FuzzFace2

Cory, if you need other pictures let me know as I have the bed off and the fuel doors waiting for paint so think I can get some good pictures. Dave ----

Any way to get a picture of each grille color & chrome? And maybe pictures of the head light door colors that went with what grilles? I just cant picture what they should look like at this time and want to see what options I would have for my 81 wreck. Thanks Dave ----

Mine were not Peel & Stick tiles but that need glue put down first. They were easy to trim to size but I found when trying them and if you needed to undo the bolts to add or remove a shim they fell apart. I made enough that when I had the right number of shims I installed the same number when I did not need to mess to them again. I think if I had to do it again I would find something that would not fall apart after it was under pressure. Dave ----

OUCH! It looks like it has the right wire connection as my 81 had but I am not sure on the hose hook up but thinking they are for rubber hose as I think the 6 port used electric pumps and plastic hose? I got my valve off Ebay for a little more than half that. It did have a different connection but it came with the pig tail I soldered and heat shrink to the trucks wire. Dave ----

Dave, the heat and humidity is killing me here, and I'm a 1000 miles or so north of you...lol. Seriously...I was supposed to be finished all this stuff in the spring. I get it man. I say you cant rush perfection Dave ----

I have a big tank, read heavy, that should get them filled in 1 shot. I been wondering how I can use the garden tractor to drag it to the garage to fill them, that is lazy or conserving energy Dave ----

My truck has it, yes, but it is not installed in this picture. The fenders that I put on the truck are only temporary placements. The body shop ordered two new fenders. I had these ones from the '85 I scrapped. I've been doing everything possible to keep the labor hours down for the bodyshop, and part of that was hacking the old fenders off. Most of the bolts were rusted and stuck, so I spent a lot of time removing them and cleaning behind them, cleaning up the fender liners, etc, etc. It's really just to make things easier for them, which in turn is cheaper for me. The shop wanted to supply the fenders in case they have any fitment issues they can just return them for replacements. The driver's door shell I had to order out of the US. The "stone guard" or whatever that front valance between the bumper and grill is called I actually had a NOS Ford piece that I bought locally. Other than that they'll be doing both cab corners, and those I also bought locally. It sounds like you have it under control just did not want you to send the truck off for paint and they not have that /part. I also hear you on pulling everything apart and back on with better parts to keep the $$ down. Wished I could have done something to keep labor hours down but has not cost me $$ for labor Dave ----

I got home early (12pm) from work today but was just to tired (up at 3am) and the humidity was killer so never made it out to the garage. Yes have the hardware for the hitch but may need to make the bolts a little shorter to fit inside the tubes and that is after they are welded to flat stock to keep the bolt from turning as you cant get a wrench inside the tube to hold them. So not a 2 min job LOL. I also want to put the other 5 gal of gas in the front tank and see if that gauge moves a little like the rear tank did. I also need to get the garden hose reel with 100" of hose from the garden shed to the house and see if I have enough hose to reach my garage so I can use it for wet sanding. Thing is all 4 tires are flat so need to find my air tank as I don't have enough air hose to reach where it is at Maybe I am just putting off the sanding ....... you think Dave ----

On the head light doors will it flake off? If I was to use thinner I would try on the bottom or a place out of sight first. If it works then maybe finish it with rubbing compound or use the compound only. I cant tell but does your truck have the valance that goes between the fenders and between the bumper & grille? Should be body color but is maroon in my picture. Dave ----

After checking with 3 different places to get the bumpers wrapped in chrome, only 1 would try in a brushed stainless wrap because they thought the chrome would get scratched when applying it. That 3rd shop that would do the brushed stainless gave me another person to call, I was not given an address apt. only and my hours don't work well with that. So I am going to paint them. I was looking for spray can(s) for a bright silver and 1 place only had 1 can but ........ they also had QT's of pre-thinned in that color. It is Dupli-Color Paint Shop BSP202 Brilliant Silver and I will clear coat it with their clear of the same pre-thinned clear, it is a Lacquer paint. With the powder coat there was worry of what I could use to fill grind marks, ect. that the powder would work with then you had the heat of the over and the last was $$ to do both the front & rear bumpers? To have them wrapped at the 1 place was $250 to $300 IIRC don't know what powder coat would of been? I had a small air filter lid done in powder chrome to see how it would turn out and it came out OK but not like chrome. That was OK with me as the lid was not chrome from the factory but nickel plated and it came out close to that. It also had some rust pitting and that did show up and why I know the bumpers needed to be smooth. Think the Dupli-Color was $50 for the a QT of paint & clear. I have a lot of heavy coats of primer to fill the grind marks and been outside backing in the sun now for a few weeks. I will not paint them till after the truck is painted this way when done I can install them to keep them from getting marked up. When I get them done I will post pictures in here so other can see if that is how they want to go, paint, powder coat or wrap if they can find someone that will do it. Dave ----

Yes a land mark to have it run off its own tank. All the rubber supply lines are new when I put the tanks back in, even the small vent rubber hoses to the canisters up front. I am reusing the rubber filler hoses and it was 1 of them that was leaking at the tank, think the clamp was not tight enough. Only other thing I did not replace are the 2rubber grommets for the roll over valves and I will do them before I put the bed back on. On the radio wiring, I gave a look but only found the part numbers for the radios & speakers and doing a search found nothing. I went to that other site did a search and found what I needed just need to get out and test this radio now. It might be both of us that had the low hitch, I do remember someone else had it low also. When I put mine on I did it per the paper and after I got the bed on and then the bumper I did not like it that low. Before the flip Dave ---- We were to have rain since Firday night and be cooler ..... They should fire the weather man he was wrong on both counts. Sunny and 94* in my garage at 12:30 so called it a day but let me back up a little. Got out there about 7am and started cleaning out parts I had stored in the cab so I can blow it out really good before painting. I pulled the radio from the dash, no screws or wiring so was easy, so I could bench test it as the Ebay listing said "do not know if it works"? I am happy to report it does work, did not try the tape part, so for $60 I think it's a good deal. The radio came with pig tails so I pulled them from the radio. I did a little digging and found the yellow power wire, I have the others and did what was needed to solder & heat srink them to the trucks wiring that was cut when they PO removed the radio & HVAC controls. Think it took longer to find screws used to hold the radio to the dash. I want to use the wood grain bezel but it was cut a little to big but does not look to bad but it is made for the clock at the top and I don't have that so would need to close them off some how. I do have a black weave "Custom" that came with my truck that was also cut but I would need to open it up a little more and do some other repairs then try and get wood grain on it to match the gauge bezel & steering wheel. Before I installed the radio I made a trip to the hardware store to get the trailer hitch bolts but they were still closed till 10am and was not sitting around for half hour till then so on the way home I got 5 gal of gas for the front tank, never made it in got to hot and called it a day. That is when I went for the hitch bolts. When I got home and put them in the garage at 1pm it was now 96* yep time to call it a day besides I got to get up a 3am for work so I should rest a little LOL. Dave ----

There was a little loop there for it yes, and yes I did insert the plastic tube in there. It never occurred to me to check the later trucks for a filler hose...I never see them in the junkyards or being parted out. I'll check around and see what I can find. With my truck being a Flareside, the styleside fuel filler is not a direct fit...they are different. Maybe the 92-up Flareside filler will work if I can find one. In any case, I'll check the vent tube and make sure it is all OK. Cory, you are right on the style side & flare side fillers being different. The front tank on mine was a miss match of parts when I go it I just used parts to make it look nicer. For the rear tank I can remember what all I used but again I used what I had and to make it look nice. On the front 16 gal tank are you sure you got the right sender? I ask because most list the same sender for both the 16 & 19 gal tanks and this is not right. I have yet to test mine, well put 5 gal. of gas in the rear tank and it did move the needle hope to do the same on the front tank today. Dave ----

So what is needed to remove all the slop? Before I put mine back in I would like to go over it the if any slop fix it. BTW where did you get the bushings and have a part number? Thanks Dave ----

Yes a land mark to have it run off its own tank. All the rubber supply lines are new when I put the tanks back in, even the small vent rubber hoses to the canisters up front. I am reusing the rubber filler hoses and it was 1 of them that was leaking at the tank, think the clamp was not tight enough. Only other thing I did not replace are the 2rubber grommets for the roll over valves and I will do them before I put the bed back on. On the radio wiring, I gave a look but only found the part numbers for the radios & speakers and doing a search found nothing. I went to that other site did a search and found what I needed just need to get out and test this radio now. It might be both of us that had the low hitch, I do remember someone else had it low also. When I put mine on I did it per the paper and after I got the bed on and then the bumper I did not like it that low. Before the flip Dave ----

I don't see any screws in the wheel to keep the slicks from spinning on the wheels. He may have them on the back side but I would do both side so not to twist the slick on the wheel. It also hard to tell if he has the slick & wheel marked for 2 reasons: 1- if not screwed it the slicks are spinning on the wheel. 2- how much tire spin on take off he is getting A logger would tell him if he had slippage but not show where it was at like the marked wheel / tire. I would also guess he is running a 4 link suspension out back Dave ----

Little more work done to the truck. Last weekend I ordered parts off Ebay, 3 port fuel tank switch valve, Lic. plate light to fit the flare side plate bracket and a radio, so I would have them for this weekend. Checked to make sure the new (open box) fuel valve worked and switched out it out. Had to do a little re-wire job as the new valve did not have the same connection. With the valve in I then added 5 gal. of gas to the rear tank. This tank is the default tank if the valve should fail. Removed the gas can under the hood and hooked up the tanks fuel line. Gas Gauge moved from below empty to the empty mark and that is just fin with me. Good thing the bed was off as I seen a leak at the hose to tank. I took up on the clamp and hope that will fixe it. I also checked the other clamps. I also want to replace the 2 roll over / vents and rubber grommets because 1 is loose and I am sure will leak with more fuel in it. It now runs off it own tank! The lic. plate light & bracket will need a little "fitting" to bolt up but not too bad. I picked up the light socket pig tail for the light on the way home from work today and why I got a late start on it. I then fitted the cab filler plates used on flare sides to the cab and pop riveted them in place. I fitted the radio to the opening and it fits pretty good and even the cut up bezel I have only needs a little fixing to look good. I gave a quick look for the truck side for wires. I have the speaker wires and the dash light wire but cant find the power wire. I also did not know what the wires did on the radio side so did not want to test it, they did not know if it worked but it was cheap enough and has all the mounting brackets I can use on another radio if I have to. I have done a search and now have the wire colors and what they do so may give the radio a test tomorrow but still need to find the power wire on the truck side. The truck side the wires were cut but the radio came with a "pig tail" of the truck side I can splice. I did not like the trailer hitch hanging so low and could get it up higher if I flipped some brackets around. Thing is some of the bolts use locknuts and don't come off to easily. I broke 1, cut another off after welding them to keep from turning and the other 2 did come off. Got the hitch back on the truck but need to pick up new grade 8 hardware and tighten it all up. Dave ----

Correct! The jack handle also makes a dandy starter-whacking rod, as I discovered a couple of weeks ago. Thanks it's been years since the jack, handle & lug wrench have been under the hood. I have the jack & lug holders clean and painted, the jack, handle & lug wrench are together waiting to be cleaned & painted. Dave ----

Off Topic: I see in the picture and can just make out in Cory's picture the hood rod clip. Did all trucks have the hood rod & clip to hold it? :nabble_smiley_hurt:Wait that is not a hood rod clip is it? That is the jack handle holder as the hood has springs to keep it open. Sorry now back to that strange hole. Dave ----

Why not pull them and run an LED light bulb in blue or green? I know the covers look blue but if you go with the green LED's the color is pretty close to the factory light color thrown out. I cant remember if I left the covers on as they were not in bad shape and used white bulbs or removed them and used green bulbs? I could not use a LED bulb in the wiper / head light switch light or the HVAC light so that is still a stock bulb & covers. After looking at this picture it looks like I did green LED's. The lower left light is the wiper / head light switch light and you can see the HVAC to the right. Dave ----

Not a bad price even with $30 shipping as I don't think you will find many of them and someone knew that as it is gone! Dave ----

I could be wrong but my 81 has the sliding door locks I am not seeing the opening for the slider assy. Dave ----

Yup, and they do the same thing with tailgates. Drill a hole in the ends, and then run the wand back and forth through a few times to coat the inside. It's no big deal and you can't see the plugs with the gate closed anyway. It drips out the drains, but it does leave a nice film behind. It's funny...but after a while the drips stop, but then when the vehicle is sitting out in the hot sun, it will start to drip again...so it really is a commitment once you start doing this...lol. Glad the body guy is good with rustproofing. It really is important that the product (whatever it may be) get into the right places. A door, or a tailgate for that matter, is never going to rust from the middle out...they start at the edges and around openings where the seams are. It's a big enough business here that there are shops that only do rustproofing, and nothing else. Then there are lots of places that offer it up as an extra. In any case, good luck with it! A week or so ago I was looking over 3M on Youtube and came across a hour+ video on Corrosion Protection on newer cars & trucks after they have been repaired, it was an eye opener! This is not the one I watched but I am sure it talks of the same stuff from just the 2 min. I had seen of it. In short you want to use the3M cavity wax with wand, this stuff creeps every where. It looked to be close to the stuff Eastwood's internal frame coating with wand. BTW you guys talk of the fenders, cab corners, above the wheels on the bed to name a few areas DO NOT forget the roof along the rain gutters and A pillars! I am not a fan of under coat. When dry it has pin holes where water and dirt get in and start rusting. Before you know it you peel off the under coat and you have nothing left of the metal. You would be better off not using under coat so it is open to the air so it will dry. Dave ----

I am pretty sure my brother did not pay any where near that much for his Mog He also tells me it goes any where he wants to go with it even the Rubicon Trail. Dave ----

Only a little work done today. Being the bed was off I wanted to test the wiring for the fuel gauge to both tanks. Being the sender plugs also have the ground in it I took a jumper between them and turn the key on and ..... nothing? Check my jumper connections even tried the other tanks still nothing! ????? Flipping switch back-n-forth thinking bad contacts, nothing. Cant find my test lights should have at least 2 so pull out the meter. It is giving me some strange readings of .5xx of a high and bouncing around? Start checking if I have power to the rear light plug where the tail light harness plugs in and get the same readings? Time to check fuses but the oil & temp gauges work, all look good and only missing the 25 amp for the cab lights, replace it any way. So thinking I need to see if I have power where the main harness plugs into the frame rail harness and found the issue! Never plugged in the frame rail harness and I now have fuel gauge for both tanks. By this time wife shows up going out for breakfast so I put her to work real quick. I get under and have her flip the fuel switch to see if I can hear / feel the fuel tank valve switch ...... nope! No noise of can feel anything so pull out the meter and I get power to it when on front tank IIRC so power is good, switch valve is bad and need to pick one up. I did look in up and it is not a cheap as I thought but thankful it is not the 6 port valve. BTW auto zone, rock auto, advance auto all say it takes the 6 port valve? advance auto I can get the 3 port but have to order it. After a little breakfast I tackle the intermit wiper switch & control box install I got off Ebay. Hardest part was finding a screw to fasten the control box to the lower dash frame and sanding said spot for a good ground. Last thing I worked on was the filler plates used on flare side on the back of the cab to finish off the lower corners because the bed is narrower than the style side beds. After sanding them better I found someone drilled 2 extra holes so pulled out the MIG and filled them in and ground them flush. They also have some rust so I brushed on 2 heave coats of Eastwood's rust encapsulator and hung them in the 90* paint booth .... garage and called it a day. Dave ----

Looks good It did not take me that long to figure it out, have not had the air filter assy. that long. Dave ----