FuzzFace2

I got to looking and found this on the SEM site https://www.semproducts.com/products/repair/interior-repair I am going to go with the texture spray and paint over it. The other product I will have to look into more for the dash pad fix. Dave ---- edit: just saw the video and it needs heat to make it work so if you don't have a heat gun you might not be able to use this.

Go ahead rub it in I been meaning to check with the banker (wife) to see when retirement can happen but hope in 7 to 8 years or when my Home Land security has to be renewed and I think that is 5 years. If I need to work them last 2 or 3 years then not do LP gas in the winter or go to the ports for cement pick up, we will see when the time comes. Dave ---- I got out of work early so I stopped and ordered 2 cans of the SEM textured paint. Should be in sometime tomorrow they say. I have the 4 kick panels and when I finish the repair to the dash pad I want to put texture on it before painting it. I also asked if there was something to repair / fill the cracks on the dash pad then add the texture and paint. His answer was NO or he would have used it to fix a few of his dash pads. At this point I need to look over the pad I started to fix and hope I can remember what I used up to that point because I can remember off the top of my had at this time.. Dave ----

Go ahead rub it in I been meaning to check with the banker (wife) to see when retirement can happen but hope in 7 to 8 years or when my Home Land security has to be renewed and I think that is 5 years. If I need to work them last 2 or 3 years then not do LP gas in the winter or go to the ports for cement pick up, we will see when the time comes. Dave ----

It will be a long wait on how the vents work if that is what you meant. Someone also say SEM makes a textured pad I think it was but he might of meant the spray that you linked to. I did not get home till after 5pm, out the door at 4am, and I an sure they close at 5pm. I am doing the same job tomorrow so don't think I can get there then either. It would be nice to have the texture paint for the weekend, I think I can swing a few spray cans of paint LOL Dave ----

Thanks GaryMy paint supplier carries SEM products so I will have to check with them if they have it and if not to get a can or 2 so I have them when needed and I will report the out come but my be a few weeks till I can get to them as my work hours don't work on when they are open and I have to work next weekend and think they are only open half day on Saturday's.I am sure where I got the SEM under coat for texture, Google on dash repair from a BMW site, was old and SEM may not of made this back then.Dave ----

After I posted it is a lot of work done just did not think that at the time. I did not know SEM made that product and will have to look into it. I seen an older post (Google on dash repair was a BMW site) where the person used SEM under coat to get the texture. He may not known or SEM did not make the textured product back then. You know I will report back on what ever I use but that product looks to be what I need to use with SEM paint for the panels. As for the AC & non-AC vents leaking I cant report as I have not driven my truck, or any, with the vents but I can see your point. Now my cab was a non-AC cab but as you know added factory AC but plan to keep the non-AC vents for more air flow. I am also thinking, wishing, the truck will be on the road before I have the AC working so going to need the vents. I also have a slider rear glass that needs to be replaced because of missing seals but it should give good air flow thru the cab. I also have a flat glass I may be stuck using till I have funds to buy a slider. Dave ----

I will have to check my truck (81) on how the seat belt light deal works. IIRC it only comes on for a few seconds then out. I don't remember any plugs to the belts or the seat only to the dome light in that back corner but has been a wile since I was messing with any of this. Dave ----

Well what do you know I installed the belts and it looked like the center belts have the twisted type supports. The belts are not thru the seat as I think I will need to pull it out again to install the rubber mat or the more classy padding & rug? If you need pictures I can get a few for you. In looking at the belts I found where I put the behind the seat storage rack ....... yep behind the seat! In the parts truck it was velcroed to the rear wall and will need to do the same or it flops all over the place. Dave ----

Did a little work to the truck. Dummy me when I put it back in the garage the last time I left the battery hooked up and being I don't have the dash together the light switch is on and the dash lights, only light on the truckat this time, killed the battery so on the charger it wend for a few hours. I was going to work on the door panels removing spray paint someone put on but looking closer it was not worth the time. One has a chunk missing for the slider lock opening and had a crack near the arm rest. Both had that dry powder under the paint I would also need to deal with so when time comes I will get new ones and the lock sliders as I don't have any. Moving on I have one of them over head trays, you remove the viziers blot this tray in place using the same screw holes and bolt the viziers to it. It has a fuzzy covering that was coming off in places so I took it off. I hope to use this as a test bed to add texture and paint before I do any of the panels inside the cab. I don't know if I will use it because when a test fitted it, it looked to sit to low blocking the top of the glass. Next up were the kick panels, I have 2 sets AC & non-AC and wanted to prep both sets for paint. Like most panels in our trucks they were dried out. I sanded them down, use a small wire brush that worked pretty good and then gave them a good bath. I need to find something to add texture back to the sanded areas, why the test bed above, before I paint them. I then looked at my dash bezels, 2 sets custom that came with the truck and has heavy coats of paint on them and the XL from the parts truck that are wood grain. The wood is not in great shape and may look into redoing it at some point. So I took the painted radio bezel and used some old brake fluid on a tooth brush to coat and work it in. A few hours later it looks like it is working but I also see it is broken and will need to be repaired to use. I also mixed up some JB Weld for the nicks on the bumpers so they will not show up when wrapped or painted. Dave ---- forgot to post this last night

I was wondering what the parts looked like after sanding and painting? "My only complaint is that you can still see the boundary between the good plastic and the plastic I sanded down". I sanded down 2 sets of kick panels, AC and non-AC and washed them. I did not want to paint them till I added some texture and wondered if you did and what you used. I see you did not add texture. I seen posted that SEM makes an under coat that dries and leaves a texture that I want to try. I have also used a sand type spry paint that might also work if I can find it down here as it was up in CT I used it. Dave ----

Yep, I'm starting to get the picture, thank you. Speaking of which, you asked for a picture of mine. The driver's belt is still in the truck (I didn't want to break the electrical connector trying to disconnect it), but the others are here: Great now you gave me something else I need to look into I cant remember if I installed the belts back in or they are in a storage bin? I am sure 1 set of belts are in the bin. Dave ----

After what you did to the lil pick up that column part mod should have been easy. Looks good think Cody did the same mod on has when he installed the 5sp. Dave ---- edit: Did the column shift have a reverse lock out? I ask because I have a car that did and the rod was removed before I got the car. Because of this the column part would turn and then the key part would bind up. When this happened and was forced it would break the R&P up inside the column. Again before I got the car and had to rebuild the column and lock part and lockout the reverse part to keep it from turning.

To bad none are close to me or I would have one as the better one I have has a lot of filter and I know it will be a little wavy. I also know you have to check the frame side of the hood really good as they like to rust out by the hinge mounts as I have one like that now. Dave ----

There always is I have (gasp) the last bit of dreaded body work and think I have enough paint to paint the under side of the hood so I can get it on before I paint the cab. I also have the door panels that a PO spray painted black. I have a qt. of old brake fluid I want to try and see if it will lift the paint but not hurt the panel. If that works out I can then use SEM to paint them and the other parts for inside the cab to match the dash I have already painted. And speaking of dash I have the pad I started to repair that I should also finish some day but I don't think it is the one I will use as I have a pad topper to used. Dave ----

Thank you Gary I will check it out again. Dave ---- That's what I've observed, for all '80-96 1/2-ton Ford trucks. From what I've seen working on trucks & in JYs, they varied the length of the intermediate cable between the pedal (front) cable & the equalizer. IOW: there's only 1 left cable, 1 right cable, 1 pedal assy. w/cable, 1 tension limiter/equalizer; but several intermediate cables for the various wheelbases. Broncos got no intermediate cable (until '92-96, when the tension limiter was deleted). I'd guess they just moved the cable mounting hole on the backing plate so it's the same distance from the e-brake lever. But I don't think I've ever seen a truck with 10" drums to actually compare. Even the '75 Bronco I built had 11s on its 9" axle. https://supermotors.net/getfile/730019/thumbnail/shoes.jpg I haven't paid much attention to the (4-wheel) drums on the '74 Bronco I'm working on now, but I'll probably get more-familiar than I want with it soon. The 10" I believe is used on the 5x4.5 wheel pattern 9" axles. I have not measured my parts truck drums but I can after I dig it out from hiding. On this intermediate cable, I don't remember seeing any on either of my trucks. The front cable goes to the tension limiter/equalizer then the rear cables hook to it. 1 truck is a short bed the other a long bed both standard cabs. Dave ---- Well can’t spend any money on the truck for a bit. Had to drop $200+ with home land security to renew my port & HazMat credentials and I still need to take the HazMat test, more $$, with NCDOT to keep it on my driver license. This way I can do the LP gas loads come winter and get cement at the ports in the summer. I am lucky my employer pays for my medical card renewal every year, did that the same day as the credentials, that was another $100 I think it is or I can’t keep my CDL license. Who said being a truck driver is easy & cheap? Dave ----

An 80 durometer roller is pretty hard and while it's good at linoleum block prints and for pressing together contact glued surfaces I think it might want to skid on steel when covered in OneShot. The 40 durometer roller is used for inking more textured surfaces like weathered wood blocks for printing. I thought it might work better in this application. It's not soft like a sponge paint roller, and you don't have to use much pressure to get the ink onto your surface. So, my admission is that I have never used a brayer in this way, but my intuition tells me that the 40 would work better with the slick sign lettering enamel. You might go to a crafts store like Michaels or Joanne's and see if you can compare them side by side. The best idea I can give you is that 80 is like belt leather wrapped around the wooden core while 40 is thicker crepe rubber like the sole of a hushpuppie shoe. When I went looking for a roller the ones I found I also thought they were too hard and why I did not get one. As for the rubber being too soft and paint going down over the edges of the letters the paint will do this on its own from what I had seen in posts. BTW the posts are in the older truck area if you want to search for them. Dave ----

I think with all that work you could use the duel fenders and get the 4 1/2" flare or more and I don't think you would need the rise and you would had the right opening shape. Dave ----

You may want to put some mat on the back wall and pull the door panels and add some to the outer door skin as they both will be like big drums. Dave ----

Then we both are showing our age. I was thinking some of the road racing cars did the same bulging fenders to fit wider wheels & tires. When I Googled all I found where the trucks for pictures. I was also thinking if it was me that wanted to do this how I would go about it. I am also cheap (read poor ) and why I was thinking the duel rear wheel fenders as a start for the bulge. They might look a little boxy but it would have the shape & lines to match the body. Sometimes its not how it looks but how it works! Dave ----

Sure. But, like Dave, you're a gentleman of refinement and understand these things. Neither my wife nor my HOA share that understanding. Now...if we end up retiring to Colorado (around 2035 or so) as I suspect we will (my wife is in charge of our retirement locale, and that's her current thinking), one of my non-negotiables will be that we have a place where I have room for a proper shop/garage along with the necessary number of vehicles to populate it. So, what's your dream project? It changes over time. Originally, it was a 1958 Cadillac of some flavor: Then I got attached to the 1949 Cadillac fastback/sedanette: But then I realized that I needed to set my sights on something more affordable. So my current (and most likely final) target is the '65 Impala: A guy on the big Chevy forum I monitor did a beautiful build of a '65 Impala with an LS3-480 swap. Something like that would be just about perfect for me. When the wife and I were looking to move and did moved in 2015, NO HOA and had to have room for or have a garage and land so I could park a trailer truck as that was the job I was looking for. The more we looked I could see even having the room the garage would not get built. We were lucky to find a house we both liked, ranch so no steps as we are both 60, had the garage I wanted and land so I could park a trailer truck and the big one NO HOA! Only thing that could have been better with the garage is if it was high enough for a lift inside and had heat & AC but after electrical & lighting upgrade and me piping my air compressor I am happy and was a big upgrade from a small 1 car garage and no land. I always wanted a 59 Impala as mom & dad said that's what I came home in from the hospital and AC Cobra does not have to be the real deal and a 302 or 351 would be fine with a 5sp. But need to finish my 70 AMC Javelin before I think of anything else to take on. It's dreams that keeps us going Dave ----

What am I chopped liver I pointed Steve where to look in my post. J/K I am guessing this was a Ford option? I know when I added air horns to my 86 K5 Blazer with a 6.2 diesel, no vacuum, I had to go with the type that had a small compressor turned by a 12v motor and small belt. It would build 110 psi and came with a hose to blow up tires. Dave ----

Thank's Need all the Luck I can have, Nothing against an Hydro Clutch it is just my fire wall doesn't have the holes to mount the master for it guess you can drill them out. Thinking I may want to keep the my extra pedal box that is for power brakes and hydro clutch, I'll move it to my shed for later. All great Ideas, just wish there where more obs trucks in my area. lol would newer pedals work in this older truck. Oh no, but I guess I'm having some trouble with my one caliper sticking a bit and cant seem to find the leak lol. more reasons to upgrade I guess Brakes are something I don't go cheap on .... well mostly. If 1 caliper is sticking the other will most likely down the road so I would replace them both, new pads and turn the rotors or new. Out back new wheel cly. & shoes maybe a spring kit. Replace all the rubber hoses, 2 front 1 out back. Now you said something about a leak? Is the master loosing fluid and if so is it from the one close to the booster of fire wall? Fluid can leak into the booster to the point it is full and gets sucked into the motor and makes a smoke cloud! If no booster it can leak down the firewall on the inside and the padding / rug soak it up. Pull the pad / rug back and check if non-power breaks. My "well mostly" I used the master & booster from my parts truck. Was being used till the owner put it on it's roof, so I was thinking it had to be good ......... WRONG! The booster leaks vacuum when brake pedal is pressed and the master will sink if you have your foot just resting on the pedal. It is ok for me to move in / out of garage but will be replaced then everything on mine will be new. Dave ----

As it happens, my basement dehumidifier can dry a truck out like nobody's business: I could probably start painting after dinner if I wanted to. Only four vehicles! Heck I have four project vehicles, 2 in my 3 bay garage, 1 on the trailer outside my garage and 1 in the house garage. We each have our own everyday cars, mine an 02 Durango with 225K on it hers an 2013 Subaru. LOL I guess that dehumidifier would dry it out like nobody's business LOL Dave ----

The head board and front and rear sills are all expensive pieces imho. I recently purchased all of them new. The crossmembers are cheap...but the sills are more complicated parts to make. The front sill is an important one because it is also where the step brackets attach to the bed. I just got my new headboard for my '84 back from the body shop today: If you want to know what the bottom lip is supposed to look like, see below. It attaches to the front sill all across the bottom. You could have a sheet metal shop make a new flange and weld it into place, but it would be a fair amount of work. If you're handy with a MIG welder and a flap disk, then that would be the cheapest solution. Here is a picture of the new headboard and front sill assembled with the step brackets before I took it all back apart again to be painted. Cory, I think you are about 2 years to late on that front panel picture of how it bolts up. I had nothing to go by and thought it bolted to the top of the floor so that is how I made mine. For mine I think it works good on top of the ribs, it lets dirt & water out the front where with the factory set up it is trapped. Dave ----

Dan, does the truck have an air horn mounted some where? That first picture looks to be a vacuum power air compressor. It uses engine vacuum to work the compressor to build air PSI and it is stored in the tank in the 2nd picture. There looks to be a electric valve, the thing with wires out the end, and when power is put to it, it opens and lets air to the horns. Dave ----