85lebaront2

Gary, mine ended up being 7" further back that the C6 if that helps.

Whole lot bigger and heavier than a 335 isn't it?

Gary, those tie downs look like they may have been for a pickup camper.

Unfortunately, you are going to run into what I looked at. Your truck, like mine has twin I-beams with king pins and rides on big coil springs and due to the layout, if you put the twin traction beams you would need to attach the leaf springs and hangers. To use a live axle, same if you use a leaf spring style like the later (up through 1997) trucks used. The best design would be like the Dodges use, coil springs, track bar and radius arms, problem being, Dodge and GM run the 4WD front shaft down the right rather than left side and since you would no longer be on a pivoted axle half, the spring rate would need to be lower. You might do some research into what is offered aftermarket for suspension options, me, if I did it would be to try to keep the coil springs.

Right front showing door Left side 3/4 view Interior Underhood A/C compressor and air pumps

I will do this in a number of posts and will put all the pictures in an album rather than try to put them in the posts. The truck was originally owned by a local horse breeder in Suffolk VA, Delmar stables and the sides of the bed said Delmar on them, the interior had a pair of Pyramid bucket seats that leaned slightly toward the outside and were manual, but could be reclined, back seat was original. Truck had the factory AM-FM stereo with speakers in the front doors, manual windows and locks. One of the first things I did was to get a right front door as the lower mirror mounting holes were rusted out and the mirror was just sort of hanging there. Once that was done and after discovering my water leak was from the timing cover gasket, it was time to go into the front of the engine. The "mechanic" at the Ford dealership had brazed the swivel joint on the heater return pipe necessitating removal of the pump to get it out, this now involved removal of the huge cast iron alternator and Thermactor pumps bracket on the right side of the engine. Loads of various size hoses and small vacuum lines! Since everything was open, and the truck had about 85000 miles, I decided to replace the timing chain. After some digging at a local independent jobber I was able to order a pre-1972 timing chain set with a steel cam gear and install it. Went ahead and rebuilt the carb, new wires, plugs, cap and rotor so everything was fresh before we went to the Pennsylvania Good Sam, state Samboree up in Centre Hall PA. Getting there requires either a rather long route to come in from State College PA, or driving up US 322 W from Harrisburg up a stretch called seven mountains grade towing a 10,000 lb trailer. Sister-in-law routed us that way as they took their rig up that route. I had wisely tossed a spare DS-II module behind the back seat, and it was a good thing too! 3/4 of the way up the no-name one expired so I pulled over while I still had momentum and stopped, popped the hood, quickly swapped modules, didn't bolt it to the fender, just shut the hood, fired it up and went. While we were checking in, a fellow RVer came over and asked what kind of speed and what gear climbing the grade, he had an almost identical setup, except a Chevrolet truck with a 454. When I told him 37 mph in 2nd on the C6 he looked shocked, he was at 22 mph in first with his Turbohydramatic 400. Turned out he had 3.73 gears to my 3.55, hmm, item #1, 460s have gobs of torque. Coming back down, I used 2nd, and braking as needed to keep the speed to the recommended level. I used the truck that way from 1995 until 2006 when I decided some "improvements" were in order biggest was to convert to EFI because unless I drove Darth fairly regularly, even with the in-tank pumps it would take a bit to prime the carb and start. The Holley was also starting to show it's age as far as warped accelerator pump, secondary metering body and just getting balky. Due to the elaborate evaporative system, putting a different carb would be a royal PITA. I had a friend in Virginia Beach with a 1990 F250, 460 and E4OD along with power windows and locks that he wanted to sell, we agreed on $845 and he would bring it over to me. So "Big Ugly" arrived to add to the truck collection (neighbor had a 4WD S-10 he was fixing). In the mean time, some of the usual items cropped up, original starter finally expired but a lot of those issues I lay on Hurricane Floyd in September of 1999 flooding most of Hampton and Newport News VA. Newmarket Creek had been used for years as a drainage system in those cities and it meanders across from Hampton into Newport News crossing under most of the main North-South roads which as a side note have bridges named for the "Mercury Seven" where they cross. My son was using our 1980 Diesel Bonneville, I had driven the 1987 Horizon to work and my wife had driven the 1990 Lincoln Town Car to work. Son had gone home from AutoZone to get lunch and in returning got caught in the wake of a Pentran bus, luckily he was idling through the water so when the wave hit the engine just stopped dead, fortunately with no damage! I got a frantic call, left work, drove home in the Horizon as both the shipyard and the house are below Newmarket Creek, and got Darth out of the back yard, rain was coming down so fast I had 2" of water standing in my yard! Drove up to where my son was with an old tire casing thrown in the bed and some rope so we could push the Bonneville. When I reached Newmarket area there was a policeman stopping people from crossing the flooded area, I could see daylight under the Bonneville and had already called a wrecker company I knew and found he wouldn't be able to help me till the next day. I told the officer, as I am looking at the top of his head that it was my car and I had come to push it out of the way and he allowed me to do that and suggested I push it up and onto 82nd street and he would make sure it wasn't removed. I pushed the Bonneville, my son climbed from the hood of Darth onto the Bonneville trunk, slid up onto the roof and popped the driver's door open and slid in so he could steer the car. After that I picked up my wife at work and told her just leave the Lincoln there. End result, while driving across to the wrecker company, water was deep enough the tail pipe submerged and sounded like a big motor boat. Probably a year later, my son was driving to Norfolk for a Halloween event he and his friends did (they are the ones who named the truck Darth Vader) and the left rear wheel bearing locked up, then spun on the axle tube leaving him stuck on I-64. This ultimately resulted in having to replace the axle housing.

Gary has asked me to do a white paper on what I have done with my 1986 F350, nicknamed Darth Vader by my son and a group of his friends. I purchased the truck in April 1994 after my late wife and I bought a 30 ft. 5th wheel trailer. I had originally planned on pulling it with my 1977 F150 that I had re-engined from a 300 and C4 to a .030 over camper special 390 and C6 while keeping the 3.25 gear in it. While it pulled the trailer fine, it had a slight issue with stopping. While she was taking a week off and staying at a campground near Gordonsville VA, there was a gentleman there with a truck he wanted to sell. Both front fenders and one door were pretty rough and one of the rear dual fenders was broken up. He had been getting it repaired at the local Ford dealer, who had a 3 day a week part time "mechanic" working there. First thing he said was they did some work on the carburetor and it will hesitate and sometimes backfire. Accelerator pump wasn't even put together right! Agreed to buy it, paid $4500 for an 8 year old F350 crew cab dual rear wheel truck with a 5th wheel hitch and brake controller. I took my son with me in our 1987 Horizon that I had set up to tow behind the F150 with a pickup camper so we could get it home and we took our tent. Bought Darth, went back to the campsite and fixed the accelerator pump. Hooked up the Horizon and headed to Suffolk to a friend's place so he could fix the fiberglass fender. Found the oil filter adapter leaked, nothing underneath was going to rust! Fixed the steering (both tie rods outer ends were shot) while Roy did the fender. Tightened the oil filter adapter and did an oil change. 5th wheel hitch was not as good as the one I had, so I replaced it with the one from the 77. Also bought a new, Kelsey-Hayes hydraulic operated brake controller to replace the damn electronic one. I was going to give it a chance till I hit a rough area in York County on US17 and the brakes pulsed so bad I thought they were going to break something! If anyone wants to comment on this you can go here: http://bullnose-enthusiasts.12971.n8.nabble.com/Darth-Vader-td246.html#a271

Damn, you mean I was right about something!

Exactly, if you have low pulsating vacuum at idle, then the SD MAP sensor goes batshit trying to figure out what is happening. You only need a single O2 sensor for the SD system, Ford put it at the H just ahead of the catalytic converter.

Gary, hook up a vacuum gauge and see (a) what kind of idle vacuum you get and (b) how steady it is.

Actually, if you go with an MT computer for MAF it wouldn't be a problem. Ford actually kept many of the MT trucks SD/BF up through 1996/7 on the heavier vehicles. As I said, I have an MT EEC-IV, and according to Jim, you have the 1995 one.

Gary, keep in mind the E4OD converter is a lockup one, but yes, a relatively low stall speed is probably good considering the low end torque of the 408.

Gary, because virtually all 460 powered trucks were >8500 lbs GVW they were exempt from OBD-II and air bags. One member on one of the FB groups called the MAF 460 computer a unicorn till I posted a picture of the label on my FEZ3 EEC. Ford actually built some EEC-V SD/BF computers for MT applications and anything >14000 GVW was exempt from even the California OBD-II requirement. Once you have the 1996 EVTM in hand you will see. I would look for a 1996/7 351W truck w/E4OD. It will have the front harness you need to use an EEC-V computer and will be MAF, you will still need a 90mm MAF for a 460. You are at least closer to the left coast that I am, most of the actual CA spec stuff I have has come from Southern CA sources.

Try this again, if it vanishes this time screw Nabble! I am using an EEC-V on Darth as that was the only MAF/SEFI 460 system built. I ran him on an SD/BF system at first, and did some playing with the injector wires. The harness I have in there started as a Powerstroke harness from a 1996 truck. I rewired it to move the injector wires to the EEC instead of the IDM that the Powerstroke uses to control the solenoid valves on the injectors, same colors were used. The reason I wanted to get away from the SD/BF system, the EFI 460s have a penchant for problems with #5 cylinder (ring failure, burned pistons etc.) I resequenced my injectors to match the intake manifold 180° design. The factory truck BF setup is 1458 and 2367 as the groups, the firing order being 15426378 outs 1 and 5 right after the other and the fuel comes in the back of the right side, FPR is front left, right over #5 injector and #5 probably runs lean. I resequenced mine to 1467 and 2358 like the manifold ports (just like a carburetor, it feeds first one side then the other). It idled smoother for one thing.

The vent is in the front pump, just above the seal so when it gets overheated it shows up there.

The later pan does not have the rib for the cork/rubber gasket, started in 1994 or 1995. To my knowledge none of the factory pans have drain plugs. The gasket is a standard Ford part and should be easily available aftermarket. It is molded rubber over metal with rings at the bolt holes so it can be torqued properly. RWAL = Rear Wheel Anti Lock. Just found that F450 did not have it, plug goes into a dummy connector to keep it from dangling.

Big problem with them is heat, the converter is a higher stall speed than a C6, so when not in lockup will generate a ton of heat, you can actually boil the fluid in one stall testing it. The secret is to redo the computer program to lock up earlier and stay in lockup. Mine is set to take 80% of full throttle to unlock, it will downshift almost immediately like that. The gears in it are beefed up wide ratio C6 innards and the length of the case is due to the fact that the OD unit is in front of the main gearset. I am using the one from the 1990 parts truck I bought with nothing done except fluid and filter changes.

So, did he say all of the things are included? Gary, it looks like he is addressing everything, since mentions replacing all the case bushings. Everything else he pretty well covers in his list here: The shift kit comes with the new updated snap rings, the converter is the updated clutch disc, The forward clutches are the later ones, The center support, stub shaft , and the 1995 later pump With the roller bearing is $192.00. I install new sun gear and case bushings in each build. The total price for the parts and labor and supplies is $2200.00.

If you are going MAF, they have one large hose, the big enough MAF will probably be 90mm and would only need a single hose to the throttle body. The dual hose from my throttle body goes to a y and from there to a single large hose to the MAF. I will get you a picture tomorrow.

That's what I did on Mary's cousin's 1989 G30, it had a ton of crap in the cowl.

EFI 5.0L vacuum valve set (4) 2 for Thermactor air control and 2 for EGR, vacuum and vent. Asking $50 + shipping. I got them for my son's 1986 F150 and found we didn't need them.

Jim, you have to remember, I have the poly groove (serpentine style) belts and the Taurus unit I got the pulley from was the same, just used a larger pulley, also mine is the uprated one RJM sold, 160 amps.

I am not seeing a bold chiclet on the signature page.

Ok, since you don't have ads I turned adblock plus off for your site, sure enough all the sigs are back. Now I need to see if I can edit mine to put the names in bold.