85lebaront2

But I think that was 3 into 1 pipe and true duals all the way to the rear. They did not sound bad at all but would that sound fit a truck I have some time I think before I have to replace it so I can start looking for a nice sounding setup. Dave ---- My department manager at NNS has a 1987 F150, EFI 300 that had duals on it when he bought it. It sounded pretty good, the E-type jags had two mirror image manifolds that had the outlets toward the center so the downpipes were exactly that, went down, back, curved to the center behind the transmission then back. The mufflers were behind the rear suspension cage.

They do, they sound like a Jaguar E-type. They had a smaller displacement, but long stroke DOHC design.

Considering that the fuel pressure spec on the 460 hot fuel handling package is 9 psi. a Holley should handle that with no problems. I had a Carter high performance vane pump feeding a Holley Racing mechanical pump on my 1966 Shelby. The Holley would draw through the Carter pump under normal driving, the Carter pump was in the rear next to the tank and was used to push extra volume through the 5/16" fuel line. All this was to feed two Holley four barrels and I never had a flooding issue.

I did see that one but thought it was over to far to hit the screw head. Is there an easy way to remove that plug and then install it again? Being a disc I guess knock in 1 side so it cocks over and grab it with something? Thanks Dave ---- Dave, it may be the one on the left unless that's a screw hole. I haven't had one of those in front of me for a number of years. The adjustment screw is on the metering rod hanger and sits against the pump link that slides in the float bowl casting. The way the system works was a design Carter used on a number of carburetors, one two and four barrels. The YFA has a dual side diaphragm, bottom side is connected to manifold vacuum which pulls it down to lower the metering rod, the top side is the accelerator pump. The large diameter spring is the one that sets the vacuum level at which the metering rod will pull down, the small spring is the accelerator pump spring and once the vacuum has pulled the diaphragm down acts as a stop. The small plate on top of the pump link with the adjusting screw is the mixture control, loosen the screw and when the diaphragm is pulled down the metering rod sits lower into the jet, tighten the screw and the rod sits higher in the jet. To remove the plug, a small punch will push it down to the point it is removable. The air cleaner gasket will cover the hole so you can test drive the truck. Once you get the mixture where you want it, turn the plug over so the dent is up and tap it flat to seal it in place.

I will have to take a closer look as I dont remember anything that would be near the rod adjustment screw but then again I was not looking.Would that be it to the left of the air filter cross bar screw? I was also given a 2 or 3 parts carbs and I can check them before I pull the filter to see if mine has it. I do have to pull the filter anyway to move the 2 temp sensors so the hoses reach for the snorkel flap to hopefully work. I have been adjusting the vacuum advance can to stop pinging and today I seen the AFR up in the high 14's to low 15's, it has been low 14's high 13's. Thanks Dave ---- To the right front of the air cleaner cross bar there is a roughly 1/4" aluminum plug, it is a disc plug rather than a cylindrical plug.

I was wondering if I could use a 12 volt cap and what would happen now I know just opens slower. But that brings up something else. The way the factory cap works is it does not do anything till the temp is 70* or more to help open the choke faster. Where is this temp switch? Or dose it get this 70* from the hot air and then opens faster? If I was to put on a 12v cap other than it opening slower because it is only getting 6 to 7 volts would this temp switch also play into it? http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/var/albums/1980-Ford-F100/20180916_170802.jpg?m=1537134887author="Gary Lewis"> Hopefully he set it up the factory way with the cold end connected such that it pulls filtered air from the air cleaner, as shown below for the 2bbl. Dave - If you want more or different insulation you might try this ThermaShield Wrap. I'm using it on Big Blue's dip stick. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n108387/yf-2150-choke_orig.jpg To answer Mat & Gary: The hot air tubing is run just like the factory had it. Fresh clean air is pulled from the factory spot. It is wide open on both ends and no kinks to hinder air flow with in the tubing. It runs down to the manifold and makes think its 4 wraps. When I checked the other day it is a little neater where all the wraps are on the manifold and not other each other like in the picture. You can just make out the insulating sleve on the hot air side going up to the carb in the above picture and here into the carb. So other than the tubing being wrapped around the manifold it is run just like the factory. Bill, I did buy that kit. Dorman makes one and I used the sleve from it. I did not want to have it pull "dirty" air if I used that metal half bucket thing and why I went with the wrapping. So yesterday I leaned the choke out a little, did this after I marked the cap & housing so I know where I started. I also checked if the hot air tube is getting heat and it is it just took some time for the heat to make it to the carb choke area. I think I am going to try and add a few more loops around the manifold to get more heat to see if that helps any. I took the truck to work again today and the choke door seams like it can use a choke pull off as the carb dose not have one. other wise going a little lean did help but it was also about 45* where it would work ok so I have more testing & tuning to do. Also when I went to leave work I checked the snorkel flap to see if it was open to pull heated air from the manifold area, every little bit should help right? The door was closed. The air filter has 2 temp switches and I got the wrong one hooked to the flapper. The hoses are to short or I would have swapped them so I need to swap the switches. If I can get the flapper working I can add a hose to it and poke it down close to the manifold to pickup heat as I think the cold air coming into the carb is also keeping the choke cool and not opening. Right now fresh air is 100% from in front of the grille to the carb. As we know carbs always need tinkering to get them just right. Thanks for the help Dave ---- Get some header wrap and put it over the tube area where it goes around the manifold. One of the issues is that the choke stove as it is called, is it is either part of the manifold (300 and the older Windsor engines) or inserted into the exhaust passage (most V8s and some V6s). The ones integral with the manifold depend on the entire manifold getting hot, actually red hot on the highway and the internal ones are thin stainless steel tubing, sometimes with a piece of stainless steel wool or a spiral to (a) slow the flow down a bit and (b) expose more area to heat the air. On some older Ford V8s it was a stainless steel tube that was larger in one end than the other and was pressed in, Chevrolet used a similar design. main difference was location, Ford Y-blocks had it in the crossover, Chevrolet in the right side exhaust manifold. I had a big Ford V8, an MEL 430 that had a water heated choke on a big Carter AFB. The early versions had a choke stove in the right exhaust manifold.

Dave, on your Carter YFA carb (unless you have gone to something else) under the air cleaner gasket you will see a small aluminum flat plug. If you remove that, under it is the adjustment screw for the metering rod. Counterclockwise (unscrewing it) will lean the cruise mixture, clockwise enriches it. There is no need to open one of these up unless you are changing the jet or metering rod.

You should ride in the passenger side of a military M54A2 5ton Multifuel truck, no muffler, just a large stack from the turbo outlet. Just the bellow of that LDS 465 in-line six, until the driver lifts his foot. The resulting whine as the turbo unspools is almost painful. Another tidbit of information. Virginia had on the auto inspection books a statement that by itself a turbocharger did not qualify as a muffler, nor did a catalytic converter. A combination of the two or a muffler with either was acceptable. My 1963 Jetfire originally had a cross mounted muffler behind the axle with one fairly big inlet and dual tailpipes, under the car was a resonator. When both rusted out, I had my muffler shop stick a single glass pack and tailpipe on it. Car had a nasty sounding whine under power prompting a kid that worked for me at Preston to nickname it the Batmobile. The LeBaron will be getting a high flow catalytic converter and low restriction muffler installed underneath. Factory turbo outlet is 2 1/2" OD.

Same to all of you! May your day be enjoyable.

Bill, it was a joke as I know of AMC as I have been into them for a long time. I have 2 1970 Javelins, 1/4 mile drag car and a car I have been re-building for the street I have had for over 30 years now. I also have a 1975 Gremlin factory v8 auto and a bunch of parts I have picked up over the years. When Chrysler bought AMC back in 1988 they did it for the Jeep side and got rid of anything else AMC including all parts as they were crushed It was a sad day for us AMC fans. It might be warm enough, 45* from 27* to go look at this choke issue and maybe the trailer hitch so I can get the spare tire mounted. Dave ---- We never owned any AMC cars, one of our neighbors in Norfolk VA had a Hudson, and another had a string of Packards. AMCs biggest problem was always money, they had some excellent cars, but had to outsource a lot of components Ford and GM manufacture or own plants as subsidiaries to build components, electrical and fuel systems in addition to transmissions. The independents, AMC, Studebaker-Packard, Kaiser-Frazier had to either buy from Ford or GM or share a supplier. GM owns AC Delco, Packard Wire and Cable (after Packard's demise) Rochester Carburetor. Ford Owns Motorcraft. Both Ford and GM built their own carburetor and electrical parts along with transmissions and axles. Chrysler bought electrical and carburetors from outside sources, Autolite or Delco electrical, Carter, Stromberg and Holley for carburetors, Studebaker used Stromberg and Carter, Packard used Autolite or Delco electrical and Carter or Rochester carbs AMC, used all of those sources except Stromberg carbs. Packard was the only independent to develop their own automatic transmission in house, part of which still lives on in the lock-up torque converters. Studebaker used a Detroit Gear, later Borg-Warner transmission with a lock-up converter also. Stellantis seems committed to bringing at least what's left back to the living. FCA revived a couple of AMC names, there was a Dodge Ram Rebel model, reviving the 1957 Rambler Rebel name, supposedly the Hornet name is returning. On the Pacer, maybe the very name was cursed, it was an Edsel model in 1958. Ford retained two of the model names, Ranger and Corsair, Citation was also apparently cursed, Ranger has done well as a small truck, Corsair supposedly is returning as a Lincoln model

AMC = American Motors Corporation, merged with or acquired by Renault, split from Renaualt and taken over by Chrysler, who in turn went through a number of ownership changes, Cerebus Capital, a merger with Daimler-Benz, dissolved and acquired/merged with Fiat to become Fiat Chrysler Automobiles. FCA was recently merged with PSA (Peugeot and Renault) to become Stellantis. Headquartered in Italy, brands include Alfa-Romeo, Fiat, Ferrari, Maseratti, Renault, Peugeot, Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram and a few others.

Yeah, I think they were formed from Hudson and Nash (trivia item, cast on the Gen 1 AMC V8 heads are the joined letters HN for Hudson Nash)

Dave, you could put a completely electric choke thermostat on it, then it would warm at a fixed rate. If you can find a water heated choke cover, like Pintos used and make it fit, then it would be tied to engine warm up.

Gary, I always thought it was "shoulder to the wheel and nose to the grindstone and your eye on the ball". That hurts to think about it. I have come close to doing that a few times, a lot closer using the wire wheel on bolts. Just don't carve the wrong thing on Thursday .

A very small pin punch works, it is a royal PITA to line up and get started.

Very nice looking! That is going to get some attention.

Yes, but I bought one with the module already installed. The board has 28 pins for the factory chip, soldered and the whole thing potted. The board has two extra spots on each side in-line with the 14 holes, just not drilled. The one I bought has the module mounted and sealed on the board. The pins on the right end are the 4 extra pins that have to be drilled on the board with a #63 drill.

No, not an SBEC-2 they use a different speed control interface, primarily the on - off control. Starting in probably 1992 and definitely by 1993, the on - off switch is a momentary contact design in the steering wheel, before that the speed control used a slide switch on the turn signal stalk off - slide on, slide further for resume and outboard of that a set button that would move the main slide switch to on if it wasn't there already. I don't have one of the later style switches handy for a picture.

Software is called MPTune and it is similar to BE but not as user friendly. First you have to have a template for the tune you wish to use which apparently loads the parameters. One of the issues, Chrysler used 3 different systems between 1984 and 1991, 1984-1987 is a two piece system, a Logic Module (brains) and a power module (brawn). The early ones are rudimentary as a lot of the controls were purely mechanical. By 1987 they were much more refined. I was using 1987 Daytona electronics on the 1985 convertible. In 1988 the system was changed to a SMEC (Single Module Engine Controller) where both parts were in one case, but still separate pieces. The LMs were not sealed as they were in the right kick panel. The program chip was usually the bottom and could be removed, a 28 pin socket installed and the chip could be changed fairly easily, like early GM systems. With the SMEC, the logic board (main part of it) could be socketed, again with a 28 pin socket and the chip changed. On the SBEC, first there are two versions, SBEC 1 and SBEC 2, SBEC 1 is 1990-1991, SBEC 2 is 1992 until the NGC (New Generation Controller) came out. SBECs are larger memory and processor capacity, sequential rather than bank fired injection and use a data bus to communicate with other modules. The SBEC 2 units are factory flash-able like the EEC-V, the older ones require some modifications, primarily installing a Boost Button Flash Module (32 pins) in place of the 28 pin chip. MPTune will handle all three systems.

All crew cabs were built in Oakville Ontario as were the Flexes so all three of my Fords are imports.

I had something pop up in the Turbocharged Mopar group I am in on FB, a flashable SBEC (engine computer) built by the man who did a tremendous amount of work on the Chrysler turbo systems. It came complete with the interface cable for a PC. That solves one of the issues I was having, being able to set up what I need for the engine as far as boost control, spark advance, fuel and the transaxle torque converter lockup clutch. I started prepping the back of the body for the top, the area where the rear nail strip goes has some surface rust and peeling paint, so it's wire brush, rustoleum primer and white paint (area isn't visible) then a new foam "gasket". It isn't a complete seal and there is a drain trough that ultimately goes to the rocker panel drain holes.

Ok, how do you explain Darth having the two piece cable with the sensor near the floor penetration? Built 08/86

Switching from a (numerically) lower 2.75:1 to a higher 3.25:1 ratio will hurt gas mileage by making the engine spin more RPM's per mile driven, won't it? Still on my first cup of coffee this morning so I might be wrong, but I think that's the way that works. Pete, a bit of that depends on several factors, the basic item is what is called the "sweet spot" where the engine is at it's most efficient rpm. Back when Nixon put in the national 55 mph speed limit, he cost me several miles per gallon on two of my cars I owned at the time. My 1966 Shelby with the Cobra 289 and sporting dual Holley 4 barrels with a 3.89 gear went from 20 mpg down to 16-17. Sweet spot on that engine was 3500 rpm, almost all of the mechanical advance (no vacuum) was in and I would be running on the primary barrels of the front carburetor (max 232.5 cfm). This was right at 70 mph. Drop to 55, rpm went down to 2750, about 3/4 advance, so there went my efficiency. The other was my 1963 Oldsmobile Jetfire, it dropped from 24 down to 18, it was a turbocharged 215 ci aluminum V8 and I had removed the enrichment spring from the Rochester RC sidedraft carb. 3.35 gear and the only one of the BOP compacts with 14" wheels as standard equipment. At 70 the manifold gauge would sit just below the center (0 boost or vacuum) maybe 1-2" of vacuum, so the Garret turbo was doing most of the work on filling the cylinders, but mixture was still fairly lean. Drop to 55, vacuum went to about 1/2 scale, and probably less spark advance. Funny thing, the Jetfire distributor had a vacuum advance, so in theory it should have done better with more vacuum.

Welcome to the group, glad to have you! Sounds like a decent buy. The 7.3 IDI is a pretty reliable engine, no computer and a Stanadyne (Roosamaster) injection pump.

You will at a minimum need a shroud for a 460 due to the engine's length and height.