FuzzFace2

That bushing is like hens teeth! I had to fix mine 2 times now. First was to get it back in shape to fit the plastic bushing back on the other was when the threads broke off the round part. Hope to never have to fix a 3rd time. Dave ----

I thought the first gen Broncos had some kind of floor shifter that looked close to the Mustang & Cougar auto shifters? Many be for the transfer case? Been a long time since I seen a first gen Bronco so could be wrong? As for the cable bracket something like a B&M one might work. Making one I don't think would be hard either. Dave ----

Right now the light will be flush on 1 side, the outside edge, and in about 1" to 1.5" on the inside edge but I am adding the filler all the way around the hole. Only thing I worry is if set back is to far the light pattern will be cut off on the inside. I also have to see how the fog & driving light patterns are. If 1 has a wider pattern I can mount the light so the wide pattern is the one that is flush so it will not be cut off from the set back. Worst comes to worst I have a 2nd bumper I would need to use a press to straighten and then mount the lights in the center flat part of the bumper but we did not like that look did we. I need a few grinding barbs & supplies before I can weld the fillers in but getting lazy to go get them. It is about a 30 min drive each way so may get them on the way home from work one day as it is only 15 min from work. It is also cold here that makes it harder to go to the garage LOL Dave ---- I hate broken promises! Well got to the garage today to do a little work. To give myself more room in the garage I pulled the truck out. Was going to let it run but have a leaking rubber freeze plug so checked the radiator and it was empty. That should have been a sign. Going to have to replace this plug some day as it did not have any heat or PSI as the cap was just placed on the radiator. So with room I started on the bumper mod again. I knew 1 of the light openings was smaller than the other so I measured both found the small one and marked for trimming. Got that done but the flat stock I cut before is now just a little to short but going to make it work as I don't have much more flat stock and it is for another project that I started many years ago. Before I got started with the welding I ran my knotted wired wheel on the inside of the bumper to clean up the rust then switched to a grinding where to get a good metal for welding. So after figuring how the magnets will hold the flat stock for tack welding I pull out the welder and get started. All was going good till the welder stopped welding? At first I thought the wire got welded to the tip as this will happen if to close to the work and I was because of the opening for this light is small. It did weld but something is still not right! Wire will not pull out like it should? Digging deeper it is something I can not fix on the spot ...... ran out of wire! Was going to call it a day but I got most of the welding done, I am nasty with sweat and dirt so why not grind down the welds. So I start on that with my 4" grinder the best I could. Then switched to a 90* die grinder that I had to fix 4 times. The head kept coming loose and the gear inside would not work. Think I got it now but may pick up another just in case and this one is not that old. So with the grinding done as far as I could go I wanted to check the fitment of the light. Not good it will not fit! I pulled off the mounting bracket and it now fits in the bumper housing. But now have to figure how I am going to mount the lights as I was going to weld a tap on the bumper and bolt the light bracket to it. I think I can cut the brackets and use it as the weld tabs the light will bolt to. I just need to make sure I have adjustment of the light output left & right, up & down I don't think will be an issue. Sorry no pictures yet. At that point I called it a day. Oh what was that promise you ask? I promised myself to have the bumper done today so I could take them to work with me and if I got out early one day to swing by the car wrapper to see if they can wrap the bumpers. Dave ---- I see my older posts are showing pictures? When I posted them from my site before the domain issues are they then hosed here some how? I am happy for that so no broken links like on that other Ford site I will see if I can fix when I get my site back up, DNS issue right now I am trying to get fixed.

Nice job Cory. You know when you get it painted and on the truck it will make the rest look really bad right? Just giving you a hard time. Cant wait to see it done and on the truck. Dave ----

Good to see someone has some steam, I have lost a little and just cant get back in the garage Did I ask why the HEI dist.? The one you have would work just fine. On the shim. All you can find are the small square ones used on mostly GM cars or front ends to get caster/camber back to speck. I felt they would not give enough support like the long ones Ford used. They also tend to rust and did not want that under my hood. Keep going doing good Dave ----

Some times they leak. You could build another C6 and do the swap, you would need to drop & install the C6. or Drop your C6 pull the converter out, pop the seal out and new one in doing the same for the rear one too. Install the C6 and be on your way. I cant see the 2 seals being more than $20 or $30 and a few qt of ATF. What would a 2nd C6, someone to rebuild in run? I am thinking maybe $1000? If me and the one you have now works I would drop it, change the 2 seals and enjoy. My .02 Dave ----

No it goes in front of the factory stick trany. https://www.advanceadapters.com/categories/ranger-torque-splitter/236/ At first I was looking a Gear Vender OD unit but it cant be used below think 30 MPH. So I could not use granny gear and the GVOD (granny+OD) to get going from a stop with a load. That is why I was looking at AA Ranger Torque Splitter as you can use it at any speed. I have also seen posts where they used electric solenoid to shift it in & out of OD in place of the lever. If you have seen the 2 speed rear shift buttons that bolt to the main shifter you can use that and the solenoid to shift it in & out of OD. As with either the GVOD or the AAOD units as the video shows you don't need to split every gear because the spread between them is so close it is not worth it unless under a heavy load and maybe not then. The other thing with the Ranger Torque Splitter being fitted in front of the factory trany if you have a 4x4 you get to keep it and use 4x4 and OD at the same time, cant do that with the GVOD unit and it goes off the back of the transfer case to the rear axle only. Dave ----

You know what they say don't you? No picture(s) it did not happen Dave ----

Thanks for the tip on the door panels & slider locks. I hope I can remember that when I go to put mine back together after painting. Heck I hope I remember how the insides go back in the doors after years being apart. What are you doing with the seat? I have not looked does LMC sell a re-cover kit where you pull what is left of the old one off. Then re-pad and put the new back on? I have 1 rip in mine that is not bad and I bought a cover but would be nice to have the factory look to the seat with out rips. Dave ----

It looks better in the pics than real life. The truck needs a lot of cleaning, paint, freshing up. Do you guys know what kind of shims the factory used on the fenders and doors? This truck has some kind of weird shim, its like a heavy duty cardboard or something. I think the previous owner replaced the passenger door and possibly the fender at some point. The door for sure, it is black under the door panel. The drivers side was blue under the panel. I did not find or seen posted of shims for the doors as you should have more then enough adjustment between the door post to hinge (front/back & up/down) and the door to hinge (up/down & in/out). Now that fender shim up by the cowl, don't you love it! It is some type of pressed board and over the years when pulled they fall apart. I was able to save enough to make a pattern. I took this pattern and used it to make new shims using 12"x12"floor tiles. It is a flex-able type tile like you would find on a store floor but hard to compress. I made a bunch but I found when fitting the fenders and tightening them down they would fall apart when removed to add/remove shims to get the fender lines right. Once I knew how many was needed on each side I made that amount and installed them. I am happy with them so far but truck is not on the road yet. I would say the door with the black under the panel has been replace as there is no need to paint there as it gets covered up like you found. Dave ---- Oh forgot looking good. On the motor paint I went Ford blue because I did not know what color it should have been till after it was painted. Myself I like the blue over the gray. It may have something to do with seeing and painting gray floors for 15 years, engineering at a hospital. Dave ----

It looks better in the pics than real life. The truck needs a lot of cleaning, paint, freshing up. Do you guys know what kind of shims the factory used on the fenders and doors? This truck has some kind of weird shim, its like a heavy duty cardboard or something. I think the previous owner replaced the passenger door and possibly the fender at some point. The door for sure, it is black under the door panel. The drivers side was blue under the panel. I did not find or seen posted of shims for the doors as you should have more then enough adjustment between the door post to hinge (front/back & up/down) and the door to hinge (up/down & in/out). Now that fender shim up by the cowl, don't you love it! It is some type of pressed board and over the years when pulled they fall apart. I was able to save enough to make a pattern. I took this pattern and used it to make new shims using 12"x12"floor tiles. It is a flex-able type tile like you would find on a store floor but hard to compress. I made a bunch but I found when fitting the fenders and tightening them down they would fall apart when removed to add/remove shims to get the fender lines right. Once I knew how many was needed on each side I made that amount and installed them. I am happy with them so far but truck is not on the road yet. I would say the door with the black under the panel has been replace as there is no need to paint there as it gets covered up like you found. Dave ----

Thanks DB that is a lot of hoops to jump thru to keep plates. Your not kidding. I have a brother there and he likes doing diesel swaps for off road rigs or has older stuff so no testing but he does have to jump sometimes for that first plate after the swap. But it sounds like he has it down pretty good. He also told me if too many issues to get plates the car / truck is cut up, some parts sold, and scrapped. Dave ----

You did not say if style side or flare side so will post what I have seen on my 81's, 1 of each. I would first start at the fuses. I would pull each one and test with a ohm meter. If you check in place note not all fuses have power to them all the time. Some only have power when that system is turned on and the truck may need to be running or the key turned to run. Once you know all the fuses are good and of the right amps you can find the 1 for running lights and with the truck running, lights on check that fuse if it has power in & out of it. Now outside the truck on the inside frame rail where the floor & firewall meet the rear wiring harness plugs into the trucks main harness. I would pull this apart to make sure it is in good shape then test for power to the rear lights. Remember the switch has to be pulled out (on) to get power at that plug. You will have 1 wire that the power will be about 5-7 volts or if using a test light will blink. This is normal as it is the fuel gauge sender wire. If you have a helper or jump out the brake light switch, Think 2 other wires will have power to them. This would be the left & right turn/brake light power wire. You should also have another wire that would have power when the reverse lights are on. So you should have wires in the plug for: right turn/brake light left turn/brake light running lights fuel sending unit(s) (if duel tanks you may have another wire that would blink when the other tank is switched to) wire to the switching valve depending on year and motor reverse light and may have a ground When at the back IIRC both of my 81 trucks had another harness for the rear lights that plugged into the frame rail harness. I would check for power here before plugging in the light harness. Should have: right turn/brake light left turn/brake light running lights and may have a ground Now my flare side was a mess at this point so cant help much but from what I have found (could be wrong also) each light was grounded to the body. I can no longer get factory lights so I will do what is need when the time comes. On the style side the lights had a ground wire that was screwed to the body behind the light. Some have said they don't have this and the lights ground thru the wiring harness. Either way if you don't have power back there a ground will not make a difference. Dave ----

Even if you heard the squirt you will find most of the time you will when you work the throttle by hand. With day light open the choke and look down inside and move the throttle just a little it should squirt. Most of the time I find they do not. The Holley you can adjust this and should squirt with any throttle movement. When you rebuild it you will see all the adjustments the Holley carb has. I have never had good luck on the pump cam adjustment but had with going with bigger squiters, where the fuel comes out. As a guess it is a 28 and I found 30 or 31 works for me most of the time. I also have 1 or 2 Holley's with a 50cc pump on it, they come with 30cc pumps. When you do rebuild it with pen & paper make note of the squirter(s) number, main jet numbers, power valve number you install from the kit (6.5 as a guess) and what hole the pump screw is in. This way you know what is in it to start and if you need to make changes up or down you know with out pulling the carb apart to check. Dave ----

That is the best thing to do. Get it running and go from there. I do not expect my 81 with a 300 six to be a killer but I am pretty sure it will do 55 and maybe even 70, the max MPH here. I also have a 4sp (granny low) and a 2.75 rear gear. Only thing I have done is EFI exh. manifolds into the stock exh. system running the stock v1 carb. I am looking more for MPG than top speed or power. My 02 Durango, 360 EFI v8/ auto OD /3.92 rear gear, gets about 15 mpg on a good day so anything close I will be happy. If I come across other performance parts cheap I may buy them but for now the F100 will stay as it is. Dave ----

On my 81 with a 300 six it was easy. I had the cluster out for replacing bulbs (LED's) and paint the needles. Beside the tach gauge you also need the printed film for a tach cluster. I did not need to do anything else but have heard of some needing to do something with a plug under the hood. Also if you have a six try to find a tach with a max of think it is 4000 as the six will never spin to the 6000 of the other v8 tachs. I do have a 6000 in mine with the six, could not beat the price of the tach & film from a member. thanks Jonathan Dave ----

Do they do a visual inspection now on the others that are exempt? What do they go by for this inspection is there a photo of each and every motor what & where the parts are / should be? What do they do now to the 77 and newer cars & trucks, sniff & look see testing? Dave ----

Looks good almost like a new truck LOL. There were cars that had black dash pads with other color seats and door panels. Ever see a white inside with a white dash pad ......... nope it was black. Had a 63 Buick Skylark drop top: white body / black top and white inside but the dash was black. I also have a cover overlay I got from a member. I have only tried a quick fit and looks to fit pretty good. I have a 2nd dash pad that I will try some of the posted repairs to. If it works great if not oh well on the shelf it goes it get in the way too much. Dave ----

Anyone know who makes JBG seals? I have seen it posted LMC seals do not last too long and I don't know who makes them. Anyone check out Denis Carpenter for seal kits? I don't remember if I have in the past or not at this point I do like the full set from JBG, throw in vent window rubbers and rear glass and you get everything covered from the looks of it. Dave ----

I did a swap with a member a radiator for the EFI manifolds. I bought the Y pipe, look up cats as that is the only way I could find it, think thru Rock Auto. The opening where the Y is welded was good as I hear some are almost closed when they welded the pipe on. I did not use the cat. I had the stock exh from the parts truck that was like new so I picked up a 6" pipe to join the Y pipe and the rest of the system together. Wish it was not so quite but other than the Y & 6" pipe it was a free up grade. And yes I also bought the heater plate for the bottom of the stock intake manifold. I had to make a gasket for this as the part did not come with one and the one in the manifold kit I don't think would seal. Now before you install the manifolds lay the intake & exh. on a flat surface and check where the thick washer fit to hold the manifolds to the head. IIRC something had to be done, sand down the exh. manifold?, to make the washer sit flat. I used a belt sender, sand a little, test, sand some more, etc. till it sit flat. I also bought studs & nuts. Thread the studs into the head and use the nuts to hold a manifold wile you fish the other manifold into place and get the nuts started. Then you get to do the same for the other exh manifold & intake. One of them jobs 3 hands would be good LOL. Dave ----

Cory, you do know the frame mount for the motor mounts are different for the 240/300 than the 302. If you don't have a set see if you can get them from the guy with the 300 if he is pulling the motor from a P/U. I know the 300 frame parts are a bolt on, not sure on the 302 ones as I don't have any to look over. Dave ----

That's essentially the same as " - "; NOT very specific information. I've towed some pretty heavy crap with my 4.9L 4sp 3.08 Bronco; both locally and on rural highways in LA, TX, & TN. And even though I tow at appropriate speeds, it's not a guarantee. This was nowhere near the most weight or the fastest I've towed: https://supermotors.net/getfile/65169/thumbnail/roll_tnt_f.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/65166/thumbnail/roll_car.jpg So don't start off towing near the max. Tow an empty flatbed utility trailer around town; tow the UNloaded camper around town for a few days - just to find out how the truck responds, and to get in the practice of driving (wide turns) and backing it. Then tow it loaded around town at low speeds before getting it on a major road at highway speeds. The others have that part covered pretty good but ............. Does the truck have an add on trany cooler beside the one in the radiator? If not you should add one, heat kills auto tranys. Add it after the radiator one. Don't know what mirrors the truck has but if they are the dinky little car type mirrors and the left one is "closer than they look" mirror get a set of trailer towing mirrors. I have a set that fit on the doors. they hook in the top where the glass is, rubber bumpers brace on the middle of the door and has a bungie that hooks on the bottom of the doors. They sit just outside the stock factory mirrors and with the 2 sets gives me a good view behind me. The other would be a weight distributing hitch set up. This helps when the tong weight is too high or the trucks springs cant handle the weight of the trailer. When setup right it will raise the rear / tong up putting more weight on the front of the truck. It can also help to control sway but they make a device that can also be added to the hitch to control sway. Also part of the sway make sure the tires on the truck are pumped up. I like to run max PSI when I tow, it keeps the side walls stiffer and helps stop sway. That's all I can think of right now. Dave ----

Little late but that looks like it is for the 300 six motor. They are known to break 1 of the ears off. I can tell you, you can get them thru local auto parts stores (cheaper) but you have to check them close. The first one I got the heater hose nipple was to large for the "connector", I had to get one from a different chain. Dave ----

Man do they look good ...... no make that GREAT! Job well done After you are done working them it would be nice to dip them to get any rust that is on them off then dip to coat them so they will not rust again in our life time. Dave ----

Sounds like a cheaper plan. The real reason I went with the EFI manifolds is my motor cam from something unknown. In order to hook up the exh. I wanted to replace the head pipe and got one for my 81 300 six, yep did not fix. I was lucky a member on another forum had the EFI manifolds and I had a radiator he needed for his project so we did a swap. The only way to get the Y pipe now days is with the cat, that is how I had to look it up as there was no listing for the EFI Y pipe other wise. Using the almost new exh system from my parts truck I was short about 1' from Y pipe (no cat) to the factory mid pipe. A trip to the parts store got the Y pipe and rest of the system hooked up. You can hardly hear the truck running with the stock exh system but I could not bring my self to not use the parts truck system when you have little money for the project. What is nice is I can get any part for this truck at any parts store as it is all factory parts just need to know the year, EFI Y pipe and the AC when I get it put together. Dave ----