85lebaront2

Steven, there are only two different connectors a 60 pin one for EEC-IV, and 104 pin for EEC-V.

Gary, HVAC, the firewall openings are exactly the same, the inner distribution system is much better, take a look at the mode and blend doors also the controls, those lack the provision for the tank selector as it is on the dash. Since you are going to the later belt system and compressor, you are going to need the underhood portion and lines. Column, as long as the inner portion of the actuator isn't broken you should be able to use it and have the tilt wheel which will help driving comfort on the "long way to the North Rim". The 1985 switch and mounting bracket will fit, or you could use it in Dad's so you have the E4OD shift linkage and tilt wheel.

I will bet once you position it on Big Blue, you will probably find it fits better up top. Darth has the power steering return "cooler" on the cross member and the outlet goes right up into the bottom of the reservoir.

Gary, I had several GM Diesel cars with hydro-boost systems. Plumbing was pump to hydro-boost, hydro-boost to gear. One return from hydro-boost to reservoir and one from gear. I would suspect that the extra nipple is the hydro-boost return and the gear uses the normal return port. Looks like all you need to use it is the hydro-boost to gear hose.

I'll test the valves when I get a chance and let you know. Then figure out a safe way to ship them without damaging the lines.

In the same junkyard I got the harnesses from, Butch's cars and parts in Exmore VA. Yes, everything you see comes with it, by vacuum bag, do you mean the plastic "can" that sat along side it? No I do not have that, didn't need it and I think it was gone already.

Steven, let me look at the hoses I bought for my LeBaron turbo fuel system, it runs 55 psi at no vacuum and rises to 70 at 15 psi boost. I will get the information and the clamps I am using along with anything else. Hose is to SAE spec 30R9 and I ordered it from Amazon along with the full circle clamps (not worm clamps). These are the clamps I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CU0HM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And this is the hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2D4BQP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The hose is showing as out of stock, but it may be back in later. A good parts store should carry it, it is expensive but well worth it. You also need to make sure this government mandated crap we have for gas won't degrade it. Fuel system, on the truck there is a reservoir on the frame behind the high pressure pump, in the 1985.5/1986 trucks it has a paper element fuel filter inside it, Fram makes a replacement so you might want to change that while you are doing all the other work. On the vacuum lines, if someone has an unmolested set for the engine and can carefully package them so they arrive undamaged might be the best bet. If you look in the "for sale" section, I have a set of the vacuum valves for the 1985.5-1986 5.0L EFI I had gotten for my son's 1986 F150 and we never needed them, one of the lines had cracked and I carefully put it together with a short piece of the correct color heat shrink tubing. It however stays stationary and doesn't move. AutoZone used to carry rolls of black hard plastic vacuum tubing. I have never messed with the end connections between my 460 fuel rails, never had a problem with them.

If you need any of the connectors, I have a large number of them I have salvaged, cleaned and sorted so that is not a problem. One item I will warn you about on those engines, actually all 5.0L EFI trucks. In order to replace the engine (injector) harness the plenum (top half) of the intake needs to be removed. In order to do this, first there is a Torx head bolt in the center of the right (passenger) side that is only easily removed with a special long Torx socket, second, the EGR pipe on the 5.0L comes out of the crossover passage under the plenum and is very fragile. If there is any question on the condition of the throttle position sensor and the small coolant hoses, this is the time to replace them. If you need the TPS, I hope you can find a Motorcraft one, aftermarket ones generally will not work correctly on this early system due to the need to adjust the throttle idle position by the TPS voltage rather than rpm.

Yes it does, the only reason I couldn't do that, the repair lines only come up to 24" so I would have had to go 24" + 11" (not available so 12") on each line between the Y and engine feed. I now have the 1995 supply and return (thanks Jim) so I can get them on the correct way.

You should see the one for the huck or for the 1996 without the Thermactor it is real simple.

Which of your trucks is it? I am assuming the automatic one, California style, my 1986 was worse than that.

Just exactly that, if you can place the pieces on dad's truck you may be able to simply buy some repair splices at a parts store rather then needing to run the whole thing. On Big Blue, if you can extend the existing lines (they will unbend with hot water) to where the reservoir will mount then you will only need the lines to the HP pump and filter and to and from the engine. I had a set of lines like those, that is what I added the 35" to from the Ys forward to where the filter connected and the return came down.

Gary, it has the Ford connectors if I remember correctly. I know the stuff can be a royal PITA to get together as the line doesn't want to stretch enough to get over the fittings. If nothing else you can salvage the old fittings by carefully cutting the line off them. You also, on Big Blue only need to modify the area that connects to the present 6 port valve. Did you get all the fuel lines with the huck?

I will look tomorrow and get the number off it. BTW, the front pump from the huck tells me it originally had two tanks, the valve was a recall to cure cross fueling. If you aren't going to use any of it, it would make a nice spare for Darth. Go here: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-27520-800-300.aspx?origin=keyword

You are correct, the three holes are for the clock option, date/time/elapsed time if I remember on left, clock in center and H M set buttons on right (I had to go back and look at pictures to be sure).

If you want to do the nylon lines that Ford used, I would get one of the Dorman kits, that's what I did on Darth, something about needing 35 more inches of line on both supply and return. BTW, in that picture, you have one bricknose front pump and one bullnose rear pump, interesting combination. This also begs the question, what are you going to do on dad's truck for fuel supply, if you want to keep the early gauges you will need to do the same thing there.

Further, when I get back over to Newport News, I believe I still have the extra stuff from Matt's 86 and if I do I will bring it back over here and get you some pictures of it and if neither is perfect I will be willing, considering what you want to do to restore one for you, I believe if I remember correctly there are either two or three harnesses that plug into each other.

Turns out it was Chrome, decided there was "unusual code that might be exposing personal data". I copied it this time and when it screwed things up again I just switched to edge and pasted it in.

One of the issues I found in trying to update things was even though the basic cab is the same from 1980-1997 there were some detail (like door locks) and some major (like the dash design) changes over the years. For the most part the major changes tend to be with a body style change, from bullnose to coffin nose and from coffin nose to aero nose. Electrical changes sometimes followed the body changes and other times were in mid run for a given style. The biggest change was from the 1980-1986 front harness design to the 1987-1991 and then 1992-1997. 1980-1986 the front harness is a continuous run from one headlight to the other with the dash as part of it, rear chassis harness plugs in near the frame/inner fender/firewall junction and the connectors are not weatherproof. 1987-1991 the front and dash harnesses are separate and there is a large round connector with 53 0.110 pins in it. Rear harness, engine harness and on 1988-1991 models with the E4OD the transmission harness plugs in to it. At least on the early ones, the rear harness did not have weatherproof connectors, but everything else did. Starting in 1992, probably with the need for air bags the front harness connector was changed to a 76 pin, 28 0.110 pins and 48 0.060 pins and the rear harness now went to the firewall through a 24 0.110 pin plug. Power distribution was also changed, the 1980-1986 trucks, everything went through the alternator harness through fusible links and the only fuse box was inside on the driver's side attached to the firewall. In 1987-1991 the fusible links were still there, but the power distribution no longer went through the alternator harness, it was a separate unit with only the charge indicator light tying it the main harness with a plug, inside the fuse box was moved to the bottom of the dash with a removable panel covering it. 1992-1997 the whole system changed, a power distribution center (PDC) was mounted on the left inner fender fed by a pair of gray fusible links into a probably #4 wire across the top of the radiator support. The PDC housed a bank of fuses, provision for 14 maxi fuses, 7 ATC fuses, one diode and 5 Bosch relays. There is also an auxiliary relay box of either 2 or 4 additional Bosch relays, inside the fuse box is still in the dash, but now has a snap in cover and has provision for 18 ATC fuses or circuit breakers and two flashers. After starting to use the 1990 front harness system (I actually had it installed) and was running the engine with it when I came across the later system. One of the reasons I decided to use it was the EEC location. On the EFI 5.0L trucks mid 1985-1986 the EEC and it's power and fuel pump relays were mounted just the right of the driver's knee up inside the dash area and the harness ran through an oval rubber penetration near the accelerator pedal pivot. 1987-1991 the EEC sits about halfway into the left side air box and would require a major bit of bodywork to install on an earlier cab. From 1992-1997 the EEC is close to the same location but a little more to the right and the parking brake pedal is no longer part on the dash bottom and part through the firewall. It is on a large aluminum casting bolted to the left side of the cab A pillar and a forward brace. This also supports the new stub column and the left end of the dash. Since I also liked the look of the newer dash and HVAC controls, I decided to use that setup. Rather than try to make, first a set of three holes, all roughly rectangular and second eliminate the indent for the parking brake pedal bracket I made a new section for the firewall using a back from an old Sears washing machine. I made a template after some measurements in junkyards and did some trial fitting After I was sure of the dimensions, I made the plate large enough to go from next the the brake booster to overlap the edge of the left air box and high enough to go from the bottom of the flat face of the firewall to overlap the cowl area just below where it bends back at the air inlet section. I cut the old piece out flush with the air box edge an the inside small ledge where the angled part of the floor joins the firewall. Coated the edges with RTV sealer and attached it with self drilling tech screws.

I had done another lengthy post, hit submit and got the weird little face Google gives you and "poof" the whole thing just vanished???

These are pictures of the top of dash mounts I made to allow a 1987 up dash to attach at the top in a 1986 cab.

Haha! My BIL worked for GM for 35 years or more, my sis also worked at GM, good thing I have the Suburban or they might disown me! My answer to them, "I just like the Ford trucks better".

The problem as I pointed out is the difference in the connections for MAP system and MAF systems. I do not think you will be able to find a new MAP sensor harness anywhere. The later MAP sensor harnesses from the factory are much netter than the 1985.5-1986 ones. I pulled 3 trying to get my son a good one. We finally took the best parts of the 4 (3 I pulled and the original) and made one near perfect harness. To my knowledge the truck, now in Chesapeake VA, still runs fine. If you are having problems, check where the harness ground connects at the battery negative post, there is a pigtail with a double pin connector, it is maybe 8" long and corrodes to where you either lose the ground or it is so high resistance it doesn't work right. Other common problem, the throttle position sensor, non-Motorcraft ones do not work right,

First item, 1985.5 and 1986 5.0L EFI systems are all by themselves, Matt went through that with his 1986. Everything changed in 1987 when EFI became standard on all but the 351 HO and 460 engines. MAF/SEFI started on the 5.0L in 1994 and was still using the EEC-IV system, 1996 was the year for the EEC-V introduction. That being said, there are a number of sources for an MAF/SEFI for the 5.0L engines, 1985 does not use an electronic transmission so any system for a Mustang update will work, but, you will have some interesting issues. (a) air filter location is unique to those years (b) EEC location is also unique to those years along with the power and fuel pump relays © harness routing is unique also, it passes through the firewall in an oval grommet near the throttle cable(d) EGR control system is unique to those years, but some cars used the same system (e) O2 sensor is a 1 wire in the back of the right exhaust manifold, I believe most of the MAF conversions use 2, one in each exhaust pipe, later trucks have it right where the two pipes come together and it is 3 or 4 wires due to the heater. MAF and MAP sensors are completely different circuits, MAP sensor uses the regulated 5 volt sensor and ground circuits and provides a peculiar to Ford high frequency signal that reflects the intake vacuum level (actually measures the Manifold Absolute Pressure in relation to normal air pressure), MAF sensors use the 12V EFI system power and the system ground and then a 2 wire sensor signal connected to the EEC. Good items, all the sensors are compatible with later computers and the Thermactor solenoids are the same. If you elect to stay with a MAP sensor system, you will need a later sensor. MAF truck air filter units can be found at junkyards along with a mounting bracket. there is a company, fiveology I believe sells a nice kit and does support trucks. Good luck with it!