FuzzFace2

I thought I did post it I think I did in my draft and it got left out in the final copy The tire size on the truck is 235 / 75R / 15 Truck came with 215 / 75r / 15 from the factory as per the sticker so just a little bigger. So it looked like I did have the right drive gear brown from the list. Don't know how a white got in the transmission? Ok so I was not crazy (don't answer that ) That they did not list the gear ratio I have and why I posted the cert label. so I did need to go to where the ratio was listed to find it. Thanks for the help. Dave ---- Just looked over the driven chart and see it would be B or C gear. Now to hit Ebay to see if I can find any. Thanks again Dave ----

We have "the good, the bad and the ugly"! The good - we now have brakes! with my home made pressure bleeder I got a little air out of the rear wheels on each side, nothing up front. Even before I started the truck I know it felt better, took it for a spin around the yard and felt great. The bad - speedo has a stripped drive gear in the transmission and trying to figure what part numbers are needed made my head hurt so I asked for help. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Speedo-Gear-help-td43805.html The ugly - looked deeper into the rear tank fuel gauge and why it stopped working, it is a new sending unit and only had gas to it for maybe a month. Any way when I short the yellow wire to ground the gauge moves so it looks like the sender or float went south. Because the front tank gauge works and I just filled both tanks I will run the rear out of gas and then drop it down some to get access to the top of the tank. The ugly part as there is no room with the bed in place to get to the top of the tank and I am not removing it. Now that I have brakes and plate I may take it to the food store later, wife went away and left me with nothing to eat. I also need stuff for work lunches. Dave ----

Ok I tried and failed as a Ford parts guy so I need help I looked into why the speedo was not working in the truck and found the drive gear in the transmission is stripped, driven gear looks good. Here is what I found but I cant tell if right or not as nothing lines up with what I have. Truck is a late 80 with a T18 transmission with a 2.75 geared 9” Drive gear looks to be white in the truck, Driven gear is white also looks to be type 2a. Based on the documentations the drive gear being white is listed as 12 / 7 types? 11392 ID D3TZ 17285 – A part number Now when I look up the drive gear for 80 under “Drive Gear Combo” the white is for a 4x4 T/C and it only list the 2.75 rear gear with a 3/speed? So we go to 81 (and 82) “Drive Gear Combo” look up the rear gear ratio and 4 speed and come up with a brown gear C80Z 17285 – B So should my truck have this brown gear C80Z 17285 – B installed and if so can it be used with the white type 2a driven gear? That brings up the next can of worms for the white driven gear on the cable in the truck. 2a type, 17 teeth, C3DA 17217 – B ID #, green or white color, C3DZ 17271 – C part # I cant even find my transmission till I am in the 3.xxgear ratios! How does this all work????? And forget about part numbers or ID numbers I cant find them. Here is a picture of the cert. sticker so you can see the both transmission & rear gear used. So what do I need to get this speedo working again? just get a white drive gear and it will work or get both and know they will work together? And to stir the pot some I have the SROD transmission from the parts truck that I can use some or all the parts if they will work. If they will not where could I get the needed parts? Thanks Dave ----

You and me both I want good brakes! I started this bleeder for my 70 AMC Javelin as I did a disc brake swap from the stock non-vented rotors and duel piston calipers (cant get parts for them, 3 year only option) for later year vented single pistons calipers that I can get parts for. Dave ---- Truck will be fully legal the next time out. I had insurance, email on phone when I went to the show last weekend. Got the cards in the mail and found out I have Hagerty classic car insurance. If the truck gets wiped out I get $11,000 at this time but can up that when I get the truck appraised. They also let you drive the car / truck not just on weekends to shows or to get it worked on, they want you show if off! $500 deductible and runs under $500 for the year. So with insurance cards in hand I hit the DMV on the way home and picked up a plate. I got lucky as there was only 1 other person there and was out is 20 min. and that was BS'ing with the lady that was from CT. Plan is to work on the brakes over the weekend to get the pedal to be firm. Dave ----

IIRC the Ford slider had a thicker frame that fits into the rubber. The after market slider has a thinner frame and can use a rubber gasket for solid glass or after market slider. Now my truck came with a slider that was like yours, gaskets dried & broken, no latch ... junk! My parts truck had a solid glass, it was almost out from the roll over and pulled it for the ride home. I used it and the gasket that was on it and with its first wash last weekend no leaks. You may want to check Amazon for the glass and if you don't care if you have the chrome, this can be a PITA when installing glass, get a new gasket. Remember that gasket has been in the truck for a long time and dries out and gets stiff making it hard to install the glass. That brings up - who will be installing the glass? If not you the shop may want a new gasket to install the glass. BTW I was able to install the rear glass by myself but I have also done rubber gasket glass in stalls, VW bugs, so I knew how to do it but would have been nice to have help. Dave ----

I was also thinking plugged exh. and only way to know is to drop it and test drive. On the MPG are you sure the speedo is on the money for miles? Also have to look at the winter blend fuel now as that will also give bad MPG. Just my .02 Dave ----

Dave - I see three sizes for the shroud. Wouldn't that also mean different sizes for the radiators? What am I missing? 21 35/64 high by 27 37/64 wide 18 11/32 high by 26 31/32 wide 19 11/16 high by 28 27/64 wide http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43225/Shroud_Header.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43225/300_Six_Radiators.jpg Ok I see what you are saying but lets pick a year like say 1981 like I have. 1 truck has AC the other non-AC and they have 2 different core supports and radiators. Oh never mind I forget the non-AC only has that finger shroud at the top, so what do they call that if not listed here under shroud? Dave ----

You and me both I want good brakes! I started this bleeder for my 70 AMC Javelin as I did a disc brake swap from the stock non-vented rotors and duel piston calipers (cant get parts for them, 3 year only option) for later year vented single pistons calipers that I can get parts for. Dave ----

So the turn signals worked before changing out the switch. You should have 4 wires coming out of the switch, 2 to the front L/R and 2 the rear L/R. The reason is the rear also dose the brake lights and if the turn signal is on for a side and the brakes hit the light keeps blinking. On the flashers I think the one on the front is the turn signals and the rear for 4 ways. You can swap them if you want just keep in mind you have 4 lights on 4 way and only 2 on the turn signal and flashers work on load so the 4 way may not blink for the turn signal. Are you sure the lights not working the bulbs are good? If the rear lights up I think the dash should also. Check all grounds there is one at each front corner for the front lights. Now outback I am not 100% sure but if it is like my 81 style side there was a ground at each light, pull the light and you should see a screw behind each light. That should give you things to look at. Dave ----

Part of getting the brakes better is to pressure bleed them. Auto Zone does not lend pressure bleeding kits so was going to make one using a 1/2 gallon pump sprayer I picked up at the hard ware store. After modifying it to work with the hose I hade I felt it would not build up enough psi so I moved to finish building the one I started many years ago but did not use because I did not have a cap to use with it. So I used the old master cap drilled a hole and used a screw in tire valve with the core removed. I then trimmed the gasket to seal around the outside and to pass fluid between the 2 sides. The bleeder assy. is made from 3" PVC, 1/4" closed nipples and ball valves and a psi regulator/gauge. I just had to put the nipples, valves & reg./gauge on the PVC and used clear hose to go between the bleeder assy and cap. All was going good till the master filled up with fluid and then started spraying out the top as it had a vent I over looked. I pulled the cap cleaned it up and used JB Weld over the vent and it needs to setup for 15 hours before you can use it so it sits. Cap with JB Weld on it I will need to pick up some more brake fluid before I get back at it but I should be all set to pressure bleed the system. Dave ----

Part of getting the brakes better is to pressure bleed them. Auto Zone does not lend pressure bleeding kits so was going to make one using a 1/2 gallon pump sprayer I picked up at the hard ware store. After modifying it to work with the hose I hade I felt it would not build up enough psi so I moved to finish building the one I started many years ago but did not use because I did not have a cap to use with it. So I used the old master cap drilled a hole and used a screw in tire valve with the core removed. I then trimmed the gasket to seal around the outside and to pass fluid between the 2 sides. The bleeder assy. is made from 3" PVC, 1/4" closed nipples and ball valves and a psi regulator/gauge. I just had to put the nipples, valves & reg./gauge on the PVC and used clear hose to go between the bleeder assy and cap. All was going good till the master filled up with fluid and then started spraying out the top as it had a vent I over looked. I pulled the cap cleaned it up and used JB Weld over the vent and it needs to setup for 15 hours before you can use it so it sits. Cap with JB Weld on it I will need to pick up some more brake fluid before I get back at it but I should be all set to pressure bleed the system. Dave ----

The master I have is new not reman. so if has to be replaced it will be for one like it. I did follow the post on doing this swap and for me it was just to much work finding different adaptors, lines, etc. I am lazy LOL but I also don't see the benefit for the work needed. Beside I think it would look out of place in my engine bay. I have to find the other valve assy. I have and maybe take it apart to see how it works and to make sure it does work. I just know something is not right with the brake system on this truck and has to be fixed. Dave ----

And that list only shows 1 size radiator for the 300 six and I know between the 2 trucks I have 1 with AC the other w/o has 2 different sizes the AC being the bigger one. Dave ----

It does not but I am also running LED's and that one could be in 180* out? The light on if the plunger was off center did cross my mind and even thought of shorting the wire out to see if it worked but pressed for time I skipped that. Something else to add to the punch list LOL The only light that comes on is the seat belt light when key first turned. The turn & hi beam lights do work. How could I have missed the brake light? I have to return the booster and the battery for cores and will check if they have a PSI bleeder I can rent if not I will look into making one. I started to years ago but think I can come up with something a little easier to build & use. Thanks Dave ----

On the valve is there a way to check this off center thing? I have seen post the plunger needs to be pulled out for bleeding but it does not want to move. I am going to build a cheap pressure bleed system to see if that helps. Dave ----

Yep the "fine tuning" is all it needs now LOL I need to check the box for play, if I can remember I will look at it tomorrow. On the brakes I am going to try and build a cheap pressure bleed system as my son thinks it still has air in the system. Thing is if it did have air I would think the pedal would pump up no? Dave ----

Well after playing with the brakes again and failing to get a good pedal, it stops, will not lock up, feels mushy and low pedal, I figured that is the best it will be for this trip to the show. Wife is not happy and does not want me to take it. Told her it was in much better shape now than when I bought it and I was going to drive it home then. So it got its first wash to get the dust off mostly then dried it, cant have water spots can we? First stop, 1/4 mile to the gas station to top off the tanks. Got to say the gas went in pretty fast, did not try as fast as it could go just medium and no issues. The rear tank gauge is not working and a quick look where it plugs in at the tank is a bear to get to and could not get test light to go thru a wire to see if it had power so I left it for another day. Front tank gauge works so will run the rear empty and use the front so I can drop the rear as I think the float took a dump. Wife is still not happy, what if we break down or flip over etc! I asked about towing AARP, I stand more chance of rolling my work truck than this one. I did pack some tools just in case, did forget a fire ext. will see if the parts store has one next time there. At first I cant shift this thing! You would think I did not know how to drive a stick. Because the T18 shifts like my work truck I keep wanting to float the gears and you cant do it in this truck. Also with out over drive it does sound like it is spinning high about 2000 RPM, no working speedo yet, but after a while never gave it another thought. The truck does wander some but wonder if it is because of the tight kingpins as the wheel will not return to center or if the aliment is off? Also wonder if the box needs to be looked into or it is because I am use to R & P steering? Made it to the show and hour late because of working on the brakes, but no issues going or coming home. Truck was well liked, there was a Lighting there and a 53 Chev p/u nicely done up. looked stock on the out side but had a small block & OD auto, Camaro front clip, AC, Radio. On the way home did not hear the motor spinning high but the RPM was the same and the shifting was easier as I get use to the truck. It was about 70 miles round trip, at about 10 miles in (going & coming) a hear a squeak when moving but goes away when stopped for a bit (3 hours at show) like it cools off? Have to look into the speedo and rear tank gauge not working and at the top of the list the low brake pedal. I forgot to get a picture or 2 when at the show, as they say no picture or it did not happen but it did, you can call home and ask my wife! I will take it out tomorrow to have keys made and turn in a core battery and the booster and check what can be done about the master. I don't want to take it out and not have another to put in on hand as it will let air & water into the system. Dave ----

Up date: Bled the brakes again with motor running and think I got some air out but my helper cant tell if the pedal is better or not. Does not under stand if the pedal will pump up or has come up from where it started It did not I cut the helper loose. I then checked the rod out of the booster to master to see if that is the issue. It was sticking out 1-1/8" and the book calls for .9998"? So going to adjust it out more to see if that will bring the pedal up some. Good thing I checked as the jam nut was loose and you could spin the adjustable tip. Run it out to 1-1/4" but was too long, held the master out some so turned it in a little but still out more than 1-1/8". This 1/16" did nothing for the low pedal Out testing in the drive and I can not get any of the tires to lock up, pedal is low and mushy? Fronts tend to do more marking than rear. I even adjusted the drum brakes up more to see if this would help. I tried to pull and push the pin on the porting valve thinking maybe this was the reason for the low / mushy pedal? When you push the pedal in it feels like the first half of the master is not doing a thing till it gets to the bottom half. Almost like when a line brakes and only half the system is working. When bleeding I am using a clear hose on the bleeder to a plastic jar, took out about 12 oz between yesterday and today. I think this new, not a rebuilt, master is bad and will look into getting it replaced. I say this besides how the pedal feels but when bench bleeding I only had a good discharge from the small side not the large. So I am at a total loss what could be the trouble with this system? Dave ----

Thanks Gary, Thing is I used the parts truck master / booster and never took the 2 apart and it had the low pedal but I know the master was junk as it did sink to the floor with foot on it and if you pumped it up the booster would start hissing and motor start running ruff, vacuum leak so it was bad also. I think between the master and booster the PO lost brakes and why it rolled. This new setup does not sink and no vacuum leak if pumped. I did measure the rods between the 2 units and the new one had a longer rod. Also that rod adjustment looked out pretty far and don't know how much more I can go. In a bit we are going to do another bleed with motor running and if that does not pan out I will make the adjustment, cant hurt at this point. Dave ---- BTW do you remember when you made that adjustment the before & after measurements? My book shows .9998" from mounting base to tip of rod. The old unit was about 1" the new looked to 1-1/8" or so. Dave ----

Thanks Gary, Thing is I used the parts truck master / booster and never took the 2 apart and it had the low pedal but I know the master was junk as it did sink to the floor with foot on it and if you pumped it up the booster would start hissing and motor start running ruff, vacuum leak so it was bad also. I think between the master and booster the PO lost brakes and why it rolled. This new setup does not sink and no vacuum leak if pumped. I did measure the rods between the 2 units and the new one had a longer rod. Also that rod adjustment looked out pretty far and don't know how much more I can go. In a bit we are going to do another bleed with motor running and if that does not pan out I will make the adjustment, cant hurt at this point. Dave ----

After the clutch linkage fix I moved onto the brake issue. Changed out the booster and master bled the brakes looked over everything and the pedal is still low and mushy and will not pump up. Going to try and bleed them with the motor running in the morning and hope that helps. I also have a post started of the brakes to see if someone can come up with something I missed. Dave ----

Clutch pivot motor side. How it looked when I got the truck, years of no bushings did it in. What it looked like after the first fix. When it broke the first time. What it looked like after the 2nd fix along with the 2nd bolt, I cut the head off the 1stbolt and welded the threads to the ball. So when it broke this time the threaded part broke off from the ball, bad welding. So I took the 2nd bolt drilled down the center, cut the head off and drilled the center of the ball and drove a roll pin thru it. Welded up and ground & filed to fit the block. Not pretty but should not break again. All the parts and put together. For got to get a picture ofit in place. Dave ----

Little back ground: 81 F100 300 six, T18 trans. Truck started with manual disc front, drums rear. (note started as it may play a roll?) Everything from the master to all the wheels are new and for the manual brake truck. New: calipers & pads, all 3 rubber hoses, new drums, wheel cly, spring kits Now after checking parts (caliper piston size & wheel cly size) I used the power booster, master and pedal assy. from the parts truck turning it into a power brake truck. I just replace the booster as it was leaking and the master would go to the floor so it was replaced at the same time. Master was benched bled and was happy it showed no air after doing this. I also measured the rod out of the booster both old and new and the new one looked to be a little longer. When moving the truck, both before and after the booster / master change, the pedal is vary low like almost to the floor. It felt better after the booster / master change but still not right. Had the wife help bleed the system, not running pump 3 time and hold. Did not get any air but it also did not squirt out vary hard? I also checked the drum adjustment and they are good. After this the pedal felt worst if that can happen. The pedal dose not pump up like if the drums were out of adjustment or air in the system but the pedal does feel mushy and can bottom out the master. In the morning going to bleed the system again with motor running to see what that gets me. At this point I am at a loss as what could be the problem. Does someone see a problem I don't? Did I over look something? Thanks for any help you can give. Dave ----

Some of that stuff I can't watch because of the BS. I do have to say some of the guys got skills and would like just to watch in person how they make some of the parts. On the pivot if this fails I have been thinking of how to make a new one. Not having a lathe makes it hard to do what I been thinking. But thinking positive it will not break again. Dave ----

You are right on pricey! I looked into this when I lived in CT because I could not back the car out of the garage because my car trailer with car on it was parked in the drive and no other place to put it. Because of the price I never did this. With my new garage I have not even given this a thought as it is larger and I can get the car / truck outside without needing to move anything. Dave ----