switch. Before I installed it I sprayed it with cleaner & lube and it worked good in my hand but who knows now? Hope to get out and prim the parts tomorrow and maybe work on the dent in the fender. Then it will be the final block sanding before paint. Dave ----

Man I have not seen under the hood of one of them in years. Got to love that fan belt. Then they wonder why they would throw belts when the RPM got a little high That was before everything had to have a cover over it so it would not "eat you"! Think they made one with a turbo (spider?) what carb did that have, was it a v4? Dave ----

hydraulics are not what I want. Man do I hear you I don't like them either. as Steve showed mine was worst. A little welding and work with hand files got them back like new. As for the trany swap other then the hydraulics I would look into the newer 5 speeds. It shifts smoother, the gear spacing is good and it is easy on the clutch. Have you looked at the first gear ratios between the 2 tranys? You may find the first gear ratio too high for pulling anything and even just driving with out needing to slip the clutch. Have you looked into what it will run $$ wise for this swap? I would think any used trany you find will need to be rebuilt so add that into the final $$. If you like the trany you have now but just want over drive have you looked in the Range Splitter from Advance Adaptors? It is the only OD unit I know of that works with a 4x4. Gear Vender does not work with 4x4 as it is bolted on the back of the transfer case so only works in 4x2. Dave ----

All weber carbs like that that I have played with were a progressive v2 carb. A small primary and a little larger secondary. I can see where that would work on a set up like that over running 2 Holley 2300 v2 carbs that has 2 ports working together. The hardest part of duel carbs is to have to work together and you need the flow meter to do this right. I could never get the weber's to run the way I wanted on a Datsun 1600 motor or an AMC 258. On the AMC went with the Holley 2300. Dave ----

Any one see anything wrong with this picture? And no I don't think that bend is that bad to cause the issue you have. My bad I see "not for fuel ...." is that "injection systems"? Ok if under load you are off the idle side of the carb so you need to look at every other part of that carb. Did you rebuild it or just pulled it apart to give a look see? How far down did you go? Does it use a power valve? Any plastic parts inside it that could have melted? If you have not I would pull it all the way apart and do a good cleaning then a look over for melted or warped parts. I would run thin wire thru all ports being careful not to gouge the ports to hurt air / fuel flow to make sure they are all open. Dave ----

Gauges look great Who did you get the bulbs thru and got part numbers? Do they dim? I got to pull my cluster back out and check the lights, I got lazy and did not replace them, and I think 1 or 2 are not working so might go LED's On the light / wiper light I don't think it uses the 194 bulb (push in type), think it is a push in and turn type but could be wrong. Do you have a light for the ash tray? Think some did and why I asked. What is this shift light you talk of? Is it marked that way? I will have to check my cluster as I did not see this. I know of the 4x4 light and I thought it had it's own harness for this? Could the shift light be the same? If it is a blank you can get the sockets (pig tail) to fit the opening and wire it up to a switch that say turns on back up lights or driving lights to know they are on. Dave ---- edit: I know why I have not seen that, I don't have that part of the cluster on yet. I have 1 light that comes on when I turn the key on to start it and had to go look what it was. Think it was for the seat belts or something like that, stays on for maybe 10 seconds or so. Dave ----

Looking good On the covers you are looking for can you get blank ones? If so then check with print shops that can do silk screen printing to see if they can print what you want on the covers. Dave ----

If I remember right Cory's is a 4x2 truck not a 4x4 that I think you have being you said U joints & hubs. The only thing I can think of would be the replace the rubber pivot points as they are most likely as old as the truck. Check or replace the radius arm bushings or if you have leaf springs the rubber spring mounts at each end. Don't over look the tie rods, if they are bad they will add to play / slop in the steering. Dave ----

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-YF-943-E1AZ-19E583-A-A-C-Compressor-Fitting-Suction-Manifold/183130267010?hash=item2aa36a1d82:g:MBUAAOSwnhpaq8DX:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-nos-oem-YF943-YF-943-suction-compressor-manifold-E1AZ19E583A-E1AZ-19E583A/262801670604?epid=139942640&hash=item3d303341cc:g:SuEAAAzyZONSwuNZ:rk:3:pf:0 used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/E1AZ-19E583-A-suction-manifold-FS6-compressor-Visteon-067035-Everco-A7183-FORD/152672190493?epid=1439618784&hash=item238bf8c01d:g:rzkAAOSw~OdVeIuP:rk:5:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Ford-Manifold-Vacuum-Control-AC-Compressor-Kit-YF-943-E1AZ-19E582-A/173684996677?hash=item28706eba45:g:ebkAAOSw1uVcDoxY:rk:1:pf:0 Thanks for the links they were the ones I found and had sticker shock with when I was looking on what all was needed to get a working system. Depending on the needed parts I get I may not need them. Then again truck still needs paint and put back together before I would need AC LOL Thanks again Dave ----