FuzzFace2

Took my truck to work today, about 70 mile round trip even took it up on the hi way. Speedo is on the money with my GPS. Steering needs looking into, new box? Has pinging under light load going to look into adjustable vacuum can for the dist. Either need to rebuild the T18, hard shifting, or look for another or a ZF5. Other wise it runs and rids great. Dave ----

Took the truck to work 30+ miles 1 way. Went high way going @ 2am no traffic 65 - 75 MPH speed limit of 70 so most of the time was 65-72. On the way home I took local streets and had time to use the GPS and the speedo is pretty close so that's good. RPM was between 2300 - 2700 What's not good and why the local streets on the way home is the steering. It still darts left & right. It has new poly pivot & radius bushings, all tie rod are tight and the alignment was with in spec, they shop was surprised on that. When I checked for play in the box the wheels were straight and I did not think it was that bad, maybe 1/2" or less of the wheel? But when driving it seams like the play will go to more then that and at different spots of the turning. I cant remember if this is the box from this truck or the parts truck? At this point I am thinking box and if I am going to swap I don't want to install the other used box I have. I almost don't want to swap because it does not leak but I feel it is not safe not knowing what direction it may take off in so I will be looking into the red or blue top boxes. The truck also pings a lot under normal throttle. I am thinking I need to get an adjustable vacuum can for the dist. I should pull the vacuum line and plug and see what that does before picking one up. I have not put a light to it yet but it starts right up so thinking it has to be close to factory. I also don't have the EGR hooked up and hear this could be why the pinging? Then we have the transmission not shifting the way it should. I think it needs a rebuild because if I double clutch it shifts better, cant down shift from 3rd to 2nd with out grinding no matter what I do, syncros are shot! Going to look into what options I have of rebuilding this non-OD T18 or look for a small block ZF5 and the needed parts to convert but that is down the road a bit. Dave ----

Truck is back together but not with out a scare! I got the truck all together and before starting it I went to "run it thru" the gears and put it in 1st not granny, and the shifter had a whole lot of play. I was like WTH! Started it and found it was in reverse? And I never even tried that gear? So I pulled the floor cover and the shift lever, gave a look down inside and see 1 of the shift forks is not inline with the others and I am thinking that the reverse shift fork did not line up right as it is way down inside the works but if the tower is inline and it was pulled apart that way then what? With a hope & prayer I used a screw driver to line everything back up pop the lever back in and see what I had. It felt good as it went thru all the gears, then started it and did the same. That checked out good so out for a little test drive. Just moving from my garage to the house I could see the speedo moved. Out on the road with out the floor cover there is a lot of noise from everything! LOL It does not shift any better. It is like the spacing thru the middle left & right is to tight but you cant feel what gear it should go in. I have driven truck with this type of transmission so know how it should feel. The lever & tower all looked good so don't know where the issue could be? I was also keeping an eye on the speedo & RPM thinking something was off and knowing most of the time traffic is moving faster than the posted limit. I also took down the mileage to see just how far I went. This was the same path I took on its first test drive that failed with no brakes & broken clutch linkage. It came out to 7.5 miles around the block and this time all was good. I ran a quick calc on the RPM & speed and looks to be pretty close. One day I will use my truckers GPS as it has a speedo built into it to see if it is close enough. I also checked the play in the steering and I did not really think it is all that much. It may be I am use to the R&P in my DD Dodge? I know when I first got the truck going from my 86 K5 Blazer I was driving it like a drunk all over the road as I was not use to how tight it was so may be just the other way around? I may take it to work tomorrow as there should not be a lot of traffic on the road, not that there is at 2am. I will not be in a rush as I only have 1 load of LP and it is a day time delivery (after 8am). Dave ----

That is what I would do, 2 pumps to start and if not then 3. If that does not help then back to 1 pump and adjust the pull off. Oh the joys of a carb'ed motor LOL Dave ----

Besides the rear gear what size tire you are running and the RPM "sweet spot". Because I did not have a speedo I was trying to judge speed by the tach but don't know how good that is because some of the numbers I was playing with just did not seam right to me for the speed? Dave ----

Here is what the "ball" looks like on the 300/6. This one was a very low mile original piece on a 1980...I think it just barely had 30,000 miles on it. Ray now has this piece. For reproduction purposes, it should be a pretty good example since the plastic bushing still remains...or at least some of it. Presume this means that the ball itself is still relatively intact. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n44454/IMG_7429.jpg Considering this part, and the whole linkage, is hanging under the truck exposed to all of the road grime, dirt, debris, and water it's no wonder they wear out the way they do. I think the failure mode is that the plastic bushing wears away, then the metal on metal contact rapidly wears out the ball, and it breaks off. Somebody can correct me on this...I'm a hydraulic clutch guy after all... You can still get the nylon bushing for both sides along with the felt washers to keep dirt out and the snap ring that holds the bushings to the part. Little back ground, when I got my truck the bushings were gone and for a long time from what I had seen and the metal part the bushing fits on was warn away. I had to weld up the metal and reshape it so the nylon bushing would fit again. In moving the truck around that metal part the bushing fits on broke front the threaded part, this should be all 1 piece. I took a bolt of the right thread pitch, cut the head off and welded the threaded part to the bushing part making it 1 again. That would have been it but the welder (me) did not do a good job and the threaded part broke off the bushing part. I did the same fix with the bolt but I drilled a hole thru the center and drove a roll pin in to help make it strong in the center and turned up the heat on the welder this time. In short it is the metal part with the threads the nylon bushing fits on is what is needed as they can't be had any more. Dave ----

I have not stayed up on all this new tech and if you blink you are left way out in left field. Yes Wright Tech class of 78 I went thru the auto shop, years before they built the body shop, I already knew how to do body work. If I did not go the auto side I would have done the tool & die as I enjoyed that. The upper classmen of the T&D were just getting in to the CNC programing side. I had an uncle that did T&D work. I was told proto jobs & setups for long job runs. I wished I could have learned some from him before he passed. Dave ----

Even if it did not who is to say you cant? I say if the products are all Ford but just not put together by Ford then why not do what the factory should have done. On my 81 F100 flare side I did just that. I added a rear 19 gallon tank using all factory parts from a style side truck right down to the dash switch that is factory. Then I used the style side metal ribbed floor in place of the wood floor, lack of funds is why. Don't get me wrong I do like a wood floor flare side but the metal floor will last longer and no up keep and it looks factory also. Last is factory bumpers I added a custom touch to. No bolts showing from the outside. The front I added driving / fog into the bumper, the factory could have done this. It is your truck build it as you like! Dave ----

I have 2 dogs but no dog house. They scratch at the door if want out or in, even the cat does that. For sleeping I do have my garage with fridge / freezer, microwave and a propane heater. Just no bath room but bears don't need one so guess I am set if I get kicked out Dave ---- I forgot to say I drained the oil out of the transmission and left the plug out to drain good but the rear was still up on jack stands. I picked up 2 qt of 75w-90 gear oil, I have a little more if it comes up low. Lowered the back on the tires to drain the last bit of oil out. I also looked a little closer at the gears and I see the reverse gear and what I think is the idle gear looks a little warn. It looks like the gears had been making contact for a bit, nothing broken or chipped just worn away. I also made the rod from the booster to the master shorter as I knew it was too long and it may have been keeping the brakes on. I did not smell the brakes or see / feel anything hot but the truck would not roll like I think it should. I do know it is short as it no longer pushes the master away from the booster. When I get the transmission back together I will give the brakes a test. If the emails I have got said the shift fork pad set should be here before the holiday and if so hope to get the truck back together so I can drive it. Dave ----

Yea I would use a normal head light for testing and if that works then it has to be them new fancy LED head lights. Dave ----

Jim, thanks for looking out for me on the motor side clutch pivot and this would be for a 300 six manual setup as the v8's bolt to the bell housing face. Now being I have broke 2 of the ones I repaired, first one I did not know was bad as I just fixed the area the plastic busing went on, the 2nd one was bad welding on my part. Any way I don't know if a printed (plastic) part would be strong enough if I broke the metal ones? If I had a lath I could turn one down from bar stock and then thread the end with a die to fit the motor side. When I was in Tech high school, for the 2 weeks in Tool & Die we made little screw jacks and this pivot uses some of the same lath setup. When it was out I should have gotten measurements and drafted up a blue print, yes did that is high school too, so I had them. BTW that was not "hacked" it was getting "creative" Dave ----

I have 2 dogs but no dog house. They scratch at the door if want out or in, even the cat does that. For sleeping I do have my garage with fridge / freezer, microwave and a propane heater. Just no bath room but bears don't need one so guess I am set if I get kicked out Dave ----

Yep picked it up December 2015. I have not gone thru the bag of papers to see how much I have spent. I can tell you just in the red & white paint is a $1000, and nothing else. Yes kept me off the streets but in trouble with the wife the whole time Thanks Dave ----

Thanks It only took 4 years doing all the work myself. From what it was to this it came out way better for a driver than most would think. If I have it together for Friday I will take it to work and then Saturday trash to the dump. BTW I bought the truck for $800 to take the trash to the dump each week. Dave ----

I hope it shifts better as it shifts worst than my work truck and that 10sp has no synchros. Yep speedo should work. The old drive and new were the same colors, burgundy. The driven was white 17 tooth and I went with burgundy 16 tooth. IIRC I have 2 17 tooth & a 18 tooth to dial it in once on the road. I know the cable turns with out binding so hope good there. Dave ----

Having to catch up on my sleep, 4 hours a night up at 12am or 1am and not home till 5pm or later catches up so got a late start on the speedo gear fix. Got to say the hardest part was trying to remove the flat snap ring to get the gear off the out put shaft. It would have been easy if I could have found my piston ring pliers but that last time I seen / used them was 6+ years ago before the move. With the drive & driven gears swapped out I moved to the shifter tower plate as I could see oil dripping down the side of the trany case. When working on the tail housing it looked like someone had been in this thing and when I removed the top plate as saw the RTV used as a gasket it was changed to YES! I found all but 2 bolts loose and was thinking to just tighten them but know it would come back to bit me and good thing I did remove the plate. There was not a lot of the RTV left to seal and I found something else. Or is that not found? It is missing the plastic pad on the reverse fork. Now when shifting if you try too hard or to fast it has a hard time going into 2nd & 4th gears, as in not hard going into gear but grinding. Like if you went into granny low or reverse while so I wonder if reverse was moving a little and the cause of the grinding? I found a set of 5 plastic pads for $8 and free shipping. I could not see 3 day shipping for $15 on a $8 part but would be nice if I got it before the holiday. Dave ----

that's what I am afraid of. I am not sapose to be peeling this onion any more just enjoying it! I just have to check it out when I remember. Dave ----

Yes forget all them parts store kits as they don't work as you found out. Hit one of the auto glass shops and for a few bucks the will glue it back on. I can't getin done yet as I don't have the sun visers installed and in the past they glued it so I could not use them with out hitting the mirror. Dave ----

I first need to check if the box has a lot of play as I have not done that yet. I know all boxes have a high spot when centered to help hold it there I just need to look at it closer. Thing is I only remember when I drive it and have not done it much before the alignment. Dave ----

Is there an annual mileage limit on that policy? Last one I checked into you if you used it as a daily driver you were pretty much having to go to standard insurance coverage. I would love classic coverage that actually allows me to use the vehicle. This is what my company has in their policy: Used only for exhibitions, club activities, and occasional pleasure/leisure (not primary transportation) AND Stored in a fully enclosed and locked structure No limit on mileage or when you can use it. As they say they want you to use and show it off. Look into Hagerty Dave ----<

Is there an annual mileage limit on that policy? Last one I checked into you if you used it as a daily driver you were pretty much having to go to standard insurance coverage. I would love classic coverage that actually allows me to use the vehicle. This is what my company has in their policy: Used only for exhibitions, club activities, and occasional pleasure/leisure (not primary transportation) AND Stored in a fully enclosed and locked structure I was lucky I got out of work kind of early and stopped by the shop that I got the tires from to see if they can do the alignment on my truck with twin I beams & kingpins. I asked about the caster & camber if off how they could adjust and they said you cant with out bending and he could not do that. But he did say he would need to throw it on the rack to see if they were even out of spec and he was right on that. I asked when he could take it and said 9am tomorrow, told him I would be at work at 3am but could leave it off tonight. On that he said bring it by now and he would see what he could do. Did I say I was lucky? He took it right in and did his thing. He side the caster & camber was within spec and was surprised on a truck that old. He had to adjust toe as I was off a little using a tape and 2 straight edges and centered the wheel. He said he could feel the new kingpins were tight and should loosen as I use the truck. Also the box has a high spot in the center as it should and could be adding to why the wheel will not return all the way to center but it does most of the way. I could tell on the ride back home it no longer darts left / right but could have a little play in the box so need to check on that. I am also use to the R&P of my Durango and wife's Subie and that could be why I think it has play. I plan to take it to work next week a day or two. Dave ----

Brakes are nice if you want to stop I even took the truck out in the dark for food. Next big thing is the darting left / right. Thank you for the help on the speedo gears. I don't think they have had fuel on them for a month. I replaced them because I had the tanks off, did not know if they worked or not. I think they had plastic floats too. Dave ----

Thank you for the help both gears have been ordered. This 3 gear set said by 12/4/19 Dave ----

215/75/15 as per the Certification Labels above. Cory cant you read it lists 215 After I posted I proof read and found the wrong size and changed it before I saw your post but thanks Man it's the little things now that makes you pull your hair out. Good thing a have a lot right now Dave ----

Ok so I ordered the drive gear C80Z 17285-B based on the what your first post said and listed. And if I under stand right I need driven gear C0DD 17271-A, C0DD 17271-B, C0DD 17271-c or C1DD 17271-A to match to the drive gear. Now to have the speedo read right I need a 16 tooth driven gear on the C0DD 17271-? type. Would the gear set below work as it has the 16 / 17 / 18 tooth gears for less that I can get just the C0DD 17271-A / 16 tooth gear for and have the other for fine tuning if need be. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Speedo-Drive-GEARS-Set-of-3-NEW-NOS-OEM-Mustang-speed-transmission/141735123921?epid=1240632031&hash=item2100125bd1:g:ST8AAOSwoi1X82jM Thanks for all the help Dave ----