85lebaront2

I have a number of large plastic jars full of various connector shells that I have salvaged and lots of wiring same way. I can probably look over the weekend, but, I will be loading up Friday to do a Pick-n-Pull run on Saturday, so it will be Sunday or Monday before I can get too them.

I have helped a friend install one of their systems in a 1956 Dodge he built. One of the things I was impressed by, other than the rear axle and front suspension, he pretty well stuck with Mopar for the running gear. 360 A block and a 727 Torqueflite. Rear axle was a Ford 9" and front suspension a MustangII kit which really wasn't strong enough for the weight. That was my first experience with Lokar for the throttle cables and shifter. The Vintage Air unit he chose was a heater/AC combination that ended up occupying the glove box location. We left the door functional for access to the unit. Owner wanted it up there so it "didn't intrude" forgetting that on trucks of this vintage, the heater was an option and AC was aftermarket if at all. My 1958 F100 had the heater on the passenger side partially under the dash.

Gary do we have a part number for the Tee check valve 19A563? The ones I have picked up from the parts stores dont seam to work because every time I am on the throttle it goes from AC vents to defrost. Thanks Dave ---- Dave, I have some single line ones that could be used with a tee. Before I would condemn them, I would check for leaks, pull a vacuum on the line going to the inside and see if (a) you can get a vacuum and (b) hold it for at least several minutes.

Well, if no one buys it, I may discuss it with you. That plus the loan of a DS-II system would let me break in the cam in the new engine. I could stick it on Darth's present engine to set it up using a setup like you did on BB to drop the pressure while breaking in the cam.

One quirk of the FE engines, almost all of them have "352" cast on the front of the block so unless there is something like the tag that used to be attached usually on the coil bracket bolt, the only way to tell is bore and stroke. Stroke 3.5" 352 or 360, 3.78" 390,406 or 427, 3.98" 428 if you by chance find it is 3.3" you have a 332. 332 and early 352s are solid lifter engines as are some 406s and most 427s.

Gary, the 4300 is not a Holley, it is a Motorcraft and technically a 4300D if my memory is correct. Doing some looking that is designated a 4350 and is equipt with an altitude compensator from the looks of it. I just looked a manual for it, and it appears to be a 1977-78 with altitude compensator. Applicable trucks probably 1977-79 with a 460.

Studebaker, shaft rockers rule out a Chevy. The bore and stroke also match as the Studebaker 289 was undersquare at a 3.5625 bore and 3.625 stroke. The visible V8, when scaled up matches the Studebaker dimensions.

I had that and later, the slant 6 with a side panel that came off. The slant 6 even had piston rings. Trivia question, whose V8 was the visible V8 copied from and a bonus, what would it's displacement be at full scale?

At one time I had two extra 1986 302 computers. As for rebuilt, there is an eBay store, Auto Computer Exchange that I have had excellent results with. One item to check, on the 1985/86 EFI 302, the entire computer system grounds through a connector to the negative battery cable clamp. The plug that is on a pigtail from that is very prone to corrosion in the plug/socket pair resulting in a high resistance on the ground. This raises havoc with the system.

That does look like an excellent friction tape. I usually get mine (when they have it) from the Ace Hardware here. I see in one of your pictures a factory splice on what looks to be black wires. Those usually are fine, they seem to be spot welded together. I don't know what Ford was using for insulation on their wiring in the mid 1980s, but I have seen a lot of them where the insulation was just crumbling and falling off the wires. The liquid insulation might be an excellent solution, I have never used it, but I have lots of salvaged lengths of various color and size wire in neat little rolls so I can most times match the OEM color and size. Good luck with the repairs.

Welcome!

Having done a lot of rewiring/repairing between Darth and my project car I will tell you how I would do it. If you have a large enough space to lay the harness out (I used a picnic table) that is the easiest way. Once it is laid out, take each branch and put some zip ties around each leg of the branch as close to the branch as possible. After this is done, start removing the petrified tape, it may simply unwrap or may need to be cut. Anywhere there is a splice, you will probably find a glob of sticky goo that was then taped over. Unless you have a high resistance or cross connection, I would simply re-tape them. Where you find bad areas, if the end connector can be easily disassembled and the pins (male or female) aren't too big, a piece of heat shrink can be slid over the bad section, if not, then the section of wire will need to be carefully wrapped with tape. I have found that friction tape is better than the Vinyl tape where the harness may move. The loom split covering can be found on Amazon in various colors. FWIW, here is a picture of the underhood harness for my 1985 Chrysler Lebaron convertible I was building from a 1987 LeBaron sedan:

So if I put $50 on the spreadbore and $50 on the 4180, as well as what they are, then they might sell? Ditto for the 4300? And if they don't sell I'll bring them home. Sounds reasonable to me. The 4180 could be for a 460 or a 351 HO, possibly even a Mustang as they were basically the last 4 barrel carburetors Ford used other than the governor equipt ones on the big trucks.

Correct on both counts. Note that the 4300D bottom is not exactly the same as the Quadrajet and Carter Thermoquad, it is close but the primaries are closer together. The Spreadbore was designed as a bolt on for a GM intake.

4300 is the strange 4 barrel with the tiny extra choke blade between the "wings" of the air valve. The Spread bore has a Q-jet mount and is the one with two accelerator pumps. I have to leave for a while, Drs. appointment in Salisbury, be back in roughly 3 1/2 hours.

At one time Chrysler had the strongest mirror mount adhesive going. I had a mirror knocked off and the adhesive took a small glass "divot" with the mounting pad. When my local glass shop installed the windshield in the LeBaron, I had him re mount Darth's mirror pad as I have a fairly heavy one in him out of a Lincoln Town car (auto day-night and compass).

Get one for a Bronco unless you plan on using the front tank later, that way you won't have three extra fittings for the front tank.

The Spreadbore, I would start at $100 as they are discontinued and that one is for a Chevy. The 4180, maybe the same as that is an emission specific carb. The two regular Holleys, probably $35 for the complete one, $25 for the one missing the bowl (may be in the parts bin). The 4300, if I was closer I would discuss an offer, just because of being unusual. The rest of the carb stuff, if you have a shop that does restoration might be a place to try and offer the stuff to.

Exactly, if it is a concern, a small relief valve in the line from the tank with it's outlet teed into the return from the engine set just below the max pressure of the in-tank pump (example, in-tank pump 6 psi, relief valve at 4-5 psi).

Gary, on the carbs, particularly the Holleys, if you can get the"list" number I can probably tell you the sizes, the spread bore is probably for a Chevy, not an uncommon application back in the day. The Motorcraft 4300 is a rarity, a feedback or altitude compensated version, you might want to clean it up a bit and put it with your 7200 VV as they are from the same era. The plastic intake is for a mod motor, probably a 4.6L as the 5.4L is wider, but hard to tell off the engine. The pile of assorted carburetor parts evokes memories of Preston Carburetion. Engine fans, the one that has 3.8L may be a Mustang, my Taurus did not have the cutout in the lower right as installed. Mr. Gasket carb adapter, Square bore to Quadrajet or Quadrajet to square bore, sold a lot of those at Preston. Thermactor valves, if they are good, priceless for someone who has to have one to pass emission testing. Hope this helps.

The reservoir is used even on single tank vehicles like a Bronco. The idea was to provide a place for the high pressure Bosch pump to get fuel from. The pump is very common on EFI Mercedes-Benz cars where it is placed even with or below the bottom of the tank. I am not sure that the high pressure pump can draw fuel from the bottom of a truck tank, up to the top, then in. The only concern I can conceive would be the in tank pump failing from fighting the pressure head. It is designed for the excess delivered to the reservoir to be returned to the tank so the in tank pump is essentially a circulating pump.

Sounds like that idiot needs a dinger or buzzer to remind he or she that the lights are on when the door is opened.

Main difference from most people's standpoint is fit. Oval can be turned to fit in places a round one won't.

You are running into somewhat the opposite I ran into years ago on my 1971 Mercury Colony Park. It called for P235/75R15 tires and I could not find them anywhere let alone at a reasonable price. My tire store manager (friend) suggested just going the the LT235/75R15 tires. In his words "That beast weighs more than some trucks, so why not use the LT tires?" Car was 5500 lbs empty weight.

It wouldn't be as stiff, but would carry the load. I have driven air suspension cars (Mercedes-Benz 109 chassis) and they ride very nicely, but not a harsh ride. I have an air suspension car I hope to get to after the konvertible, a 1995 Lincoln Continental.