FuzzFace2

Ok now I got it. So if I was starting with a new uncharged could I pull a vacuum like normal then fill it to the Temp / PSI of the top chart and then do the final "tuning" use the bottom chart? Or will it not work that way? Dave ----

I fixed it for you I am not much into the shaved part. Badging and chrome but I hate the look of shaved door handles. Flush mount is fine but it have to have a door handle to open the door from the out side. I have also added a 50's custom touch to my truck - floating bumpers! As for with or with out the oval or the hood letters: If you keep the 6 letters then I think the oval looks good as now you know it is a FORD and the model. With out the oval you don't know who makes it. Dave ----

Yes it was. I did not get primer on the panels like I wanted but the panels were not finished as nice as I thought they were and needed more work to pass before primer. If not for that I think primer would have been sprayed. Also walking pass the dash pad I used the seam sealer on I see it did sink into the cracks but has a much better base to work with. I also wanted to do some work to it but the temperature was just to hot to stay in the garage longer. Have to see what mama has planed but I may get there before it gets hot and get primer on the panels so they will not rust and do a little more work to the dash pad. Dave ----

Customers equipment broke yesterday wile I had a load (26 tons of powdered cement) on my work truck and they could not get it fixed for today so I had it off. Not wanting to waste a day off I hit the garage at 6am and it is to be the hottest day of the year so far. I gave the gauge bezel another coat of brake fluid as it still has some paint stuck to it and hit it thru out the day. Found a bucket added water a little dish soap and some wet/dry 320 & 400 grit sand paper to sand the spot putty spots on the front fender and hood I did last time working on it. Front fender came out great hood not so great. After wet sanding half the hood I did not like what I was seeing. Broke out the DA air sander with 220 grit paper to get the whole hood where I wanted and then hit it with spot putty. Hit the bezel with fluid again and took a little break for food. Putty was dry so I wet sanded it and am happy the way it turned out and is ready for primer as is the front fender and a spot on 1 rear fender. When checking the rear fender I see marks that need to be fixed before primer again. I wet sanded the running boards, they had been treated for the rust a wile back and are now ready for primer. I rinsed the gauge bezel off with water and I see it is also broken like the radio one is. Think both can be glued back together, then a light coat of black satin paint and should be good for a driver but I want to use the wood bezels to match the wheel. I wanted to get primer on the hood, fenders and running boards but it was 100*f by 12pm and I had enough of the heat. Maybe I can get out tomorrow to get everything in primer? Dave ----

Dave, The floor carriage bolts are stainless. They're 5/16" x 1 1/2" long. The originals were metric (8mm) and almost exactly the same length. I bought a set of flat headed stainless bolts to mount the fenders with...they came from Mar-K also, and they look just like the originals as far as profile goes. I'm not sure if they're a custom ordered bolt that Mar-K sourced or if they're just carriage bolts with the heads machined flat...I dunno. Oh...and no, I'm not painting any of the bolt heads. Just leaving them bare. If I went with stainless I would not paint them either. I have all the floor carriage bolts and the front panel to floor bolts that are zinc plated and I may just leave them that way. If the start to rust down the road I think I have enough I can paint and replace 1 at a time. Who am I kidding they will stay rusty LOL I will be painting the bed side to front panel bolts like the factory did. Thanks Dave ----

Hydro dipping takes some try & fail before you can get it right. From what I found a wile back when I looked into this there was a short window to dip the part. To me there was to much guessing when to dip for me to give it a try back then. I may look back into it again as I am older and dumber not to give it a try LOL The latest for me is looking into using wood grain wrap for the dash bezels. I got the ideal when in auto zone looking and saw wrap but they did not have the wood in the size I needed or I would have gotten it. Dave ----

Little late to the party All vary good information and as said only YOU can decide just how far to take the build. I also think a lot will have to do with how much of the work you can do or need to farm out. I would have to say mine is (going to be) between well done and DD, got out of hand of a DD fix I did not rebuild the motor, T18 trany or 9" rear as they all seamed ok on the short test drive I took when I bought it. I did replace the valve cover, oil pan & lifter cover gaskets as I am sure they were leaking based on all the dirt & oil on the truck. Frame was stripped of all parts, cleaned, rust treated and oil base black paint sprayed on. I was going to use the front suspension from my parts truck but ran into issues with wheels so I built the one from mine with new kingpins & bushing. The rear suspension springs & bushings looked good so I reused them. After cleaning the motor, trany, front & rear suspension they all got a fresh coat of paint. New clutch, pressure plate & throw out bearing and fixed the linkage as it was in bad shape. I did look over the wiring from the parts truck as I was going to use it for the AC & duel tanks before it went in my truck. Fixed and painted the parts truck dash because of the AC. For the brake & fuel lines I took the best from the 2 trucks to use and if any looked ? it was replaced. Brakes everything out back was replaced, up front I reused the rotors but the rest is new, all new rubber hoses. I still need to replace the master & booster as I found issues after installed from the parts truck, power for the non-power my truck had. Body work is why it turned in to a frame off. I replaced floors, rockers, cab corners, lower rear door posts and the lower inner & outer left door. This was all easier with the cab off the truck. I used the nose from the parts truck but had some dents, roll over, and molding holes I had to deal with. I have a flare side and had nothing left of the wood or cross braces. I could not see spending $1000 just for them on an $800 truck so I used the 8' style side bed floor in place of the wood one. This took a lot of work to pull off but looks factory when seen. I also used all the parts, inside & outside, from the part trucks duel tanks to make a custom duel tank flare side, never a factory option but looks factory stock. I started all this Dec of 2015 and this is how it looked last year on the 4th. I have done more custom work to it and rear fenders body work is done and in primer. Hope to get paint on it soon. BTW I have done all the work myself other than the machine work for the kingpins and I should have tried as the shop did not do it right. So how far do you want to take this rebuild? Dave ----

:nabble_smiley_blush:I forgot you asked I would not worry as you said it will crank some before it lights off. Only thing I worry of is if the oil filter is mounted side ways and the anti-drain back valve does not work. The filter drains, some over night, so when it fires up like the next morning you hear badness before oil gets pumped around. If you did not have any issues like this before you will most likely not after it sat some. Dave ----

So what chart do you go by? If I am reading them right the top psi is that high or low side? Also if you pick a temp of say 65*F the 2 charts do not match either PSI's? I was going to ask this "ambient temp" is this measured at the condenser or just out in the open? Dave ----

Yes there is a spring on it to keep it tight. Good to hear you are getting "seat time". Only seat time I get in mine is moving it in / out of the garage Dave ----

That will look sweet when done and with the metal strips who could tell it is only 3 pieces of ply wood? Question? On the carriage bolts are you going to paint the heads or leave them as they are zinc plated? I have been thinking of painting mine but would need to sand, prim, sand & paint and I am getting lazy now. I only have them down the bed sides and the front panel, no metal strips with the ribbed metal floor. Thanks Dave ----

On the AC what is it you need to know? Do you know why the system stopped working as that will help getting it running again. You have normal parts you replace when a system is opened up. The drier is a must. Orifice tube or valve. If running 134A change all the O-rings to match and the PSI switch as they are different between the r12 & 134A. Some say you can reuse the old hoses and others say replace them. Me I think I would replace them because of age. Now this leaves the condenser & evap. The only cond. you can get is for the later trucks that run 134A it is a little bigger and you need to space the bottom out. This pushes the center grille support out so you need to make changes to make this all fit. You can try to flush the evap. & cond. to make sure there is no crap in them. Because the cond. is the lowest part some just replace it. Just some of what I have ot from reading posts on AC fixes Dave ----

I am also guilty of getting carried away. Buy a cheap truck for trash runs that needed some work and do a body off frame rebuild. I am also on the "over" the 3 year plan! Yours is looking good like the rest of us a little bit at a time and before you know it it will be done. Dave ----

Born and raised in Stamford, cove area, till I moved south in 2015. As a kid walked pass FAG bearing going / come from school. Yale & Town was one of the big Manfg. back in the day. I forget what was in the Twin Rinks building before the ice skating? And then there was Clairol Manfg. I also did a few shooting matches as a kid at the firearms building. How come "mad hatter state" never made it to the car plates? LOL Dave ----

Dave, They are attached with 1/4" stainless bolts and nuts. The factory brackets were attached with rivets and some kind of adhesive that resembled body fill. I just put the 1/4" bolts in the same holes the rivets were in. Between the holes in the fenders and the holes in the brackets, there was little to no play for adjustment, so all I really did was check to make sure the the brackets were not sticking proud of the fender edges. I drilled the holes in the new bracket to directly copy the original bracket, and the mounting holes are quite large...maybe 1/2"?...So there's lots of wiggle room there. If I have any fitment issues I'll just "adjust" the problem holes with a die grinder. However, I expect they'll be OK. There was quite a bit of room for error there. I would think most people south of me...or south of the northern states will not have to replace these brackets. Mine were especially bad. Below is a picture of one of the better ones that was on my truck...lol. The ones on the driver's side were not in this good condition. It sound like you have it covered it was more for others that may try and make them and have them on the fenders then find out the bracket is to high or low to match the bed side studs. Speaking of inspiration...mine usually comes because I have no other choice...lol. Too bad the value is still so low on the Bullnose trucks. I paid too much for the old thing as it was, and I'll have way WAY more time and money into it than it will EVER be worth...lol, so I guess we can just say we're doing it to save another truck from the crusher, and to relive some fond memories from the 1980's. What I am not going to make a ton of money if I sell my truck So my full rebuild is for the love of it and to keep me poor then Dave ----

Just a WAG but if the trim is for a head liner you would have trim above the doors and across the rear window. The tab the seller talks about I think is under the door trim and not seen when in place. Where on the non-head liner trim you only have the "A" pillar trim, no over the door trim so the "A" trim is finished differently. Dave ----

All I see are 2 nuts for the $8, no chains or the brackets? Guessing the handle that is part of the chain. For something you cant really see when installed on the chain I would hit the local hard ware store for the nuts. Dave ----

Nice job Cory. Mine did have some rust but not bad to the point needing replacing. How did you attach the plates to the fenders? Looks like maybe pop rivets? If so did you fit the fenders to the side panels and fit the SS plates in place and mark the fenders where they should go? I ask because if the holes were drilled for the bed side studs and then put on the fenders in the wrong place the holes & studs will not line up. Dave ----

One thing that was partly brought up was the single belt and the belt slipping making noise. I here most of the time this happens at start up when you just pulled a lot out of the battery and the ALT is trying to charge it back up. You can install a slow start regulator into the ALT. This will bring the ALT on slowly and keeps the belt from slipping and making noise. When my 1G ALT goes out and I go with the 3G ALT because I only have a single belt this is the way I am going to go, slow start up. Dave ----

Yep about $38 a can. As for 1 can I have the dash to do and the 4 kick panels, maybe some other trim parts and maybe the storage tray that goes at the top of the windshield because it is alum. right now. Latex - yes in caulk as I thought it would have worked and it may have if the cracks were deeper. When I dug it out it was not vary thick, was sitting on top of the foam. I removed some of the foam to make the filler thicker thinking it may help. I was able to use a DA air sander on the seam sealer that was on it and I used the same stuff this time but that sealer has been on guessing a year or better so it has time to setup LOL. Yes sand build up and sand some more till level then texture and then SEM color coat. All this was after hour and a half of weed whacking today. I cut the grass yesterday for 3 hours and that was after a full day at work. Dave ----

What he said but is the gate side pointing to the rear sill panel? If so can you make a wedge spacer to put between the hinge & pocket base? I had to make spacers for both sides in that same place to space the gate away from the sill as it hit it when opening & closing. I used the same fender spacer floor tile traced the hinge on it and cut & drilled holes and works great. The chains came out looking good as new. I don't have access to a blaster so I just painted them silver. I used bike tire tube over the chains with a drain hole at the bottom. BTW truck is looking good Dave ----

Well we never know till we try right? LOL I just don't like using a heat gun to et the SEM repair putty to set. I have to look over the pad I started to repair to see if I can remember what I used so far. I want to say I used seam sealer but I had a big hole where the speaker and don't remember what the "filler" was. I may use this one to install the cover on and the other pad that is in better shape so thinking if I can fill the cracks use the SEM textured paint and then paint to see how it turns out. I will post what I do and the out come. Dave ---- During the week I ordered and picked up the SEM textured spray. I should have ask how much before asking for 2 cans, $75 and change it better work! I used JB Weld on the bumpers last week so I sanded it down so I can either get them wrapped or I can paint them when the time comes. Being I have the textured paint I took a look at the dash I started the repair on a wile back. After looking it over I saw that I did use expanding foam to fill the speaker hole, and latex in the cracks and covered it all with seam sealer. Well I was not happy on how it turned out. The foam expanded more and was to high and the cracks opened up. I sanded the high spot on the speaker area and at the cracks so I could see what I was working with, that is how I saw how I tried to fix it before. I dug out the cracks and made them deeper as I felt the filler I used before did not go deep enough to bite and keep from cracking, the latex I also think was the wrong product to use. I also think the flexing of the dash also had something to do with it cracking so when working on it I made the center a little higher this way when level it would push the cracks closed after they were filled. I used brushable seam sealer and a putty knife and forced it into the cracks. I did see later that the sealer sunk into the cracks more so I will need to take down any high spots and add more sealer to bring them up level, more to come. I finished cleaning the old paint off the radio bezel with the old brake fluid. It worked pretty good, washed off with water and when dry looks like it will need to be painted black again to look good. I also found it was broken in a few places but think I can glue it and not show up. With that turning out good I then started on the gauge bezel with the old brake fluid. I was worried about the light covers across the top but they seam to be ok with the brake fluid I hope it will remove the paint on them. I did see the wiper / light windows don't have the pictures in them but they are still covered in some paint still. So it is soaking in brake fluid till I get back to it in a few days. I then did what I hope will be the last of the body work. I was able to work the dent out of the fender to the point where I hope the primer and spot putty will make it smooth. I also used the spot putty on the hood to take care of a spot I did not like. When I get back on it I will wet sand the 2 spots and if not good will make them good before paint. Dave ----

Well we never know till we try right? LOL I just don't like using a heat gun to et the SEM repair putty to set. I have to look over the pad I started to repair to see if I can remember what I used so far. I want to say I used seam sealer but I had a big hole where the speaker and don't remember what the "filler" was. I may use this one to install the cover on and the other pad that is in better shape so thinking if I can fill the cracks use the SEM textured paint and then paint to see how it turns out. I will post what I do and the out come. Dave ----

If you knew the alignment was good you could have saved money LOL. Good job none the less. If you do get that 6.9 truck I don't think the flywheels are the same as the 1 you have. Easy to find out is to look both of the trucks flywheels up and if the part numbers are the same you are good then. Cant help on the $$ to offer. Dave ----