FuzzFace2

Rebuilding an old truck and budget cant be used in the same sentence The bumpers do look nice. On your rear bumper when you go to install it watch that you don't go to tight on the bolts as it will pull the dents back in. I think the bolts pull into the brackets so if you use maybe washers between bumper & brackets to close the opening of the brackets might work? Because of the holes I had in the rear bumper I had to weld up and the front being bent and me beating it back into (some what) shape cleaning them with SOS pads would not cut it LOL. That is why I welded the bolts on from the back side and cut openings for the fog / driving lights in the front bumper. It would have been nice to have them wrapped but it was not in the budget so they will get painted silver after the body & bed is painted. Dave ----

I think I know the answer but want to ask anyway. I did a look in the information area above and did not see anything on two tone paint schemes to see what they look like. And here is the one I think I know. I know if two tone it is listed on the cert label in the door jamb what the colors should be But is there a way to tell what scheme the truck came with from the factory? I ask because when wet sanding my 81 Flare Side for painting, I know it was two tone (red/white) from the factory, I came across some white paint up pretty high on the B pillar that might point to a white roof along with white down the sides. I did not see this when doing body work or I would have questioned it back then. As nice as it would be to have a white roof for sun heat issues, I am not going to paint it white. Just wondered if you can tell what scheme. Thanks Dave ----

I don't mind the painting part its the prep before painting I don't care for and the body filler sanding before that I really don't like. What also makes it hard is I know the right way this all HAS TO BE DONE and cant skimp on any of it. I may get out later to move the truck out and do a cleaning. I think with a few fans running and a back pack blower I should get some of the dust out and do that a few times, wet the floor, plastic covering stuff & walls should keep the dust / dirt from getting into my paint jobs. I was thinking the other morning when sanding I should do my painting early in the morning and / or when raining. Moring for cooler & less bugs and rain for less bugs & dust / dirt. We will see when the time come as they say ;) Dave ----

Well my 6am off load was canceled when I got to the site. Home now but need a nap and think it will be way to hot to do any work out side when I get up. :( Dave ----

Between the last 3 days doing the yard work I can put it off for a week or 2 so if it is not to hot I can get something done. We have had some heavy rain here in the evenings when it cools off to cause flooding but after an hour or so it stops. Because of the rain & heat I have only been getting 1 long maybe 2 short loads but when I get out of work it is to hot at 95*+ to hit the garage. On the paint I cant wait either but this heat is killing me on spray time. Heading out now to see about wet sanding. Dave ---- Well not up at 3am but 4am and out in garage by 4:30am only stopping 30 min. for breakfast at 8:30. I fist had to make sure my 200' of water hose would reach my garage then finish cleaning stuff off the roof and got the truck out side. I used air to blow any dirt & dust off it then washed the remaining dust off the frame, looked pretty good when I got the truck back inside. I started off with the roof left door and then the hood and right fender. Almost had to call it quits with half the truck wet sanded because of a cramp in 1 arm and could not move it. A 5 min rest and I was able to move it again, sore but moving, so I pushed on. Truck was done sanding and a wipe down to get the dribble off at 2:30pm, that is a L O N G day. Sad part is there are spots with metal showing so I will need to prime the truck and sand it again. Before I prime it I want to do a cleaning of the garage to get most of the dust out, drape plastic over things I cant move out (most of it lol) and drape plastic down back wall and work bench. Time for bed as 11pm get up time is coming pretty quick. Dave ----

Between the last 3 days doing the yard work I can put it off for a week or 2 so if it is not to hot I can get something done. We have had some heavy rain here in the evenings when it cools off to cause flooding but after an hour or so it stops. Because of the rain & heat I have only been getting 1 long maybe 2 short loads but when I get out of work it is to hot at 95*+ to hit the garage. On the paint I cant wait either but this heat is killing me on spray time. Heading out now to see about wet sanding. Dave ----

What upholstery ....... there was nothing left between the rats and raccoons. Headliner for this car. They even ate other door panels & headliner for another car I had stored in it. Thing is you cant get them for either car. Dave ----

I was going to ask what that gasket was in the lower left in the Ebay. Dave ----

Wish I had the money for a kit as that price does not look that bad when you start pricing them all out. Dave ----

Alex, welcome to FA we are here to help you If you think mice are bad try rats and these, mom & 3 little ones Dave ----

Dave, the heat and humidity is killing me here, and I'm a 1000 miles or so north of you...lol. Seriously...I was supposed to be finished all this stuff in the spring. I get it man. I say you cant rush perfection Dave ---- Sorry nothing worth getting pictures of. The last few time moving the truck I did not see the dash lights on?? So I took the knob and started to install it and it did not feel right so I bought anew one during the week and got that installed. In testing I see the dash lights do not turn off just dim and get bright when turning the knob. They are so bright I can see them in the garage with all the lights on during the day and doors open. I poured 5 gal of gas in the front tank, hooked the battery up to see where it reads, just a needle width above E I am good with that. The rear tank was on E or a hair below it. Moved the truck out and finished bolting down the hitch. I had to cut the bolts shorter to fit inside the tube but long enough to use a ny-lock nut. Looks much better higher to the bumper that is not on but I can tell. Called it a day as I had yard work I had to get done before it got to hot, trash to the dump and then to work to empty out my work truck as I got a newer one. I wanted to wash my trailer but the wash bay was off limits till Tuesday I am told. Oh Friday when cutting the other half of the yard, started the day before, I used the 3 point hitch to drag the water hose reel up to the garage to get air in the tires so I aired them up today. Being I have to get up at 11pm Sunday night for work I will get up at 3am Sunday so I am tired at 5pm for bed, and see how far the water hose will reach to my garage and see about starting the wet sanding for paint. It should be some what cooler to sand that early I hope. Dave ----

On the 3 port fuel valve 1 thing you can do with a helper is get under the truck and hold you r hand on the valve. Then have the user with key on flip the switch between the 2 tanks. When this happens you should feel & maybe hear the valve switch between the tanks. 1 step more would be to remove all hoses and put a long hose on the outlet. With helper blow in the long hose and feel what port the air comes out then switch tanks and see if the air now comes out the other port. If the air does not switch ports valve is no good. I just did this to my 81 F100, when feeling the valve it did not "click". I then pulled it and bench tested and could barely feel the "click" and the air test failed so I replaced the valve. BTW I did not know if this worked or not as the duel tanks came from my parts truck but 1 tanks was empty so thinking it did not, it should now. As for the temp gauge Gary could be right but I would also check all the grounds mainly the body to frame and frame to battery, may even check battery to motor when at it. On the vacuum lines do you have a sticker on the radiator support showing the vacuum lines? Dave ----

Yep me too and this was after some pages not loading all the way like the date & time not listed. Dave ----

I went with green LED's with out the filters on the gauge panel. The head light / wiper light I left stock as I could not find a LED to fit in that space, same for the HVAC control panel factory stock. That work be fine to try if they did not turn to dust in your hand when pulled I had 1 set that's what happened an dif not then the little ears broke off turning it to junk. Dave ----

Ok, understood. I've only ever heard it called Vapor Barrier I guess, but now that I think of it I actually have a bunch of it as we bought a few rolls last year to put under some rock gardens. Thanks guys. That is what the paper was for vapor barrier. So the picture of the parts is that your "silver" painted grille or the charcoal one? Looks like the face is a dark silver and the inner parts black like the black parts of the head light doors? Dave ----

So you think they unbolted the fenders and bolted on the box units and route the fuel neck out? Kind of hard to tell between my pictures and it. Dave ----

The foam can't go very far from the dome light hole, right? Just poke through it with a stiff wire (coat hanger, etc.) until you can get some more dome light wires through. Post pics of the harness above the glove box, maybe shot through the w/s, showing what you find. I sprayed it in there pretty good and used a rubber hose on the end of the straw that came with the can to make sure it would cover the whole inside. I did this for 2 reasons, it insulate from the hot sun beating down on the roof and because someone walked on the roof I had to do body work to it and when sanding it would oil can so it made it stuff for sanding. I will try and remember to get pictures of that area next time I am out in the garage,been to hot the last 2 days. Dave ----

X2 I was lucky mine were in good shape. Dave ----

There are a few around here, but the one that looks like it might offer welding is way down in Atlanta proper, and I'm not willing to fight with traffic to go there. The makerspaces closer to me seem to lean more towards arts & crafts - no welding equipment, but they have plenty of fancy sewing machines, vinyl cutters, and whatnot. So you can make new seat covers for the truck Dave ----

Well heck that sounds easy enough. So follow the 3G wiring write up other than bypassing the gauge. If I was to put more load on the charging system then run it off the battery with its own fuse box. Brings up another question, what if you went with the converted AMP gauge to volt gauge from Rocket man and wired his way could you still wire it as you said, 3G output to the battery and the gauge would read ok? Thanks Gary Dave ----

Thanks Steve, So the 1st & 3rd pictures are of black grille & full black head light doors. The 2nd & 4th pic. is that argent silver grille and doors? I don't think black grille with the inner parts of the doors black would look right on my truck. Just wonder what a chrome grille looks like and what doors are used with it & the argent grille? I got to check over what I have from the 2 trucks but I know all the parts need work because of cracks and missing tabs. Dave ----

If you are talking of the part on the other side from the door hinge it is a half moon thing that would support that side of the box when bolted to the fender or bed side. With out it and only used say small washers they could pull thru the plastic box and it would flop around. You could use flat stock with holes drilled thru it and use small nuts & bolts to hold it up to the fender or bed side. It's not really seen with the door open so anything you can use to spread the support out on that side will work. As I posted in my post above I don't think you can use a style side one as the bolt hole spacing is different between flare side & style side setups Dave ----

Besides the doors being different I believe (don't remember now) the plastic "box" and metal filler necks are a little different in think how long they are and how they are clocked in the box. Part of my issue was the factory flare side setup my truck came with was modified by a PO and did not know what was stock or not? Then I had the front & rear tank set ups from the style side parts truck I could use. Was going to use the rear full setup for a rear tank setup for my flare side. Then my bother sent me part of a flare side fender with door, box and metal neck and part of the rubber hose. This is when I found the doors were different between the 2 models. The spacing of the screws for the doors & box are different between the 2, style side is wider. The style side door is also a little smaller and is curved when looking at it from the end. I have pictures I can post if wanted of them. I think I used the box & neck my brother sent to get the front tank filler back to factory setup as ti would all bolt in place. For the rear tank I used part of the flare side fender & door me brother sent and glassed it to the rear of my fender. With tank in place and the door on the fender I took the rest of the parts I had to make the rear tank filler work. I may have used the left over flare side front box as the door screw spacing would match the fender then used 1 of the style side metal necks and rubber hoses to get it to be 1 part. It has been a bit since I did this but I think that is how I did it and I do have pictures. Dave ----

That is the easy part what has me maybe not wanting to do the 3G swap if in a hurry is the need to bypass the AMP gauge. I think I am pretty good with wiring, wired up my drag car from scratch, but this little part I just cant wrap my head around for some reason Maybe a video step by step is what I need Dave ----

Good information in here for when I go to put my truck together. The over head light I am pretty sure will not work because of the wire going up to it and with the spray foam between the roof panels I cant pull a replacement. So I was planning to add the under dash lights for some light. Now on the right side switch I cant remember what truck had what, custom & XL. I want to said the XL did have 2 switches but that was a few years ago when I pulled it apart. So it is nice to know the right side door switch wiring maybe tucked up in the harness and I don't have the dash pad on yet. Dave ----