FuzzFace2

Jonathan, you are right on the 19 gallon tank and on the grafting the door & filler, I used a front flare side door and filler to work with the rear style side tank. It is also true of the larger tanks fitting but they hang lower so you have to find a location for the spare tire as it will not fit under the tank. Because my web site is down my pictures do not show up need to look into this ASAP. Also know that the wiring for the duel tanks is part of the trucks main dash harness so a swapped that into my truck from the parts truck. Dave ----

I am just getting to this now but went thru all the post before I answered it but the answer is it will not fit I tried to fit the 19 gal from the parts truck to my short bed flare side. Because of the flare side small 16 gal tank is why I installed the parts truck 19 gal rear tank in my flare side Dave ----

I used SEM product on my 70 AMC Javelin dash frame (it has a new pad) and the dash on my 81 F100. I will do the kick, door panels and think the seat belt covers. As with any painting it is all in the prep. Dave ----

On auto tranys I always pull the converter with the trany. It should stay in place as long as you don't tilt the trany to the front and have it "slip out". Dave ----

More than happy to help. If you or any one else needs other or better pictures, they are the only ones I have taken, let me know and I will get them. Dave ----

The ones I posted in the past I cant get to as I am having issues with my site, domain may need to be renewed? I found them on my PC. Going to bed soon, up at 1am, so will get pictures tomorrow when I get home from work and post them up if you need betterones. Dave ---- ps the silver door is the style side, brown door the flare side.

Little late to the party, no band aids here Anyway I believe Cory is right the screw parts are different also. Wish my site was up as I think I had pictures of all this. If you need pictures of the 2 together my doors are off the truck and I would need to find the 2 style side ones but I can do that if you want. IIRC because the door hinge part has different spacing for the screws so dose the black plastic "bowl" the filler neck screws to. I also don't know if the bowl, neck & hose is the same between the 2 beds for the side mount tanks as I did not a complete one and I got all the parts mixed up trying to get 2 filler assy. to work on my truck. Dave ----

Cory, note the filler door is a flare side only part. I do know the style side doors are different, don't remember for sure on the size but I know 1 is curved and the other flat. I cant remember if a duel wheel one is the same as ours? Maybe Gary has this listed as we talked about this when I was working on mine. Dave ----

Right now the light will be flush on 1 side, the outside edge, and in about 1" to 1.5" on the inside edge but I am adding the filler all the way around the hole. Only thing I worry is if set back is to far the light pattern will be cut off on the inside. I also have to see how the fog & driving light patterns are. If 1 has a wider pattern I can mount the light so the wide pattern is the one that is flush so it will not be cut off from the set back. Worst comes to worst I have a 2nd bumper I would need to use a press to straighten and then mount the lights in the center flat part of the bumper but we did not like that look did we. I need a few grinding barbs & supplies before I can weld the fillers in but getting lazy to go get them. It is about a 30 min drive each way so may get them on the way home from work one day as it is only 15 min from work. It is also cold here that makes it harder to go to the garage LOL Dave ----

I got the light holes cut in the bumper. Because the holes are in the part of the bumper them sweeps back the lights will need to be installed on an angle so they point straight ahead. Because of this there would be a gap on 1 side and bottom you would see. It took a little time to come up with a filler. I am using 1" wide by maybe 1/8" flat stock I had laying around. I could not bend it so had to cut the parts and will weld them to the bumper. I need to buy some grinding stones or burs for my die grinder as I have some cleaning up to do before welding and after to make it look good. Once the filler is installed I will work on the mounting for the lights. I have taken pictures and when I get my site back up will post them. Dave ----

Gary, as said it is just a common compression fitting on each end. In the AMC world the dip stick comes out over exh manifold / header with a support bracket off 1 of the valve cover bolts to keep it from moving. What happens with out that bracket or R & R headers (gaskets) or the motor a lot the outer tube snaps off at the block. The new tubes, sticks do not come with the tube, do not fit the block. Any way if you have a good tube you use a small tube cutter and cut the tube down low below the manifold / header, and use the compression fitting to join the 2 parts together. This way the next time header gaskets need to be replaced you undo the compression fitting and remove the upper half of the tube out of the way. They say it works great as I have not needed to do this yet. Dave ---- ps: ever seen a dip stick / tube for a van? I bet you could put that on the radiator and not need to go over the master

The driving / fog lights came today so after a little yard work I will work on putting big holes in the bumpers for them and a tab or 2 to mount. I will take pictures but my web site is down so cant post them at this time. I just hope I did not loose all the pictures of this and my other projects. Dave ----

No don't have the money for that and they are not that nice. They have some little nicks & scrapes. The rear had dimples where the bolts were even after I thought I get them flat. The front bumper has a little twist but was the easier of the 2 I could straighten. Now you are twisting my arm on the chroming. I am thinking on getting them wrapped in chrome. Someone said I can get the chrome and do it my self but just a quick look on Ebay the wrap is like $60. I will see what someone wants to wrap and if say it is $150 I think it pays to have them do it. We will see. Dave ----

Yes looks nice. How did you do the lettering on the gate? Paint the blue then tape off the letters then the white? When do we get to see it out side to get the full effect? Dave ----

Does look good. I hear you on that front sway bar and think why I have not really looked into them ..... yet. I need to get the truck on the road first. Dave ----

I did not patch or re-chrome where the welding was done. I was going to cut the heads off the bumper bolts but my brother, who does body work for a living, said to put the bolts on the back side and weld them from the front thru the square holes. Only thing I was not sure on is if I could mount the front bumper with the bolts welded because 2 bolts go from the front and the other 2 come in at an angle. So first I tack welded the bolts on the front bumper to make sure I could mount it and it worked out good. So once I knew the bumpers could be bolted in I did weld the bolts on the face side building up the weld. I then used my 4" grinder and a stone wheel to take down most of the welds. I then used a 36 grit flap wheel to take the welds down a little more then a 40 grit flap wheel. On the rear bumper I also sanded it with a DA & 180 grit paper. In person you can see where the welding was done but what I have in mind for the final look you will not be able to tell. Dave ---- edit: I for got yes they are mounted with the welded in bumper bolts.

Yes and yes. The green "patches" are the size of the lights posted on LMC's site but I did not center them for the pictures. I did not like the look when in the center so I just placed them out there. I think I lined up the outside edges of the trucks lights & the driving / fog lights. But as you said I will find the center line of the head / turn lights and try and center the driving / fog lights to them. I just placed the order with LMC for the 73 - 79 driving / fog lights that fit in the bumper for that years. I also bought the switch / relay / harness assy. Don't know how that will play out yet but thought best to have and not use than not have it and need it. 5 to 7 days I should have them in hand and will get pictures. Dave ----

Yep no bolts showing. Way back in the day my dad said they called that a floating bumper. Yes got to keep the banker happy. She did give the OK to buy the lights last night and just a few minutes ago said we are getting back some tax money so go ahead and order them. Guess I should do that before she changes her mind. Once I have lights in hand I can cut holes and figure how I am going to mount them. Just thinking I have to measure the head & turn lights and mark that on the bumper so they will be centered. Dave ----

Did the first step of the custom bumpers, can you tell what it is? Non-custom front Custom front Non-custom rear custom rear Wife also gave the OK to buy the lights for the front bumper so when I have time I will order them and the switch assy. Dave ----

Door also have drains, they are slots. 1 in each corner and 1 in the center. If you hard water moving and it was water in the doors you hear it went the doors were open & closed. Don't over look the drain for the AC and don't say "but I have not had the AC on because it's been cold & rainy. If you had the defrost on the AC runs. Dave ----

I used plastic horses. I de-greased and hand wire brushed the frame then sprayed it with a acid to kill any rust. After a day or 2 for the acid to work I hosed off the frame, used shop air to blow it dry and 1 more day to dry in the sun before I painted it. I used TSC black oil base paint with hardener in a old school spray gun. Dave ----

Are you saying the timing jumps around with the sprout pulled? If so the only thing I can see to cause that would be a timing chain with a lot of play. Easy to check for play. Turn the motor by hand and set to TDC, do not turn it back to line it up perfect. Now pop the dist. cap and keep an eye on the rotor, turn the motor backwards till the rotor just starts to turn and stop. Hope the rotor did not turn much, now look at the timing mark and you should be able to tell how many degrees it moved and will show the play. I would say 5* is pushing it on play. BTW you said plugs & wires how about the cap & rotor. Dave ----

Lifting the cab with the pads under the stiff rockers is fine, heck I even supported mine on horses under the rockers with out issues. As for lifting with straps and sway I don't think you can get any longer than mine from the rafters, have to use a 6' ladder to put the strap over the beam, so they are pretty long and never had issues with sway. I also have to lower 1 strap at a time so I lower the bed as close to the frame as I can before I push the truck back under it. I also think (been a long time since I played with the bed / floor) I only had to deal with the floor. Once on the frame I then use the straps to help hold a side till I get the front panel bolted to it. I can then bolt the 2nd side to the front panel and then the sides to the floor. But to be safe I hang a moving blanket over the back of the cab just in case. But on a style side bed you could hang a blanket over the bed so not to hurt the cab paint. Come paint time I plan to paint the bed apart then bolt it together and store it in the house garage (don't tell the wife her car has to go outside) till the truck is painted. I hope I can move it on the trailer for the garden tractor. So I think a blanket on the bed when installing it on the frame for the last time (I hope) will work using the straps. It's what has worked for me so far. Dave ----

Yes does look great. Gary I am thinking you cant lift it from below as where would you put the rubber pads? You can't lift from the lower bed side as they are not stiff enough and would fold like a wet paper towel. I am guessing he lifts at the stake pockets with straps around the arms. I do the same on my flare side but my straps go around the rafters and down to the bed stake pockets. Dave ----

Banker said no to spending money for a bit so I will do what I can with the bumpers and other little things till I can get a "loan" LOL Dave ----